Handegard

In case anyone needs this in the future, the thread size is 3/8 pipe. I got a few adapters to 5/16, and made up my lines. Now I need TV linkage and a shifter, and my AOD swap will be complete.

I'd like to get some lines tomorow to finish the AOD swap I did to my '69. I need to know the thread size/pitch on the radiator for the lines. I'm going to order new lines with fittings pre-installed, and then run them ~2 feet to the existing AOD lines.

I have a few unhooked vacuum lines, (metal ones on the intake) that run to a Ford plastic box under the dash, and I noticed the column has a hole in it that was probably for a stalk opposite the turn signal... Was Cruise a factory option or is this dealer installed? I've got the original paperwork in storage, but I'm curious. I'd like to resurrect the cruise if it was OE.... Sounds expensive though....

Soo.... I ended up buying a auto shop, and I've been working 90+ hours a week for over a year... I've managed to build myself a little reputation for working on Classics, and a '67 Camaro I had in last month gave me a much needed kick in the but to get to work. I got the '70 going yesterday, and I came here this evening... I had forgotten how close my '69 was to running. I ended up yanking the 302 to trade for a 351W, and ended up getting the 351W and kept me 302. I'm going to try and get the 302 back in and running asap, after reading this thread. I had completely forgotten that I even got my car running.... I'm badly wanting to get it running again now. I got a friend hooked on classics with a '61 Chevy 4x4, got my dad hooked with a '66 289 coupe that he sold and now has a '67 Chevell 327 hipo (that I stuck a TH350 in last week), and both of my employees have offered to help with my '69.... Also, I ended up with the following in my collection: 2x 351W blocks/cranks/etc (one is at the machine shop now getting prepped along with the heads) Edelbrock 600 and a Holley 750 Edelbrock Water Pump Edelbrock Performer RPM Crower Enduro 1.7 Ford (7/16 stud) Eagle 5956 F H-Beam Rods Keith Black KB364 Pistons Brodix ST 5.0R Holley 12-289-11 Fuel Pump 110gph MSD 6AL MSD Blaster 2 Coil Petronix Two cams, the first was in the Brodix/351W combo. Comp XR270RF-HR10 4E9458 OR Comp 292H10 QB3730 I emailed Comp for more info on the cams. I might get something else altogether. The Brodix heads have the springs that came with the 270 and I've got the whole roller setup. But I'm not just going to toss in a cam that isn't right just because I have it....

I just drove the car home for the first time in ~6 months today, yesterday I finished installed the C4 I just rebuilt (it lost reverse to a broken anchor, and just went through the whole thing while I had it apart) I've made a deal with the body guy who did my '68 F350 body/paint and I'll be repowering a '52 Ford Panel truck with a 460/C6/9" for him and in exchange, he'll spruce up the '70. I've also decided I'm going to freshen up the 302, just new rings, bearings, gaskets, and most of all paint. I'm going to clean and repaint the engine bay, while it's our, and have a pretty new engine to match my pretty new C4 in my freshly painted engine bay... Wonderful ;)

Since I posted last, I've moved from auto-tech to auto-shop owner.... So I have some space to work on the Mustang again ;) I removed these today- Not as big of a difference as I'd hoped for, but I'm sure it's a improvement. A new workspace shot: Someone did this in my parking lot- I have cameras though, so I'll check the footage out tomorrow. Still pissed me off. My choices are claim on my car insurance.... or claim on my shop insurance.... Or live with it.... Sucks. I'm going to start driving it to work as often as possible, and every day I'll devote a little time to it. I've got a body/restoration guy who wants to do some labor trading, so I'm going to get him to do the cowl, floor, and fix the rust on the doors this spring hopefully. He moves south for the winter... He's did my '68 F350 cab and it turned out great...

