69RavenConv

The 3-speeds have a push-button switch that mounts on the shifter at the tail of the tranny. When the shifter is in the reverse position, it depresses the switch and illuminates the backup lights. Two wires from the switch run up the transmission tunnel to a square 4-pin connector on the firewall near the master cylinder (the other 2 pins on the connector should have a short loop of wire connecting them). I suspect your switch was lost during a transmission swap. These switches aren't reproduced AFAIK. I don't know how the T5's work, but if you can route some wires from the T5 switch to that 4-pin connector under the hood, your BU lights should work. In other words, if the 2 pins are shorted, the lights go on, if the 2 pins are disconnected, the lights go out.

I read somewhere that a string of Christmas tree lights under the car will deter mice, since they're looking for a dark, safe place. I've never tried it (not sure I believe it) I just use the usual traps and poison baits around the garage and hope for the best. I try not to leave stuff like boxes piled up in one place for too long either. Maybe you could put a cat under the back seat?

"Automobile repair on a shoestring", eh?

The pics showed up ok for me. Trust me, Pak, you don't want to see them.:scared:

Hey, that's a generous offer, but it's really not necessary. We will still try to hook up at the swap meet, though. I can't help you with the fenders, I replaced mine a long time ago with the Taiwan replacements and don't have any real complaints. Any of the repop's would probably be fine since you're going to weld it all together anyway. That might be a good question for the vendors at the swap meet....

$150K for a 351 restomod? No thanks.

Love Canadian beer. 50's especially. I'll be in touch with you guys before the swap.

Thanksgiving weekend, anyone else going to be there? I'll be heading down on Saturday the 29th. It's always a big swap, if anyone wants me to be on the lookout for anything in particular, let me know.

Also might be a vacuum leak or carburetor problem.

While I'd never consider suicide doors for my Mustang, the seat covers aren't bad (you dog!:tongue_smilie:)

In the "start" position, all your ignition switch does is short the two little terminals on the solenoid. So if you can crank it by shorting the terminals with a screwdriver, I would suspect the ignition switch or the wiring to it. Since you say the old and new switch both do it, I'd say that points to the wiring. Are the little boots that connect to the solenoid clean and gripping tight? Break in the insulation somewhere shorting to chassis? Connections at the ign switch tight?

Yeah, I bet you got a bad, loose, broken, or missing connection somewhere in the circuit. Good luck and let us know what you find. Then, the first round is on me...:blink:

Tom makes a good point. Try disconnecting the scoop lights and see if the "real" lights work. It may be a glitch between the scoop lights and the turn signal harness. Like power and ground swapped.

Also make sure you've got the correct 1157 bulb (two filaments and two contacts on the bottom) and not 1156 (one filament/one contact). And that a previous owner didnt' replace the 2-contact socket with an incorrect 1-contact one. This applies to both front and rear turn signals.

I know you said you replaced the ign switch and solenoid, but since you can crank it by jumping the solenoid terminals, I'd suspect one of those two is the culprit. It could also be a bad connection somewhere between the ign switch and solenoid. Could something have shaken loose? Or a dead spot in the ign switch?

Ha, reminds me when I first bought mine the gas tank float (which is two pieces of brass soldered together) had sprung a leak and wouldn't float. I carried a notepad and wrote down the mileage every time I got gas so I could refuel before ~300 miles. I still ran out of gas more times than I care to remember and finally fixed the d@~^ thing!

I found this site poking around the web, maybe step 8 applies??? http://www.hurtle.com/cars/mustang/fixes/carb/

I would guess either the float or needle valve. The fuel pump sends gas into the bowl of the carburetor; inside the bowl is a float that rises and closes a needle valve when it's full, preventing more gas from coming in. If the float isn't floating (or isn't set right) or the valve isn't closing, you get overflow like you're describing. Are you sure it's coming from inside the carb? Because it could also be a loose fuel line or hose clamp, etc.

No problem, you just need one of these.... http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3425&d=1218479836

Like flight said, a head swap is a quick, easy way to add HP. The stock '69 302 heads are a definite weak link when it comes to making HP. So if more HP is your goal, I'd definitely recommend new heads. Most any of the wide assortment of late model 5.0L performance heads will make a big difference. I've heard good things about the GT40 heads, too. Beyond that, you've got to go to a wilder cam, taller pistons, stroker kit, supercharger, bottle, you get the idea. Time and money. Heads you can do on a Saturday at home. I would bet that better heads and 3.73 gears will give you a very noticeable improvement and still be very streetable. But probably not 300 hp at the wheels.

Checking my Mustang Recognition Guide, on page 144 it states the Deluxe Group was only available on "sportsroofs and convertibles". On page 145 it says "sportsroofs and hardtops only". So take my comment with appropriate amounts of salt.

Standard interior = well, standard. Interior decor = comfort weave seats, deluxe door panels, 3-spoke wheel, remote driver's side mirror, standard black camera dash Deluxe interior = Same as decor group but with the woodgrain dash. The deluxe interior was not available in the vert, so what you guys have is the Decor group, which would be correct for a convertible. Other options, such as the visibility group, clock, or console could tweak the exact setup, of course.

Maybe this can help? http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/chevylist/tech/tire_size_conversion.htm You'll get a zillion different opinions on wheel & tire sizes, and most will be much more knowledgeable than me. But I think the factory original was 7.35-14 (E78-14) which looked dorky-skinny even back in the day. E70-14 or F70-14 was a good upgrade. You've got the equivalent of F60-14's. From the chart, maybe 225/60R14's would be a better fit? Or, like you say, use spacers behind the rim. Somebody smarter than me will tell you how to make yours work.

THAT'S AWESOME!! When I was 15 I had posters on my wall of the Glidden Allen Pinto, Dyno Don Nicholson's 70 Mustang, and the Gapp & Roush Mustang II. Those early 70's Pro Stock guys are one of the big reasons I'm a Mustang nut to this day. Those 351 Clevelands kicked @$$ back in the day, those heads were way ahead of their time. Nicholson's "7-Day Wonder" 427 SOHC was a great car too. Dyno Don passed away not long ago, I'm glad Glidden's still going strong. Roush, too, of course.

That's a sharp car and it sounds like a survivor (even if the paint color isn't one Ford offered in 1969). It'd make a nice weekend cruiser if you didn't mind the 6-cylinder. It'd be kind of a shame to mess with such an original car by putting a V8 in her.