69RavenConv

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I'm still amazed nobody's reproduced authentic vintage belts. I just went steel wool and paint on the buckles and Woolite to clean the belts. Although they say the belts are man-made materials and degrade with time and should be replaced.

I've been told that hollywood has a stable of "stunt cars" they use and re-use and they don't really wreck as many authentic old cars as it appears.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna look into your setup ND69.

Agree with previous posters, it's tough to find out. Having said that, it's unlikely a dealer would modify the brake system or change the interior; they would simply order you another car with those options from the factory. Dealer options were usually things that were routinely stocked by the parts department or could be swiped from another car on the lot -- racing mirrors, deluxe wheels or wheelcovers, radios, chrome moldings, that kind of thing. Your extensive upgrades were probably the work of previous owners scavenging donor parts. Of course, strange things have been known to happen in this hobby, so I suspect somebody will prove me wrong with their dealer installed 428SCJ, GT rims, Grande sound deadener, and Torino instrument cluster....

I've got a 302 vert that I've converted to dual exhaust and I'm not happy with my hanger setup. I started out buying the Mustang catalog's "factory dual exhaust hanger kit" and it wasn't right for a 69. I know the original 69 duals were a transverse setup and like most people I have the conventional dual mufflers & tailpipes. So I bought an assortment of Autozone hillbilly hangers and made them work with hangers at the mufflers and tailpipes but I keep thinking there's a cleaner way. Anybody got a setup they are really happy with and proud of??? I'd love to see some pic's or tips on what hangers to use and where to mount them. Thanks folks!

I don't know if cheap is the right word, just plastic. They probably work fine, especially in a fair-weather only car. I've still got them, brand new, if you want them Hawkdriver, PM me your address and I will send them to you free.

I ordered that mounting hardware from CJ's and (as you can see in their picture) they are plastic press-in inserts. I didn't like the feel of them so I used real aluminum rivnuts instead. You can get a cheap rivnut tool and a box of rivnuts from Harbor Freight for about $20. The plastic ones may hold up just fine, but I didn't trust them. Just my 2cents

Nah, the Duraspark was designed to operate on system voltage. When the voltage is on the high side, the extra energy is dissipated as heat. If you added a regulator, you'd have the same issue when the voltage is high, plus the added problem that it wouldn't operate when the voltage got down under 12.5-13V. It's alway been an issue with automotive electronics.

I had a buddy back in the day (early 1970's) that ran dual Holley 750's on a 289. Of course it was a full tilt drag car; the first car I ever saw pull the front wheels off the ground. It was a pristine 1968 GT 390, really pretty car, that some nimrod blew the engine in, so Tom picked it up cheap and dropped in the 289 ... but I can't see dual quads working on a small block street car. He later stated he wished he went with a big block instead, but it was still a pretty impressive car.

Yes, definitely, this is a good place to do it!

Welcome to the site, David. It's actually a bit of a buyer's market these days, what with the economy and all, so your odds are good. I would suggest browsing the usual sources; eBay, your local paper, Craig's list, etc... 69 sportsroofs (the correct name for 69 fastbacks :) are plentiful. When you find one, pass it by the folks on this site. The friendly experts here will immediately be able to tell you if it's real, fake, overpriced, a deal, rare, desireable, etc. We just watched a member by a real GT coupe for a song, so good deals are out there. Good luck and happy hunting!

You can run the radio power straight to the battery if you want. I would use the stock radio connector in the dash because it's both fused and switched off with the key. Google "69 Mustang wiring diagram" to find out which wires you may want to use. BSWOR has one posted on the 69stang site here also.

That's a good one. When you put the connectors together, are you sure the pins inside are really touching?? Are you sure the polarity is right? Another possibility is sometimes when a wire is in rough shape, measuring the open circuit volts will look ok but when you put a real load on it, the voltage drops way off. Maybe try running 2 pieces of wire between the connector pins (just jam them in each pin) and see if it works. That's the only other thing I can think of.

