69RavenConv

I started up the vert last weekend to let her idle a bit, and when I shut her down the starter quit -- couldn't get a chirp out of it. So I figure I found a dead spot on the armature and I need a new starter. So I call the boneyard and order up a newer (used) high torque permanent magnet job to drop in. But the purist in me can't let the original go that easy. So I do some searching and find that NAPA still offers a rebuild kit for the old starters. So I go to the local NAPA store and the guy says "I haven't stocked those for 20 years". He gets on the computer and says "there's 7 left in the whole country". I say "order me one". Now I don't know if it's really true, but if you've got an original starter you want to keep for originality or show points, it might be a good idea to scarf up a rebuild kit now while they're still available :)

Thanks for the heads up Pak, I just ordered one.

It's a movie from the mid 90's called "Jeffrey". Never seen it, although I'm told it was pretty good.

The link Grabber70Mach provided is a good one: http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop

Try this link. It's the first video in the upper left corner. Fast forward to the last 20 seconds or so.... http://www.nbc.com/Knight_Rider/video/

You can still watch the episode on their website, I think. I haven't, but I did watch the little video clip where the car changes into the '69.

The only mintmarks you'll find on a Jefferson nickel is Denver (D), San Francisco (S) or Phildadelphia (P, or blank) Other coins have been minted in New Orleans (O), Carson City (CC), Dahlonega, Georgia (D before Denver mint was opened) and West Point (W) but you won't find any of those on a Jefferson nickel. There, more information than anyone wanted to know :whistling:

You got it. If you want to use a 12V coil, simply replace the pink resistor wire with a normal 12 ga wire. Everything else stays the same*. (*Actually, it gets easier, because now you can connect the red pertronix directly to +coil instead of at the ign switch, because now they're both 12V)

Bryan's right, any switched 12V is ok to run the Pertronix. As far as killing your tach, you don't need to worry if you use the correct factory harness; the switched 12V will flow thru the tach, thru the resistor wire, to +coil as intended. The splice you need to make is only to tap switched 12V to power the Pertronix. And I agree, doing it at the ign switch makes the most sense.

Nice touch with the GT option, Pak, I almost missed that!

Hey, maybe some cheesy ASCII art would help! With Factory Tach (I think, never seen one) Ign Sw O---------Rd/gn------O [Tach] O---------Pink----------O +coil | | -------------------------------------------------------O Pertronix Red Without Tach Ign Sw O----------------------------Pink------------------O +coil | | ------------------------------------------------O Pertronix Red Wrong! O----------------------------Pink------------------O +coil ----O Pertronix Red Ign Sw

1) Where do I hood wire from igntion switch + side of coil or red wire on pertronix? Hopefully, your harness is still intact. Re-connect the tach, ign switch and 6V coil back to the stock configuration. That means green/red from ign to tach, and pink wire to +coil. Disconnect PO's bypass wire to +coil Now take that bypass wire that PO put to +coil, and hook it to red Pertronix. If PO did it right, it's connected to +12V at the ign switch. Now everything should work. If the Pertronix already had a good 12V at the red connection, skip the last step and just discard the bypass wire. This site has wiring diagrams that should help: http://www.themustangshop.com/resources.cfm 2) At start up I thought you are suppose to get 12 volts to coil but drop it to 6+ once car is running is that true? and what causes that to happen? Yeah, technically, the voltage drop only happens when current is flowing thru the coil primary, +coil to -coil (Ohm's law). The grounding of the -coil terminal is controlled by the distributor electronics (either points or Pertronix). So yeah, all this theory only really works when the distributor is turning. I'll measure mine and see what everything reads when everything's turned off.

Your assumptions are correct. The factory coil is a 6V and needs the pink resistor wire. The pink wire is designed to take 12V at the switch and drop it to 6V at the coil. Some folks replace the factory coil with a 12V coil and ditch the pink wire altogether. Then you can hook up the Pertronix module and everything else that's 12V under the hood. Check to see if PO did this. If you've got a factory coil and pink wire, you can get 12V for the Pertronix by splicing into the pink wire at the ignition switch, not the coil. (I hooked up my electric choke there as well). You can add an inline fuse to be safe. On a factory tach car, I think the pink wire goes to the tach, then a red/green wire goes from the tach to the ign switch. In a non-tach car, the pink wire goes right to the ign switch. So for a tach car, you use the red/green at the ign switch instead of pink. I don't have a tach, so double check this, but I would bet you a donut your hunch about the 6V/12V/pink wire issue is right.

