rmarks

Have you checked with Midlife or West Coast Classic Cougar? WCCC has used and repro wiring harnesses.

When I converted to bolt in on my 69 vert I had purchase reproduction 70 vert glass as the 69 and 70 are different and coupe and convert quarter glass is different. I had a difficult time finding used 70 vert quarter windows so I bought new repros. They are even date coded.

Yes, a 69 vert. Thanks for the tip. I'll give your suggestion a try this weekend.

Thanks Hux. Mine is a convertible with only one spacer.

From a Mustang II maybe?

Good one Midlife ... weight is not the problem : ) and the seat is all the way back. I'll give the extension a try first as I'm not fond of the aftermarket tilt wheel and the tilt-a-way is cost prohibitive.

Besides lowering the seat pan or going with a smaller diameter aftermarket steering wheel, is there a way to get more clearance (e.g., raising the steering wheel) to get more clearance between the seat and steering wheel? I find it difficult for me to slide in and out of the driver's seat when entering/exiting the car.

Thanks for the informative posts. A couple more questions. Are A/C cars supposed to have a fan clutch? My fan does not have one. Is one recommended? Also, has anyone fabricated a new single bracket to avoid having to install the added bracket from Sanden kit on top of the original bracket?

I mean standard cheap looking bolts that don't fit the original-style automotive nuts and bolts. Here's the hardware from a Sanden replacement kit:

Gents, Thanks for the information. I appreciate each of the posters' experiences and recommendations, which is what I was hoping for -- some food for thought in making my decision. This is not an inexpensive proposition and I that's why I appreciate the insights and opinions. I like originality, but then again driveability and comfort too. It will be awhile before I can invest in a restoration so I may go with the Sanden kit and keep all the original components in case I want to revert back to original at a later time. The one thing I don't like about the Sanden kits is the hardware store type hardware that seems out of place. Have any of you used automotive style hardware? From where? 69ShelbyGT350H I really like your set up with the non gloss black look. Where did you get your kit from. Also, thanks for the articles. Thanks again guys! Rich

I have an original A/C car with all the equipment still in place, but the A/C has not worked in the 14 years I have had the car. With the TX heat getting to me, it's time to correct that. I know the compressor clutch is shot, and was wondering what all I should replace (besides seals) to get it back in operation with R134? I did replace the A/C coil when I replaced the heater core a few years ago. Or, should I just replace it with a Sanden kit? It seems the old A/C equipment is hard to come by now (either out of stock, no longer in stock, or send in for rebuild), even through the likes of Classic Auto Air. Thoughts? If I did stick with OEM, any recommendations on where to find the replacement parts?

I'm partial to originality, but if your are not, the cherry red is a nice color.

I noticed the power steering steering slave control nut (a castle nut on the 90 degree fitting) on my 69 Mustang with factory power steering did not have a cotter pin securing the nut. When I tightened the nut down as far as it would go the nut was to tall to get a cotter pin in it. When looking at a replacement slave control, I noticed the castle nut didn't appear to have a cotter pin either. What is the proper hardware to secure the slave control...just a castle nut with no cotter pin, a castle nut with cotter pin, or some other nut?

How may teeth are on a speedo gear for a 4 speed wide-ratio tranny, 18, 19?

The choke was grounded. I disconnected the ground wire to see if I could find a better ground and the test light showed power to the choke + wire (not as bright as when + wire disconnected and tested unconnected). Connected ground again and light went out. Is it a bad choke? or ?

Okay, so I found a source wire to splice into that is only powered on with the ignition on, but I have a question. Using a test light, I get power to the + choke wire, but only when it's disconnected from the automatic choke. If I have it hooked up to the choke, no light. Is that normal? Am I missing someting?

Alright, I need a clarification/recommendation please. I have a tach car and it's difficult to attach the power wire to the STA on the alternator as there is a the rubber piece that surrounds the terminal (a one piece rubber piece that is part of the harness that covers three terminals)...is this even the right connection point for a tach car? (confusing above). If supposed to connect to a wire, how do you recommend doing so? Any pics?

I've heard different inputs on that.

I've heard different inputs on that.

Looking for the correct 70 (not 69) quarter window glass for a convertible.

Would the width of the 70 vert glass be around 10 3/4" then? I found someone with a set around 11 1/2" which I think are 69s.

I'm swapping my glue in glass for bolt in and found that the 69 and 70 rear quarter glass is different and coupe and convertible glass are different too. I bought a set off ebay that said were 70 convertible but look to wide like the 69 or a coupe. Can someone with a 70 vert measure the width across the quarter glass from the widest part (pointy edge).

Is it normal if off slightly upshifting or down shifting into 2nd gear that it lock out and have to come to a complete stop and re-shift before it goes into gear properly? I can't get it into any gear unless I stop the car. I have no problem with the other gears. If not normal, does the shifter need an adjustment or rebuild, or is it a tranny issue?

Looks great. Good to see you working on it again. Was wondering how it was coming along.

Where did you get the honeycomb hood scoop insert, hadn't seen that before?