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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/20/2023 in all areas

  1. 5 points

    Can I buy the site?

    Seriously. I would love to take care of this place.
  2. 4 points
    Brian Conway

    Restored 69 Carb

    I got a hold of a date and numbers correct carburetor last month. Got it off ebay and after a little barter/swap I 'made an offer'. Seller accepted and I had a shop, J and J Carburetors, rebuild and restore to original specs. I Installed a choke kit, bent a new fuel line, hooked up the pcv and installed on my 69 Cobra Jet. A little fiddling around with the idle and the choke's fast idle speeds and we are back on the road. All in all I am very satisfied with how it all turned out. Gotta say the carb shop did a great job. Three weeks turn around including shipping, no extra's, ran it before sending it back and did it for the price quoted. Brian
  3. 4 points

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    PS Mach 1 rocker installed.
  4. 3 points
    Mach1 Driver

    Mustang Factoids

    A lot of these are for 69/70: https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/
  5. 3 points

    Vibration at about 45MPH

    I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car. Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around. If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes. Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.
  6. 3 points
    Ridge Runner

    Dang it anyway!

    Picked up another one of these things! This one is a 2006 GT with 120,000 miles on it ,black with black and red interior . These kids just keep messing them up and i just happen to have the parts to fix them good as new !already has new brakes all the way around and he just did the full front suspension . He fried the tranny but i just happen to have one here. I have everything to fix it ,even the black paint ...my new stable is growing ! Problem is i have enough parts to build one more ,damn it !
  7. 3 points
    Generally speaking for an original system; the curved arm is for a 69 and the straight arm is for the 70. The brake switch fits onto the brake pedal post. The switches can be for manual brakes or power brakes. Brian
  8. 3 points
    Mach1 Driver

    Trunk wiring routing.

    Thanks Dave, I'm working on it, but had a few setbacks. I much prefer the days when I was young and invincible... and too dumb to know better.
  9. 3 points

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Visited the body shop last week, making good progress. I got my NPD Ford tooling shaker hood and am happy to report that it only needed minor tweaking to get aligned. I also have billet hood hinges, apparently they needed some tweaking, I will report back on that after I go back there on Wednesday. The current work is focused on getting my Maier Racing one piece front spoiler fitted up. That is a very nice piece of work heavy fiberglass, and fits really well. Just a few things to do and it will fit fine. I was at Carlisle Ford show this weekend, and searched for a decent 1970 hood trim piece. As you know, the NOS ones are hard to find and expensive. I did have a good friend offer to let me use his to make sure the hood and headlight trim line up correctly, will be bringing that up there to the body shop on Wednesday. I also will bring my front bumper, and the associated mounting brackets up there to ensure that they clear the spoiler/valence combination and that the bumper lines up correctly. To answer the other questions.... the car will be in the paint booth twice. The first trip will be very soon, and will be the initial prime coat over the body work that has been done. Then, out of the booth, and back into the shop to be block sanded. After that back into the paint booth do do the base coat, hood stripe, and first clearcoat. In the end we will end up with 3 layers of clearcoat. The place that is doing the work is the same shop that painted my '68 coupe. The main business is called Klassic Rides. The shop where my car is located is called GunnerZ, which is a sister business to Klassic Rides. Both are located in Newton, North Carolina. Klassic Rides painted my '68, it needed a lot of work. GunnerZ is primarily paint and body for cars that don't need an extensive amount of work. My car has been "waiting in line" for 8 months to get started. The current wait time is approaching a year. But, my '68 was painted 15 years ago, and the paint job is still flawless. PIcs below of my '68 coupe in 1967 Marina Blue Metallic, a '63 Corvette in my final color of "Sebring Silver", and the ongoing work on the '70 convertible. My guess is that I will have the car back sometime in July or August.
  10. 2 points

    Russian Bots Again

    Thanks to all who got the site up and running again. This is a great group and we need to find a way to keep it going. Every time the site goes out, I feel like we just got kicked out of the Fraternity house and have no where else to go.... I hate being on Double Secret Probation... https://youtu.be/1tfK_3XK4CI?si=mbh_qhTDTzUe1CUa
  11. 2 points
    Made a new end for the rear of the frame, made it out of square tube instead of c channel like the original ,the old one had seen better days . I drilled all the holes including the bumper bracket on the end ,i have the bumper brackets here some where.
  12. 2 points

    1969 Coupe with 302 transmission?

    The simplist and without mods would be that C4, if he rebuilt it correctly. While it may not be the optimal transmission, I'll all for getting these Mustangs on the road without necessarily building the perfect car.
  13. 2 points
    69Mach1 M code

    Which pin for solenoid S terminal?

