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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?
  2. 4 points

    U joint cap clips, help needed

    Success!! Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
  3. 3 points
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs. Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar. I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake. I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs. FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb. In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A). The '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb. Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit. The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite MODDING the BRACKET: I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight. Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand. Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru. A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw. I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed. A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture. Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint. Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic. I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts. Doug
  4. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  5. 3 points

    Cleveland Vacuum advance system

    and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  6. 3 points
    She’s back at shop to fix a few details. Her sister just arrived yesterday. 1964 Shelby Daytona Coupe Replica by Factory Five w a 289 & independent rear suspension. Can’t wait to drive her.
  7. 3 points

    The Real Truth

  8. 3 points

    69 Convertible build

    Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now.
  9. 2 points

    Not me!

    I didn't do it! I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!
  10. 2 points
    Because the measurements on these cars vary wildly from car to car, that's something you should wait to do until your suspension, hood and fenders are installed. Unless you get custom offset wheels, I'd think you'll be using wheel adapters. Plan on rolling your fenders lips. This is a 17x9 Halibrand with around 1-1/8" spacer, and 275/40 tire.
  11. 2 points

    Rotisserie Mounting

    I used a laser level to establish a datum line and measured from there according to the factory specs. I used screw jacks for micro adjustment. 8 points. Worked good.
  12. 2 points

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  13. 2 points

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    It was suggested I start a build thread for my 68 Hyland Green Fastback here by my fellow 69 buddies. After 2 builds with each of my sons on their 69 Mach 1s, I am beginning the 68 for my wife and I. Here is a starting picture of the car.
  14. 2 points

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.
  15. 2 points
    Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.
  16. 2 points

    69 mach 408w build

    i'll pass! wouldn't want to take away from the pleasure you could have! pushing on those dents, sanding for what seemed like hours.....
  17. 2 points

    70 coupe electrical issues

    That Boss is off the hook!
  18. 2 points

    In the beginning

    Heater box install.brake line maze.assembly time. Traction bars installed.
  19. 2 points

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well, for starters some states do not require an ID to vote. so just about anyone can vote there. then just look at how this mail in crap worked out. ½ this country thinks this election was stolen. the other half is content because it was in their favor. but for 4 years they cried it was Russian interference. Well what if this election has had interference by Russia, notice how all of a sudden that is no longer a problem. they used this virus as an excuse not to go out to vote, but they have no problem going out everywhere else.
  20. 2 points
    I think you have to change the top shift plate of the console. It just unbolts.
  21. 2 points
    A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
  22. 2 points

    Boss 302 shock tower reinforcements

    We all do staffy. Mike has tremendous talent, is kind enough to share his talent, and is truly a good and humble man. We are blessed to have him here. Happy Veteran's Day Mike, and all you other Vets, and thanks for your service.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points

    my 1969 project

    Alot of work today...hood aligned fenders aligned..new hood and scoop...a real pain to install and get ligned up...50 year old fenders and chinese hood..not a good match..the scoop is not a short boss... another pain...I just want to squirt some paint...wife is happy I'm working on it...been setting around for a few years...12 I think..don't get be started on hood hinges...
  25. 2 points
    Just to follow up on my own thread, I ended up going through the heater hose holes for my wiring. This worked since I have an A/C car and those heater hose holes were not used. I also mounted my controller in the glove box. I removed the liner so I can't store anything in there anymore though. I finished the install in early spring and highly recommend the 4R70W. It's a blast to drive now.
  26. 2 points
  27. 1 point

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Thanks, it’s getting there slowly
  28. 1 point
    Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).
  29. 1 point

    speedometer driven gear

    Take a look at these: https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-gears https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-calc
  30. 1 point

    how to wire the electric choke

    You could also use the female plug at the fire wall harness, currently using it on my 69 and 2- 70's
  31. 1 point

    Radiator drain solution?

