CarZombie

Did you remove the seat the last time?  If not, you  might find that helps.   As I have gotten older, I have developed a  slightly claustrophobia condition.   Had an MRI a few years ago, and really had to play mind games to get through it, that was when I realized it had started.  When I had to replace a couple of small rubber pads that control the on/off of the brake light and cruise control on  a 1999 Nissan Altma, I had to take the front seat out, otherwise I was too close to the lower dash and the claustrophobia kicked in.   More work, but you can lay flat, more or less.
 
 

Just wanted to let every one know that I installed the carb on my Mustang about two weeks ago.  It fired right up on fast idle.  Once warm I adjusted the idle screws to get a smooth idle and drove it.  No problems.  Easy.   I want to thank Daytona Parts Company for the carb kit and more importantly Tim at Daytona Parts for all the tech help he provided to me before and during the rebuild process.   I also want to mention that I used a new float in this rebuild from Mike's Carburetor Parts.  Never had to call them, but the float fit right and seems to be working.  Hopefully it will end the problem I had with the old float taking on gas and screwing up the float level.    I have no interest in these business just hope that some one, some day finds this thread helpful.  

Just wanted to let every one know that I installed the carb on my Mustang about two weeks ago.  It fired right up on fast idle.  Once warm I adjusted the idle screws to get a smooth idle and drove it.  No problems.  Easy.   I want to thank Daytona Parts Company for the carb kit and more importantly Tim at Daytona Parts for all the tech help he provided to me before and during the rebuild process.   I also want to mention that I used a new float in this rebuild from Mike's Carburetor Parts.  Never had to call them, but the float fit right and seems to be working.  Hopefully it will end the problem I had with the old float taking on gas and screwing up the float level.    I have no interest in these business just hope that some one, some day finds this thread helpful.  

I want to re-paint the grill in my 1970 Mustang convertible. I bought a can of Scott Drake 1970 Grill and Rocker Panel paint, part number L 17500 from CJ Pony Parts. The one review of the paint said it was too light and it is. Link here: http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-grille%2frocker-panel-paint-mach-1-1970/p/PTDKARG/ I also tried Glazier/Nolan Mustang Barn, but they also sell the Scott Drake product. I also tried the Ford Dealer and that was a no go, they could not find any listing for such paint.
Mustangs Unlimited has a Charcoal Finish paint which they say is for the 1970 Mach 1 Rocker Panel. However, I know at one time they crossed referenced it as the proper paint for the 1970 Grill. The web site does not show that now. Link here: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=A5000+01
My question, has anyone used the Mustangs Unlimited Paint, or can anyone tell me the proper paint from another source?

My turn signals work with the headlight switch off or in the parking light position, but if I turn the headlights on, the turn signals stop working (both left and right).  I actually saw this happen.  The headlights were on and I was testing the turn signals.  As I watched, the turn signal slowed down and then stopped.  They were working ok immediately before this.  
I did a Continuity Test on the headlight switch and it seems to be functioning correctly.  
 
Searching  the past electrical problem threads tells me someone is going to suggest checking the grounds, if so please tell me where to find the ground points, and which ground points are the most important, if there is such a thing. 
 
Thanks