    While we're on the subject of solenoids, I would recommend to anyone who has an older Ford vehicle with the solenoid mounted on the inner fender to occasionally have someone start the vehicle while you observe the solenoid. This should be done with the ambient lighting low enough to visually observe an electrical arc if one is present, preferably at night. I had an older Mustang with the original solenoid still in it, no problems with starting at all. My Dad started the vehicle while I just so happened to be looking into the engine bay and sure enough, a large arc of electrical current ran from the housing to one of the mounting screws. After close examination I could see a small fracture had formed in the housing after about 50 years of age and heat cycling.
  14. 2 points
    Mine had the black face ,i bought it new . Mine was also on a shaker hood ,i will have to see if i can find a pic of the car ,it was a 69 Mach1 ,spring time yellow black out hood and black and gold side stripes ,and i could kick my self for ever selling it!
  15. 2 points
    Ridge Runner

    Dang it anyway!

    Been working on it when i get the time ,so not a lot ! I sanded down both doors ,the hood ,trunk lid and both front fenders ,got them primed and block sanded ,one more primer coat and a good block sand and they are ready for paint . Still have the front and rear bumper ,the side skirts and a couple of smaller pieces to sand and prime and i can start on the body . It will be painted in pieces because its black and i can do it that way so it will be painted in three stages ,body first,then the doors ,fenders ,hood and trunk lid ,then the plastic pieces . Using a new clear that cuts and bufs real easy so painting in pieces will allow me to take extra care with each piece .
  16. 2 points
    Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s Here are some resources: 1. Boosterdeweyexchange.com 2. Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing 3. The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service 4. Harmon Classic Brakes
  17. 2 points

    Bandwidth issue

    Apparently, a BOT was using enough bandwidth that the system ran out of allotted bandwidth. The service provider has apparently blocked that from happening again. But yes, more money paid to the provider would allow more bandwidth to be used per month.
  18. 2 points
    Hi all, I recently bought a replacement chrome strip for the front of my bonnet and being after-market rubbish it needed to be pulled in a fair bit at the center. As soon as I pulled it in with the lugs supplied, they pulled straight out of the soft metal. I thought I'd share the brackets I made which made life a lot easier and holds it in place nice and tight. I had to use a little bit of silastic to hold them while positioning. If they were 1/16" wider that wouldn't be necessary.
  19. 2 points

    Pie-Cut Hood

    Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here.
  20. 2 points

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Oh...the pictures of the front spoiler make it look pretty large. That is because the front bumper is not on. I will post an update once the bumper is on and correctly fitted.
  21. 2 points
    Remember ,the nut tightens to the right so if the clip is in wrong the clip will pop out when tightened
  22. 1 point

    Bluetooth radio only

    I haven't used this personally yet, but am considering it. It has pretty positive reviews around the interwebs. https://outofsightaudio.com/ There are also some dedicated bluetooth amps that can do it as well. I found the Out of Sight interesting because it's small and offers flexibility.
  23. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Hand held english wheel

    Big ass hammer always does the job ! I kind of drew up a pattern using harbor freight rollers ,if i can get some 1 3/4 tubing today i may play around with the bender and see what i can come up with .
  24. 1 point

    Trunk Lid And Spoiler Mounts

    My trunk lid is OEM as is the spoiler, both original to the car. Unfortunately, my car is an early 69 build and does not have the oval cutout. I do have a bracket but it is not like that and does not protect the deck from what has transpired in the pictures above. If I recall correctly, the owner that bought the car new had the dealership install all the spoilers and window louvers. Anyway, bought an aftermarket lid tonight that has the correct cut out for that bracket. Keeping my fingers crossed that the aftermarket lid is a good one.
  25. 1 point