I'm beginning a new motor build in the next week or so... A sneak peek! For a 351W. Not 100% sure if this is going to go into my '69 or my dads '66. If I give my dad the goodies, I'll be building it as a 393W (with some forged Probe pistons). I'm waiting to hear if I can get the 429 parts I want, and if so I'd like to use that for my Mustang... I've got a line on a 429 ready to assemble with some nice goodies.... I don't want to be last in the little 3 generation performance war I started recently. My grandfather is shooting for 400hp in the 390/4speed we're putting in his '68 F350 and so my dad wants a bigger motor (393W!) and more HP and a 5 speed.... I'm gonna have to build a bad ass 429 or keep the Brodix heads to myself and build a 408W! The best part is, I get to build all the engines (minus the port/polish on the 390 heads) and at shows, they'll all get a poster that says "Engine built by Freelance Auto" (Me) or in the case of mine and my grandfathers "Vehicle Restored by...)

Did this today, and it's bone dry. So at least I've narrowed it down to that. I'll investigate why later....

Did this today, and it's bone dry. So at least I've narrowed it down to that. I'll investigate why later....

Looking back at this thread, I realize my tabs are due any day! Oops!

Looking back at this thread, I realize my tabs are due any day! Oops!

Looks like we're getting power to the property where I work on my cars. This is huge. I own a 80 gallon 5hp compressor that I loaned to someone since I don't have power. If I can run that, I'll have a sandblaster in no time. Following that, I'll build a makeshift paint booth and get my paint on! I love working on classic Fords ;)

Looks like we're getting power to the property where I work on my cars. This is huge. I own a 80 gallon 5hp compressor that I loaned to someone since I don't have power. If I can run that, I'll have a sandblaster in no time. Following that, I'll build a makeshift paint booth and get my paint on! I love working on classic Fords ;)

I purchased a '81 F250 (originally had a 400M in it) and it had been supposedly swapped for a rebuilt 460 at some point in the past. Well, I believed him, as the motor and the core support have stickers that say "rebuilt by x company, las Vegas, NV) or something like that. It looked legit. Well, I go to change plugs, and I see a little problem. It uses 45s, not 25s like I thought! So I check casting numbers!... C9VE heads! C7 block (IIRC) and I checked stroke, it's a 429! I'm going to get more numbers, I haven't looked at the engine in awhile, but the numbers I had someone else told me it was either a Police motor or a Cobra motor. I'm not overly hopeful, but either way, it's giving me a serious headache deciding between engines- '69 casting appropriate 429, rebuid it and make it scream! '96 Explorer 5.0, 4bbl, AOD '96 Explorer 5.0, stock fuel injection (and 4R70W transmission) A 4bbl 5.0 is just so ho-hum. Now, I'd like the fuel injection, OBD-II, etc. But at the same time, having that 429 drop in my lap is tough... a 429 would just....be....so....cool....

Been along time. Other projects have come and gone, worked alot, worked not very much, etc. Now I spend most my time restoring a '68 F350 with my grandfather (which can be seen here if interested: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1068477-restoring-grandpas-68-f350.html) Mustang updates- I replaced my sending unit in the gas tank last week. I'm going to pull the tank any day and clean it, then put it back in with some fresh fuel line and gas. I got a new radiator (for a '70) to use with my '88 5.0 water pump. Its bolted in, the hoses need to be cut and hooked up, then it'll be ready to fill with fluids and I believe (fingers crossed!!!!!) that it'll run. Bare minimum to drive it (not finish) I still need: Shift/TV linkage for AOD Some form of exhaust Windsheild, side windows new instrument PCB power steering hoses (custom) Alternator wiring ('88 alt) But if Grandpa wants to help financially (it was his car originally, and he's having fun restoring a '68 F350 with me) I'm going to strip it down to a bare body, blast it, fix all the panels, and then have it primed (and maybe painted) I know that's not as simple as it sounds, but if I get just a little financial help, I can strip/sandblast it myself, I have a friend who'll paint it (no charge, other than materials and beverages) and I'm EAGER to learn how to replace sheet metal (doing it to my '68 F350 soon anyways) it's something that could reasonably be done for not a lot of money and in only a few months. This is a huge deal. If I do this, it's amazing. Then, I get it running, and I just replace parts here and there until the interior is perfect and the mechanicals are flawless. This is a dream that might become reality!

