69RavenConv

My manual top is different than you power guys. According to the shop manual, what I have are called "counterbalance cylinders". I took some photos tonight. My cylinders pivot on a pin as you move the top up or down. It is mounted with two bolts, visible in the second picture, which is looking down from the top. Remove those and it's free. There is no fitting for a hose as far as I can tell, so they only serve to dampen the movement.

I have a quart of epoxy left, 1/2 gal high build, 1 qt clear. and 1/2 gallon of HOK black after 4 coats of that. Cool, that should be almost enough to paint mine!!! I'll be over next weekend!:biggrin: Seriously, that's just the kind of info I was looking for, thank you!

You can absolutely enjoy it, that's why all of us are here!!! But while you're driving home from the cruise-in, your headlights may quit, then while you're fixing those, the lower radiator hose will start leaking, then while you're replacing that, you'll crack a brake line, then.... No really, these cars are a lot of fun, but I wouldn't want to rely on mine to get to work (and back) 52 weeks a year. That's all I'm saying. And yeah, you will spend money (and time) taking care of one. It's unavoidable, IMO.

Yeah, a manual top has hydraulic cylinders, too. I don't know if they're the exact same as the power top but it wouldn't surprise me. I know they're usually expensive, and it's probably not something I'll ever do, but just in case I ever see a set up at a swap meet, I'd like to know what's involved ahead of time.

I'm pretty sure the mount on racing mirrors is longer than the standard rectangular chrome mirror. You could order a set of gaskets (pads) for cheap and see if the holes line up. Your links are broke, but looking at their website, it looks like the ME2S is the correct standard mirror and ME4R is the correct racing mirror for a 69. I don't know if you could get a standard passenger-side mirror from the factory (somebody here will know), but they sell a ME14S for the passenger side.

Forgive me for (temporarily) hijacking the thread, but was the power top a factory or dealer installed option? Does it show up in the data plate or a Marti report? And how is the wiring routed from the switch to the pump? I always thought I might install one in my vert if I ever came across a deal. I understand it's the addition of a switch and a pump, right? The cylinders are the same, right? Thanks.

A 97 would have a 4.6 motor, but it's pretty easy to drop a modern 5.0L drivetrain into a 69/70, since it's basically the same old 302. And there are tons of them available. But you've still got the outdated suspension, steering, and brakes to deal with, along with old heaters, gauges, wiring harnesses, etc. So if you drive it much, you're forever tinkering, as Pak pointed out. Either that, or you're faced with the expensive proposition of upgrading to modern replacement systems. Not trying to discourage you, but 40 year old cars are high-maintenance. You end up investing much money and time keeping them on the road.

I've heard good things about them, is their stuff available retail or only mail-order? How much material would I need to do a convertible? I plan on epoxy, 2K, base, clear ... Is that "House of Kolor black" you mentioned one of their products/colors? Thanks, any advice is always appreciated!

YES! we've all been there, at least I know I have. The old-timers always say take your time and cost estimates and triple them, and it's true. There were times I went to the garage, stared at the car for a minute, turned off the lights and walked away. But I always got the urge to go back and keep going. You just have to compartmentalize everything - do one manageable job at a time, don't look at the big picture all at once. Pace yourself. You can't rush it, and sometimes you'll be short on cash or time, and it WILL take longer than you planned. My rule has always been "when its not going well, walk away" because that's when I make mistakes or get sloppy.

Damn, your lawnmower never looked so good as it does reflected in that door. You're getting me all fired up, my raven black vert gets painted as soon as the weather warms up here at the Great Lakes....

Yeah, buy the most CCA (cold cranking amps) you can afford in a group 24 case. Something around 500-600 CCA is more than adequate for a stock small block. Actually, I think it might be group 24F as the Fords had the + and - terminals reversed but either one will work. I think the original factory batteries were rated at something like 330 CCA or something pitiful like that. Technology marches on...

Nice, another vert on the boards! Man, it looks like you've got your work cut out for you. Save the hockey stick mouldings and sun visor brackets if you've got em :biggrin: !! Looking forward to watching your progress, I should be getting mine on the road this summer, can't wait.

Yep, early 80's. E0 and E1 would be 1980 and 1981 part numbers.

I have to agree, working on the heater stuff may be the most irritating job on our cars. I would go ahead and pull the dash, because even if you manage to get it out, you still have to get it back in.

I put roller rockers in my stock heads along with a roller cam when I rebuilt the engine and it was not that complicated. You just have to be sure all the parts are compatible - and all of the big manufacturers will spec a matched set of lifters, pushrods and rockers that will work for your application. If you're going to the trouble and expense of swapping heads, you might consider swapping the cam and lifters, too, to get a full roller setup. I used Comp Cams, but Crane and others have offerings. Just a thought.

Looking good! Is that the silver bubble wrap insulation you can buy at Lowe's? I've got the standard "sound deadener mats" that all the Mustang parts houses sell, but I've also got a roll of that silver bubble wrap insulation. (I use it on my beer homebrewing equipment) Now I'm wondering if it might be a better way to go. Less weight and better coverage for sure. Or is something more high tech?

I started up the vert last weekend to let her idle a bit, and when I shut her down the starter quit -- couldn't get a chirp out of it. So I figure I found a dead spot on the armature and I need a new starter. So I call the boneyard and order up a newer (used) high torque permanent magnet job to drop in. But the purist in me can't let the original go that easy. So I do some searching and find that NAPA still offers a rebuild kit for the old starters. So I go to the local NAPA store and the guy says "I haven't stocked those for 20 years". He gets on the computer and says "there's 7 left in the whole country". I say "order me one". Now I don't know if it's really true, but if you've got an original starter you want to keep for originality or show points, it might be a good idea to scarf up a rebuild kit now while they're still available :)

Thanks for the heads up Pak, I just ordered one.

It's a movie from the mid 90's called "Jeffrey". Never seen it, although I'm told it was pretty good.

The link Grabber70Mach provided is a good one: http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop

Try this link. It's the first video in the upper left corner. Fast forward to the last 20 seconds or so.... http://www.nbc.com/Knight_Rider/video/

You can still watch the episode on their website, I think. I haven't, but I did watch the little video clip where the car changes into the '69.

The only mintmarks you'll find on a Jefferson nickel is Denver (D), San Francisco (S) or Phildadelphia (P, or blank) Other coins have been minted in New Orleans (O), Carson City (CC), Dahlonega, Georgia (D before Denver mint was opened) and West Point (W) but you won't find any of those on a Jefferson nickel. There, more information than anyone wanted to know :whistling:

You got it. If you want to use a 12V coil, simply replace the pink resistor wire with a normal 12 ga wire. Everything else stays the same*. (*Actually, it gets easier, because now you can connect the red pertronix directly to +coil instead of at the ign switch, because now they're both 12V)

Bryan's right, any switched 12V is ok to run the Pertronix. As far as killing your tach, you don't need to worry if you use the correct factory harness; the switched 12V will flow thru the tach, thru the resistor wire, to +coil as intended. The splice you need to make is only to tap switched 12V to power the Pertronix. And I agree, doing it at the ign switch makes the most sense.