69RavenConv

I'm not familiar with the mirror issue but the best way to determine your build date is from a Marti report. VIN's were assigned as the cars were ordered but they were not built in the same order. The Marti report will tell you the exact day it rolled off the assembly line.

BSWOR you should consider pinning this post. 
A REAL Schematic
Until now there were no entire car schematics for our cars, only wire diagrams. This schematic is 5 pages in four separate pdf files (a quirk of my CAD software).
A real schematic rarely makes any attempt to identify wires or plugs or connectors. A real schematic tries to show the internal workings of a component when it helps to explain a circuit. A real schematic simplifies. A real schematic is used when you want to understand how a circuit works.
A real schematic is what the designer makes first, then he converts it to a wire diagram. A wire diagram shows where wires go and how to connect them. You need BOTH to work on a car, unless the wire diagram is just so darn simple you don’t need the schematic.
Our electrical systems consist mostly of switches and lights; around 44 and 41 respectively. Switches are either open or closed. This schematic only shows when a switch is closed. Usually that is indicated by a few simple words below the switch like on, off, run, start, etc. Pay attention to the top section of page one. It shows the most often used symbols on the schematic.
I started this project so I could calculate the electrical loads and know what size alternator to get for my future needs (EFI, fuel pump, halogen lights, power windows, etc.) Amperage information for a stock 1969 Mach1 is in an accompanying spreadsheet (Mustang amps.xls) along with a chart of our most common electrical load: light bulbs. If you don’t like the loads I used to calculate “Likely constant amp draw”, by all means alter the spreadsheet to suit your needs, or use simple math- just don’t complain to me.
My hope is that this schematic and spreadsheet become valuable reference tools for other hobbyists. Edit: I've seen quite a few questions about the 1970 turn signal circuit so I started another topic for "1970 Mustang Exterior lights".
Edit, it is now six years later and long past time to post the most current revisions. The site has been down for "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" many times, so I have added a method to view the schematics and other technical documents: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
Mustang amps.xls
MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG4 REV5.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG3 REV6.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG2 REV5.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG1 REV5.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG5 REV5.pdf TABLE OF CONTENTS 69 MUSTANG SCHEMATIC.pdf

Someone we know made it to an Internet Mustang magazine...
http://www.fordmuscle.com/news/power-profile-randy-jacobsons-midlife-is-no-crisis/

Why not gut a regulator. Then hook the wires up to your now dummy regulator. It will look stock.

Wifey sounds like a very smart lady. It's much harder for a chainsaw murderer to sneak up on you than it is for an ax murderer, so I don't worry about them.
Thanks for the tip about lacquer thinner. I still run the original wiring in my car and it carries half a century of dirt on it. I was always afraid of chemical cleaners taking the color off so I used dish soap and water -- helped a bit but not great.. Gonna give the LT a try.
 

The undercoating on the inside of the door skins was more for noise suppression than for preventing rust.  Keeping the lower door weep holes clear will go a long way in rust prevention.  Brian

The street Nats used my 460 powered 69 for one of their event ads

It worked, the spammers are hitting Midlife's page now, LOL

Looks like karma (and the spammers) caught up with you, Mr. Smarty-Pants :)

It worked, the spammers are hitting Midlife's page now, LOL

I can vouch for that. I did it and while I love the fact that it's original, driving directly into the sun is a challenge I could live without. I'll probably change it out someday.

Yeah, me too. I was 11 at the time, a magical time of life before you  got, well, old :)
There was a movie out a few years ago called "1969" I never saw it but I bought the soundtrack for my Mustang.
 
Looks like the jukebox in Pak's original post isn't around anymore, too bad.

Mine is 15" long, 2" in diameter (38 cm x 5 cm). A good match for my stock small block radiator. No worries about the confusion. As stated, there is no downside to a recovery tank, only upside should you ever need it, whether in your driveway or at the track

Bought an inexpensive billet cylinder on eBay. Mounted using the existing radiator bolts.

While I was getting all the welds and plasma cut areas all smoothed out on the modified areas, I went ahead and finish welded the muffler to the pipe assembly. I attempted to keep the tube in the same relative position while I went around the joint. Everything turned out nicely.

I dusted a little primer on the rocker area that was bare metal and removed the tape off of the tip. Getting all of it reinstalled on the car, without any extra bracing it still lines up, thankfully.

I had to get a right side up pic of the tips without their yellow tape, the picture does not do them justice...

With a little rearranging, I'm onto the passenger side. The tip on the driver's side will have to come off again to make some cut templates, and for general reference. Hopefully the second side will be quicker.
 
 

That is really sharp! I bet walnut would look great, too.

Yes....yes, she is.  like most of the women in my life :)

Just to be clear, the Osborn books are the Ford Assembly manuals. The late Jim Osborn collected all the Ford drawings he could find, scanned them, and published them in small format books. Some of the drawings were in rough shape and some of the scans are weak and unfortunately they put a watermark on every page but it's the best we got :)
 
http://osborn-reproduction.com/

For the record, there are two resistor wires, and I gave the OP misinformation.  The first resistor wire of 10.0 ohms, runs from ACC to the CVR input pin on the dash cluster.  The second resistor wire, specific to tach dashes or dashes with alternator indicator lamps, also runs from ACC power but goes to a pin on the fuse box connector that mates with the headlight harness.  Typically, both resistor wires start near the ignition switch: one at the pin itself and another at a factory OEM splice a few inches above the ignition switch connector. 
 
There's a third resistor wire of 1.5 ohms: the infamous pink resistor wire that chokes the coil voltage and current.
 
I'm putting my money on the idea that the ignition switch connector had to be changed sometime in the past, and this tach specific wire was not spliced back in or fell out of the crimp.  It cannot be soldered, and being a single wire strand, is difficult to crimp by itself.  It has to be reinforced with another wire segment when crimping; the other end of this section of wire goes nowhere, explaining the black wire on the dash cluster pin that is loose by itself when the tape is unraveled.

The Pontiac Fiero (1983-1988) is a popular choice. Later model Mustang seats are also used. I'm sure there are other choices that will work, too. Good luck with your search. An old Fiero may be hard to find in Italy,

Any other old-timers remember the "Tijauana Taxi"?   (https://myclassicgarage.com/social/posts/89577-gapp-roush-tijuana-taxi)
 

Any other old-timers remember the "Tijauana Taxi"?   (https://myclassicgarage.com/social/posts/89577-gapp-roush-tijuana-taxi)
 

Yes....yes, she is.  like most of the women in my life :)

Saw this on German TV last week:
 

My car had minor front end damage at one point in it's life so it's possible the body shop fixed the part in my car also, welding the tab back on.