This only happens when the car is cold. And yes, there is a phenolic spacer. I drove the car today. It fired up immediately, and ran AMAZINGLY. I think the idle was a little low, but I set the choke, it fired up, idled perfectly, and ran good. This is after sitting 20+ hours. It did the same thing again, about 5 hours later. We'll see how it starts tomorow. I have a feeling this isn't going to happen until I let it sit.

I've got a '70 Mustang 302/C4 with a 2bbl. I've already replaced the fuel pump, no change. When I try to start the car after it's been sitting, it just cranks and cranks. No pops or anything. On a few occasions, I've been able to fire it up, but it seems to have been worse. If I squirt a little starting fluid in it, it fires right up, and if I let it warm up, it runs great, drives great. Has good power. It's just that long cranking. The carb was rebuilt by a local shop that does carbs (Carb Connection in Kirkland, WA) about 2 years ago, probably 6k miles.

Well guys, this one was a great experiance. I talked to the carb shop, talked to the owners of a local shop that do lots of classics, talked to my old boss (most skilled tech I've ever met) and I've asked about this in a few forums over the last six months, and on the suggeston of a old co-worker who "hates chinese parts for Fords" asked me to humor him and replace my brand new condensor...... And the car runs great. Six months, and it turned out to be the condensor? I guess that pertronix kit I purchased is going in now ;)

And hell, maybe someone just needs to teach me to set points. The reason I've had 4 distributors (well, 3/4 of them), is that over the course of troubleshooting for the last 6 months, I swear to you the gap is wrong EVERY time I check! I'll set it, it's right, and by-god the next time I look it's off again. I know there are two screws to tighten, and I'm familiar with a screwdriver, so I just don't get it. I rotate the engine until the cam in the disty is holding the points open on the highest point, then adjust the gap to have light drag at .021" (actual spec is not in my memory) and recheck after I tighten the screws, right?

Currently, the car idles just fine. I had it dialed in last summer by Carb Conn and it ran great for awhile, then this happened. Right now, when I fire it up, it idles just as good as it did then. Cold and on choke it idles at 1250 when I first start it, after I let it warm up, it drops down a bit, I'd guess it's smack in the middle of that range. I can toss the timing light on it again tomorrow and check it's warm idle rpm. I get off early tomorrow, and want to work on it.... I'm not really wanting to play with anything here... My knowledge of carburetion is scant (I work on new european cars all day after all!) but I'm guessing that if none of this has been touched since the car ran perfectly, it shouldn't need to be touched again? I'm not going to rule anything out. At this point, I haven't found anything wrong with the car, so I'm willing to start back over. I didn't get to work on it this evening, but tomorow I will plug every vacuum line on the car, and rule them out. I might even dig up my vacuum gauge, just to re-check. I have a Mityvac I can use to test the advance unit, but I've had 4 distributors in the car in the last 6 months, each with the same symptoms, so I doubt it's bad. Factory Autolite 2bbl. When I start it, it runs fine. Idles for awhile even. But when I put it in drive/reverse it dies. After this, when I restart it, it'll die again on it's own. I will put a vacuum on it to see if it hold. But again, I've had 4 distributors in it in the last 6 months for various reasons. I checked it against the manual at the time. If someone wants to chime in as to what the timing should be, I'll go set it again. I'll check again tomorrow. I've rebuilt engines, automatic transmissions, I've done the heads on a bi-turbo Audi A4 V6, but the one thing I freely admit to knowing nothing about is carburetors. And yeah, I know it's easy, but believe me, I've tried. I have zero luck anytime in the past I've touched one, and I honestly just don't want to. It's the one part of my car or boat I'm content to just pay someone else to touch. I know it's stupid, but I'm just not going to go there unless everything else is possibly ruled out. I don't have money to pay the carb shop to undo all my mistakes again. Something like this is what my gut is saying. I've got 5 years of experience, and it may not be with older cars, but for whatever reason, my nagging feeling is saying "fuel delivery"

