Print Dad

Hello ALL, This is another goofy thread - but I am stuck. So I think I am getting a new radiator - that is part one - I will keep the old as a backup SO my newest issue is regarding the shroud - - - I would like something that looks like a factory part. So here is my dilema - - - and some more info CURRENTLY - 70 Mach 1 - 351C -no air and standard trani The issue may be that I installed an 18 inch clutching fan - many years ago. So of you will know I have owned the car about 43 years. ISSUE 2 - TROUBLES I purchased a shroud - but it looks AWFUL at the top near the upper tank. In my other radiator post - several people sent pictures - - I will attach - what I think looks good and would like. The other picture is f the shroud that I purchased - the shroud is attached to the radiator which is out of the car. I had made a shroud and can use that but mywife wants to get rid of the non stock items. MY problem now is I don;t want to spend 75-100 for something that doesn't fit or look good. I know someone with a 24 inch radiator must have installed a 18 inch clutching fan. PLEASE _ I know everyone is busy but I sure would like to make some progress on this As a last note - -the car NEVER overheated this issue started after I started motor after winter sleep and noticed a leak at top of the core, FIGURES - -351C - outlet on driver side - - - 24 inch radiator - core is 16 by 24 inches and 2.5 thick at core - Fan is a 18 inch clutching Thanks - you can't imagine how tuff this has been I like the top of pix 1 and 2 - pix 3 is my shroud which looks awfull Sam

Hello Barnett468, I just looked inside the radiator - is has 3 rows back after - Thanks - - Sam

Hello - Thanks for helping this old fool. I actually have a few quesitons about this project. 1. - The radiator is at least 45 years old but I don't think original to the car I have had the car that long. I am torn between having it fixed or just getting a new one.The price is about the same $350.00 on the one hand I like the old metal - but then again I don't know if they would just recore it. When I started the car this year there was a small leak below the upper tank. What's you opinion? 2. - The shroud I bought a long time ago seems stupid to me - -it doesn't look like the pictures you guys posted - - it doesn't look good when put next to the radiator - I looks like the top tank of the radiator should be bulged out in spots or somehting 3. - Now I am thinking of getting another shroud for 24 inch radiator but do you think large clutching fan would fit inside? I hate to blow another $80.00 and listen to the boss (wife) LOL I sure appreciate your time and efforts Sam - - be well be safe

Hello ALL, Sorry for the delayed response - but things are hectic here - my wife is a wreck A looked at the shroud - it i weird. I bought is from CJ - their part number is DOZZ- 8146 - A THere is another issue I forgot to mention - I put on a clutching fan that is 18" When I look at the shroud it also looks like the fan opening is NOT in the center of the shroud - It looks like the opening is off to the passengers side about 2 inches I hope I can attach a few pixs - I took them on my Iphone and they aren't on my computer yet Now I see my pictures from the phone are not showing up - even though they are on the phone don't know why another issue.. Yes Jay = see how the top of your shroud goes straight across - mine is NOTHING like that The thing I hav e is NOT good - I gotta figure how to get my pixs - -I need a youngin LOL BEar with me Sam Now not sure how to show pix from my computer I got it - - see when I put the top of the shroud against the radiator and hold in place with 2 screws it some up to the neck of the tank and see the spaces - -it is not straight across.I sure hope you guys can understand. The first pix show the part number from CJ - -when I went to their sight and search for that number it doesn't appear I am gettin in deep here - NOthing ever simple PLease bear with me - Sam

Hello ALL, Once again I turn to the PROs for some help. This may not seem like a tuff question - but it is kinda important to me. So here goes - I am ding some changes on the GG Mach - 351C I am taking the radiator out to replace and removing some of the chrome from the motor. Please bear with me. The motor currently has a stainless shroud I had made - and braided hoses. I am going back to stock looking hoses and want to change the shroud -to a stock look. I have a 24 inch shroud that I bought years ago from MU - the weird thing is when I hold it up to the existing radiator - the "plastic" shroud come about half way up the top tank - - I was thinking it should only go as high as the 'fin" part of the radiator - in other words below the top tank. I think it looks weird. So what I was hoping is someone would have a part number or a picture of the top of their stock shroud. The radiator is a 3 row - 24 by 16 by 2.25 inches - I think a big block radiator and I am pretty sure it wasn't the original radiator- - So if someone had a pix of their shroud - it would help me a lot. I was hoping a picture standing in from of the dover fender looking at the top of the tank or something Once again - this my seem like a stupid question - but I am stuck Be well - be safe follow the guidelines and hang in there - - - Be well Sam

