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Posts posted by Len69Coupe

  1. 5 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    As they were with your cowl panel hardware, they go under the cowl panel where the rubber bumps are at both ends to level the cowl with fender. Put them between cowl panel and cowl before you tighten the rubber bumper screw (screw goes through the opening of shim). My 69 Grande have those to align the cowl panel.

    That males sense and explains why they were with my cowl hardware. Thanks!

  2. I really wanted the Fiero seats in mine. I just couldn't find any close that were a decent price. I ended up buying Infinity Q50 front and rear seats for $200. The front seats were larger than I expected. I re-sold the fronts for $200 and did some mods to the rear. They were too tall like the seats you have. I shortened the bottom seat and put the top section behind the bottom, making it sit lower. It still sits a tad high but I think they will work.

    I bought Scat seats for the front. They look and feel good. I'm a little worried about how long they will last though. Not sure the quality of the material. I made my own tracks for them since they wanted $80 each for Mustang specific tracks.

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  3. On 10/28/2020 at 9:04 AM, Mach1 Driver said:

    If you are undecided and want to try several looks, you could always use wrap material, then if you don't like it or want to change just peel it off.


    That's really cool. I'm not sure I'd have the patience to do that though. It'd probably be easier than what he did though since I don't have a hood scoop.  Good thing about that is it's not permanent and I could change it if I didn't like it.

    22 hours ago, 1969vert said:

    how about 428 style on the hood.. and boss type down the side... did this a few years ago


    I do like those hood stripes.  I've never been a big fan of the stripes on the side though.

  4. 12 hours ago, rwcstang said:

    IMO I think they work well with early model fastbacks/coupes, but never liked them on 69-70 mustangs as I was used to seeing the matte hood and trunk ( i.e Mach 1/Boss). I like that style even more as it had a purpose of blocking the sun hitting the hood and potentially distracting the drivers eyesight. 

    Yep, that's what I had read. Not a lot of 69/70's around here so I can't say I'm used to the blacked out hoods. I have a couple weeks to decide since my painter is on the road. The more I look at the Le Mans the more I get used to them. Of course I got used to the stripes I had before, even though they were horrible, lol.

    8 hours ago, EastYorkStang said:

    What about a single offset stripe ? Thinking about doing it if I get rid of my shaker. 

    That would be different. You're not worried it would throw of the visual balance of the car. I've seen some cars like that and they didn't look bad.


    I didn't even realize the gold car was a 70 style. I thought it was a more modern design. I showed it to the wife and got a mixed response though. I think it looks pretty good and will still consider that design. 

    rmarks, your search skills are definitely better than mine. I found everything but the pics I was looking for, lol. Those are some great examples. I can see where the stripes on the crown of the hood kinda looks weird looking from the side on the 69. Overall I like the look though.

    Thanks for your thoughts fellas.

    My painter (son) did this to his Mustang a few years back. Unfortunately he lost it shortly after. He added twin turbos and was out testing them and it caught fire.  He thinks it was an injector, but was never really sure. He had forgotten his fire extinguisher and still kicks himself over that.




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  6. So I'm at the stage of deciding on stripes or not. Car will be same color as before (burnt orange/copper) and I bought white paint initially to do Le Mans stripes. Now after more research I've read Le Mans stripe don't look that great on 69's though. I think they look good on the blue car posted, but it's not a good pic looking down the hood. I do not have a hood scoop like the blue car.

    I've also thought of these larger stripes like on the gold car. I have no idea on the dimensions for those though.

    It had these ridiculous stripes on it when I bought it. Don't know what the PO was thinking. 

    Anyone have good pics of a coupe with Lemans stripes? Opinion's on Lemans on 69's?

    Lemans with thin stripes.jpg

    Big stripe 1.jpg


  7. 21 hours ago, 69RavenConv said:

    Generally, no. The one "gotcha" I'm aware of is they don't offer roadside if you have a flat with no spare. 


    16 hours ago, RPM said:

    You pick what type driving fits your car. If you pick daily driver they won't insure you. 



    Good info. I thought they limited how much you could drive. Thanks.

  8. On 6/8/2020 at 6:52 PM, mustangstofear said:

    I would bring the green clip up, but I also would never use that type of clip. The problem is you would never be able to replace them without removing the windshield.  


    What color is that?


    Was there some type of gasket installed before you set the windshield in place? I thought the 69's didn't have a windshield gasket.

  9. 20 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    I have a 70 Cougar with corroded fuse box due to cowl leak and I am planning to use a fuse box like the one you linked as a replacement.

    Yep, my has some corrosion from a leak also.

    11 hours ago, Midlife said:

    Those replacement fuse clips from Mustang vendors are absolute cr@p.  They are made of the wrong material, plated with chrome rather than an anti-corrosion material, and are very brittle.  They are also almost impossible to spread apart to install a fuse. 

    Replacement clips can be found commercially in singles; they can be riveted to a steel plate for doubles.  Since I have innumerable fuse boxes from cannibalized harnesses, I simply select a good set of clips and splice the wires. 

    Thanks for the info on those being crap.

    Where can you find them individually? I've searched and can't seem to find them except in a kit.

  10. So my fuse box is in pretty bad shape. I was replacing a fuse the other day and one of the metal fuse terminal connectors broke off. I know I can buy these https://www.npdlink.com/product/repair-kit-fuse-box-terminal-8-fuse-terminals/102075 and replace the terminals, but if I'm going to do that why not replace the box with a modern fuse box? I really don't want to replace the wiring harness because wiring is not my strong point and it seems like a ton of headaches I'd get myself in to.

    So what options do I have. Can I do something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Holder-Indicator-Suitable-Automotive-Weiruixin/dp/B07BF2V57M/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=automotive+fuse+box&qid=1592654862&sr=8-4 or is there a better option?


  11. So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.

    Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.

    I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.

    Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.



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  12. On ‎4‎/‎14‎/‎2020 at 9:31 AM, Mach1 Driver said:


    The terminal block can be something this simple- in fact this is twice the size needed. You will only need the left two strips. Connect wire 904 to the bottom left screw, one end of the resistor to the top left screw, the other end of the resistor to the next screw over, and the wire that will go to "I" will connect to the bottom screw on that strip.


    Great, that helps me understand the resistor.

    Again, thanks for your help.


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