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manley

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Posts posted by manley

  1. Posted · Report reply

    There is a shop west of West Carrolton that deals in mustangs. Can't remember the name and don't know how good they are.

     

    Edit: Googled and found it. Its Dayton Performance at 4681 Pinnacle Road. Don't know how good they are still. Went by there once when I was out of work to see about a job. Didn't care for the attitude of the guy I talked to.

     

     

    Don't they deal in Fox bodies? I bought a motor from them years ago.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    As far as the Prop Valve, I had been running just a K-H adjustable one since the 80's, but had since read that you should really run this in "series" with the factory one rather than replace it.

     

    Original Prop Valve was long gone but I had a NOS Ford "replacement kit" laying around (not same style as OE '68-69) that I managed to make work in "series" with the K-H using the new tubes supplied in the line kit & the tubes supplied with the replacement prop valve.

     

    Doug

     

    It seems like retaining the original prop valve would limit the range which is adjustable with the K-H valve. I could be missing something... not sure.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    If you have the VIN near the windshied you should be fine.

     

    A friend of mine lives in Florida and was with a buddy who had to trailer in a car to get the title done. He said the girl that came out to check the car was in heels and didn't even bother to look at the VIN. She had the guy read the VIN to her, she looked at the title and said "They match, you're good".

     

    I just thought that was funny.

     

    I had the exact same thing happen in Ohio with my car.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I recommend cutting out one panel at a time and using what remains as reference points for aligning the new panel. When doing quarters, you should mount and align your doors and trunk lid, and then use the quarter extensions to dial in the contour of the quarter panel to match it.

     

    I replaced everything in front of the firewall first(rear aprons, front aprons, last was shock towers), then torque boxes, toeboards, and floor. Then in the following order the rear cross brace and taillight panel, quarter to taillight panel transition pieces, partial rear frame rail, trunk floors, wheel houses and finally the quarter panels.

     

    There are tips to make some things easier to line up and position properly, so don't be afraid to ask for ideas on how to make it go as smooth as possible.

  19. Posted · Edited by manley · Report reply

    Unless you really like the woodgrain interior decor, you could switch to brushed aluminum panels and such. Also aftermarket gauges would be nice. I think there are mods to make headlights and tail lights brighter.

     

    What's up with the speedo gauge? It looks like every other number is hand-written?

  25. Posted · Report reply

    The floor does not typically get a weld bead down the edge of the floor support(frame rail extension). It sounds like they could have done a better job of drawing the two pieces together to close the gap, though. I imagine you can force the gap to close up a little more and tack it in place possibly. Hopefully, they painted the interior surfaces that are not accessible to prevent rust from occurring again. I imagine you can use seam sealer to keep dirt and water out.

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