Len69Coupe

It's not so hot that I can't hold it in my hand, just worrisome. The resistor wire runs to the quick disconnect (QD) under the hood. On the ignition side of the QD it's held together with a butt connector about 3 inches from the QD. On the coil side the last 12 inches has been replaced and is held together with a butt connector, but the QD side doesn't get warm at all. Makes sense though since that isn't a resistor wire on the coil side. I'm going to reinstall some things tomorrow so I can fire it up and see what the pink wire does whiel the engine is running. I'm also going to measure the current at the coil and see what I have. I ordered the pro wiring diagram yesterday. Hopefully it will shed some light where the other version lacks.

Thanks Raven, I will look at the bulbs to see if they individual grounds. Any ideas on why the resistor wire to the coil is getting hot? I've checked and nothing that I see is wired wrong, on that part of the car anyway, lol. Would a bad coil make the wire draw to much current making it hot? The car runs with no problems, so I'm just taking a stab at that. Another thought I had was I've been feeling this wire with the ignition on and the car not running. I'm going to reinstall the gauges and run the car to see if the wire gets hot while running. I know the pink wire provides power and the brown wire provides power, but at different points in the start/run process.

I unwrapped the harness tape that covered the pink wire portion above the radio and found a black wire that comes from the gauge connector not connected to anything. The black wire comes out of the same hole as a purple wire on the gauge connector and is labled on the schematic as "constant". If I read the schematic correctly the black wire is the "blind circuit" on the schematic. What in the world is a blind circuit? The purple and black wires read 11.10 with ignition off and 11.50 with the ignition on.

The pink wire is a thickly insulated wire that has about the same amount of actual wire as 16 ga wire. It also doesn't have copper wire, it's a silver wire. At some point the PO used a butt connector and replaced the last 12 inches of wire going into coil with regular 16 or 18 gauge wire. I thought maybe the different type wire was the cause, but the wire on that side (coil side) of the quick-disconnect doesn't get warm at all. If it was standard wire I would try to replace it, but since it's "resistance" wire I'm not sure if it would screw something up.

Thanks for the info. The wifey had a disc removed from her neck the other day and taking care of her has really cut into my troubleshooting time, lol! She's getting better, so enough of her and back to the Mustang. lol! I was able to remove the firewall connector and fix a couple of the wires. There was a green/black wire that ran to the headlights that was bare on one side. I also found a broken wire (black) going to the quick disconnect for the right front parking light. Parking light still worked though. Kinda of weird. But, this still has done nothing for my original problem of the turn signals not working. Brief recap - replaced switch, no luck. Blue wire that has power coming into the switch has power until I turn the turn signal on, then power drops off. The blue wire is orange/yellow on the other side of the flasher and comes from a common point. All other items that run on the common point seem to work fine. Any ideas where I should go from here? Another issue I noticed is that there is a pink wiring coming from the ignition switch that goes to the coil and and the starter relay. With the ignition on this wire is getting pretty hot. Not so hot I can't touch it though. I read this is a resistance wire, does that mean it should get hot?

I have some bare wires very near the square firewall connector next to the master cylinder. One of them (brown wire) goes from there to the starter relay and is giving me high resistance. Does this connector just disconnect from the wall or do I need to remove something on the inside fo the car? Can I replace the wires coming out of it? It's crazy how many bare/rough/stripped wires I'm finding on this car. On another note, my washer pump problem, was solved with a new wiper switch:clap: Still fighting the inop turn signal problem though. Check out the photo from when I first brought the car home. I was troubleshooting wires and decided to eliminate the "wires to nowhere". Well, I got to looking at the silver box (circled) on the side and after some wire tie cutting and exploring found that this box did absolutely nothing. The 2 harnesses coming from it were plugged into each other. It was not plugged into anything on the car. WTF! I removed it and had a bit of a laugh. I know I had one of those on an old Ford truck. I think it was some type of ignition box. Why it was on the Mustang??? I will never know :scared:

Where you located?

