MAD IN NC

I have the same exact problem and wrestling it also. Car while 95% complete has been sitting for a while. Ok - I take it out for ~50 miles per year. This was due to work, family etc... Lately I've been able to focus on cleaning up the past due list, car by car.... Today and for the next days all effort is on the stang.... Symptoms: - Extremely touchy brakes (front). Nose would dive. Sensitive... Brake warning light on. Does not pull to right or left... Actions to date: - Removed front rotors and had them cut. One had .008 taken off to true up rotor. Second rotor the hub (original design where studs/ lugs held hub to rotor) was loose and could not be saved. Purchased new from FLAPS, cut .005 and hung rotors. First drive, brake light off, pedal felt like it should have. No dive! - Verified Pads all good with less than 1k miles over the last 6+ years. - Verified no leaks in calipers or rear wheel cylinders. - Master does not leak and appears good (front and back pressure being applied simultaneously) - Power Brake Module does not leak air and operating. - Second drive light came back on... #^%#$ light. - Jacked up rear, started car and insured that the rear brakes were working. Re adjusted shoes to drum on pass side.. Light still on. #^%#$ light. Next planned steps: - Refresh Brake fluid and bleed entire system Front and Rear this week. - Will use a DOT5 silicon fluid as not impacted by water or heat and will not break down if car sits suspended as the cheap DOT3 I have in the car today (Carquest relabel). - Since pedal feels good/better now (no more diving since front rotors were R&R'd) goal is to flush R&R and work light resolution without wire cutters.............. Goals: - Get brakes back to standard operating with working idiot warning light. - Find a way to resolve without going to last step of ripping and replacing proportioning valve as it will be a PIA to get to / replace due to other mods. If resolved in the next week after the bleed I will gladly post results......

well.... finally back and working on the Mustang. Been having brake issues... have had them for some time now - really touchy, all front, fading.... clicking etc. - dash/ brake light was always on, been that way for years. Pulled front rotors to have them cut! One was able to be cut but the second rotor made a hell of a noise. Found out the "hub" was separating from the actual rotor and it was pretty loose. Also looked like the front brakes were the only brakes on the car and I'd have to replace the proportioning valve. So, new one piece rotor, cut that one as from FLAPS it was .005 out of round, hung both rotors (pads had less than 1k miles) and now everything is how it should be. I was worried that I'd have to replace the proportioning valve (ie light on) but with the cut rotors the light is off and the car stops as normal. Pedal feels great! I'll jack up rear tomorrow, put car in gear and see if there are rear brakes - If so then all is good and thanks to the mustang gods for being kind to me..

on the "new post" tab today (6/28) 16 of the 20 new posts are from spammers... I second miketyler suggestion of expansion of the admin rights to help the cause of "kill the spam"

Not that pollen season is over, I uncovered her, dusted her off and drove the car for first time this year for 50+ miles :thumbup:

I've seen pics of the CJ vinyl when completed and it does look good... but the key to success is the installer! Did the car have vinyl to start? If so do you have all trim pieces? Finding a good installer again is the key to a perfect job.

QA1 Precision Products TS601 - QA1 Stocker Star Shocks Helped with the fact that I even dialed out the wheel hop....

went to http://m.ebay.com/itm/231156454618 and typed in 1969 Ford Mustagn 2 Dr Hardtop, all engine... and got.. This part is not compatible with 1969 Ford Mustang. Ok... I can make it work

PM sent to ya NC69stang

I went original doors and reskinned nc69stang, what part of NC are you from?

When I was restoring my car the previous owner placed dynamat in the doors. When i removed the mat, it trapped moisture which caused the doors to rust inside out...... Had to reskin the doors.... I do use dynamat on the 65 vette but I'm not worried about rust with that car

Ironically enough I just found a picture of the "Exploding Optima" from the FGT forum... to my earlier post.

The Optima red tops do not like to be allowed to become discharged nor do they like to be quick charged (they will blow out.. acid everywhere!); if either of these situations occurs IMO the battery is junk however if used properly and as design they might last. personally I will never ever buy another Optima.... can't quick charge or "zap", memory, parallel charging to bring them back and quality. When I changed the Optima I went with an "Exide" from Sears....

Scotty?

The Ford GT is the reason. Car has "hips" and is ~77" wide. Also a 73' Eldorado that is 18'9" long with dry weight of 5,115#'s The standard width Bendpack is 90" inside - 110" outside... leaving ~6" of error when I have to back up which I am literally blind with the FGT. Additionally it's listed as post to post "inside" as the width. It does not take into account at the ramp level the 45 degree bracket for the air lock. That lift width at the ramp level with the FGT had other owners trimming back the 45 degree pieces of metal that are right up to the platforms as the tires "pooch" out and ran over the top of the ends. You literally loose 4" each side at the ramp level meaning it would be like threading a needle with less than a 2" margin of error for the FGT- not for me. The "wide" Bendpack is 110" inside giving me comfort and a margin of error I can live with as when I park the car there is nobody to guide me in when I back in.... Also when I researched it while made in China is ANSI certified. It also uses air locks meaning the compressor has to be connected - consider a "fail safe" versus just pulling the safety lever. Also went with the rolling jack - can lift either the front or rear of any car/ truck and have access like a 2 post but can store a car compared to a 2 post where I have to crawl under on my knees to move the arms and worrying about suspension issues from hanging wheels. I've had all my toys on the lift and my DD being a F-150 and never had any issues of backing in due to the 20" difference.... I'm glad I went with it! 4 years now holding a car, up and down 00's of times and not a single issue to date! BTW - Bendpack does offer a 110vac option - if you need it MAKE SURE IT IS ORDERED THAT WAY ($0 cost)... it is slower vs the standard 220vac, but just as fast as all other 4 posts operating on 110VAC

I have a Bendpak HD-9 Wide and am very happy with it... that beam is 10.5', and yes I had to raise the door to the ceiling. Thinking about getting another lift and if I do, I will raise the door myself as there are kits on the web for ~$200. It's not that hard.

It's called a "Shelby Drop" and there are dozens here on the site that have done it. Just Google "Shelby Drop" and you will find templates and methods..........

I'm out of country traveling but yes. Two options being 1- 5.0 front end of motor or 2- custom which is what I did with single belt when motor was out. Had to get different water pump, radiator etc. went w March setup and custom R&P PS pump. Pics in a day

Once restored correctly is should be worth over $250,000.00 Wish I had space and the time.....

Now thats funny!

enjoy the journey.... no matter what you want it will take longer. at least you are in a part of the country you can work and drive almost year round.... you have a great list and a known start... finish it, then do the upgrades. keep Pandora's Box closed!

looking for a brake and suspension kit... just curious hows your turned out? Tried PM'ng ya but mailbox is full!

March - had to shim out the PS Pump from Randall

agree - I tried the first set, returned it to Advanced Auto where I bought it from, took the second set to the muffler shop and they had the same experience... this was three - four years ago....

I purchased and waited, waited and waited for a Keisler RS600. Very minor mods required to drop it in. Came complete with everything! Price - very fair and worth it compared to scrounging up all the special parts and customizing a shaft etc... Just didnt have the time to do that... Was it worth it - yes... Suggest calling them and asking what the backorder status is but, would I do it again - yes..... should have done it when I had the motor stroked and dropped it back in.

hopefully the paint shop wont her to long..... you going to be able to drive her home?