Sorry Pak but the picture is right. There's 12V at the ignition switch side of the pink wire, but only 6V at the other end, which is coil+. So the picture's right. If you hook the Pertronix to +coil you're only getting 6V . But, like you said, if you swap the Ford 6V coil for an aftermarket 12V coil, you can throw away the pink wire and everything's at 12V, no worries, hook the module up either place.

Pull the wire on the oil pressure sender, fuel sender, or temperature sensor. Measure DC volts from the wire to chassis. It should have CVR voltage on it (5-8VDC). I bet something on the back of the cluster is shorting the CVR to ground. The posts on the back of the gauges can't touch the edge of the openings they stick thru, for example.

Agree with ForceFed, it can't hurt to inquire.

Here's some actual diagrams. http://www.mustangbarn.com/vacuum.html You can bypass the vacuum control valve altogether and connect the distributor directly .... retard (back) to manifold, advance (front) to ported. Or, you can use the advance side only. You've got options.

The EXP was just a "sporty" variation of the Escort. You should be able to find shop manuals for the early Escorts, they sold a bazillion of them. Ironically, the first new car I ever bought was a 1982 EXP with AM/FM cassette and if I knew the radio would fit my '69 I would have saved it before I got rid of the car....matter of fact, I had a Chilton's manual for it, I'll see if I can find it and if I can, I'll see if it's got wiring diagrams....

Most likely corrosion. If your bottle was missing for any length of time, then the connector probably hung in the elements, slowly corroding. Try cleaning up the contacts and see if it helps..

Even if your choke is out of whack, a car that recently ran ok should still try to fire. Sputter, kick, pop, maybe, but at least try. And your fuel pump sounds fine. A total 'no start' like you describe is either a spark or fuel problem. I'm going to assume it's not a spark problem since it was running recently. Fuel problems can be either too much (rich) or too little (lean). If you get a strong gas smell or vapors wafting out of the carburetor, then you're too rich*. If you're not rich, try pumping the gas while you crank (gently at first, don't overdo it) to richen the mix using the accelerator pump. If it still doesn't sputter, you need to consult a carburetor expert. *you can pull a spark plug and see if it's wet with gasoline

It sounds like you've connected the radio power (red wire) to a dash-light circuit in the Mustang. Maybe you used the radio light bulb wire for power?? (it's yellow, I think). The red wire on the radio should go to a switched 12V source, orange goes to constant 12V (battery), and black to ground. (you can jumper orange to red and radio will work fine but it will lose it's memory every time you turn off the key) The absolute best way is to find the 2-pin connector the stock radio uses, and splice your red and black radio wires to that. You might have to use a meter to see which pin is hot and which is ground (turn the key on first!). Constant power for orange is available at the ignition switch or you can run a wire to the hot side of the starter solenoid. Good luck, let us know what you find... (I'm getting the wire colors here: http://www.casmfg.com/Wire_Diagrams.htm)

Yeah, $600 is outrageous for an ignition setup unless you're building a quarter-miler. Buy a stock cap, wires and rotor and spend another $80 for a pertronix setup to replace the stock points and condenser. Then enjoy the ride!

MSD makes good stuff, no doubt, you see a lot of them on the high performance builds. But they're not cheap. I'm not familiar with putting a Duraspark in a classic but it sounds like a perfectly decent alternative, there's lots of old Durasparks in the junkyards. Pertronix is another a good option. Not high-performance, but it's cheap and easy to install. Good for a weekend cruiser. It all depends on what you're looking for.

I've never installed one but I seem to recall reading about ground problems. The taillight buckets are mounted in big rubber gaskets and aren't always grounded well unless the black wire off the bulb connector is screwed to the trunk floor. If that wire is loose or the buckets are just laying loose in the trunk you may not have good ground. Even regular bulbs don't work if that wire's loose. Just my 2c, but you might try clipping a jumper wire from the bucket to the gas tank or chassis...