clay37355

WTB Ford 9inch 9 Inch 9in Rear End Housing to fit a 69 stang and axles. I already have the center section. Can be 28 or 31 spline. I have spider gears for both. prefer txt or call to 931 450 2597 or email at manchesterpowersports@yahoo.com

Guys i think thats what it is . Its getting worse where ive been driving it back and forth. On the last trip it even squealed and then popped. ive had two other people ride with me and they said it sounded like it was coming out the exhaust.. ill replace it tomorrow and maybe get lucky

I checked the plugs and all looked good. Swaped all the plug wires from passenger side to drivers side. Still popping...May sound crazy,,,, Ive done everything i know to do. I checked under the rear of the car to make sure the exhaust wasnt loose and hitting something. I noticed alot of diff fluid on my rear wheel. Jacked the car up and see that my passenger side rear wheel bearing is shot... Am i crazy? could the popping im hearing be from the wheel bearing and not out the exhaust?? Guess that may explain why i only hear it when the car is moving..

Well. I went through and checked my valve lash. I did find a few exhaust rockers a little tight so i reset them all. Took it for a spin and its still doing it..... I checked the firing order and everything is good there.. Im going to check the plugs. I may tighten the gap a little and see if it helps any too. Im running .050 now , but have ran that for a long time without the popping. Im hoping its not a burnt valve

Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to check the plug wires and firing order tomorrow. Will also check the rocker clearance. The engine hasn't been in the car too long, Ive probably only put 2 or 3 thousand miles on it. Odometer doesn't work. It has a solid roller cam with scorpion roller rockers. Ive done one adjustment on the rockers earlier before the popping and have probably put 1000 mi on the car after the valve adjustment without the popping. Thanks again guys and ill re post tomorrow

Ive got a strange popping out of the exhaust. It doesnt do it while its idleing. I can rev it up in neutral and it never does it. it only does it when im going down the road. It will do it while cruising, under acceleration , and deceleration. Any ideas? I already replaced the plugs. Its almost like it will only do it when the car is moving. It sounds to me like its only coming out of the passenger side pipe. I was driving it tonight and unplugged plug wires one at a time to see if i could get the popping to stop. It didnt though. Kept popping out the one side no matter which wire was unplugged.Motor is 351w 393 stroker , MSD Box and dist. Demon 825 Carb. thanks for any help or ideas

Hello,,,, Will the spindles off a 69 Ford Ranchero fit the 69 mustang fastback. I found a complete set of disk brakes locally and want to buy them , if they will fit.

I seem to be leaking some oil out of the front main seal. I bought a new Race Demon carb. The new carb didn't have the vacuum ports. I drilled the intake and installed a fitting to hook up my modulator for the c4 transmission. I was planning on just running Breathers on the valve covers and no pcv. When I do this though I have the leak. I assume the motor is building up too much crankcase pressure and pushing oil out of the front seal?? Am i going to have to drill another port in the intake? I could use the knockouts on the air cleaner and run the valve cover breather to that, but I am afraid that it will not create enough vacuum to stop the leak. Also, to my thinking, I really would rather not have the contaminated air going down through the carb. Anyone else run into this before? The motor is 351w based 393 stroker.

On a whim today I bought a 9in rear end in hopes of putting it in my 69. The guy said it came out of a 78 F150. It looked and turned good. He told me it was the big bearing and 31 spline. Also when i turn one hub the other one turns the same direction. I believe that means that it is a limited slip??? It was just $100 so i thought why not. I have not measured it yet , but when i got home I started looking up the length. I found a chart that said the 78 F150 trucks were 65.25 wide. I guess that's what i get for buying something without researching it. Can this buy be salvaged? Any Idea of how much it costs to have the rear ends narrowed? The rear also has the bigger wheel bolt pattern. I believe its 5 x5.5. I was planning on using Wheel adapters. But now that I have to get it cut down , Should I go ahead and buy the proper wheel bolt pattern axles and have them cut to fit the housing? I also assume I am going to have to move the spring perches. Should I sink the money into this one or look around for a better fitting 9in?

LSG: I run a MSD dist. With a MSD 6al box. Wires are new Jacobs. I Live in Middle Tennessee We do not have E85 around that i know of , but i will look around.Most pumps around here are 10% ethanol. The MSD 6al box is old, 12+ years , And I will probably replace it first because of the age. 6T9Mach1: The plugs are not carbon fouled that i can tell. They are more of a "wet black" look. Not sooty at all. I have a A/F meter that uses a Wide Band O2 sensor to check the A/F Ratio and it reads good. But I do not have an O2 bung on the header so I just rear it at the exhaust tip, so im sure it is off a little. I did hook a compression tester up today and cranked it over a few times and only got 150 psi. So the cam may be bleeding off more than i thought or the ratio is a little lower than the 11.65 Thanks again for all the help, GREAT site and even better people

I am running a solid roller cam , I can not find the cam card to get the specs. But from what i remember it was .615 lift and 280 or 290 degrees in duration. I cant remember what the lobe separation was. I am having problems with fouling plugs. I have checked everything that i know to check. That is why I was wondering about the compression.A/F ratio is correct. Exhaust is new so I am sure its not that stopped up. Timing is good. I had to change to a Hotter plug (NGK # 4 heat range) just to keep the plugs from fouling so I could drive the car. I remember when i started buying parts that the compression was going to be on the high side , but I thought the cam would bleed off enough to at least run pump gas. I am using pump gas 93 Octane. I guess with the compression I've got , I may have to switch over to race gas. Or am i wrong altogether? Would high compression on pump gas foul plugs?

Thanks for the info. I did find out the the pistons had 4.5cc valve reliefs. There were just 2 reliefs. Also i am thinking the head gaskets were .039 compressed thickness

Hello , I know i'm going to get scolded like a red headed step child for asking this one. Whats my compression ratio??? I built my engine over several years slowly gathering parts.I never did the calculations. Here is what I know. It is a 72 model 351w block with Edelbrock Victor Jr Heads. I bought the heads used and never had the cc of the combustion chamber checked.I assume they are the 60cc. The pistons I used were Ross flat top pistons with valve reliefs. I am unsure of the cc of the valve reliefs. I used the 3.850 stroke crank with a .040 over bore. I also had the block decked , but just a clean up not a "zero" decking. I used a set of Felpro head gaskets , but am unsure of the compressed thickness. Anyone have any close guesses or "ranges"????

Hello, Im finishing up my 351w in my 69 stang. Im trying to dress it up and make it look good. I do not like the look of the oil pressure sending unit. That thing is huge. Is there another sending unit i could use that is smaller, and will still work with the factory gauge? Thanks for the help