KT 69

Nailed it thanks!!!!!

about to install the front fender extensions my car did not have fenders so I have only aftermarket parts and nothing prior to guide how the seals go on? Looks the three studs are held on with the fender washer not certain where the seals go is that it there some other holes in the fender flanges?

That would not be the valve I was looking for. It is located on the actual bezel unit in the dash console on the heater box.

That makes sense guys. It is located in a position right next to that divertor box. I have an aftermarket system which controls all those diverting operations within the main under dash unit. I won't need it or the center console box behind the radio and dash bezel. Classic Auto Air Street Rod Cooler II unit (used this as my car is a RH drive conversion for use in OZ). P.S. Anyone from OZ or UK if you chose to go this route contact me there are issues to be aware of. Those in OZ I would highly recommend going with Falcon under dash unit.

Anyone know what this valve is...my ebay unit did not come with one and my car was completely missing so i have no clue if I need it or not

Looking for Ford 9" center section 3.25 or 3.00 ratio, must be Tracloc, 28 spline...mustang yoke most desirable.

Looking for a used (good working condition) Ford 9" center section, 3.00 or 3.25 ratio, tracloc, 28 spline....must be a posi...no peg legs wanted I can ID Tracloc by photo's. Mustang yoke wanted but not an absolute. PM or reply Doug

1969 mustang with tach installing a painless wire harness. The kit list a wire 972 for connecting the ammeter. One 972 wire is red looks like one end is to connect to the starter solenoid and then goes into the gage cluster pin out connector. Instruction do not show what post on the solenoid the ammetrer wire is to hook up to. Battery post side, S, I or opposite batery post side????? With the tach I think all I have is an idiot light for the ammeter. And I am running a one wire alternator in which case I don't think the ammeter light will work correctly. Then there is a 972 yellow ammeter wire goes from the fuse box to gage cluster pin-out connector also. For a tach application I am to remove bove from the pinout copnnector and connect the ends the two wire ends together with male/female plugs. Perhaps iI should install a volt meter and just forgetthe ammeter?

I purchased a new nuetral safety switch 69-73 mustangs. I have four wires going to the NSS in my painless wire kit yet the NSS has 2 plugs for many more wires. One connector plug is blue the other is black. Which do I use and what is the other connector for? Note my stang was a bare shell no wiring when purchased and I am wiring it with a painless kit and have none of the original wiring for referernce. It is an automatic 4 speed 4R70W out of 2003 mustang.

So are those ford numbers? Ok fastback or sport roof the same but are they considered to be a hardtop?

Went to order a new windshield for my 69 fastback. All glass companies offer three choices. Coupe, Hardtop or Convertible.....no fastback designation. So what heck is a fastback considered to be a coupe or hardtop? to me a coupe and hardtop are the same and a fastback well is a fastback!!!! So what do I order? Thing that really freaks me is not a single glass company knew either most they never herd of a fastback??????? I do know a fastback windshield is laid back around 5 degrees more than a coupe's. There is a difference they do not interchange.

This close to what I'm talking about....perhaps a bit to much difference in tire diameter and rake but very close.

Deep Purple...Highway Star. Know what I'm talking about? BIG FAT TIRES AND EVERYTHING. Part of that everything was air shocks, raked, 50 series rear tires, "DEEP DISH...DEEP OFFSET, mini tubed. I have been building trading mustangs since the late 60's. Around the mid nineties new rear suspension options allowed stangs to have large rear tires tucked up inside the rear wheel wells. They were lowered and most set nice and flat with moderate or neutral offset. Nice look but it really felt right to me. And while some of those newer air bag suspensions do ride and handle great they never captured the "real feel' and spirit of late 60's 70's muscle car. Every once and awhile I will see a true vintage muscle mustang era correct with deep dish wheels sticking about 1-2" outside the wheel well with about 1" of body to tire clearance top dead center. many are mini tubed as well. And always think that is the killer bad ass raked look of a real muscle street machine. And long for the day and the ride. I admit I love the harsh ride that air shocks deliver, I lived it back then and That is the way true muscle cars were. I miss kicking the ass end out a bit (square corner mini drift) by a throttle punch when cornering, spinning dead nut 360 cookies. And honest they actually handled pretty damn good in the corners...not many average Joe's have the guts to push it to the limit of grip which was far better than the factory set-ups of the time. I am looking for any photo's of the way a real muscle era mustang should look...the vintage muscle look or even better vintage photo's. i do not want to see tires inside the wheel wells I want to see them hanging out, setting low in front and around 5 degree of rake. I have had enough of air bagged lowered muscle era Stangs. No more I am going traditional, mini tubed, deep fricking dish wheels, Hurst T- handle shifter, air shocks and 50's series meat. Now I might add an air tank and a ride height sensor system to maintain the same rake but the rest well be traditional feel, ride and bad ass killer look. Please if you have one these machines send some photo's.

Thank you!!!!!!!

Putting my mustang back together it was just and empty shell when I bought it. Not having had a completely assembled car to take a part I am trying to piece this car back together without any original reference. Been going pretty good until I came upon the tail lights. I have my red lens, chrome trim, seals and huge metal tub with a single hole in it. Now my question......is that all a single light bulb for lights, brake lights, turn indicators.....????? Seems like something is missing? Looking online most of what I see are LED replacement for sequencial tail lights. I want to stay OEM. So does one single little bulb cover light, brake, and turn signals? Seems like something must be missing. And such a large metal backing tub. Anyone with an OEM rear tail light setup that can confirm.