69RavenConv
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44
Posts posted by 69RavenConv
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Ok, I misunderstood. I will look at my factory original bow tomorrow. I would assume the strip was glued into the bow but I'm probably wrong.
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I still use the OEM which is soft and accepts staples readily. I would expect the replacement to be soft and accept staples like the original, certainly not metal. The front strip was toast on my car and I used a length of plastic body side molding that they sell at any auto parts store and it works well. I see West Coast Cougars sells something similar for the back, you may want to look into a section that? I would assume it's a good size to fit in the rear bow and it's cheap.
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Google tells me Northwest Mustang is now called Classic LEDs (classicleds.com). I'd probably try to contact them to see if they can replace the flasher. That might also explain your tail light issues.
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It might be possible but only @bswor has the super-powers needed to do it.
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Welcome back!. Been lusting after one of those lifts myself.:)
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Did we forget to lock the back door again?
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Welcome to the site! The deluxe, woodgrain dash would have come with the round rally clock. The standard, black dash would have come with the rectangular clock. Both styles could also be ordered with no clock at all. I'm not familiar with any type of square clock in a '69, GT or otherwise.
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Please send them home. :)
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On 12/20/2023 at 3:22 PM, AusTex70 said:Iam battling this issue - any udate on this from @demon69
I just replaced mine this last summer. I tried the sheet metal shim on the OEM and it worked but ended up replacing it with a new one just to be safe. If the new one lasts 50 years like the old one it will be someone else's problem :)
My problem was the spring had fatigued to the point I had to stand on the brake pedal to get the lights to come on. The new one lights them with a very light touch. As mentioned above, there is a different switch for power brakes and non-power brakes, so make sure you get the correct one.
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Confirm the choke is opening? Any evidence of running rich or lean? I agree about bypassing the resistor wire.
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It is according to the label on the one I bought years ago.
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It's been a while since I did mine and I remember it is a bit of a Rube Goldberg setup but I'm pretty sure I managed it the way it's shown on the averagejoerestoration.com page.
(Sorry, site won't allow me to post the link)
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Like just about everybody, I live in an area where mice are a problem in the cold months. I fight them every year but I had a small bit of damage to my vert last winter. This year I'm upping my game but it often feels like a losing battle. But I keep fighting :)
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19 hours ago, rwcstang said:ah duped, AI Bot?
Very likely. Will our new friend come back with a build thread?
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Lots of unobtanium parts on a Grande.
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Haha, pretty clearly a photoshopped '69.
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FWIW, I get the same message, and I'm running the same computer I have for years. Ghost in the machine.
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This thread from VMF may be some help.
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/70-back-up-lights-switch-cable-where-is-it.1060385/
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I believe the door glass is the same across all models. In 1970 they switched the weatherstrip and put it on the rear window instead of the front. Is it possible you've got a mix of 69 and 70 glass? Bad picture of a 69 and 70 side by side.
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26 minutes ago, potato said:Is there some magic voodoo to be able to slide the vertical guide rods backwards?
Yes, like just about everything on our cars manufactured in the 60's, there are adjustments built in. I don't agree 100% with the West Coast Cougar video but it's basically sound advice. Assuming you've measured correctly and the one inch is on the right side of the equation, you can adjust the guide rods by loosening a bolt on the bottom of the door.
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Bandwidth issue
in The Garage
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Thanks, Ben that sounds like a good plan. Hope everything goes smoothly.