LoneWolf2U

And if you live in a leftist state they will be rushing out to arrest everyone for doing the law enforcements job.

possible leak in booster. Run engine to build booster pressure and shut it off. pump brakes 3-4 times to relieve build up. With foot on brake start engine, does the pedal drop down? yes the booster is working. No the booster may be leaking internally. Also after running engine listen for leak at booster check valve.

Vac control valve for heat. it opens/closed coolant flow to heater core.

With the old style reg you can try removing the cover and with fine sandpaper clean the contact points. have done this many times in the old days.

Start with basics first, Check the valve settings and timing marks. Loss of vac with heat shows a leak is present at temps and could be internal like intake mounting.

While I follow along on your builds and like the craftmanship of your work, I have a question. I may not now what else is in the plan as far as mounting other pieces that may go on them but may I ask why there is no beads rolled into the tubs? Wondering the possibility of flexing and tin sounds from lack of beads.

I see a few things I do not like, too close to brake line and floor for heat and it rattling the floorboard. Looks like they were confined to space to keep it raised but some for thought in placement would have been nice. maybe relocate the line before installing the muffler. Not how I would have done it.

Now your talking here, wish my garage was built now. I see many plans for something like this as a sleeper.

Has me thinking that another valve adjustment is in order after it has warmed up. Leaning that they are too tight now all the lifters have proper oiling. Just my 2cts.

Is there some missing info for wiring up this receiver? The trunk sol need 12v to operate, With it hooked up fused power on 30. Trunk lead to 87, frame ground to 85 and a touch of the + wire to 86 and the trunk should release. If that works test the amber wire on 85 an hit the button and see if the trunk releases.

details may be minor but the radio fitment is poor, many of the things you pointed out plus the trunk area concerns me. price is what anyone is willing to pay. The amount always comes down to the details and closer look.

Damn Ridge you trying to lure me back into this world? If my garage was built....Maybe

Without looking into the system, Yes the Amber wire would be the signal to the relay to turn on. 86 My question is why are you using the relay ? does the trunk release use that much power that it is needed? Test the Amber lead with meter to see if it sends a + signal or - when button on remote is used. From the wiring dia it is not clear.

going off memory here but the wiring to the relay is wrong. 86 is power from switch source to turn on relay. 30 is main fused power. 87 is power lead to trunk release. 85 is ground for relay.

Pretty lipstick on a pig. Sorry too much for what it is trying to be. I would keep looking as there are many flaws in just the few photos posted in the ad for the amount wanted.

I have bought many chevys just for resale, there is a sucker around every corner. And who is that babe in front of that gray thing in photo above?

Not feasible as there is fluid in convertor. a test run with flex plate is a normal test. Has the trans shop done a bench test of the completed trans? some shops have a dyno type set up just for this and testing operation of rebuilds.

I have found that dropping grommets in to hot water for a few minutes help to install a flexible rubber than a stiff. To thread the hose thru, apply a few drops of liquid soap to the hose, this allows hose to slide in without binding the grommets.

The trans should rest on the rear mount and not compress the rubber. Removing the trans with the converter connected to the flex plate is easy, You should not install it that way. damage can occur to the seal, pump, convertor so installing it into the trans first is the proper way to avoid this. From your postings on this problem, I have not seen any that say they balanced the convertor after it was rebuilt. If there is no shaking when they had it all off and the shaking returned when installed the only rotating mass is the convertor/pump when in neutral so that's where I would look.

Its a splash guard that keeps fuel from waving into the carb on inclines. Keep bowl levels correct and you may not need it.

My 2cts are rework your pieces, The repops are not the same. I had to get a tailgate for my 73 pickup, They are advertised as ford tooling and exact replacement just like ford made. The looks and fitment was good but the weight was off by at least 6lbs so it was thinner metal. will have to see if it holds up to 40+ years of service.

I take no doors for 100k Alex.

Because he was not armed with anything but a note. Shows just how the rules are not for the law abiding people nut the felons. Like the rules in Cali, you can not protect your property unless you want to be in jail and sued.

It may be only getting spark while cranking the starter, power to the coil is coming from the sol on the fender. Lack of coil power in run is from the tach or resistor wire or key. process of elimination using the wiring diagram.

While I do see the fine work that is being done here, My tightwad ass hurts at that price. But I have never been a checkbook builder/owner.