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Fordrevhead

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Everything posted by Fordrevhead

  1. Look at this on eBay: Autolite 4300 carburetor C90F-D 351w 1969 Ford Fairlane http://bit.ly/OiFHvz
  2. Remaining: 1970 Mustang or cougar non console dash mounted ash tray with bracket and slide with untested light and light harness. $15 + ride. Will fit 69 as far as I know as well. 1970 Mustang Glovebox, complete with lower dash mounting bracket, hinge, face plate, liner, strap, latch, catch and used hardware. $15 + ride. 69 is the same. 1970 C4 shift down and column lockout rods. D0ZA-7E330-M From a 1970 C4 302 Mustang. Media blasted as shown. Everything is there. $40 + ride for both.
  3. some sold, some updated information: pair of 65 289 heads maybe several pair, rebuildables Date codes 4G27 pair and 4A9 pair pair of 302 heads, rebuildables 1L10 PAIR pair of 70 302 exhaust mans D0OE-9430-D and D0OE-9431-D pair of 66 289 exhaust mans C6OE-9430-C and C6OE-9431-C SOLD>>71-73 SB PS bracket oem D1ZA-3C511-AB now on ebay Bunch of 2v carb spacers oem SOLD>> a 4v 65-66 FE carb spacer/heat exchanger oem C5AE-9A589 71 2v intake sb 66 2v intake sb 73 2v intake sb SOLD>>75 manual sb bell D5DA-6394AB, I also have the fork and the proper sb engine plate for this 66 manual sb bell C5AA-6394-B 64 timing cover C4OE-6059-A 65 timing cover C5OE-6059-A1 Sealed Power NOS HV Oil Pump 224-41128 M88 NOS HV Oil Pump SOLD>>68 J code 4v intake C8ZE-9425-A 65 long shaft 3 speed toploader (wide pattern 8 hole case) C5AR 7006 SOLD>>68 short shaft 3 speed toploader (wide pattern 8 hole case) SOLD>>an FMX Trans Three 65 289 short blocks: C5AE-6015E date code 6F23R C5AE-6015E date code 4G29C KEEPING>>C5AE-6015E date code 4M7W KEEPING>>pair of Autolite 4100 carbs C6AL, 1.12 Venturi C5AF-F 1.12 Venturi an Autolite 4300 carb C90F-D 351w 69 Fairlane 3 or 4 distributor cores SOLD>>65 -68 sb alternator bracket C5AZ-10156-A on ebay
  4. Here is why I wont be going. On Friday we had ice and they were dumping sand and salt on the roads. This is what I woke up to this morning! Arrgh, I knew the date was too early!
  5. IMO The main reason to do the paint first is so that you can immediately put your engine in when it's completed and run it... No warranty on machine work, balancing, etc when 3 yrs transpire waiting to drum up body and paint money.
  6. Yeah water injection will rid of carbon for sure! I was given a 1968 Briggs push mower a few years back. Original metallic green deck with Kmart sticker on it. They don't make them like they used to! Anyway, I got it to run but it had no power and was knocking and wouldn't rev up. I yanked the muffler and pipe off as well as the breather. Misted the water hose over the carb and it started bucking and jumping across the driveway. Black chunks started shooting out the exhaust hole and I was able to increase the throttle with response as it went. Soon it cleared up and was smooth at full bore! Fresh plug and air filter and I used that mower for 3 or 4 years without fail until I mistakenly ran it over with my truck.
  7. Cool, thanks for sharing. I like the formula but testing to your ear is ultimately what counts. You could calculate then hit a pretty good range both ways with a telescoping snub pipe too.
  8. It took me a bit to find it, but read this and buy a diode, it might be the cheapest fix ever! http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3296 Make sure your secondaries aren't dumping ANY fuel at idle. If your plugs look good, richen up your mixture and drop the idle. You can also put a throttle solenoid on it to close the throttle plate completely. Do you know if your cam was degreed? Your initial timing being so high could be doing it too. In the meantime shutting it down in gear might help.
  9. This is for cooling the Exhaust Crossover Passage (which is just below this hole between the two center bolts). It should be a blind hole that simply increases the cooling surface area to relieve heat from the cylinder head’s exhaust crossover passage. I am no Cleveland expert but engineering tells me that if oil is truly coming out of there you likely have a cracked head and perhaps some blowby. Lets hope the blind hole is just being filled by a VC leak and then heating up and spattering out. I would clean the holes out good with brakeleen and a turkey baster. Then make sure your pcv is working and throw some VC gaskets on it. I'd like to hear some other opinions and the outcome.
  10. Did you check that the coil doesnt have power with the key off? What carb are you running? That would be where I would go next. Ethanol eaten metering block gaskets, etc. do you know the CR and what gas are you running?
  11. May end up making my own depending on exhaust clearance, pinion angle, etc but I need one for mock up for my 70. Thanks
  12. Pair of oem FoMoCo 1969 only tail light buckets usable driver quality or repaint or have blasted and plated. $15 + ride. 1970 Mustang or cougar non console dash mounted ash tray with bracket and slide with untested light and light harness. $15 + ride. Will fit 69 as far as I know as well. 1970 Mustang Glovebox, complete with lower dash mounting bracket, hinge, face plate, liner, strap, latch, catch and used hardware. $15 + ride. 69 is the same. 1970 C4 shift down and column lockout rods. D0ZA-7E330-M From a 1970 C4 302 Mustang. Media blasted as shown. Everything is there. $40 + ride for both. Alternator brackets from a 1970 Ford Mustang 302. Media blasted oem including 3 bolts, spacer, fixed bracket and adjustable bracket. $20 + ride. Pair of inner 1969 inner headlight doors in vg condition no cracks, scuffs or broken tabs. Also throwing in two trim rings I believe to be oem. One is vg the other has one mtg brkt broken off. Also one T3 headlight included. $25 + ride.
  13. Received today! Better than I thought! Thanks!
  14. Paid, thanks (spring perches and pivot shafts)
  15. I would take the spring perches and pivot pins for a roller conversion but dont need or want to pay shipping on the entire uca's if you would seperate. Shipping to 12972. Thanks!
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