Hello ALL, Thanks for all the helpful information. Yes - this is a deluxe interior. I have been so dang busy and not much computer time - sorry. It stinks getting old LOL - I have had the radio out at least a dozen times - but couldn't remember if I had to lift the dash pad. I have changed the sports lamp switch, front speaker heck I even did the heater core over the year Seems like my memory isn't the same -maybe if I just get out there and start working. I plan to contact Danno thanks all. I am getting ready to workon the car again -but the wife needs another knee replacement in 2 weeks dang WEll I will keep you all up to date - THanks once again If I can help please give a shout sam

Hello ALL, Happy New year to all. So I am sorry haven't been on in quite some time. I have 3 questions that may be simple yet complicated This is for our 70 Mach and I have done a LOT of these thigs but forget some simple thigs Here goes - 1. - Can I remove the radio without removing the dash pad - -and how do I get usb or something to bring the radio up to date. The problem is I want to play our 8 tracks and my wife wants her Ipod. I would be glad to buy a radio that has these capabilities- -any ideas or thoughts 2. - How are the TMI door panels - or is there a better brand - suggestions on where to buy 3. - Tail lIght bezels - same thing - who makes and sells good quality - I see some cheap at CJ's - but I don't want fitment issues - -the car was painted and the bezels look a bit crappy. It is has been some time since I replaced the dash pad but have done it about 15 times over the years Well thats it for now - Thanks to all who read and offer suggestions Be well -- HAPPY NEW YEAR - -Sam

Hello Big Duke6 I have been running fords since the mid 60's and NEVER had much luck with CHampion plugs in a Ford. I think a good starting point for the gap is 35 and then you can adjust after running the motor and reading the plugs. There are a lot of charts that will show the color of the porcelain after running. I think 35 is a good starting gap - make sure the plug wires are run to the correct plug. You would be surprised how well the motor may seem to run with 2 wires crossed Best of LUck - Sam

Hello FrankN, Yes you can find the channels and parts at most of the big Mustang suppliers like CJ Pony, MUstangs unlimited etc Take a look at this link. I replaced mine about 2 years ago - and not quite certain but about 90% sure there is a small screw located at the bottom of the stainless - zoom on the picture - -it helps hold the stainless. When I installed mine I purchased some glue that was recommended - -I think a good silicone would work just fine. I am pretty certain I put only a few drops of silicone/glue in the channel - -not much at all. I would think you will find the trim in the door - -but at least you know you can purchase it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/fb-ss-w-s-channel-kit-stainless-window-channels-and-w-strips-1969-1970/p/DWCK/ Good luck - -Print Dad - Sam

Hello Red Sportsroof Thanks for the follow up idea. It seems as though my issue is solved for now - I have not driven the car since attaching the return spring - -been very hot and humid here. I do need to take the car for an inspection this month so I gotta get it out soon Thanks again - -Sam

Hello Ron, I think people would have a few questions for you mainly what type of brakes do you have power or no power. I think you must determine if the brake pedal is too low or the clutch pedal is too high. I think I would be concerned adding a stop - -you may remove the "free-play" in the clutch. This would cause to throwout bearing to stay in contact with the pressure plate forks. This will wear out your throwout bearing So I am thinking perhaps you could adjust the clutch pedal linkage to lower the pedal or you could lengthen the rod that goes to the master cylinder on the brake pedal/ Others far wiser than I will post - -but for now - please let us know about your bake set-up then I and others will perhaps have more ideas Best of Luck - -Sam Printdad

Hello all, Wanted to post a follow up. The springs finally arrived and I replaced the top spring from the firewall to the Z-bar. This was the spring that was missing on our car. The pedal returns perfect now - -I can mark this one done. Thanks to all for the advice and links - - it helped a lot. In the future I will replace the z-bar bushings and I am thinking of replacing the clutch and all the parts perhaps in the winter Thanks so much - -great help - - - - Sam

