69RavenConv

A customer sent in a 69 non-tach headlight harness for refurbishment, but it was too far gone for me to repair.  The main power lines to/from the starter solenoid and alternator didn't look right to me, as the alternator line should go down into the harness quite a ways, and then gets spliced back into the main power feed.  This is the point where one of the ammeter lines gets its signal (yellow wire).  Instead, the yellow wire only was spliced into the main power feed, and the alternator line looped back and was spliced into the main power feed before going to the starter solenoid.
Whoever designed this created an epic failure of the ammeter, which now can only read discharge and never any charging.  (Not that they were all that functional anyway, but still...)
I do not know if this was an AMP harness or someone else who fabricated 69 headlight harnesses.  The next time I get a true AMP harness in, I'll tear it apart and see if they have this bad design or not.

I sanded / wire-wheeled & painted my originals back in the early 80's and they really could be replaced.   
From the pictures online, the new repro's made by ACP looked pretty close to original so I bought a pair from NPD.   Well, they ended up shipping me a LH made by ACP and a RH made by Muscle Car GT, and the differences are obvious.   Contacted them, and they checked the rest of their inventory and they found all to be ACP, however the LH ones are Gold Zinc and all the RH's are Silver Zinc.   So they gave me a label to ship them back.   
Ordered a pair of Scott Drake from Summit as the picture on Summit's & S-D's sites is the ACP version but what they shipped were the cheaper looking Muscle Car GT.
Main issues with the Muscle Car GT version:   
M4x0.7 threaded inserts instead of the correct 8-32 inserts that the ACP has
OEM style Wire Boot is replaced by a molded rubber bushing at the back of the lamp socket
The stampings of the MCG are also quite different from OEM where the ACP is very close to the OEM stampings
Wire colors are not correct for either version (no winner here) 
Ground connection is also different from OEM on both: MCG is external like OEM but not correct and the ACP ground goes in the boot with the two other wires.
MCG is painted SILVER inside like OEM ... ACP bare Gold Zinc so needs silver paint
MCG has a GRAY gasket (lighter color than OEM) ... ACP has a WHITE gasket that needs to be changed
Both Lens's are generic w/o Ford Logo and neither have the correct style S.S. screws and both come with incorrect CLEAR bulbs
Correct Gaskets, Lens's, Screws, & Bulbs are available so no big deal there
The plating on my original and the N.O.S. one are a very close match ... you can tell by the pics that the Repro's are more gold/yellow.
     
I'm now waiting to hear back from a vendor that has 10 each of the "Mr. Mustang" version in stock (which the picture also matches the ACP), to see what the inventory really is.
I've got a N.O.S. LH one my brother bought back in the 80's it is super special because it has a 2-wire '70 style plug on it instead of the correct '69 3-wire plug (we also have a N.O.S. '70 RH lamp and the bumper bracket is longer and offsets the lamp more than the '69, with a correct 2-wire '70 plug).
I took comparison pics ...
From Left to Right ... NOS ... OEM ... ACP ... MCG
    

Photo of the year right there. 

Okay, we just got home. Somewhere in this heap of sheet metal is a badass 1970 Mustang.

No, 1969's did have the provision for the trunk light in the underdash, but not all tail-light harnesses contained that wire.

Sounds right, I have the convenience group in my car. For whatever reason, I thought all '69's had the 12V wire to the trunk but it appears I was mistaken. First time that's ever happened. :)

Sounds right, I have the convenience group in my car. For whatever reason, I thought all '69's had the 12V wire to the trunk but it appears I was mistaken. First time that's ever happened. :)

And it isn't found in any standard 70 harness that I am aware of; there's no connector for it in the underdash harness.  I believe you had to order a convenience package or something similar to get that line.

My 69 Grande did not have the wire and red bullet connector in the harness at the trunk. Had to run a wire from the bullet connector that is under the dash on driver side.

Where to look. Brian

Brian I think that I have seen near the hinge in your photo is where the wire goes through, there is a plastic clip that is attached to the small hole that holds the wire and a thin grommet ring that goes around the large hole to prevent the wire going through large hole from being cut then wire goes through lid to hole near latch and the light bracket is held in place there with a screw. As in photos of 69RavenConv above.

Love it. A Boss 351 in grabber blue has always been a dream of mine ('71 not '70 obviously)
Yours sounds like a great project. And you can enjoy all the car show folks who will tell you their buddy had an identical '70 Boss 351 back in high school...

I used 3/8" when I replaced my glass 2 years ago. Replacement glass is a tad thinner than OEM so I went with bigger ribbon. It worked no problem; I got it through NPD

I'm still holding out hope for a Hot Wheels of a 69 convertible that ISN'T a Shelby.

I would definitely order a Marti. You have a nicely optioned car at the very least. Depending upon how complete the car is, you can probably deduce the original color by looking for overspray or other hidden spots of original color.
You may not want to keep it original, pink or otherwise, but it's always cool to know what it started out as. 
I had a poster in my garage for a long time of a '69 vert in pink.  Not a great poster but I have a vert and there aren't a ton of posters with a '69 convertible on them, so you take what you can get... :)

I would definitely order a Marti. You have a nicely optioned car at the very least. Depending upon how complete the car is, you can probably deduce the original color by looking for overspray or other hidden spots of original color.
You may not want to keep it original, pink or otherwise, but it's always cool to know what it started out as. 
I had a poster in my garage for a long time of a '69 vert in pink.  Not a great poster but I have a vert and there aren't a ton of posters with a '69 convertible on them, so you take what you can get... :)

Looks like a Metuchen, NJ build (wavy edge). Like Brian writes above, if you can post the text we can probably decode it. I think I see power brakes, power steering, air conditioning and maybe a special paint color. Welcome to the site!

When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently.  I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on.
There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out.

You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot.
Anyhow, 3D printer for the win.  I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in.
My prototype:

 
works like a champ!  I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring).  My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better.  In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway.
Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.

Here's the original thread for anyone interested.

Merry Christmas guys!!

Just click on the icon in post #1 and you can download it yourself. Welcome to the site.

Well its obviously electrical. The starter clicks, so power is getting to the solenoid coil. Check the cables: battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, battery to block. 
If its a PMGR, this is how its usually done (not my drawing). It only shows the big terminals, the wires to the smaller terminals remain the same:

I just saw this and haven't tried them, and they are exceedingly expensive, but get this: 
Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB125

And all the folks I meet that had a '69 just like mine with the 289 in it...

Backed my 69 fastback out of my garage one day. Young fella walks by and says " Hey nice Camaro". Get outta here kid!
John