Print Dad

Hello All, I was having trouble with the rimblow switch on my Mach 1. The horn would sound only by pressing at 6-8 O'clock area. Well I had my wife hold the horn switch in as I felt the horns. The pass side worked but the driver side didn't. I remembered the little screw which I think changes the pitch. I turned the screw and both horns sounded. I then realized that the rim blow works all the way around. I had made sure the ground was clean but the switch had limited ability to work. So bottom line, the horns work and the rimblow works all around. I offer this as perhaps a tip to others, the switch is like $100.00. Thanks to all who helped in my previous thread and I hope this helps someone. Print Dad:shifty:

Hello bjaygerber, This hobby can always use new mechanics. As stated it is not too hard to do. My advice: 1. - Get a good repair manuel like "Chilton's 2. - Take pictures before and as you go (to refer to) 3. - When pulling hoses, lines etc. label them with masking tape 4. - Use good tools. Proper tools for the job saves knuckles 5. - Search on the net for how to's As already advised drain the coolant. Use a bit of caution when putting the intake in place. You should add about 20 HP. Another tip....don't overcarb. Get a carb around 575 - 600 cfm. Summit.com and others have pretty fair deals unless you want stock Ford then I would check places like Mustangs Unlimited, Dallas Ford etc. etc. read all you can and just do it....Print Dad

Hello S code 69, I am really stupid and don't really understand what the switch is? All I remember on my old cars I had a switch that looked like contacts that completed a circuit when pressed. I don't know anything about the rimblow and how it is supposed to work. Is there a wire running around the rim under the rubber or something like that? I am just starting this so please bear with me. Also I am just an old back-yard wrencher who is trying to get the car back out after all the years. Any links, tips etc. would be very helpful. I saw a great article here: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_9908_classic_ford_mustang_steering_wheel_restoration/painting.html This tells how to restore a rimblow but only touches a bit on the horn. Thanks for your help and patience....... Print Dad

Well the strip is on. I saw the screw hole in the old rubber but couldn't find the screw. There was no screw hole on the new. I think I should glue it a bit even though it is in a channel, it seems to come away from the door stainless channel. I think I am OK on this.Thanks for all the help form lot's of people......Print Dad

Hello all, The weatherstrip issue is done.I think I should glue it but it is on. Now for new problem. Car is 70 Mach 1 - Rim Blow? steering wheel. The rubber that you squeze goes all around inner steering wheel. The problem...When I squeeze it only toots horn at about the & o'clock area. Where do I start and what do I check. I remember on my old cars there was a switch under the center cap but I don't know this one at all. Sorry for what mat seems like a simple task but I am trying to get the car on the road after 22 years in garage. I am close. Thanks again....Print Dad I now understand that the rubber holds the switch. Is it possible the inside of the rubber is just dirty. I am thinking there must be a wire that runs along inside and when you squeeze it the wires complete a circuit? Because mine works at 7 o'clock does that mean that there is not a dirty connection? Have a great and safe 4th everyone.

Hello mikem, Thanks a lot. I ordered the parts today from Mustangs U. I should get them in a few days I am sure I understand it all now. I thank you for your time, patience and information. I get a bit nervous when ripping things off the car. I like to be sure I understand the proper way to do things before I get into it. Just a little history on the car. I purchased the car back in 1973/4 as a Sunday cruiser. The car was in pretty good shape. I put it in the garage when our son was born in 1987 and it has been there since. I used to start the car but it got away from me and sat for 20 years with old gas. I replaced the carb, fuel pump etc and drained the tank. After all this I started the car and it ran but a few days later everything was gummed up. (Stupid me). I had bent a few pushrods etc.etc. I rebuitl the carb, installed a new tank, replace fuel pump and loosened valves *mystery oil" and got her running again. I checked compression and rebuilt the new Holley and did a complete tune-up. Anyway she is running and I took it out of the garage this past week-end. It was great to wash the car after all these years. The car looks good from about 40 feet but needs a new coat of paint. Lastly it is an original 70 Mach - but painted black. It has a 351 Clev with 3 speed stick and single exhaust. Kinda weird combo. Thanks and I will be using this forum alot............Print Dad.........Jim Now I need to do a few more things

Hello Pak, I was joking about the distraction. I was referring to your avitar as a joke. Thanks for the help and to all the members who helped as well. I ordered the parts today from MU and should have them in a few days. I am pretty sure this will get done. Thanks again......Print Dad...Jim

Hello mikem, Last night I pulled the plug you are talking about. It had 3 screws. Once removed I couldn't see the smaller screw that holds the WS but I will put on the old glasses and check tomorrow. If I understand this, I would remove the bottom screw and pull upwards out of the track that remains on the window. At the top of the window there appears to be a piece that acts as a stop and hangs on top of the window. So to install I pull downwards until the top piece sits on window and the screw should align. Please bear with me: can this be done just by removing the "end plug" without taking the inner panel off? What i mean is will I see the head of the screw facing me under the plug or does it face the outer handle. And lastly...do I need to cement the WS or is it held by the channel? I am sorry to be a pain but I just don't want to mess things up and my confidence level is a bit low lately........Thanks so much.....Jim

Hello Pakrat, Thanks for the info..did you write something? I was distracted (haha) The liquid soap idea is very good. Thanks.....Print Dad

Hello Chillininnh, Thanks for the reply but I think I may not have been clear in my question. There is a stainless strip on the back of the driver and pass doors. This strip holds a piece of weatherstrip that when the door is closed, it hits the rear qtr window. On this link it is item #4 http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/EM_CatalogSite/00224.htm They sell just the weatherstrip or the just the stainless strip that attaches to the door glass. I don't know how the WS is held to the strip and how to remove. I don't want to yank it off until I know how to replace it. By the way your car looks great.......Thanks......Print Dad

Hello, This is my first post so please be kind. I am working on my 70 Mach 1 after 22 years in the garage. I noticed the weatherstrip is falling apart on my driver door. Looking at Mustangsunlimited I see that i can buy just the rubber or the steel? piece that attaches to the window. I am trying to save a few bucks and purchase just the weatherstrip. I looked at the door and it looks like the WS is in a track or channel on the piece of metal. Does this just pull of and then cement? As mentioned, I am first time poster and not too bright so please try to explain what I should do. I did take a "V" shaped gasket on the edge of the door where the channel runs but I don't really see what I need to do. Thanks to all that take the time to read and reply........Print Dad