Hello guys, I can't wait to get the spring and see if this does the trick. It is ODD - -I am certain the spring has not been there for years. I do now use anti-seize on a lot of things and love getting my fingers silver LOL That dang stuff spreads fast LOL I also use PB Blaster for penetrating and sometimes a liquid wrench. It worked when I was trying to loosen the nut on the top of the steering box (sector shaft). Seems when I have an issue with the Mach - -I have been tending to overthink the issue. When I was young I would just take things apart and fix without thinking too much. Maybe this comes with age - but at once time I could wrench pretty well. I gotta get the Mach out to s few shows and drives - -the car deserves to be driven. I will post as soon as I get the spring - -Thanks once again Sam

Hello Ridge Runner, I gotta say THANKS again - -this is a great place to find solid HELP. Our car was made in Metuchen - -but I am certain that I have located the spot to attach the spring. I am sure hoping that this will help - -would be nice and easy. I have had this car about 41 years and I can't remember even seeing a spring from the z-bar to firewall. WE wil see what happens but I am thinking that this should help. As it stands now the pedal returns about 65% of the time - -with the help of the spring I am thinking it should be 100% While I have you here - -I should ask another somewhat related question. I bought the bushing kit for the Z=bar - but have hesitated to install it. The main reason I am nervous and hesitant is I am afraid of breaking the bolt that holds the bracket for the z-bar on the frame rail. The end on the motor should be pretty easy. Any tips or tricks if I do go to install the bushings this winter? LAStly - -I want to wish you a happy Birthday - I know it is early but at least I get to be one of the first to wish you a happy birthday. I turned 67 a few weeks ago so you gotta go a little to catch me LOL Thanks so much - -Sam

Ridge Runner - -yes yes yes - -that is the spot it attaches Thanks -- -Sam

Hello 1969Mach1 and Ridge runner, PLease read this all I have a LOT to say. I looked at my SHOP MANUAL and was getting a bit confused. I see a spring #7523 that goes from the z-bar to the firewall but it doesn't show where on the firewall. Then I look at the next page and it looks like the same number spring going to the fork - -I KNOW this is wrong. I am trying to show you guys that I am trying to research this and fix it -not just ask you guys to do the research I would like to comment to both responders 1969Mach - -Thanks I ordered both springs just now. I understand about the spring from the fork to the Zbar. Last year this spring broke and the rod fell down - -I thought I blew the clutch LOL Ridge Runner - -yes yes yes - -that is the spring that is missing on my car. I don't think it has been there for many years. As mentioned - -I ordered it. I located the "bracket" on our car and it is in a little different position but in the same area. Our "bracket" looks a little lower - -but it is under the master cylinder and to the right slightly. I think we will be fine I also wanted to say THANKS - -for the GREAT pictures- -they were fantastic. It took a bit to find the bracket - -but I did I am sure hoping this will help the pedal return. Thinking about it - it should I HOPE I ordered express shipping so I should have the spring in a day or two - -looking forward to trying it I can't tell you both how much I appreciate your help, wisdom, pictures, links etc I sure wish I would help you both someday Thanks - - -Sam

Hello friends, I was looking at a few sources - -this is what they call the clutch return spring but it looks like the large spring under the dash - - I was thinking the spring as move like the spring that runs from the lower zbar to the fork Seems MU has no online catalogue like they did for years. Am I correct that this is not my missing spring? Thanks again - -sam

Hello all First - thanks for the help and advice. I plan to work on the car Wednesday or Thursday - - seems I also have a sticky brake up front. The car has been sitting a LOT - -only out once this year As far as the springs - - -I am positive there is the assist spring up under the dash Last year I replaced the spring between the -bar and the fork - the old one broke and the rod fell out. I am pretty certain I only have those 2 springs - - I will look closer The other spring (goes between upper level on the z-bar and firewall is not there I am almost certain. If I recall I looked last year and don't see a hole in the z-bar and NO bracket on the firewall that it would attach to. It sure would help if I could see a picture of where the bracket is located on the firewall. I think I will look at MU or CJ and see is I can find the parts and then try to figure out where they attach. I know you guys are right - -BUT I am pretty certain my car is missing a spring and a bracket and has been for a long long time. I was thinking the clutch is going but then again - -if I am driving slow in first and punch it it will chirp the tire - -seems like no clutch slippage. The clutch seems to be grabbing pretty high on the pedal. ON my 65 Custom - -the rod between the z-bar and fork was adjustable - -not sure mine is. I really need to look at things closer It sure would be great if all I had to do was install a spring and perhaps a bracket If someone know the part numbers I will order immediately Thanks at least I have hope I can drive the car next month before the winter Sam Thanks so much guys I sure need the help. Seems the mojo is going since I retired.