The carb shop suggested I try a new coil, so I tossed one on (BWD E70, supposed to be direct replacement) and the car behaved exactly the same. This time, I managed to keep a fresh impression of it's behavior in my head and get straight to the computer! So heres what happens. Cranks, fires, idle seems to skyrocket for just a instant, then falls to what I feel is a good smooth chocked idle (sounds/feels normal). Keep in mind, I have no tach. Idles a moment, I put it in reverse, it immediately stumbles, stumbles, dies. After it dies, it didn't just fire back up. I had to crank and crank, pause, and try again. After I cranked it a bit, it eventually got that little "pop........pop......pop....pop...pop..pop.fire" fire feeling like it was trying real hard, just not quiet catching. It then idled poorly for a moment, and died again. At that point, I shut the hood and posted here. I'm now going outside to cap all the vacuum points on the manifold, and change the upper carb gasket (and possibly the lower, again, depending on what it looks like) I will also check the gap again, and the timing again if I have the tools here. Vacuum will have to wait till another day, the car is at home and all the tools are at work.

To add- The car is all stock, factory 2bbl. No, I haven't, but I will. Tonight, I'm going to remove all the vacuum lines, and just plug the tee on the manifold during troubleshooting. This car has always had a "thunk" when going into any forward gear (not reverse though) but it was almost non-existant after the carb shop tuned it all up and adjusted the idle.

Torque Converter is going to be my absolutely last guess. For now, I'll go along pretending that it's fine, until all other options have been exhausted. I don't think it's a manifold vacuum leak either (though I know I have one after the carb was off!). When this problem first started, I put a vacuum gauge on it, and had a almost perfect 18" of vacuum, with nary a hiccup in the needle. Last week, it wouldn't start, or would start for only a few moments. Then, I pulled the carb off, took it to the rebuilders, and they found a clogged emulsion tube (?) I put it back on, and it reved HIGH. So I replaced the lower carb gasket, and it started (with choke) at 1800rpm. Idled fine, after it sat a minute, choke came off, idled some more. I turned it off, it fired right back up a minute later, I put it in gear, and it stumbled immediately, and died. I checked timing today, and it's good, and I set the points yesterday (to 0.021 I believe) I talked to the carb shop today while buying a new gasket, and they suggested the coil. I happen to have a new coil sitting in the car I had meant to install, so I'll try that.

Help me make a troubledhooting checklist. Had the carb rebuilt over a year ago, and have problems for over six months. Car woud start, run, and randomly start to stumble and die at stoplights on my comute, and recently it has failed to run at all. I took the carb to the carb shop and they tore it apart and cleaned it (said the imulsion tube was clogged) and I put it back on. It fired up, it had a obvious vacum leak and idled HIGH. I moved it a few feet and turned it off. Today, I replaced the base gasket (below the spacer) and put it all back together. It fired up and idled pretty good (maybe a tad high, but it was on choke and I don't have a tach) Then, I put it in gear, and it stumbled again. I tried to move it, and it just stumbled and died. I do have a new fuel pump, fuel filter, just put good gas in it, fresh air filter. I have also checked over all the vacum lines, and don't believe I have a leak. Last time I checked vacum, I it was wonderfull, I think it was steady 18", also has good compression. Any other suggestions? I'm going to have to go dig out my tools and check the gap and timing again, but that was checked over and over and over again last time I tried to troubleshoot this...

Not sure exactly how original you are going for, but the top three are common thread, I just grabbed 3 at home depot. I'm sure someone can chime in with the exact thread if needed... I'm out of town..