CaliforniaMustang

Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. Let me know if you solved it!

When installing this manual steering adapter is it recommended to replace anything else or is it good to go? http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000016e~Z5Z5Z5ADHBA~P148.46~~~~S2OB03TPAN99355219650f~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000016e

what about a ball joint splitter?

I can see how something like that tool would be a huge headache saver, but I can't envision how it would work. As you can see from the photo, you would need to reverse what this guy is doing to push the ball stud down through the pitman arm, and there's not enough room to get that equipment in place with the motor & headers installed. I suppose I could string together a couple 20" socket extensions and route them down from the top of the motor. I got two 4lb sledge hammers from sears, gonna beat on it tomorrow :shifty:

As you can see in the photo, there's nothing left holding this manual steering adapter to the pitman arm, yet it will not budge. I tried shoving a pickle fork in there but it does nothing (can't really get any leverage anyway). What's the procedure for this?

Here's a couple shots from the rear: The hood has overall really nice paint, hoping not to respray the thing just to treat this hidden spot behind the chrome trim. Picked up some sandpaper and self-etching primer today, will post progress photos.

These are behind the chrome hood trim, each mounting hole looks about the same. I assume it's just a matter of sanding + primer, but I wasn't sure the recommended grit. And will it hurt to just use some white primer and no finishing paint? This one really pisses me off, was not like this a month ago (damn rain). I'm thinking about getting a can of POR15 and treating some of the undercarriage - do I need to do anything to this spot before applying it?

I bought a cheap-o autolite battery to replace my Optima Red Top that was needing a charge after every drive. Two weeks later this new battery is also needing a charge, so I'm trying to figure out where to begin tracking down the voltage leak. I have a multimeter, but am pretty new to diagnosing circuits etc. I drive the car about once a month, and I have replaced the battery cables, engine ground strap, voltage regulator, starter solenoid, and switched to a 1-wire alternator. I assume I hooked everything up correctly (the car runs LOL), but maybe I miswired the alternator or something... Could some random wire behind the dash cause the drain, or am I looking at the major ignition components?

quick question about por15 treatment - do yo have to scrub down to bare metal before applying it? website also recommends phosphoric acid, did you use any? looking to do the belly of my beast that has splotchy surface rust...

Problem solved! After ripping apart the entire wire harness, turns out the @$#%ing jumper wire on the neutral safety switch had disintegrated to the point of no return. Now that I think about it, unplugging the NSS might be an effective anti-theft measurement, since it took me 4 days to get the damn thing started again!

So if I want to run a completely new wires from the ignition switch to the 'S' and 'I' on the solenoid can I bypass the neutral switch and just go ignition switch ---> solenoid? And the brown wire goes straight to the coil?

The car starts when I do that! So what does that mean? The red/blue S wire is toast? What is it leading to if I don't have a neutral safety switch? Thanks!

I think it's the red/blue coming off the ignition switch? (based on my reading 11.53v only when key is in ON position). So I would just splice that and run a really long wire through the firewall to the 'S' terminal to test?

I managed to figure out that darn multimeter. I've got a 0.00 reading on the S post when the key is turned, same on the I post. A reading of 12.23 where the battery wire connects to the solenoid. So it's the wire going from the S post to the ignition switch that failed? Should I just run a completely new one or try and find the problem along the old wire? UPDATE: I checked wires coming off the back of the ignition switch - the green has 11.53 when switched to ACC and the red/blue has same when switched to ON. So that tells me the switch is good right? Just something in between the frayed wires and the solenoid?

Alright need some more NOOB help LOL. What setting should this multimeter be on? photo:

Yes, mine connects to the rear of the intake and goes to the firewall, i took a wire brush to both attachment points. I put the new ground in the same place the p.o. had it, sandwiched between the alternator mounting bolt and the block (next to the thermostat housing). The motor is a 351c, so I'm not sure if this is the recommended spot or should it be going under the engine somewhere? I just grabbed one this morning - now if I can only figure out how to work the damn thing LOL. It is a 4spd manual Thanks for the help, will report progress later today!

Long story short when I turn my key everything under the hood is dead silent as if there is no battery in the car. It was running fine one day and doing this the next. Here's what I've replaced so far: Battery 100% charged New Battery and Starter cables New Starter Solenoid New Ground Strap After browsing the internet all night I'm thinking the problem lies between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. What can go wrong between these and what should I be looking for? Thanks a million! P.S. at first I was researching problems associated with the resistor wire, but I have a Mallory Unilite module and coil, so I guess I'm not even using the pink wire? (p.o. installed it).