zach69grande

You are in luck, both bow ties are the same part number; so as you already have one bow tie, you can use that to create your model.
Below are some pictures; a few of them are blurry but they should give you enough to create a non-dimensioned drawing. Last 2 pictures are with the spacer attached to top trim (2 spacers on top trim, one on each end).

Does this picture help?

Zach, nothing special for the plastic pieces (the ones you call bow-tie shaped nut inserts I think) that are on side and top trim. They are just spacers, sheet metal screws goes through them and fasten the trim piece to window surround (screw head stay on the outside so they are visible on top of the trim). So when you tighten the screw, the trim does not cave in.
As you are 3D capable and 3D print of those parts will work good for this application, how about this; you give me a few days, I will take a few detailed pictures of the plastic spacers on side and top trim and post them. Then you create some non-dimensional drawings from those photos and mark the dimensions you want (and the dimensions I would think you may need for the CAD model); and I get those dimensions for you from the plastic pieces. Will that work for you? 

I ordered my next round of parts from CJ Pony, cleaned up the rest of the steering linkage (torque, grease, cotter pins), and i received and admired the filler neck from stangs-R-me 
I'm hoping this weekend to fill the power steering set up and test it out, fire up the motor for a bit, install the clutch pedal and steering column, and start looking at pulling the C4. 
 

Finally finished up the brake system. New booster, pedal bushings, master cylinder, stainless lines, prop valve, everything bled... then I installed my steering valve, cylinder, and all the goods up front. I need to torque everything, grease all the things, put the cotter pins in.. Hopefully that gets done this week.
next i need to torque everything in the suspension once its back on the ground. 
then its out with the C4 and in with the T5. 
 

SOLD! Well, not yet.. .look for an email soon though! I'll definitely be contacting you for one. I just put the tank back in ran lines etc and was digging up the old threads on the modification. I'll gladly hand over some $$ to save me the labor on this one. 
Nice work! The last time I filled the tank some guy was chatting me up about the car....total splash out. embarrassing.  

I've done a fare bit of sheet metal cutting in the last few months and found an air powered nibler invaluable. Two things. Buy a good one and you need a decent compressor that won't run out of puff every 10 seconds. This was a good excuse to buy a new compressor as well. Sometimes I need to justify my spending and an excel spreadsheet won't always work.

You have to be careful ,a hole saw and a cutoff wheel can cause enough heat to cause the opening edges to warp ,that is why i use a body saw on all sheet metal cutting

I've always cut four times then measure.  No wonder I have issues!

HA. yes! I can think of more than one project where unfortunately i needed to use just a slightly larger washer or trim piece than planned....

Hi,
I have an aftermarket hood with a mach style scoop mounted. Holes were not cut for signals, but I have the template. I've decided I would rather have a shaker set up.
I have the scoop grill, 302 emblems too.
Located in Greensburg pa. $300 or best offer. I all send pics if interested.

Hi,
I have an aftermarket hood with a mach style scoop mounted. Holes were not cut for signals, but I have the template. I've decided I would rather have a shaker set up.
I have the scoop grill, 302 emblems too.
Located in Greensburg pa. $300 or best offer. I all send pics if interested.

still got it. 
I'll take less! :)

Hi,
I have an aftermarket hood with a mach style scoop mounted. Holes were not cut for signals, but I have the template. I've decided I would rather have a shaker set up.
I have the scoop grill, 302 emblems too.
Located in Greensburg pa. $300 or best offer. I all send pics if interested.

Hi,
I have an aftermarket hood with a mach style scoop mounted. Holes were not cut for signals, but I have the template. I've decided I would rather have a shaker set up.
I have the scoop grill, 302 emblems too.
Located in Greensburg pa. $300 or best offer. I all send pics if interested.

Hello,
So I found a guy locally that's offering a T5, bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, clutch pedal and shifter for $850
It was in another guy's 69 coupe behind a 351. That dude is swapping out for a big block and wants something stronger than the T5. 
Sounds like a good deal to me, it's at a local shop of dudes that do nothing but build muscle cars and specifically mustangs. 
Looking on Ebay - i see some rebuilt trannies for less - but this one is claimed to have been rebuilt and only driven for about three summers with less than 20K on the tranny. 
 
I haven't gone to look at it yet... but I'm leaning pretty hard toward picking it up because I want to do the swap in my coupe. 
 
How does that sound for a package deal? 
What specifically should I peak at?
Any other places I should look to source a rebuilt T5 for a swap? Ebay, known websites, etc?
 
thanks for the insight!
Z

What I did for the Bluetooth  option on the radios is to leave everything appearing stock. The radio turns on in a normal AM/FM radio. But you turn the radio off and back on real quick with the volume knob, and it switches to be a Bluetooth receiver.  The volume, balance, tone, and fader are all controlled just the way they are as a radio.  If you want the radio back, you just turn it off and on again, and you have your normal radio again.
 
I also do can do a seperate MP3 audio cable from the radio that you plug into the headphone output from an MP3 or CD player.
 
The sound quality on the factory radios from the 70s is typically very good, as long as you use a small external amplifier.    I can do this to your radio, or one that I have. I do not do this as a business, I do not make that much money for the time I put into it. I am just helping out those who might want it.