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Len69Coupe

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Posts posted by Len69Coupe

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Hey, I bought a sport mirror to mount on the passenger side and it came with the mounting kit. The mounting kit has 2 sheet metal screws, 2 machine screws and 2 metal inserts that get inserted in the doors I'm guessing after you drill the required holes. The inserts have a very small lip on one end. So does this lip go inside the door or outside? Does the insert expand or something when you tighten the screws down? There is no way they could hold the mirror on otherwise, but I want to makse sure before I go drilling holes. What are the sheet metal screws for?

     

    Here is the closet pic I could find of the inserts, although those seem to have a larger lip.

     

    http://johnsmustang.com/Catalog/371/

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hey Tom, I bought it used off EBAY and it came with the remote mirror bezel. I'm going to paint the mirror the same color as the car. I thought about taking the easy way out and painting it black, but I think it would look better the same color as the car. I had to put a new mirror in it and that was $20, but the guy I bought it from covered that.

     

    I didn't think I was very clear in my original question. If you look close at the link there is a bracket that mounts to the back of the bezel with 2 bolts. That is the part I'm asking about where it mounts. So there is a cutout in the door that it bolts to? So it would go through the door panel and the door? It will probably make a lot more sense when I remove the door panel. Thanks for the help.

     

     

    http://johnsmustang.com/Catalog/4738/

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I bought a sport mirror with remote for the drivers side. In all the photos of the door I can find it looks like the remote is mounted straight up from the window crank. Is that right? I never l found a really good pic though. Also, I have a standard interior, does the mounting bolts go through just the door panel, or through the panel and the door? Hope that makes sense.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Not sure what holes either. I went out and test fitted mine again. If I went shortest in the front to longest in the back it would be natural/red/red/white, but it seems to fit a lot better natural/red/white/red. I was hoping someone on here had the answer. I guess I will have to try another Mustang forum.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    LFugate are you working on a coupe and are your bows shaped and painted similar to mine?

     

    Yes I am. I have 2 red, 1 white and 1 with no color. I was standing there when the guy removed them from the donor car. He started marking them with a paint pen after he removed 2 of them, but I think he got them backwards. Just not sure though that's why I need to know too.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I finally fixed my turn signals. I was at my wits end and was ready to run a new wire, but I thought let me go back and check the basics. When I bought the car first thing I did was check all the fuses and all were good. Having power to the switch also made me think all was fine with them. I ended up removing the fuse for the turn signals and using a small brush scrubed the contacts in the fuse box and sprayed it all out with electrical cleaner. Reinstalled the fuse and the signals started working:clap: I'm frustrated at the time and money I spent, but pretty happy they are fixed. It gave me a chance to learn all the wiring in the car too:whistling: Now on to the next project.

     

    Thanks to everyone for the help!

  23. Posted · Report reply

    It's not so hot that I can't hold it in my hand, just worrisome. The resistor wire runs to the quick disconnect (QD) under the hood. On the ignition side of the QD it's held together with a butt connector about 3 inches from the QD. On the coil side the last 12 inches has been replaced and is held together with a butt connector, but the QD side doesn't get warm at all. Makes sense though since that isn't a resistor wire on the coil side. I'm going to reinstall some things tomorrow so I can fire it up and see what the pink wire does whiel the engine is running. I'm also going to measure the current at the coil and see what I have.

     

    I ordered the pro wiring diagram yesterday. Hopefully it will shed some light where the other version lacks.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Raven, I will look at the bulbs to see if they individual grounds.

     

    Any ideas on why the resistor wire to the coil is getting hot? I've checked and nothing that I see is wired wrong, on that part of the car anyway, lol. Would a bad coil make the wire draw to much current making it hot? The car runs with no problems, so I'm just taking a stab at that. Another thought I had was I've been feeling this wire with the ignition on and the car not running. I'm going to reinstall the gauges and run the car to see if the wire gets hot while running. I know the pink wire provides power and the brown wire provides power, but at different points in the start/run process.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I unwrapped the harness tape that covered the pink wire portion above the radio and found a black wire that comes from the gauge connector not connected to anything. The black wire comes out of the same hole as a purple wire on the gauge connector and is labled on the schematic as "constant". If I read the schematic correctly the black wire is the "blind circuit" on the schematic. What in the world is a blind circuit? The purple and black wires read 11.10 with ignition off and 11.50 with the ignition on.

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