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Really?

aslanefe: Yeah, if you have the file that would be awesome. Whatever is easiest for you. They would then bolt in correct? Appreciate all the help guys. john

Thanks aslanefe and Kris: Kris in your pic it shows your modified roller with a slot to keep it from moving..correct? I would imagine that you built them a 'tad' bigger to compensate for wear on the originals? As i roll the window up it kind of jams and then i can easily rock the glass clockwise and it will crank up some more so there's definitely slop there. I'm going to pull that glass out again as i'm in the assembly stage and it's easy to do now with the panels not installed yet. Appreciate the responses guys...thanks. John

Anyone reproducing the rollers for the rear quarter glass on 69 70 convertibles...coupes are probably the same.? Thanks...John

Glad u got it figured out Rich. My suspicions were confirmed when i saw the tilt of the engine. Great stuff!

That's the tabs on the passenger side panel insert. Standard interior. The mach1 has a clock there.

I was going to mention that the engine looked tilted way down on the rear. When you level it out with the trans and crossmember you might not have that clearance problem. ..John

That looks good for sure TexasED.! ..John

Just installing a new ford tooling dash. Looking at the passenger side panel there are 2 tabs..one on each side along with of course the 3 screws across the top and 3 across the bottom. I can't recall what i did on my 69 but on the new replacement dash pad there is no where for the left side tab closest to the center to screw onto. On the right there is a small metal tab...no clip that is buried in the rubber/foam. Do all the replacement dashes come this way? Thanks...John

I've also used the stator terminal for years with success. Simple and effective. John

I've had my eye out for a 6R80 for my 47 Merc coupe preferably from a 2015 and up Mustang or F150 2WD .I'm thinking it has to do with obtaining the proper stand alone to control that trans. I could really use the shifter from a mustang or F150 as i certainly modify it to fit. I have an open chassis and floor with basically no interference and can build around it. So if anyone has any connections i'd certainly be interested and i can't wait to follow your posts Thanks..John

The owner of this car is asking for bluetooth and cd. So i think the din style is my only option. John

Yep..i hear ya. I told my wife that id rather rebuild an engine than do weatherstrip..lol. Thanks again...John

Just finishing up the 70 convert. Was wondering what the general consensus is as far as " original looking radios" go. The last 70 we did we installed the newer din style. It took some modifying but I did manage to cut/modify the factory bezel and reinforce it from the back and then repaint the whole thing. It blended right in . This time i'm thinking i'll look into the correct looking/fitting radios. I know some of them are crappy as there was one in a 68 that we had two years ago and it was terrible. Can't recall the make..might have been custom auto sound...maybe not. Your thoughts/experiences? thanks...John

Aslanefe: Finally getting back to you. I learned a few new cuss words installing these weatherstrips..lol but I got it done. As TexasED says the tape at increments is a very good idea. What i found out is to not to try to do too much at once. I fastened it at both ends...marked the door and weatherstrip at roughly 1foot intervals...then starting at the rear of the door i did the vertical strip in two steps and then the segments under the door. One has to be very careful not to tug on the weatherstrip as it will certainly want to stretch and misalign your screws on the front of the door. The lower corners were the toughest but in the end it worked out well. A few spots didn't take so i pulled the weatherstrip back, pinned it back with some good 3M body tape and then got in with some fresh glue using a soldering brush ( i bought a whole pack to do this..inexpensive) ...allowed it to cure a few minutes then pressed the weatherstrip back utilizing the tape again. After letting it sit for that evening and overnight , i finally shut the door. I warmed the weatherstrip..especially the ends..with a heat gun and this allowed the door to lock in further on the latch. I left them there. Thanks for all the help guys. Hopefully i can help someone out with other issues they're having with their stang. Best regards, John

Aslanfe.. yep..a few days won't hurt me to wait. Thanks John

Thanks for the response aslanefe: Are you saying you glued both sides of the 90 on the vertical pieces..seems hard to do as when i tried it one side pulled away while i tried holding it to the other side of the 90? unilec: yep.i wiped it down with acetone to remove that release agent. John

Will do...thanks. John So...the one pic shows where the weatherstrip sits..in that angled portion. The 2nd pic shows when i hold the flat side of the weatherstrip to the one side, the other side opens up. The 3rd pic shows when i hold the weatherstrip flat against the area by the lock the other side opens up. It's like the original weatherstrip might not have had a perfect 90 degree angle to the two flats that glue to the door. This is the original 70 door and clearly you can see that the angle where the weather strip goes is greater than 90 degrees..it's wider. Wondering if anyone has run into this. thanks..John

Working on this 70 convert and having issues with installing the door weatherstrip. The weatherstrip is a Carpenter product and looks nice enough. Issue is this: The weatherstrip has basically two sides that are at a 90 degree angle to each other where it contacts the door.. The problem is where it sits on the door , the door isn't a 90 degree angle..it's a much wider angle as one side 'leans back' more than the other. If you glue both sides of the weatherstrip then one side sticks and then pulls off while the other gets pressed and vise versa....had the vertical portion of the door done and had to remove it...remove the weatherstrip adhesive and now ready to put it back on again but was wondering if in fact i should just glue one side of the angle and not the other??? Anyone run into this? Why couldn't Ford make push in pins in their weatherstrip similar to GM and no issues. lol. Thanks...John

Thanks...

How about the steering wheel? thanks..John

Ok..keep me posted. Regards..John

Vic. I have a spare top mechanism here belong to a friend. I'm sure i can send you those bolts to get you over the hump and complete your top. You can send yours back if / when you locate them. If that works for you? Let me know... Regards..John

Looking great Northernstang. What rear disc setup did you use? John