I have to agree. Are you sure the intake isn't warped? Are you using proper washers on each bolt to prevent them from gouging into the aluminum intake? Something's fishy....

I'll vouch for that. I put 2.5" on my vert and it was a royal pain routing it through there but it eventually worked out. I doubt I could have gotten 3" to work at all. If I had it to do over again I'd go smaller. That plate is part of the vert's structural integrity, so you don't want to leave it off, either.

Hey Dean, Welcome to the frustrating world of restoration! You probably don't need to replace everything. It's better to approach it a little at a time and evaluate each subsystem as you tackle it. When it comes to wiring, it boils down to this: Insulation gets brittle with age and exposure to the elements, and the wire inside corrodes if it's exposed to the elements. If the insulation is intact, the wire will is likely ok. Check each harness systematically; the stuff in the interior might be fine, while the stuff in a rotted out fender might be bad. The electronics in these cars is primitive, which is both a blessing and a curse. While they aren't sophisticated, they also aren't that fragile either. Are you saying that the car used to run but now it doesn't? Or are you just considering changing everything? Good luck and keep us posted!

Lots of places reduce their inventory as much as they can at the end of the year for tax reasons. I suspect CJ's is no different. As for the distributor, it should lift out after you've removed the hold-down clamp (which you did, because you removed the intake). It might take some gentle persuasion (a couple sharp raps with a mallet or a pry bar) to get it loose though.

Reen Machine and Painless both make easy-to-install kits but they're pricey. There's a Ford guy somewhere on the net that offers one for about $50 if I remember right. Somebody here may know where to find it. Mine was cheap too but they don't offer it any more and I had to modify it quite a bit before I was happy with. But if you do it using the bulb connectors (like these kits do) you don't have to touch/butcher your original harness, if that matters to you.

I used one from American Products (APC) that I bought at Summit. It's no longer available and I wouldn't recommend it anyway. You should consider doing all the splicing and wiring directly behind the lamps, though. That way you know you've got the right wires and it's real easy to piggyback the new wires on the existing wires to hide all the work. Just my 2 cents.

That sounds like the right harness. Whose kit are you installing? The one I used just mated to the existing headlight (bulb) connectors and, of course, the solenoid (for battery power). All the mods were in front of the radiator. I mounted my relays in front of the battery. There are two bolts there that adjust the up & down position of the headlight bucket and they were perfect for the relays.

It's an easy swap, intake manifold and carb. A 302 requires about 450 cfm, so there's no reason to go bigger than ~600 cfm. A Holley 1850 600 cfm will drop right in and work with the stock throttle linkage and PCV hose. (A carb with the PCV port on the back instead of the side will require linkage mods and a new PCV hose). I ran an 1850 on an Edelbrock hi-rise aluminum intake for years with no problems. Unless you like the old school choke knob under the dash, you'll probably want an electric choke. These carb setups are common as dirt and you should be able to find a deal if you don't want to buy new. I'll echo what the other guys said, that a swap won't buy you a lot in the performance department unless you add other stuff like a cam, dual exhaust, headers, etc. But it will run just fine.

Congrats, SlimeGold! It was actually Grendi across the pond that I was thinking about, and I see BNickel has a couple of 68's as well... http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=5278 (June 4th for my vert)

Thanks and right back at ya. I was thinking about you earlier - wasn't yours actually built in '68 and it's already turned 40? Somebody on the forum had a 68 build...

Also, how do I check if my condensor is good? There are ways, but the simplest is to just replace it and note any difference. You should keep spares in the glove box anyway if you're still running a point and condensor setup.

I'm pretty sure the original battery was a type 24, which refers to the form factor. Get a type 24 rated at least 500 cold cranking amps (CCA) for a stock V8 and the cover should fit just fine (the originals were rated at something like 330 CCA, which is amazingly weak by today's standards). Get more CCA's if you're running higher compression, etc.