69RavenConv

Ha, that could do it, although it wouldn't make sparks would it?? If it is, I guess I owe you and Tom donuts.....

You guys might want to call or email them directly. I've bought stuff from them (with happy results) and I'm pretty sure it's a small mom and pop operation, so not sure how often they surf over here* *(this guarantees they will answer in about 5 minutes, making me look foolish)

Good advice about checking the battery terminals. The cylinder at the regulator is just a capacitor to reduce radio static and doesn't need to be hooked up for ignition to work. You're cranking, so I'd say the battery is not the problem (more like the victim). If your battery goes dead while running, it means the charging circuit is not working and your ignition is running off pure battery power. It's sounding more and more like this is where your problem is. If you saw a spark by the regulator, that's where you want to start looking. I'll bet you a box of donuts it's either: 1. Wires hooked to the alternator wrong (or the harness itself is bad), or 2. Wires connected to the voltage regulator wrong. I'd check #1 first. As for #2, the regulator connector is keyed so it won't go on backwards, but I know those pins can get pushed out or rot off, leaving dangling ends that can short. Make sure it's all right and you can eliminate #2. A set of shop manuals is pure gold in a case like this ($60 from any of the Mustang houses). It'll show you in pictures exactly what wire goes where.

Ok, you've obviously got a wiring problem. You've got a short where 12V is going straight to ground. It sounds like it's a big one too, if it drains your battery that fast. From your description, I'm going to guess it involves the charging circuit (alternator/regulator) but don't assume that's right. Here's what I would do: (1) Charge the battery and put a voltmeter across the posts; you should read about 12.6V (11.5-12.5 is good enough) (2) Turn the key on and check it again. It shouldn't hardly change at all. (3) Start the car and check it again. It should go up to 13-14V if alternator is working. (4) While it's running, touch all the wires you cna reach; the alternator, starter, etc. It's possible one will be getting hot. If you find a hot wire in #4, there's your culprit. If #3 is low, the problem's in the charging (alternator, regulator, battery ) hookup, or possibly even the ign switch. If #1 is low, it could be anywhere; disconnect all the lights, horns, etc, and see if you can isolate the faulty wire/device by reconnecting them one at a time. Electrical problems can be a nightmare, but they are diagnosable if you do it deliberately and methodically. I would bet from your description it is in the alternator harness and your car is just running off the battery when it runs. Good luck!

No, you definitely should not have voltage on your steering column. It appears you've got 2 problems. First, your steering column should be at ground, like the rest of your chassis. So it seems the steering column is electrically disconnected from the chassis. Second, there would have to be a short in the steering column, a hot 12 volt wire shorting to the column. I find the first part hard to believe (though not impossible) since the screws and bolts holding it provide the ground; ..it seems like you should have fuses blowing.

Yeah, by "302-2V" I meant my car was originally a 2-barrel, too, but I switched over to the 4-barrel setup. Tom's right, a 2-barrel will perform just fine on the street but most of us end up going the Tim Allen "more power" route. The 4-barrel conversion is a simple matter of spending few Benjamins and a Saturday afternoon. The header issue a long-standing gripe among Mustang owners. Yes, they make a lot of headers and most of them can be made to work. If you want headers, rest assured you can get some and they will be ok. It just might take some work. Small blocks are easier. Clutch linkages and power brakes can be a pain. When you find a good-looking setup, ask the guys here, you'll probably get some good feedback. Good luck!

There's any number of intakes that will bolt right up to your 302. Edelbrock, Offenhauser, Weiend, Ford Motorsports, etc. I run a period correct (meaning 40-yr old) Edelbrock F4B aluminum high-rise and a Holley 600 on my 302-2V vert and it does a fine job. You might try looking at the Summit Racing site (www.summitracing.com) to get an idea on what's out there. Punch in your car's description (1969 302 Mustang) and browse the results. While we're on the subject, a lot of folks feel 600 cfm is probably too big for a 302 (and they're basically right). But everybody runs them (including me) and they work fine if you tune them right. Plus they're common as dirt and easy to find....

Thanks for the kind words guys but I'm just a hobbiest. There's guys out there that could put the eyelashes on that wooden pony. Now if I can just figure out how to paint my real Mustang nice...

Here's a more detailed shot. The JPEG is bigger than life-size (it's really the size of a 1968 fender badge). Not perfect, but not bad for an amateur knock off, I think.

While searching in response to a recent post, I discovered that PG Classics in New Brunswick Canada is now reproducing the chrome hockey stick moldings for 69-70 verts. This is a first, they've never been reproduced before AFAIK. My original plan was to rechrome mine, as they're not too bad, but after some debate, I ordered a set of the repops instead (they're about the same price as a re-chrome job, and I didn't have to fret about a bad or overpriced chrome job) Well, I got them today, and the quality is good. I'd recommend them to anybody with pitted or broken moldings. Not cheap, but what is in this hobby???

