dennyb68

The fan is 15 1/2 X 24" and just under 3" thick.. My plan is to wire this up and if one fan fails the other will still run. I like the clean look under the hood with the electric and the safty when working under the hood. From what I've read these fans are awesome. This sucker really pulls the air if any birds fly within 5 feet it will suck them into the radiator. I will run a controller. I had these other fans already and the shroud so i'm out nothing except the $30 I spent on the fan..The advantage is 10 HP from what I can come up with.. .

I bought the contour fan and I'm going to give it a try. 30.00 at the bone yard. It was a major pita to get it out but I got it. it fits the radiator perfectly

I had an electric fan fail on the other engine and things got pretty hot before I was able to get pulled over and shut it down. I want to change over to the blade and shroud just so I know that when the engine is running the fan is moving air. The fan that failed was a slim design that mounted in the center of the radiator and worked well before it failed. The fan that I replaced it with was thicker and I had to mount it to the right side of the radiator so about 1/3 of my radiator has no air from the fan flowing thru it.

I'm going to get rid of my electric fan and run a blade does anyone see any problems or have any horror stories with this style fan?

Yup I did it over the fenders the 1st time and that wont happen again!! My pics are too big to load onto the site. I will try to shrink them.

after some headaches with my stroker build today it went back in with the headers attached. What a time saver just a little FYI in case anyone wonders if it can be done.Now back at it to get these 422 ponies roaring..

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=6744&highlight=born here is another thread that was started awhile back with most of that info on it.

Left Dearborn 12/27/68 2 months after I was born..

69's used elastic sewed onto the shoulder belts that hooked to a coat hook towards the front of the car.

Okay I saw MustangGT's gauges in person and they look awesome. The only problem I saw with them is he didn't buy a set for me. Okay Bro post up some pics dammit.

I took all of the front trim off and reinstalled without removing the head light buckets..

You asked for the best and my vote would be Sanderson's. I had a set of the flowtec's and they fit ok but they leaked very poor welds at the flang. The sandies are awesome a little pricey but they don't leak and they fit like a glove. Some of the headers for the Cleveland will hang real low if you get the long tubes.

I think they are factory 70 hubcaps with the center insert missing.

I smell it at the track all the time.

I've been running halogen for a few years and have no issues with the factory wiring.

I think it depends on the water pump you use.

I have that chrome one you can have back.You could paint it

I have a space saver in mine and of course I will never use it. Hello Flat Bed take me home...

A good tip is to install the screws for the visors coat hooks and window trim before you install the headliner then all you have to do is find the screw heads and cut a tiny X on the head of the screw to push it through the headliner.

Yes that is your chassis ground

so is the guy flying the bird in the right of your picture flying it at you or everyone that looks at the pic??? Hmmmm... Oh and I just love the oval turn signals instead of the originals.

The stat on a Cleveland is not like the common stat. There should be a plate under the stat with a hole about the size of a nickel. The Robert Shaw Cleveland thermostat Is part # 333-180 is the correct one it has a "hat" that when open closes off the hole.It's there to make sure most of the coolant passes through the radiator, and not just through the block when the thermostat is open. When the thermostat is closed, the hole in the plate allows the coolant to still circulate through the block. The plate serves the same purpose as the thermostat by-pass hose used on all other engines. Without the plate in place, when the thermostat is open, too much water will be allow to just circle through the block, without going through the radiator first.

x2 on the wratcheting end wrench i was able to get mine off and back on without the brackets being loosened

If you remove the chrome wont you will still have the mounting holes for the clips that hold the chrome?

On mine it looks like that hooks to the battery side the left one in your photo towards the front of the car. I do have a different kind of connector on mine it has rubber around the connector where the wire hooks to it.