    I use a garbage pail lid.
  32. 1 point

    U joint cap clips, help needed

    There is always the chisel & its friend the BFH to split the cap. :-)
  33. 1 point
    Flowmaster exhaust on my Mach1 with stock headers. https://youtu.be/1x22fNFaaW0
  34. 1 point

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    or mustang steve brackets with OEM style late model mustang hardware...
  35. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Which paint colour - help me decide

    I do like that gray with black, however probably Red would appeal to more buyers.
  36. 1 point

    69 mach1 Wheel and tire size

    I am running 215/70R-14's in front & 225/70R-14's in the rear mounted on 68/69 GT styled steel wheels. My 69 Coupe has had the Arning/Shelby UCA drop performed, it has 1" lowering front coil springs, & 4.5 mid eye leaf springs in the rear.
  37. 1 point
    A good pic is worth a thousand dollars. Even my 20 year old cheap paint job can look good in a pic.
  38. 1 point

    1969 mustang coupe project

    Put a price and pictures here so we can make up our mind ahead of time.
  39. 1 point

    Aeromotive or Tanks Inc EFI tanks?

    I used the Tanks Inc. and didn't like the lines in the trunk area but it was the only one available at the time. Unless Tanks has changed there pumps it is very noisy I changed my pump to the Aeromotive one.
  40. 1 point

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    Nice car. Is it an original "F" code 302? If you are going to do a stroker, would suggest using a late model roller cam block as the starting point. I have done several '68s and used to be a MCA '67-'68 judge, so if you run into any hard spots, happy to assist. Vic
  41. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Headlight switch finicky

    Unless someone on here recommends O'Reillys, I wouldn't suggest it. The market is flooded with cheap Chinese switches that are junk. Try National Parts Depot, they sell some of the best stuff. The problem could be in several places- the switch, dimmer, firewall connector, connections on the harnesses themselves, or the grounds. This schematic shows how it works, but is not a wire diagram, which shows how it is wired:
  42. 1 point

    70 coupe electrical issues

    Welcome to the forum Ron. How bout posting some pics of your 70 coupe, and tell us or at least me what part of the world y'all call home? I'm a curious lad.
  43. 1 point

    Covid vaccine

    Tell them it is against your spiritual beliefs to violate your body. Time to use their rules against them.
  44. 1 point

    1969 tach dash available

    And to think I bought my Tach Dash at the 1987 IOLA Swap Meet in very nice original shape WITH a good and complete dash harness for $85.00. Went back and bought a second one from the same vendor for my brother a year or two later ... don't remember what I paid for that one but doubt it was a whole lot more than paid for the 1st one !! Sometimes makes me wonder if my car is worth more in parts or whole. Doug
  45. 1 point

    Sequential tail lights for a 69

    Thank you, the exhaust is one of my favorite parts of the car.
  46. 1 point

    Help for 69 mach 1 alignment

    Any sheet metal that might have been replace on the drivers side with after market panels could cause this issue. Check the length of all the panels on that side with the other side to see if there are any differences. I had an after market door once that was too short. DreamCar is right that would be my first move is to measure the wheel base on both sides, if the drivers side comes up short because the caster is set negative then check panels.
  47. 1 point
    Maybe I missed something, but I briefly looked at your pictures in your other thread. The fan shroud you have is for a radiator with the lower hose on the passenger side. To the best of my knowledge big blocks all have the lower hose on the drivers side and the shrouds are made for that.
  48. 1 point

    Life’s Challenges

    Did what Mach1Rider suggested, she started crying!!
  49. 1 point

    Dakota Digital Install

    I'm planning on it myself. I really like that the faces mimic the OEM look.
  50. 1 point
    On the outside like the top picture. I cut a small piece of thin rubber to put in between the brace and the valence and used a stainless socket head bolt to attach it. I think they were black from the factory? All of the ones I have taken off have been rust colored though. You can't really see them when everything is bolted together unless you really look for them.

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