zach69grande

Anyone had their 'stang soda blasted? Know anyone that has? I just spent a week using paint stripper on a guitar.. the thought of working my pace on a whole car with stripper and scrapers... yikes.. Watched some YouTube videos, found some local mobile soda blasters.. curious if anyone here has any first hand experience? cheers Z

I've got the interior of the Mustang pulled out, down to the bare floors. I'm going to start wire brushing and all that jazz... Right now I have the stock C4 auto and an open 2.73 with a mildly modified 302. I love driving stick, but I've had some older vehicles with stick - and they didn't compare to a modern system, longer throws, stiff clutches.. I don't drive the Mustang much, I probably will drive it more once it's all done, the auto is pretty smooth and not at all lame to drive.. Those of you that have done the swap - what are your thoughts? how do the kits work out? what helped you make the decision? are you glad you did? Is it worth it if I don't swap out the gearing? cheers Z

had the same problem when I did mine - same cause as above - i plugged into a high beam - swapped to the low beam connection, mine happens to be passenger side, everything works fine.

I apologize for the thread-jack - but since it's on the same topic... John, I'm not sure about the OP - but I'd love a little better explanation if it's something you feel you could put down - this is something that I've had a problem with too that the search function didn't turn up what I felt was a clear enough answer. (it's probably out there but maybe I just couldn't find what I was looking for) I did mine per your steps above - but then my shifter indicators don't quite line up with the proper positions. also - won't start in Park but only in Neutral. I suspect that's the NS switch adjustment above that I haven't done, but I wanted to get everything to line up properly before I noodled with that. I suspect part of my problem to be an improper installation where the rod connects to the shifter itself, or the position of the shifter itself - the PO had an interesting conglomeration of nuts and bailing wire - I don't suppose you have a picture of the proper parts in order do you? I think I found a set in one of the catalogs but haven't gotten to that yet.. is there a proper adjustment/angle for the shifter arm in relation to the transmission linkage to get everything dialed in correctly? it's been a mild annoyance since I bought the car but the list of other things to attend to has always kept this one on a back burner

how are your throttle return springs? are you using one, two? any chance they're too close to each other or some other linkage and got bound up together while the throttle was open and wouldn't retract? Otherwise Fordrevhead is right on - inspect all the moving parts, clean and lube

Here's a page I found of nothing but 69 mustang pics takes a while to load them all enjoy http://www.flickriver.com/groups/69mustang/pool/interesting/

how long has it been sitting like that out in the open? where are you located? some more pics would help but just guessing that it's been gutted and picked at and sitting outside... yeah.. scrap value or there about. how are the frame rails? has anything been done to it? i've seen people start with worse, but they had a fully supplied shop and the tools and talent to do it right. also the $$.

I haven't decided yet - first I'll need to stop the leak in the C4 tail shaft - I'm debating between some degreasers I've read about.. some local dudes have said they used Kerosene soaking and a pressure washer to get their underbodies cleaned

LilMike - which gauges did you order? I love the silver centers.. great looking gauges ...edit: ok I see you mentioned the 'spun centers' cool. so how about wiring? i assume you no longer need the printed circuit board - but how easy is it to connect to the original harness? is it all OEM plugs?

In the spring I'm hoping to start on the under body - clean it paint it, new suspension, brakes and lines. What kind of gear do you guys have in garages without lifts? I'm looking specifically for recommendations for high lift jacks, brake fluid change kits...spring compressors.. I have a small air compressor and some air tools, jack stands, ramps, ... any other tools I should think about to make things easier? since I'm going to be crawling around under this thing for a few months?

NICE LIST! i've got notes scribbled for a similar first cruise list. i keep going back and forth with rock and blues.. I'll probably just hook up the MP3 player and hit shuffle and nail the skinny pedal.. My only suggestion would be to swap Spoon Man for something of Soundgarden's "BadMotorFinger" album...I dont know why but every time I hear a song from that album it makes me think of the 'stang..

Powershift - in your 70 Mach thread - that first pic when you first got the car, are any mods done to fit the tires/wheels etc? My car is low now, suspension is worn, I'm thinking of getting factory replacement suspension components, rebuilding everything and going with tire/wheel combo similar to yours..your first pics look like what I want my end goal to be.

sweet! I wondered if you were from that thread - didn't get a chance to look.

Powershift - do you have a gallery of finished parts you've done this process to?

Right now mine are all bare metal from peeling off the wood grain. I may just hit it with a wire wheel or some sort of brush and clear coat it.. Jwscarab - if you find any other pictures maybe we should start a thread in the picture forum or something for ideas?

I ran a little bit of black RTV around the dash lights and gauges of my old CJ to keep squeaks, rattles, and light emission to a minimum. I let it cure before assembly so it became sort of like a gasket. I suppose you could let some skin up on one surface or the other on the Mustang dash plates as well to act as an isolator

my edelbrock 1406 starts perfectly, hot or cold, 1st time every time and it's been on there with the current set up for 3+ years... and carbs are so cheap and easy to clean and rebuild.. I know FI has a lot of pros... but man I'd like to be able to do it for less. $2300 will buy A. Lot. of. Parts. or labor..

how's the passenger fender? any chance you've got the oem air cleaner snorkle?

my 69 coupe runs/stops great with disc/drum. I redid the drums last year, I plan on going through the front this year - I have no intentions of upgrading but if I do switch to the black 17" bullit rims that I like... the drums might look kinda funny behind them. not funny enough to spend the $$ there when the rest of the car needs so much

ugh.. that pic stinks too... stupid camera...er..phone... engine bay is lookin sharp. now I can cruise for another month then park it and start on the front brakes (rears are done), fuel lines, brake lines, painting the under body, transmission rear seal, Ujoints... suspension... good grief..

here's a slightly better shot... also without my clean up rag...

Not a great pic, but detailed the block and the engine compartment.. little steps.. Spent most of the summer working on the garage so I'll have a place to work. Gathered up a lot of parts..

zip loc baggies, sharpie markers, masking tape for labeling, digital camera lots of pictures and organized storage on your computer, and some see through plastic tubs have really helped me keep things organized. Even if i'm not going to reuse the hardware - I keep it with the part for orientation and replacement purposes when it goes back together.

Hey gang - somewhere sometime in the past forty-some years my mustang got a little cozy with something along the passenger side - anyone have an OEM fender and Door they might like to unload? I live in Greensburg PA frequent Marietta Ohio, Warren Ohio and points between cheers Z

nice! they sell chrome letters at the auto parts stores - how close are they in font to those I wonder... you could put Pakrat on all your vehicles... or other creative words that you need additional letters for. there's a guy locally with a suped up Mistubishi with "Devil" spelled in those letters across the back.