I had a friend over today who is fairly good with wiring. He didn't have time for in-depth troubleshooting, but we did notice something else today. The wiring harness above the radio gets pretty warm when the ignition is warm, but the others stay cool. This indicates a short right? If so, would I expect to find the short in that wire bundle? Both the blue and orange/white wire that connect to the flasher run through that harness. BTW, I installed a new flasher just to be sure with no luck.

Yep, 100%. Thanks Tom, you've been a big help.

Geez these electrical problems are killing me. I replaced the switch and the turn signals still don't work. The blue wire in the connector powers the turn signals and I have power there until I turn on the turn signal, then I lose power. If I jump the red/white (emergency flashers) wire into the blue wire the signals work no problem. I have swapped the emergency flasher with the turn signal flasher with no luck. They both have the same part number #552 and Advance Auto lists both emergency and turn signal as 552, is this correct? Also, in the diagram the red/white wire is black/red, but mine is white/red. Is it normal for Ford to change the wire colors different than the diagram? There is a junction in the diagram that appears to be where the turn signal gets its power, but I can't find that junction. It appears by looking at the actual wires that the turn signals get it's power from the blue wire that runs to the flasher and comes out the other side orange. This orange wire is connected to a junction that has 4 or 5 wires coming out of it (one of those coming from the washer switch which could be related to my washer pump not working). Any ideas? This is getting on my last nerve:surrender:

Thanks guys, great suggestions! I'll give them a shot. Tom, I replaced the entire switch because you mentioned that the cam was only a fix for a turn signal that wasn't clicking into place. My issue is no turn signals. Thanks again for the help! Still haven't re-attacked the wiper switch, I have it on ignore for now. Leonard

I ended up buying the entire switch to fix my inop turn signals and now I need to transfer the connector to the new switch. I went to Advance and Autozone to buy the tool to remove the old wires from the connector and they don't carry them. I've seen them online, but for the life of me can't find one now. Anyone know what the official name of this tool is so I can search for it? Or is there a home remedy for releasing these wires from the old connector? Thanks.

Mine was originally Silver Jade, then Yellow and now Copper. I would be willing to provide all the info.

I think your 2nd link must be this: http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=HW1688

Hmm... I see the one you posted now. When I clicked on it the first time it took me to their search page.

Is this the one you were trying to post? http://johnsmustang.com/Parts/details-1535.html It doesn't look too bad, but could be better.

Great idea Tom, I'll test the switch just be sure. Thanks! Leonard

I do see where you would need to occupy your mind on something else. Good luck to your Dad and your car :tongue:

I hope your Dad recovers well. I wouldn't be able to look at my car if something was wrong with my Dad. Good luck!

OK, I got back at it today. Thanks for all the suggestions. I disconnected the harness connector at the switch and my continuity from the connector is good is good all the way to the pump connector (no resistance). On the switch connector I jumped the green and the orange/white wires and the pump runs. This is telling me the switch is the issue right? That''s how I see it, but I just wanted to bounce it off the forum first. It's funny because I originally ordered the variable wiper switch made by Drake and when I installed it nothing worked, no wipers or pump. I recently sent that back for refund and would recommend that people stay away from that switch. Thanks for all the help :)

If it's leaking where the driveshaft enters the 3rd member it's the pinion seal. Pretty easy to change if thats it.

Well, I cleaned up the connector and it still doesn't work. With the key on and the car just sitting there I get 11.2 volts from the connector, with it running I get over 12 volts, which should be more than enough to run the pump. Connector has power, pump works, put the 2 together and nothing. I'm chasing my tail, what am I missing?

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

When I bought my car the reservoir and washer pump were missing, so I replaced both. The pump won't operate when I push the washer button, but it will if I jump a hot wire straight to it from the battery. I have verified power and ground at the washer pump connector. Best I can figure is it's not getting enough power to run the pump from it's connector. What would cause not enough juice to flow through it's dedicated plug? :surrender:

Here are a couple more photos before the rebuild.