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jfried

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Posts posted by jfried

  1. Posted · Report reply

    It's with mixed emotions that I've decided to put my 69 convertible up for sale / ebay. Car is located in Toronto, Canada.

     

    The car is an excellent driver, has 99k miles, featuring:

    - 302 V8 motor, mated to a C4 automatic transmission, no issues starting, you could daily drive this car.
    - Blue vinyl interior, complete with center console
    - White vinyl power top
    - Power disc brakes added up front
    - Rim blow steering wheel
    - AM Radio
    - 17 inch eagle alloys polished torque thrust style wheels. I also have a set of 14" Mach1 Style Rally Wheels, which can be swapped upon buyer's request.
    - Deluxe Marti Report

     

    Link to the ebay listing. So far no bids, if somebody from here wants to make me an offer before I get any bids, I'm willing to sell for $24,500.

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/291670104350?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

    OliviaKl, reginaqu16 and alexitom reacted to this

  2. Posted · Report reply

    It's ebay's "Global Shipping Program".....

     

    Seller offers free shipping within US (whether they realize it or not, another story)... Ebay shows you the cost for them for them to act as a middle-man. You pay sales tax + shipping fees to pitney bowes.

     

    The nice thing about it -- is no UPS brokerage fee when the item shows up.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I also think adding the Unisteer rack was the best mod I’ve done to my car.  The improvement in feel really puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel now.  I can’t recommend enough to go rack-n-pinion if you like to play on twisty roads like I do. 

     

    As I recall I needed to do a little die grinding on the supplied support brace for a bolt clearance.  Ten minutes and a little black paint and it was good to go. 

     

    Kyle T

     

    I also think adding the Unisteer rack was the best mod I’ve done to my car.  The improvement in feel really puts a smile on my face every time I get behind the wheel now.  I can’t recommend enough to go rack-n-pinion if you like to play on twisty roads like I do. 

     

    As I recall I needed to do a little die grinding on the supplied support brace for a bolt clearance.  Ten minutes and a little black paint and it was good to go. 

     

    Kyle T

     

    Did you do the power rack as well? or manual?

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I went with the Ididit column and it worked out great. ZERO regrets on this system, and honestly would rank this one of my favorite mods for driving the car. If I measured turning radius I am sure there would be some, but from the driver seat, its hard to tell. I have not had one circumstance were low turning radius has caused me any issues. In fact, it feels better since I don't have to me moving to start turning the wheel like I did with the old non power set up.

     

    Great.

     

    Seems like that's the direction I'm leaning... they seem to be the best price out there when you consider that everything is included.

     

    Which ididit column did you use?

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I would recommend a replacement box with integral power, such as Borgeson, Flaming River or the new CPP box.

     

    They have 14:1 steering ratio, which is a nice improvement over stock, and quickens the steering to more modern feel and standards/expectations  Be sure and get the faster ratio 14:1.

    Your center link, tie rods, and turning circle remain stock, unaltered.

    Fits in the same space as the old manual box

    Works with a stock power steering pump, brackets and pulleys, if you want to keep the stock look. (Borgeson will, not sure on CPP or FR)

    Less complex hose arrangement than stock PS.

    Fairly economical choice compared to R&P.

     

    I don't know much about electric power steering, so cant make comment or compare.

     

    Adding a roller idler arm will help smoothness

     

    There are some nice choices around.  I have R&P fitted to two cars.  One is great, one is just OK. Both new, high quality kits specific for the model.  Good, but not amazing for the money. 

     

    I've read that a borgeson box doesn't work with a tilt column, is that true or a myth?

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I opted for the unisteer system when I upgraded my suspension. Bolted right up. I enlarged the holes they had for the LCA eccentric bolts cause I used eliminators, but other than that no issues bolting it up. I also went with a Tilt column and new wheel and could not be happier. My old non power steering was wore out and somewhat scary to drive. Love the feel of the rack, especially with the bigger tires I am running and the weight of a big block. I don't feel like I have been to the gym after driving the car any more.

     

    Interesting... what tilt column did you use? any regrets with the system? How did it impact turning radius?

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have a couple of questions before my recommendation

     

    Is your car a factory manual steering car ?   And is it still that way now, with factory manual center link and steering box?

     

    Tilt column?

     

    Rag joint connection between the steering column shaft and steering box?

     

    While you are down there, can you take a picture of the box, maybe note the markings  (will be something like SMB-K)

     

    Stock spindles?

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    As far as I understand, the car is completely as equipped in 1969 from a steering perspective... no tilt... manual steering.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    So many choices!  There is never  a simple yes or no answer, unless  I am offered a cold beer!  I installed a Randalls rack 10 years ago when they were much cheaper. It bolted right on, maybe had to drill a couple holes.  No bump steer issues with it, but the turning radius is reduced a bit. It is a huge improvement in drivability, been fairly pleased with it since. Like previously mentioned, it is based on the GM rack system from mid size early 90's GM cars.   It would be cheap to go with the factory system, there are a lot of us who took it off to put in a rack system, and sell the old system for pennies. Nobody wants them.

     

    Did you convert to power at the time?

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Yeah, I'm leaning towards modernizing.... the question is,

     

    I'm not sure I would recommend the install of original components. My car was an original PS car and I had everything rebuilt by a reputable restorer here in the area. Its 'ok'....in hindsight, I think I would look at R&P

     

    Yeah, I'm leaning towards modernizing with Rack & Pinion, but also am getting a bit of sticker shock on the price tag...