I went with the kit below from Comp Cams (this is a nice streetable cam for a mild warm-over). I didn't really trust myself to mix and match the components but it certainly can be done. As mentioned, you want a retro setup (smaller base circle) and not one designed for a factory roller. I think the link bar lifters are nicer but I'm happy with the spider. The spider simply requires you to drill and tap two small holes in the block. Everything else is drop in. I also added a set of roller tip rockers to top it off. (edit: Sorry I just noticed you've got a 351, not a 302 like mine) 302 Windsors http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K31-432-8/ 351 Windsors (not all are rollers, just the "retro-fit" ones): http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=Comp%20Cams%20K35&dds=1

I have a 302 convertible and I regret putting a 2-1/2" system on it. Fitment is really tight on a vert. Unless you're running a high performance (really high-performance) engine, I think 3" is way overkill. There's even evidence that running pipes that are too big hurts performance more than it helps.

Yeah, I e-mailed them and asked if they were going to offer more and by the time they replied (saying "yes") they had listed 5 more sets.

Tom, there's no stupid questions anymore because I already asked all of them. So stop apologizing. You're right about the toploader - there's no filter and no dipstick. The automatic trannys have filters because all those small ports and orifices can get mucked up by dirt and malfunction. The manual trannys just swim in the oil so no filtering. I just filled my 3-speed with 80W gear oil. I used synthetic but some folks say old-school oil is better for our cars. As far as filling, I was always told the rule of thumb was fill it until you could feel it with the tip of your finger in the fill hole (same way I fill my rototiller). A shop manual capacities chart would give you the exact amount you need though (i'll see if I can find mine) You can buy a hand pump with a flexible tube to fill it in the car. Or drop the tranny of course. I probably wouldn't worry about it. Get it running and then assess how well the tranny works/sounds after it's driving. good luck and keep us posted. I think you got a great deal on that GT

You might want to remove the distributor and spin the oil pump drive shaft for a while to pre-lube everything (like you would on a fresh rebuild). After 19 years, gravity's removed all the oil from the rotating assembly.

While I debated whether or not to buy the repro's, the seller on eBay sold out (5 sets). If anybody on the forum bought a set I'd be interested in the fit and finish and overall quality. It's a no-fuss option to getting mine re-chromed and it's about the same price.

Stangme, thanks for the kind words! Reese, Coz, I'll see what I can do. Pak, I'll post a bigger JPG when I get on my "good" computer!

LOL! You're right, my pony's running in the wrong direction!:scared:

Cool. Keeping it original equipment is always good in my book. And you can make big horsepower from a Windsor these days. Have fun!

Finally, this old fart got an avatar. One of my other hobbies is woodworking and I made a pony out of maple, cherry, and walnut.!

The Marti report should include it. The 69 GT is a very rare breed. In my humble opinion, $3400 is a good price if it's a real GT (a big "if"). The Mach I killed the GT package and not many were built in 1969. Of those built, I gotta believe the majority were sportsroofs, followed by convertibles, then coupes. How many GT coupe's could there be? GT's got the pop open gas cap, larger engine (no 302's), stripes, hood scoop w/turn signals, hood pins, heavy duty suspension and dual exhaust. Your description says it's got the right engine, stripes and gas cap. The other stuff could be lost thru the years. Of course, does it matter if no one except us zealots here care? Would anybody pay a premium for it even if it's rarer than a 1963 Corvette? I don't know but it would be a cool piece of history and a sweet car; stroking that 351 with it's toploader and 3:25 rear end gears would be a potent cruiser.

My car's got the manual top and my Dad had a manual top '69 back in the 70's and they both have/had the smooth trim. Unless it's a Canada-only thing (which would make it a very rare and desirable option) I can't think of a reason for the difference either. On the positive side, if you can find a donor '69 or '70 vert, it's possible the stainless part is salvageable. At future car shows, I know I am going to pay attention to the door glass and convertible molding for educational purposes :biggrin:

Welcome aboard. This sounds like a fun project. The shock towers are a known weak spot on our cars but as you mentioned there are plenty of options available in the aftermarket. I like the idea of a stroked 351 and a T-5 myself but there's lots of options. Keep us posted and post lots of pictures. This is a good forum, I;ve learned tons here.... btw, I'm gonna assume it's a sportsroof?

Yeah, it's first time I ever saw them, too - it looks like they're a brand new offering. I'm now debating the re-chrome vs buy 'em decision ... I agree about the studs, Flight, I just assumed that you had them laying upside down. Looking at the photo again it looks like maybe somebody modified them with studs, maybe for a custom boot cover ..

hmmm, you made me curious so I searched and found this (they're Canadian, too).... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-70-Mustang-Cougar-Convertible-Belt-Molding_W0QQitemZ370243157292QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5634363d2c&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245