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Len69Coupe

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Everything posted by Len69Coupe

  1. Yes, the Painless comes with another fuse box with fuel pump and EEC relays. The only connections to the original harness is a yellow wire to the B+ starter relay and 2 red/green wires to the ignition (coil) switch. It doesn't connect to the ammeter that I can tell. Will damage occur if I wire it up according to your diagram and leave the ammeter? At this point I need to get this thing running. Sorry, forgot to say it's a 560 resistor. I'll have to research the terminal block. Another opportunity to learn something new :) Thanks.
  2. Looks like are installs are somewhat similar.
  3. That's awesome. It helps a lot. I do have some questions though because I'm horrible with wiring: The line with the fuse (Note 2) goes where? The 655R wire (red) goes to ground? What does the "V" mean. Looked at circuit symbols and don't see that. The lines that end in "NC" means what? I ordered " 1/2W .5 Watt 5% Tolerance Carbon Film Resistors" from FleaBay. I hope that's correct. I've never done anything with resistors before. Do you cut the line and solder in the resistor or remove the covering from the wiring in 2 places (leaving the wire intact) and solder in the resistor. Couldn't find anything definite on YouTube. To add to the confusion I'm installing a new Painless ECM wiring harness for the EFI 302 I've installed. Painless my butt, there is some things they could definitely explain better, lol. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
  4. Mach1 Driver, Thanks, I haven't seen this one before.
  5. Yes, I have an Ammeter (gauge says alternator). I didn't buy the PA Performance one. I'd never heard of that one until I was trying to figure tis out and read an old thread on here about how to wire that version. I have the Ford 3G. It does have the internal regulator. So the green/red that used to go to the old regulator "S" connection gets connected to the green/red on the alternator? When I eliminate the old regulator the large black wires and red wire that went to the regulator can just terminate in the harness? Anyone have an idea the best/safest way to do that? Thanks guys.
  6. So I'm installing a new 3G alternator and can't seem to figure one of the wires. I've seen may schematics on how to do this and they all seem to be different, so I'm relying on the 1965 schematic posted. I have it all figured out except the Lt Green/red wire coming off the ASI. It says this wire goes to the "I" wire from old regulator setup. My regulator doesn't have a wire connected to the "I" connector. The only green/red wire I have on the old regulator is from the "S" connector on the regulator. Should I use the "S" wire on old regulate to the red/green wire?
  7. That makes sense. I know that's done a lot with the newer vehicles also. I went back through all my photos and didn't find a photo of that plug. I must have thought since it wasn't connected to anything I wouldn't need a pic, duh.
  8. Thanks for the response fellas. The car was a 3 speed manual, so maybe it wasn't hooked up to anything. Sure is chewed up though. I bought the T5 reverse light pigtail. I removed the 3 speed reverse light connector and am soldering the new pigtail to the old reverse light harness. That part is pretty straight forward. The T5 has a neutral safety switch (NSS) on the trans. I'm guessing the 3 speed did also because I don't see any kind of clutch pedal NSS switch. I'm using the painless wiring harness since I've converted the inline 250 six cylinder to an EFI 302. There are instructions on hooking up the NSS that came with the Painless instructions, it's just I suck at wiring. I'm going to have my son come over to give me a hand with that. Thanks for the help.
  9. They're called show panels. I had the below site bookmarked because they had them for the 69, but don't list them any longer. Not sure who sells them now. https://undercoverinnovations.com/?s=panel Edit: I looked a little closer and they do still sell them. My original bookmark was dead. https://undercoverinnovations.com/product/69-70-mustang-show-panels/
  10. Shifter light plug? Would that be a neutral safety switch or something like that? I put a T5 in and I'm still trying to figure out how to install a neutral safety switch for the T5.
  11. Starting to reinstall some of the car and I can't remember what this blue with red strip wire connects to. I've scoured wiring diagrams and my photos I took during disassembly and can't figure it out. It's in the harness that connects to the w/s wiper motor, reverse lights and coil. It's pretty chewed up so hopefully I remove it completely.
  12. Thanks for the help det0326. I'll cut it and see how it looks. If not I'll see if I can find the aftermarket tube.
  13. So I'm doing my mock up for my EFI system. When I install the tank the fuel tank filler tube doesn't line up. This is a Tanks Inc. EFI fuel tank kit. So either the angle on the taillight panel that I replaced is wrong or the tank spout is in the wrong location. I have the tank pulled as far to the rear as possible. I thought maybe I could cut the filler tube shorter since the rubber adapter is flexible, but I'm not sure if that would correct this or not. I thought I read that the 70 filler tube is at less of an angle then the 69. Can anyone confirm?
  14. Thanks. Standard 69 Mustang u-joints or something special?
  15. Thanks. The guy wasn't ready to part out that Explorer anyway. He's trying sell it whole first. So when you measure, do you measure from center of u-joint cup to center of u-joint cup? If I measure that way mine is 50 1/2". My son is coming back in a few days, so I'll be able to get final measurements soon.
  16. Good idea on using water. I think I'll wait until my son gets back into town and he can measure with me and the wife adding 320 lbs to the car. I did find a 1996 Explorer 4X4 four door on CL that a guy is parting out. I'm not sure that would be a 50 1/2' D/S or not though. Waiting to hear back from him about a price.
  17. After a lot of reading most people say the stock driveshaft is 51". Some people have gotten away with using the stock and others have had to have it shortened. The difference some have said is the 9" had to be shortened and the 8" should be good. I have the 8", so crossing my fingers. That's a great idea about the driveshaft from an Explorer. I'll keep that in mind. Any idea what years those came from? Does it use the stock size u-joints that the 69 Mustang uses? After a lot of reading most people say the stock driveshaft is 51". Some people have gotten away with using the stock and others have had to have it shortened. The difference some have said is the 9" had to be shortened and the 8" should be good. I have the 8", so crossing my fingers. A friend said there is a shop about 30 miles away that can shorten the one I have. Not sure if they can make a complete shaft. I'll load up the car with some weight and get another measurement and see where I'm at. Thanks for the help.
  18. It came with 5 lug, so I don't have to change that.
  19. I've never messed with diff gears before. I'd really hate to mess up the pre-load and have a screwed up diff. I do plan to eventually have a limited slip installed, so it may be the time to do it if I change the yoke on the diff.
  20. I guess I fit the 200lb weight, but I don't think I can get the wife to do the measuring, lol. Anyone have an idea on what it should cost to shorten the D/S? I've thought about new, but all the ones I've seen (steel) are around $250. Thanks for the help.
  21. Well, I never thought about having everything installed on the car. Right now no trunk lid, gas tank or interior. I guess I'll have to wait until I get everything back on then and measure. Any idea what's the minimum clearance once I re-install everything?
  22. Changing the I6 with 3 speed to 302 with T5. How much clearance needed between slip yoke and trans is required? Trying to figure out if I need to shorten the driveshaft. Pic is with the old slip yoke installed, but I compared it to the new yoke and don't see any difference. I don't want to install the new yoke yet if I have to have the D/S shortened.
  23. Install went well. Thanks for thelp.
  24. Mike65 and aslanefe, thanks for the help. If it goes bad I'll let you know, lol.
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