Hello 69Mach1, As always Thanks- -I should have given a tiny bit more info. If I push the clutch pedal down to where i assume the throw out bearing is hitting the pressure plate, the pedal stays there. It feels like the issue' is in the "free play" are of the pedal travel. I have not pulled the linkage from the Z-bar or anything at this point Took the car out and at times the pedal wants to hang You are right - -the dang brake switch took me almost as long as the heater core replacement LOL When I did get the brake light switch in - -it went in in about 4 minutes - -but too about 50 tries - -LOL Thanks again - -I think we will take the car out soon and see if it is still happening. Seems as though the older I get the less umph I have -when I was young I woud just pull the trani and chek EVERYTHING - -oh well - -I guess that is part of getting older LOL Thanks again - -be well - -Sam

Hello all, The car is a 70 Mach - -351C - -3 speed stick. The issue is the clutch pedal come up but sometimes get stuck. The pedal returns to release the clutch but more often the pedal is sticking about 2 inches down from the top of the stroke, The clutch seems to be adjusted good - and I am thinking this issue could be related to the large spring under the dash (on the pedal) The return spring on the ZBar is new So I have several questions if it is the bushing on the pedal- - I have read that many are using roller bushings instead of the nylon My questions - - 1. - Does it sound as though the issue could be the bushing? 2. - How hard is it to replace the bushing- -any step by steps on this. Keep in mind it took me hours to change the dang brake light switch This winter I plan to replace the z-bar bushings but the clutch pedal seems to return great but not all the way. I am not certain but i don't think my car has a return going from the z-bar to the firewall - -I don't think there is a spot for it. Any help greatly appreciated I am thinking God is telling me it is time to sell the car after 41 years - - just not sure I am ready Only had it once this year. Anyway - -I shoud mention I tried some white lithium up on the pedal/spring area - the pedal returns all the way about half the time Thanks - -Print Dad - -Sam

Hello all, Just want to say I think the best solution is change the fuel pump. I am not a big fan of the regulators - -especially the cheap models Something is wrong with the pump = =change it or I fear you will have other issues in the future Just thoughts from the old guy- -Print dad -Sam

Great looking and sounding car. A job well done - -enjoy. Yes there will be other things you will want to do but for now - enjoy a GREAT looking ride Print Dad

Hello all, I just wanted to post a little reply in case others ever have to do this on a 99-04? Mustang. The cable is in - about 40 minutes work The cable replacement is SIMPLE Everything is done UNDER the car. No need to get into the console. There are 6 attaching points - - I bought a FORD replacement cable. There is a "slider" on one end of the cable that attaches to the trani. Then there is a plastic bracket that is part of the cable - -remove the old square mounting and insert into the metal bracket on car. The next two attaching points are built into the cable - -they just unscrew and remove the old - attach new The one tricky part is near where the cable attaches to the shifter mechanisms I mention mechanisms - because it is part of the shifter but under the car. The end that attaches to the trani - -just pry off - -like a donut Jyust before that attachment is a "yellow plastic clip" the must be removed and re used. Remove that clip b y prying it off old cable- - install in same spot on new cable - -mount on new cable - install and then it is in. VERY simple - -I searched for hours trying to gfind info on this - -none around trust me It is done - -hope it helps someone if the future Sam

Hello Midlife, I wish we had some more "identify this part" questions. I think I can identify a battery - -so I may get one. I am pxxssed today. Bought a shift cable for my son's car and can't figure out how to install it- - now the car won't crank This stinks - -I should just stick to watering the flowers sam

Hello MAC390, It may be hard to some to understand but any animal lover sure gets it. I lost my Cocker Spaniel after 17 years - -I was never able to get another dog after his passing. Animals really do understand all our emotions and feelings. They are a real part of the family. Yours was a great looking dog - -you will miss him but always keep the great memories. Perhaps in time we will both get another "friend". They of course will be different and NOT a replacement I honestly feel your pain - - Be well - - Sam aka Print Dad