Len69Coupe

Seems I'm missing these as well. Anyobe have pics of where they mount?

I never meant to imply what forum it was in my attempt to keep things as neutral as possible. Part of the reason for keeping it neutral as possible in case 69shelbycoupe wanted to comment, it was up to him. He hasn't commented on this thread anywhere that I know of. Yes, he did send pictures, but left out pics of the rusted areas, except for the area on the corner that he stated "It's just surface bubbling and could be sanded and sprayed with filler primer". It is definitely the same lid in the photos he sent me as the clear coat is badly peeling on the outside of the lid. I agree that in the small (ish) group like this that I did feel a sense of trust that I wouldn't feel on some larger sites. Just another reason to trust no one and by no means am I saying that this is the fault of this site.

Buyer beware when dealing with this seller. This is his idea of "no rust or dents". He did provide a partial refund, but I sure didn't get what he said he was selling. He was reply was "I thinks it's fair"

I agree he's not a total loser, but to advertise it as 'dent and rust free" is a total lie (btw, it does have dents on the inside). He made it semi-right with the partial refund. I sure didn't get what he advertised though. Anyway, you can look at my response to 69shelbycoupe right in the "Parts for sale/Wanted" section on 1969Stang.com.

Well, the guy refunded me $75, so I'm still out $35 in the deal with a lid that is far from rust or dent free as he stated. He told me refiunding me $75 was totally fair. I don't see it that way. Only a blind person could look at this lid and call it rust and dent free. I really think people need to be warned that this guy can't be trusted with his parts. Should a post a warning about him in the selling forum as a seperate thread or in the thread he's selling other parts? Or not at all? Thanks for the advice.

Yea, I used Paypal. Never realized that they protected you outside of EBay. I'll give the guy a chance to come forward and reslove this himself, then I'm going to Paypal. If he doesn't make this right should I mentioned something about this in the forum he's selling other parts in? I sure would want someone telling me before I bought from someone misrepresenting his parts. Rangerdoc, I'll keep you in mind if this doesn't pan out. Thanks.

Need some advice please. I bought a trunk lid from a guy that advertised it on a site as "Rust and dent free". After negotiating back and forth we came to an agreement of $65 for the lid. Great price for a rust and dent free lid in my book. Before I made the payment I asked for photos and when he sent them to me I noticed rust on the outside rear edge. He said it just surface bubbling and could be sanded and sprayed with filler primer. Not being a body guy I was disappointed, but if that was all that was wrong with it I could deal with it. I made the payment through paypal and he shipped it. When I got it the first thing I noticed was the underside lip was severly rusted and parts of the lip (part crimped over) was actually rusted away. I took photos and sent them to him asking why he didn't mention the rust. He replied saying "honestly i didn't even realized that. I was mostly looking at the outside of the trunk lid for rust and dents". After that I took another closer look at the trunk and the edge where he said could be sanded and filled with primer was actually rusted through and you can actually see 2 seperate layers of sheet metal. I'm pretty peeved about the whole thing, but don't want to over react, which I can do pretty easily :glare:. So here I am, what would you do? Demand partial refund to offset the rust? Demand entire refund? Call him out on the forum he participates in since he's selling other stuff? I don't think there is legally anything I can do is there? [ATTACH]7966[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7967[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7968[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7969[/ATTACH]

http://www.cjponyparts.com/product.asp?pn=B3R It's on sale now too! Or front and back. http://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-chrome-pair-1969-1970/p/B3P/

I just wrote them and asked if they are going to do any for 69 Coupe's. I'll post the answer when they respond.

Doesn't work for me. All I see is a blue Mustang sitting in the dark.

Yes, it's pretty hot here. It's so hot the fire ants are moving north for the summer. LOL!

Yes, it's pretty hot here. It's so hot the fire ants are moving north for the summer. LOL!

Thanks fellas! I'll guess I'll keep it and weld it up. Like Coz said, the quality isn't there anymore.

So I ordered a new battery apron since mine is rusted out. When it arrived I unpacked it and noticed what I thought was a crack. I took pics and sent them to CJ Pony parts who said they would send a new one and they had the old one picked up. Well, the new one arrives and it's cracked as well. I emailed CJ Pony and Gary replied with this: "Leonard, I did forward your email and picture to my manager. He says that it is actually a fold in the metal and not a crack. All of those parts are going to look like that. If you are unhappy with the quality we can take it back for a full refund. We apologize for the inconvenience." I can see through this fold as he calls because it is void of metal and I don't think it's a fold at all. Has anyone else ordered a battery apron that has this fold/crack? I find it odd that a part would be made with that deformity, but I like CJ's and don't want to be at odds if with them if they're right.

I got the carb rebuilt and when I reinstalled it the car ran fine. Problem is after about 30 seconds fuel starts leaking out of the accelerator pump cover. When I pulled the carb apart initially the needle seat was sticking out about 1/8 of an inch, so I seated all the way in. Should it be sticking out or flush? Only other thing I can think of is the float is incorrectly set, but I didn't make any adjustments to the float. The rebuild kit I bought from Autozone was pretty close to useless. Any ideas?

Anyone know if the needle seat is pressed in or what? Don't want to screw anything up. Still waiting on rebuild kit to come in, but want to be ready.

Sorry, correction again. Shop manual said a Carter YF, but parts breakdown had a Ford 6531. Had to print both pics and take them out there to figure which was correct. It's the Ford 6531. Thanks. Edit: Which is actually an Autolite 1100. Geez, took awhile to figure that one out :)

Thanks Revhead! Not sure of the model though. Which part store carries Borg-Warner? I checked Advance and Autozone with no luck. Edit: Just figured out the carb is a Carter YF 1V.

OK, after much tinkering I thought I had it figured out when I took an ohm measurement across the secondary post on the coil and got zero resistance. Everything I read said that indicates a shorted coil. I replaced it and that wasn't. Tested the rest of the electrical and eveything seemed good. Remove the carb tonight and their was no fuel in the bowl and the fuel inlet needle is stuck. So now can I simply unstick it and hope it doesn't do it again? Sure would hate to do that and it happen again. Does that part come in a carb rebuild? At this point I will gladly buy the kit if it comes with the necessary parts to prevent this again, lol!

Thanks for all the tips. I'm headed out to try the suggestions now.

Well, I got the car back together after 3 or so months of it just sitting there and me and the wife took it out Sunday for about an hour drive and it ran great. Monday I decide to drive it to work which is about 6 miles. Halfway there it dies, no warning or anything. I tried to restart it while rolling down the road with no luck so I pull over and after about 30 seconds it fires right back up and runs fine. I get back on the road and 200 yards later it sputters and quits, again no restart while on the road. I get off the road again and it restarts after about 30 seconds. This time I head back home and the scenario repeats itself twice more every 100 or so yards. Finally I decide I better just get a wrecker :surrender:. I go out today to mess with it and first I think is fuel pump or plugged filter. I disconnect the hose at the clear filter by the distributor and get plenty of fuel when turned over, same thing at filter at the carb. Reconnect all lines, reconnect coil and it fires right up and runs for about a minute and dies, refires and runs about 30 seconds and dies. From there runs times seem to get shorter. I'm starting to think carb rebuild, maybe a sticking float? I didn't want to tackle that until I got some advice the experts here. So what do you think? Oh yea, engine is 250CI I6. Thanks!

Thanks guys. 70Mach, I bought the tool because I needed a rivet gun anyway and the one I bought does 3 types of rivets. It will come in handy later I'm sure. So D.Reese, is the remote that big of a pain? What issues did you have?