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Len69Coupe

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Posts posted by Len69Coupe

  2. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/8/2020 at 6:52 PM, mustangstofear said:

    I would bring the green clip up, but I also would never use that type of clip. The problem is you would never be able to replace them without removing the windshield.  

     

    What color is that?

     

    Was there some type of gasket installed before you set the windshield in place? I thought the 69's didn't have a windshield gasket.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    20 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    I have a 70 Cougar with corroded fuse box due to cowl leak and I am planning to use a fuse box like the one you linked as a replacement.

    Yep, my has some corrosion from a leak also.

    11 hours ago, Midlife said:

    Those replacement fuse clips from Mustang vendors are absolute cr@p.  They are made of the wrong material, plated with chrome rather than an anti-corrosion material, and are very brittle.  They are also almost impossible to spread apart to install a fuse. 

    Replacement clips can be found commercially in singles; they can be riveted to a steel plate for doubles.  Since I have innumerable fuse boxes from cannibalized harnesses, I simply select a good set of clips and splice the wires. 

    Thanks for the info on those being crap.

    Where can you find them individually? I've searched and can't seem to find them except in a kit.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    So my fuse box is in pretty bad shape. I was replacing a fuse the other day and one of the metal fuse terminal connectors broke off. I know I can buy these https://www.npdlink.com/product/repair-kit-fuse-box-terminal-8-fuse-terminals/102075 and replace the terminals, but if I'm going to do that why not replace the box with a modern fuse box? I really don't want to replace the wiring harness because wiring is not my strong point and it seems like a ton of headaches I'd get myself in to.

    So what options do I have. Can I do something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Holder-Indicator-Suitable-Automotive-Weiruixin/dp/B07BF2V57M/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+fuse+box&qid=1592654862&sr=8-4 or is there a better option?

     

  7. Posted · Report reply

    So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.

    Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.

    I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.

    Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.

     

     

    2016-09-17 16.17.54.jpg

    2018-11-26 17.33.36.jpg

    2019-01-13 13.06.35.jpg

    Caseyrhe, bigmal, JayEstes and 3 others reacted to this

  8. Posted · Report reply

    On ‎4‎/‎14‎/‎2020 at 9:31 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

     

    The terminal block can be something this simple- in fact this is twice the size needed. You will only need the left two strips. Connect wire 904 to the bottom left screw, one end of the resistor to the top left screw, the other end of the resistor to the next screw over, and the wire that will go to "I" will connect to the bottom screw on that strip.

    image.png

    Great, that helps me understand the resistor.

    Again, thanks for your help.

     

  9. Posted · Report reply

    20 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

     

    Yes, the Painless comes with another fuse box with fuel pump and EEC relays. The only connections to the original harness is a yellow wire to the B+ starter relay and 2 red/green wires to the ignition (coil) switch.

    It doesn't connect to the ammeter that I can tell. Will damage occur if I wire it up according to your diagram and leave the ammeter? At this point I need to get this thing running.

    Sorry, forgot to say it's a 560 resistor. I'll have to research the terminal block. Another opportunity to learn something new :)

    Thanks.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    On ‎4‎/‎11‎/‎2020 at 6:59 PM, Mach1 Driver said:

    No, you wouldn't have seen it before....because I just made it ;)   I hope it is useful.

    It helps that I'm a retired electrical engineer and I have an interest in this year and model car.

    That's awesome. It helps a lot. I do have some questions though because I'm horrible with wiring:

     

    The line with the fuse (Note 2) goes where?

    The 655R wire (red) goes to ground? What does the "V" mean. Looked at circuit symbols and don't see that.

    The lines that end in "NC" means what?

    I ordered " 1/2W .5 Watt 5% Tolerance Carbon Film Resistors" from FleaBay. I hope that's correct. I've never done anything with resistors before. Do you cut the line and solder in the resistor or remove the covering from the wiring in 2 places (leaving the wire intact) and solder in the resistor. Couldn't find anything definite on YouTube.

    To add to the confusion I'm installing a new Painless ECM wiring harness for the EFI 302 I've installed. Painless my butt, there is some things they could definitely explain better, lol.

    Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.  

  13. Posted · Report reply

    15 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    No. There are two things to consider in 69: 1) You either have an ammeter, or 2) An idiot light replaces the ammeter because there wasn't room for an ammeter when they put in a factory tach. I'm guessing you have an ammeter?

    I would choose a Ford type 3G alternator, not one made by PA Performance. The only beef I have with the PA unit is that it is unique and requires a special regulator that is external to the alternator. If you break down on the road somewhere and need an new alternator, you can't go to the local auto parts store to buy a replacement that would get you going again.

     

    Yes, I have an Ammeter (gauge says alternator).

    I didn't buy the PA Performance one. I'd never heard of that one until I was trying to figure tis out and read an old thread on here about how to wire that version. I have the Ford 3G.

     

    4 hours ago, unilec said:

    I am assuming your new alternator has an internal regulator, so you do not need the external regulator any more. The red warning light or idiot light is there to provide excitation to the regulator circuit, most alternators require the globe in question (bosch comes to mind) to not exceed 2 watts, but you should be ok with the Ford original light. And yes the wire you mentioned is the one to go to the light.

    It does have the internal regulator. So the green/red that used to go to the old regulator "S" connection gets connected to the green/red on the alternator?

    When I eliminate the old regulator the large black wires and red wire that went to the regulator can just terminate in the harness? Anyone have an idea the best/safest way to do that?

    Thanks guys.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    So I'm installing a new 3G alternator and can't seem to figure one of the wires. I've seen may schematics on how to do this and they all seem to be different, so I'm relying on the 1965 schematic posted. I have it all figured out except the Lt Green/red wire coming off the ASI. It says this wire goes to the "I" wire from old regulator setup. My regulator doesn't have a wire connected to the "I" connector. The only green/red wire I have on the old regulator is from the "S" connector on the regulator. Should I use the "S" wire on old regulate to the red/green wire?

    3G install.jpg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, Midlife said:

    That PRNDL lead was supplied on all underdash harnesses, whether used or not.  That saved Ford from having to manufacture different harnesses for slightly different applications. 

    There are a number of unused connectors/plugs on nearly every year underdash harness.  Not unusual at all.

    That makes sense. I know that's done a lot with the newer vehicles also.

    I went back through all my photos and didn't find a photo of that plug. I must have thought since it wasn't connected to anything I wouldn't need a pic, duh.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the response fellas. The car was a 3 speed manual, so maybe it wasn't hooked up to anything. Sure is chewed up though.

    I bought the T5 reverse light pigtail. I removed the 3 speed reverse light connector and am soldering the new pigtail to the old reverse light harness. That part is pretty straight forward.

    The T5 has a neutral safety switch (NSS) on the trans. I'm guessing the 3 speed did also because I don't see any kind of clutch pedal NSS switch.  I'm using the painless wiring harness since I've converted the inline 250 six cylinder to an EFI 302. There are instructions on hooking up the NSS that came with the Painless instructions, it's just I suck at wiring. I'm going to have my son come over to give me a hand with that.

     

    Thanks for the help.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Starting to reinstall some of the car and I can't remember what this blue with red strip wire connects to. I've scoured wiring diagrams and my photos I took during disassembly and can't figure it out. It's in the harness that connects to the w/s wiper motor, reverse lights and coil. It's pretty chewed up so hopefully I remove it completely.

    2020-03-28 14.05.18.jpg

  22. Posted · Report reply

    So I'm doing my mock up for my EFI system. When I install the tank the fuel tank filler tube doesn't line up. This is a Tanks Inc. EFI fuel tank kit. So either the angle on the taillight panel that I replaced is wrong or the tank spout is in the wrong location. I have the tank pulled as far to the rear as possible.

    I thought maybe I could cut the filler tube shorter since the  rubber adapter is flexible, but I'm not sure if that would correct this or not.

    I thought I read that the 70 filler tube is at less of an angle then the 69. Can anyone confirm?

     

     

     

    Tank filler.jpg

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