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Everything posted by Len69Coupe

  1. Thanks aslanefe. I'll install it that way.
  2. Replacing the I6 with a 302 and have a question on the motor mount. Does the tang go on the bottom or top of the motor mount. I don't want to have the motor half way in and realize I have them wrong.
  3. I'm definitely willing to try the screws, as long as they don't look butt ugly like mustangstofear said. If I can't get them to look right I'll weld the holes and re-drill. Thanks for all the help guys. Len
  4. Cantedvalve, I was truly hoping there was an easier way, probably because I'm lazy. Not really, LOL. barnett468, I was thinking going to larger screw wouldn't work because of the size of the hole in the sill plates. Wouldn't a larger screw not fit in the plate properly. I don't know what a Wurth is? Online store?
  5. Any tips on repairing sheet metal holes that have been stripped. Specifically talking about the door sill holes. Can't really install larger screws I don't think. I've always fixed stripped wood by inserting a toothpick and then installing a screw. I thought about trying to stick a piece of welding wire in the hole and then the screw, but I'm not sure if that work or last. The car is completely stripped right now and I thought maybe weld the holes up and drill them back out. Seems like a PIA though. Any tips?
  6. Thanks for the info guys. I was scared it was pot metal. I'll figure what to do about the broken tab.
  7. It's a mystery. I'm sure I thought when I removed it I'd remember. Wrong! Lol. So Caseyrhe's post did remind me I do have a tab broken off on the headlight bucket. Anyone know what the bucket material is? I'm guessing aluminum. I just won't to make sure it can be welded back on before I take it somewhere.
  8. Caseyrhe, nope, nothing broken of the fender. Unilec, I think you're correct, sure looks like one of those hangar parts. Thanks gents.
  9. Hmmm...trap door? Is that in a Sportsroof? I have a coupe.
  10. Going through my stuff looking for my parking brake cable connector and ran across this part. Went through all my photos of disassembly and can't figure it out. It was with my rear bump stops and parking cable hardware. Any ideas? Never did find my parking brake cable connector :( I just know as soon as I order a new one I'll find the old one.
  11. Thanks guys! I think MDL could do a little better on their instructions, or I'm just dense ;)
  12. Started looking at the install for the MDL Hyd Clutch Master Cylinder install. Instructions have me confused because they start off talking about converting an Auto Trans Car and the pics don't match my manual car. Should the master cylinder use the stock clutch hole? Don't want to start making new holes when it would seem the stock clutch hole would be the place to install the cylinder. Any tips for installing the system? Couldn't find any good videos of install.
  13. Thanks Brian. I appreciate the info. Now I can finish the install today. Len
  14. So finally getting back to assembling the front end. When I removed the strut rods the bushing cups concave side faced the bushings. Now I'm installing synthetic elastomer bushings that are supposed to be softer than polyurethane, but better life than rubber. Bing searches reveal some photos of the rear cup with the concave side (convex against bushing) facing the rear of the car. People have said this helps reduce the stress on the strut rods. What's the right way? Here's the bushings. https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/bushing_kit_strut_rod_includes_bushings-198690-0.html
  15. Ended up going with Opentracker. Really hoping it helps low speed steering effort. Thanks for the help.
  16. I'll check my local parts place. I also checked out the Opentracker as well. Nice product. Thanks guys. Edit: here is the correct 2nd one http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Steering/Idler-Arm-Bushings-Brackets/Idler-Arm-1967-1970-Mustang-Cougar-with-Manual-Steering.axd Over twice the price for the Moog. And Advance wants over $100. They're nuts.
  17. So I'm rebuilding (still) the steering on my manual steering 69. The seals are shot on the idler arm and I thought I'd replace them, but might as well replace the arm right? Several sites show different arms for the manual steering: this http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Steering/Idler-Arm-Bushings-Brackets/Idler-Arm-1967-1970-Mustang-Cougar-with-Manual-Steering.axd and this http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/Mustang/Steering/Idler-Arm-Bushings-Brackets/Idler-Arm-1967-1970-Mustang-Cougar-with-Manual-Steering.axd The 2nd one is a Moog and looks more like mine, but which is correct? Is the cheaper one that crappy? Here's mine:
  18. Ok thanks. I guess I'll measure the old UCA's and compare those dimension's to the new. I really didn't have to jack around with those caps, but I want to make sure I put it back together correctly. All adjustments to the caps and spot welds should be made before installing them right?
  19. So I bought the front end rebuild kit from Mustang's Unlimited, which included the UCA's, LCA's, spring perches etc. Should the UCA's be ready to install? I shouldn't have to adjust the caps right? I've read when you rebuild them you should spot weld the caps. Do I need to do this on new UCA's? I also ordered the Shelby Drop template :)
  20. So if I do the Shelby 1" drop do I need to do the wedge kit? Oh, and is the Shelby drop recommended on manual steering? I'd hate to increase how hard the steering turns.
  21. Thanks. I hope I can find a good alignment shop when the time comes.
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