Len69Coupe

here is my vert..nothing on the side.. a little  narrower and tighter than the 70.
I do think the scoop helps a lot.

If you are undecided and want to try several looks, you could always use wrap material, then if you don't like it or want to change just peel it off.
 

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

Hopefully this explains all, if it doesn't let me know (BTW, get a good wire diagram so this makes sense):

They're called show panels. I had the below site bookmarked because they had them for the 69, but don't list them any longer. Not sure who sells them now.
https://undercoverinnovations.com/?s=panel
Edit: I looked a little closer and they do still sell them. My original bookmark was dead.
https://undercoverinnovations.com/product/69-70-mustang-show-panels/

From what I have read the driveshaft has to be from a 2WD Explorer.

I don't know about the 4x4 either but I'm thinking the 4x4 rear drive shaft is a little shorter.

My DS came from a 2 door 1996. Don't know if it matters. 

Once again...the screws I mentioned look like the originals. They may also be the same screws that npd is selling but I for one do not know if they are.

We weld them up, and drill the correct  size. Going  with a bigger  screw  looks butt ugly :(

They have screws for this exact problem.  The head is the correct size the threaded portion is larger
 
 
 
https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-scuff-plate-repair-screws-for-oversized/100127?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Ddoor%2Bscuff%2Bplate%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D1970&year=1970

I'm right there with you Len.
I think this is Wurth: https://www.wurthusa.com/

I can't remember if those are small slotted holes, but if not, consider putting in a rivut nut (or equivalent) and a matching fastener.

only the special one size over screws i mentioned work and look correct. i will try to find the info for you. the wurth distributor in so cal has them.

Absolutely, doing anything with the caps after installing is next to impossible which is why you often find holes blown in the sides of the shock towers.
 
david

So I bought the front end rebuild kit from Mustang's Unlimited, which included the UCA's, LCA's, spring perches etc. Should the UCA's be ready to install? I shouldn't have to adjust the caps right? I've read when you rebuild them you should spot weld the caps. Do I need to do this on new UCA's?
 
I also ordered the Shelby Drop template :)

So I'm in the process of doing a front end rebuild and when I went to remove the drivers side UCA I noticed shims behind the rear part of the UCA. I'm guessing these are for alignment. After I get the car back together I will have an alignment done anyway, but should I reinstall these when I install the new UCA or leave them out?

So I'm in the process of doing a front end rebuild and when I went to remove the drivers side UCA I noticed shims behind the rear part of the UCA. I'm guessing these are for alignment. After I get the car back together I will have an alignment done anyway, but should I reinstall these when I install the new UCA or leave them out?

So I'm in the process of doing a front end rebuild and when I went to remove the drivers side UCA I noticed shims behind the rear part of the UCA. I'm guessing these are for alignment. After I get the car back together I will have an alignment done anyway, but should I reinstall these when I install the new UCA or leave them out?

So I'm in the process of doing a front end rebuild and when I went to remove the drivers side UCA I noticed shims behind the rear part of the UCA. I'm guessing these are for alignment. After I get the car back together I will have an alignment done anyway, but should I reinstall these when I install the new UCA or leave them out?