     

    Seems like the rack kits are approximately $2000, add a tilt column and it's another $500, plus what else is required to fit a power rack to a non-PS car?

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Bob, I guess I should've put that info in as well.

     

    My mechanic skills are pretty much limited to bolt-in installations, and I don't have a lift... if I need to get my mechanic to do the conversion though, that is something I'm prepared to do. In terms of money, my preference is to not spend $2000 after it's all said and done, but I want to do it right, and put something in something that I'm not going to be pulling out in a couple of years. I don't care at all about originality, as my eventual / gradual plans are to resto-mod the car into a pro-touring style.

     

    Also, if I can find a system that helps eliminate the "slack" in the stock system, I certainly wouldn't mind that as well.

     

    Jason

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hello All,

     

    I'm new to the Classic Mustang world, having just picked up a 1969 302 Automatic Acapulco Blue Convertible!

     

    It's an older restoration (~10 years) but has been kept in impeccable shape. The car is a pretty base car, but was upgraded with power brakes (front discs) when the restoration was done.

     

    Having now completed some reasonable driving with the car, one thing that I think requires some immediate attention is some form of power steering... so my question is, what are the common / reccomended retrofits? I know there's a couple of electric kits out there for ~$1500, the Saturn Vue electric retrofit for ~$200, and I'd imagine a bunch more using traditional power steering pumps.

     

    My goal is really to improve everyday street livability, and also hopefully gain a tilting column in the process.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for all the help guys.

     

    Here's what I've got:

     

    Dash tag is visible, matches. (I guess i just didn't notice it before)

    Door tag is obviously visible, and what I was going off initially.

    He's got an album of the restoration of the car, including a picture of the vin from when the fender was off.

     

    I'm reasonably satisfied, even though I am still having trouble understanding why somebody would put a total v6 drivetrain into a v8 car...

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Maybe at some point it was registered as a 6cyl for insurance reasons? Would make sense. The Vin that Dave pointed out is on the passenger side, where the fender mounts, where the shock is. Yes the fender would most likely have to be removed.

     

    Ok.

     

    So the VINs I'm looking for are:

     

    -Driver Door Tag - verified.

     

    -Tag near the passenger side hood hinge, or on the rad support near the battery.

     

    -On the dash driver side (where modern cars have their vin?) -- Will it be visible without removing dash pad?

     

    -One under the passenger side fender (car is in a restored condition so I doubt the fender is coming off).

  18. Posted · Report reply

    So, I just got off the phone with our version the DMV.

     

    Apparently, they looked up the VIN in one of their systems (Veena?) and confirmed that it was an 8. It could've been changed by simply stating it was a 6 during one of the vehicle's transfers, and the government of ontario has history on it back to 1976.

     

    So I guess there's one of 2 possibilities here:

     

    1. The car was born a 6, re-vinned (stolen?), and sold later as a v6. When registering, somebody would've put 6cyl, and it got changed.

     

    2. The 8 was replaced with a 6 way back... and then re-replaced with an 8 more recently. 

     

    My first instinct, even though this guy seems quite trustworthy (an older gentleman, I saw the car at his home), is option 1 -- who replaces an 8 with a 6???

     

    But, according to the dataplate, trans is 1 which would be 3 speed manual. I didn't check to see what the transmission he had on the floor was, but he did have an extra toruqe converter sitting on the shelf... obviously manual trans means no torque converter.

     

    Second thought, if this car had been re-vinned, I'm assuming I should run, right? The fact that it seems he's had this car for 10 years doesn't make up for that?

     

    Also, would it be possible to post pictures of exactly where I should be looking for the vin? A bit confused as to whether the passenger side fender needs to be pulled in order to see it.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Also in 69 the factory stamped the vin on the passenger side fender aprons. Some were on the fender aprons and some were on the top flat part of the shock tower as well. Make sure this matches dash vin as well. This is of course if these parts has not been replaced in the past.

     

    There was no such thing as a V6 engine in a 69 mustang it would have to be an I6 (inline). If it had a V6 it would have to come out of a later model ford car.

    Dave

     

    Sorry about that confusion... force of habit, he has an inline 6 engine sitting on the floor. It's painted blue and looks like hell, so I had no reason to question it.

     

    Looking at some youtube videos, I believe it's an 8 inch from what I remember when I looked under the car (no protrusion for ring gear).... but assuming that these VINs do all line up, what's the likely situation here?

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Everyone,

     

    First post here, i'm actually looking at buying a 1969 Mustang Convertible... and have run into an interesting question. The current owner has had it for about about 12 years, and he had it restored close to 10 years ago. He has a ton of pictures and reciepts from the restoration. He claims that when it was a v6, and he's upfront about the fact that he put a 302 in it at the time; having to swap the transmission, driveshaft, and rear axle as well to accomodate the 302. He still has the v6 engine, tranny, and DS sitting on the floor of his garage

     

    Here's the interesting / confusing thing; the VIN # is 9F03F, which as far as I understand, corresponds to a 302.car. So, my thought process would be that at some point somebody blew the original 302, and replaced it with a 6... but if that were done, why would the axle need to be swapped? Adding one more layer of confusion, the Ontario (Canada) registration lists # of Cylinders as 6. So could this be an incorreclty coded car? My other thought, would be that this is a re-VINed car, but that wouldn't explain why it's listed as a 6cyl on the registration/title.

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