manley

Don't they deal in Fox bodies? I bought a motor from them years ago.

One thing I have noticed in the past is some floor stampings have wrinkles and others don't. You might want to go see exactly what you are buying.

Year? Body style?

My car has them.

I'm not sure about that red. I need to see the bodywork underneath it.

Police Academy?

Still looking...

It seems like retaining the original prop valve would limit the range which is adjustable with the K-H valve. I could be missing something... not sure.

A guy on stangfix.com posted a set of all the large pieces for a 67/68 for sale. Not sure what the exact difference is, but folddownseat.com should be able to tell you.

I need the 2 pieces circled in red in the picture. I haven't found them sold separately. If you have nice original pieces or know who sells the reproduction pieces by themselves, please let me know.

Or wait for Mustangs To Fear's panels: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=14157&page=16

You're talking about Scotty, right?

I had the exact same thing happen in Ohio with my car.

Hey Maxum, I've always been skeptical in regards to how well the pieces are aligned when they come pre-assembled like that. Did you notice any poor assembly or alignment issues? The individual pieces I bought and used were not perfect by any means.

I think the integrated hub was a safety change, at some point. Someone can surely confirm....

I'm a big fan of doing brakes first. Everything else is pointless if you can't stop the car! lol

I recommend cutting out one panel at a time and using what remains as reference points for aligning the new panel. When doing quarters, you should mount and align your doors and trunk lid, and then use the quarter extensions to dial in the contour of the quarter panel to match it. I replaced everything in front of the firewall first(rear aprons, front aprons, last was shock towers), then torque boxes, toeboards, and floor. Then in the following order the rear cross brace and taillight panel, quarter to taillight panel transition pieces, partial rear frame rail, trunk floors, wheel houses and finally the quarter panels. There are tips to make some things easier to line up and position properly, so don't be afraid to ask for ideas on how to make it go as smooth as possible.

Ah I see!

Unless you really like the woodgrain interior decor, you could switch to brushed aluminum panels and such. Also aftermarket gauges would be nice. I think there are mods to make headlights and tail lights brighter. What's up with the speedo gauge? It looks like every other number is hand-written?

I think the only metal scoops were the shaker scoops.

When I first got my car, I found the rubber on one motor mount had separated from the metal structure. I can't remember exactly how I discovered it, but it was not easily detectable at all.

Was this a pretty rare option? Pretty sure my car didn't come with it.

If you had the wrong sending unit, possibly for an earlier year, would this incorrect fuel gauge reading result? Would bending the arm help?

Check for shiny or "clean" spots on surfaces under the car. Check for worn bushings in the suspension components. Support the car with jack stands in a way that takes the load off the suspension and get under there, grab things and start trying to move them by hand.

The floor does not typically get a weld bead down the edge of the floor support(frame rail extension). It sounds like they could have done a better job of drawing the two pieces together to close the gap, though. I imagine you can force the gap to close up a little more and tack it in place possibly. Hopefully, they painted the interior surfaces that are not accessible to prevent rust from occurring again. I imagine you can use seam sealer to keep dirt and water out.