rchappelear

no steve told me to go with the Cobra rears, because the parking brake cable attaches to the cobras with out modifications. The 2008gt would need to modifiy cable location for parking brake

So I purchased a mustang Steve brake kit part number GT2008-FT Everything fits like a glove but the rotor does not go on to the hub fully due to th extra length of the wheel stub knurle. Did anyone else have this issue? I was wondering if I replace these studs with a new set 1/2-20 w/a .625 knurel. Knurel length of say .4, would that be a better option

yeah thats not complicated ... just need our paper clips

no i have not cranked down the windows and tried to close the windows i will try that tonight ryan

here are some photos of the door gaps... gosh this drives me crazy as you can see the door looks to buldge out a bit in the center when closed ryan never mind i guess we cannot post photos ...

they have been on the car for a few months now (gaskets) they are the scott drake or carpetner products. they don't seem to be hard

so i just got my car back from the painters and it has a new lock mech, rubbers seals, hinges, and striker. problem i have is you have to really slam it to get the doors to close. I mean really slam it like your mad. I dont think this is right, some people have said cause its new rubbers, but i am starting to disagree. my only though it the latching mech are not the best reproductions and this is a reason for having to slam the door shut

pan through this thread and see if this info works for you http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=14482&page=2

amazing how much more production cost ford incurred between the coupe and fastback. coupe windshield, a-pillars, window trim all different then the fastback.

visual of part

so the front headliner metal trim piece the the sun visors latch to, does the coupe and fastback very??? I see on CJ pony website that they are for either or, but some other places i see coupe only. Is this part interchangeable between coupes and fastbacks or is it specific to the roof style?

i have an extra one

i have an extra one

here is the camber before the engine was installed, it did come down some after this but still need more

called TCP twice on the big block mounts and sounds like it would be a big undertaking to do this. the Tech kept referring to use shims to drop the rack and shims to raise the engine block. I know i am limited on dropping the rack due to the lower control arm bracket holes. I know i am limited on raising the engine due to the TKO600 clearing the tunnel. I am going to try to drop the rack as much as i can ( possibly 1/8") if that is not enough i will raise the engine as much as i can with out the tranny hitting the tunnel.

Awesome, thank you for the information. I was not sure if i was going to be able to shim or replace with different brackets. I really didn't want to scrap the oil pan, since its a $300 item. Never know what you are going to get when you start modifying parts on a 40yr old car.

yes the shock towers are in correct alignment. nothing in the engine bay has been modified. I will attache photos when i make it back to the shop

i sent my car to linex and had them spray down the whole underside of my car and wheel wells. I didn't do the engine bay, due to heat.

I purchased a new stock front suspension kit with 1" lowering springs. The only thing that is not stock is the TCP manual rack. After installing the upper arm, lower arm, perch, springs, and spindles did we notice a horrible negative camber when the car was set down. I maxed out the lower control arm camber adjustment bolt, which helped some, but still is ridiculous. Even when we added the engine for weight is didn't make much difference. The only thing i can think of is that they possible sent me parts that are not to spec??? Has anyone else had major camber issues when installing new suspension parts? The only reason i say that they maybe bad parts is the front end sit up very high.... That is not what i expected from 1" lowering springs. If it weren't for the $2600 price tag on the TCP suspension kit, i would just go that route.

I first installed my TCP manual rack into my 69 mustang. followed by my 351w motor with a Canton high capacity oil pan, with tko600 mounted to it. I purchased the ron morris engine mounts for both stock and the 1/2 drop option. I installed the engine and trany hoping it would fit with the stock height but would not fit, so we swapped to the 1/2 drop and the engine trans comb fit perfectly. I just noticed today that the TCP rack inner right and left boots are being pinched up against the oil pan. I have only about a 1/4" clearance between the rack shaft and the canton oil pan. besides modifying the tunnel so i can use the stock height engine mounts to make clearance, i was wondering if i could possibly take a mallet to the oil pan and add and additional 1/4" or less clearance. (of course i don't want to compromise the through of my crank shaft) what are your thoughts

bought mine friday night!

i really like the look of them, they go really well with the style of our cars. i think some of the other gauges stand out and don't provide a stream line look in the interior. Now that is a to each their own type of a thing, no offense to anyone else selection of instrument clusters.

cant afford double the price for the 69 series back light so went with the 67-68 series

yeah their is three homelink buttons so you can open up to 3 garage doors, or disarm your alarm system on your home, or open a gate to your gated community, anything really with a transmitter will work on it.

Gntx-453