69RavenConv

Our cars were designed for 14" and 15" rims and in my opinion it's hard to make modern rims look "right" on our cars. The wheel wells and rocker height aren't "right" for bigger wheels. Len69Coupe and Rich Ackerman pulled it off really well.

Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset 
Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset
Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders.
Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.

Just adding my two cents to this thread...
I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many,  if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment.
In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires.
I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

I have the Grande' rear interior panels in my 1969 Hardtop ... got them from a junk yard Grande' in the 80's ... a huge difference vs. the plain steel painted panels.   
I don't know if the basic steel panel is the same as a non-Grande' but padded vinyl is added along with the arm rests and woodgrain panels.       
The padded vinyl is also embossed around the woodgrain, which might be hard to duplicate if the vinyl need replacing. 
Mine are all original including the vinyl.    Definitely a great upgrade if you can find as set in decent shape.
Doug
You can see the vinyl details pretty good in this pic:
 

I feel your pain Jerry, this is from today. And btw, I am lazy. 

Welcome to the site.  Before converting to EFI you might try a basic tune up?  Plugs, points and condenser or an oil and filter change?  Get the Ford Shop Manuals for your car.  Start learning the names of parts and their functions.  Then try asking a few questions?  See how it goes.  Brian 

I want more pics please!

I'm the 56 classic in the middle. My brother is too my left, and Mustang Steve is to my right. Canyon Lake TX is gorgeous. 

That's purty. How much work are you looking at before it's on the road?

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing. 

I verified my original 69 glass bracket locations with the Suesz measurements.  Accurate.  Brian

A quick update:
1-the 408 stroker finally arrived in the crate across the pond after 9 month of delays, shipping issues etc
2-taken some times to get the various ancillary parts, shipping to U.K. is a real pain; JBA shorties etc 
3-engine fitted and hoping to fire it up in next 3/4 weeks 
4-just collecting the other parts to complete the car e.g  glass will go in next 2/3 weeks 
car is booked into a major U.K. classic car show on 10 `July so has to be ready, but not sure if I’m going to make it 
chris 

I was  on facebook yesterday and there's a guy on a mustang forum that was selling two 2 spoke steering wheels for 68/69. Wanted $75 for both of them. I never sent you the link because I knew you had already bought the parts. That's the way it goes once u buy something u always find a better deal. 

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing. 

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing. 

I guess my mind doesn't work like an engineer's mind at Ford. Why would they design different horn parts for a two and three spoke wheel? The horn doesn't know how many spokes are on the wheel. 

Is this like what u need. They look similar but yet a little different. I think those are the turn signal cancel tabs aren't they
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124152569607?epid=23024425551&hash=item1ce811df07:g:ZfMAAOSwkzxboRNx  

Realise the value in the T-Bird and put a Windsor into the Mustang.  You can keep the T5 in it, its a DIY engine swap and changing the plugs will be a whole less pain.

Raven, West Coast Classic Cougar has a variety of Cougar/Mustang parts that may fit your needs- its worth a look

I was thinking that the whole assembly could be salvaged from a donor wheel. It appears to be riveted to the steering wheel. If so a cracked or bent wheel could be a perfect donor. Thanks for the tip.

Just things to work on while you're riding in comfort with that Thunderbird.

I'm not @nickjames138 but I think he meant Mustangs, Etc in L.A.
https://www.mustangsetc.com/

For those of you playing along at home, I finally got the car back on the road. I spent the winter tearing down the dash, the wheel, and going through the trunk inspecting all the wiring I could. I never found an identifiable defect. An ohmmeter confirmed the turn signal switch went bad. The new part I replaced it with was also bad (uh-oh, bad harness, short, etc, right? None was found).
Replaced the Scott Drake replacement with a Shee-Mar I found on Rock Auto (I honestly don't know if one is better than the other)
Everything now works, keeping my fingers crossed.
Well, one thing doesn't work. The moron wannabe mechanic working on the repair (me) broke the horn button. so now I have no horn and it looks like the only option is a new steering wheel. anyone got a red 2-spoke they wanna sell cheap?
 

The OEM radio was lit by a single bayonette style bulb that got power through a single blue wire you can see in the photo below. It sounds like your harness is pretty butchered so it may take some work to find the conductor (or what's left of it) in your dash.
 

You'd be better off buying the best completed car you can find given you don't have the tools/equipment to do a full restoration.  Let someone else eat the costs of restoration that almost always is never recovered when the car is sold.
The amount of funds you'll be spending to outfit a dynacorn chassis will be north of $20k.  Even so, it will not be a genuine Ford product that's 50+ years old.  A good refurbished fastback can be found (with time...) for less than the cost of the new chassis and outfitting.