manley

So sorry for your loss.

Im sure for most people this is hard to believe but it is possible for your faulty rim blow switch to be repaired. I purchased an new in box rim blow switch at a swap meet today and found out when I got home after checking with my meter that it was faulty. With nothing to lose I decided to disassemble it. I don't know if others have tried this before; or have only tried and failed. It is really a stupid simple setup but it is very dependent on the two copper strips being very straight with NO bends. What makes it so fragile is the two copper strips are so narrow that they bend or break easily making the two strips touch at these bends or dents in the copper and the horn stays or doesn't work at all. Getting the strips out is easy, just straighten the end that is bent over that doesn't have the wire lead on it and pull from the other end and it will just come out. After I had them out I found there were quite a few spots that had bends, kinks, and dents in the strips. I found the easiest way to straighten it was to put the strip up against my stainless work bench and place my finger tight up against it and just pull it through. This made it straighten out but also caused it to coil up. To fix this I did the same thing again but did the other side of the strip so it would straighten out. After you get the two strips straight, coat each one with dielectric grease, vaseline, or some other non conductive lube. If you don't lube the strips, you will NEVER get them all the way back in. The KEY is that on each side of the rubber strip, there are two wedges that keep the copper strips from touching. If it gets hard to push the copper in, you will push it past the wedge and the two copper strips will touch causing it to make the horn STAY ON. Make sure you note which copper strip was on each side BEFORE you take it apart because it MATTERS. The strip with the long hump in the middle has to have the hump facing the other copper strip so it can make contact with it when you push down. When you are pushing the strips back in, make sure when it comes through the other end that it is on the same side of the little wedges as the side you pushed from. If its not you need to pull it back out and do it again. Once you have one strip back in, try not to bend or move the switch around a lot with only the one strip in it as it can cause it to move past the wedges. I found that the easiest way to feed them in was to hold the rubber strip and let it hang while I fed the strips in from the other side. After I got the first one in, I flipped the switch and fed the other one in from the other side like it was before. I put the plastic separators back in the ends then tested it and voila it works perfectly. If your copper strips are broken inside your switch it can still be fixed but you have to solder them back together and you have to be good at it as it needs to be very flat. This is a very delicate process and repair and can be very time consuming. If done correctly you can save yourself a lot of money from throwing away a new switch that doesn't work. From what I have seen and heard, most vender that sells these won't take them back if they don't work because they are easily damaged if you don't handle them properly. Hopefully this helps a few others. If you have any questions of need some help getting your switch fixed feel free to ask.
 
Key tips. 
A. NOTE the location of the strips and the position of the factory indentions on the strips BEFORE you pull them out so you can put it back together as it came apart.
B. Make sure the copper strips are very straight with no dents, dings, or kinks before reassemble 
C. LUBE the copper strips before putting them back in the casing. 
D. DO NOT FORCE THE STRIPS into the housing as it will go past the wedges and make it not work or you will damage it as it bends easily. If you have to force it, pull it back out and make sure it is straight and add some more lube. 

The speaker in my dash had been cracked for some year, which really annoyed me. My dash is dark brown and since I live in Denmark, buying and dyeing a new one would cost me a lot.
 
So i made a cheap solution I wanted to share:
 
I cut out all the area of the dash with the small holes for the dash speaker, which was completely cracked.
I then bought some speaker mesh for a 6x9 JVC car speaker. I cut and folded it to fit the hole. I realized that there was about 9mm room from the edge of the dash to the speaker mount underneath, so I folded it twice to make it a usable space.
Then I got some thin speaker fabric to place underneath the mesh, so the speaker underneath isn't visible.
Finally I got some 2mm PVC sheet, that I cut a frame out of, to cover the edges.
And now I have a new place to lay my sunglasses.
A cheap solution that cost me about $25, just wanted to share. ✌ï¸

Seems to me that would be good idea to have here. We already have a nice list VIN numbers.

Looks like success!  Thanks!