    Carpet Install

    I heated up a rod for the different sized holes. Worked pretty well.
  26. 1 point


    Just wanted to confirm the caliper is on the right side. This was according to the part number. Thanks
  27. 1 point
    https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=13701 Here's a link to the host hotel booking page. The official Bash is Saturday October 5th, but guys start showing up Thursday afternoon to catch up with friends. There will be updates on the MustangSteve site up until the event.
  28. 1 point
    Trying to drill out those rivets in the cut up radiator brackets ,i broke off a drill bit! The metal is like drilling a lead steel mix and it grabs drill bits ,kind of like stainless steel ! After a few good cuss words ...did i say a few ? I got the last rivet out with a diamond grinder bit
  29. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    This 35 truck bed is a deal at 2,200.,it is un assembled but i have built at least 4 so it no problem ,it is every piece to build a complete bed and for the same price they will ad the wood floor and stainless trim . I get a little farther along and i will order one ,this is from Mack Products and they are just like the original .
  30. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    I got the two frame ends blasted and primed ,not a lot of pitting ,mainly where it had a hitch bolted over the frame but still nothing bad . The rest of the frame is heavily painted ,it was hard to blast off the ends so i am thinking the main rails will be in great shape! He cut these ends with what looks like a chop saw blade about 1/8 inch think so i will have to leave a gap when i weld them back on ,i will use a chop saw blade to space it
  31. 1 point

    hard rear suspension

    I finally went with Eaton Spring (the old Detroit Spring) and used 5 leaf springs on my '68. They have the original spring patterns from Ford, and reproduce them with high quality steel. I used the part number for the GT suspension. The car is stiff, with a firm ride, but no bouncing. I have Bilsteins. Did the same on my '70 convertible. One other possibility is that your driveshaft is binding. I had this happen years ago, because I measured my driveshaft length when the car was up in the air. Big mistake. I installed the driveshaft when the car was in the air, and it seemed to fit fine. But the car did ride and handle funny. I found this out later when my rear universal joint failed.....
  32. 1 point
    Pretty sure that was Zray on VMF. After a few overnight hotel stays with your Mustang parked in the lot, your level of anxiety drops considerably.
  33. 1 point

    Ma light and switch

    Old switch, note exposed copper contact material New switch from EBay US parts seller UL listed industrial switch
  34. 1 point

    Vintage Air A/C duct routing

    I finally did get back there. Thanks for the hand on starting from the firewall side connections. I have them staged in an area where I can move them around, so I’ll probably put the dash in and see what happens, let the fun begin….
  35. 1 point

    Rear axle housing width

    when I did mine I wire brushed it the best i could and used a primer made just for rust. I believe it was Mastercoat series . It is sand able and u can top coat it with most any kind of paint. worked really well for me.
  36. 1 point

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Quick note about using powder-coat/painted parts that are relied on for chassis grounding to complete lighting and other electrical circuits. I had to add a separate ground wire to my parking/turn signal lights that mount to the front bumper. The bumper is powder-coated, and the parking light housings are painted in black epoxy. My screws are also coated black. When I tested the lights, one side was very dim. The other side flickered. Ground wire fixed the issue so both sides have a consistent level of illumination.
  37. 1 point
    Repeating some of the same here. The booster shouldn't affect the switch, but maybe you got a manual switch for an auto (or vice versa)? The price difference between the two is pretty significant if I remember right. Even though it works, the booster you have will likely fail sooner than later. How soon will likely depend on how much you drive your car. Definitely watch that WCCC video to understand why, or just for all around knowledge. Brakes will still work, so no worries. And if you do decide on a rebuild of one, thumbs up for Booster Dewey.
  38. 1 point

    Ammeter hardly moves

    I don't know the length off the top of my head. Each year seems to be different as well. This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all. Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so. Corrosion at contact points are well above this level. Unfortunately, this is not a precision system. Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well.
  39. 1 point

    69 SuperCoupe

    Modified cowl panel. Tacked 1/8 rod around perimeter on the bottom, cut away the slots, tacked 1/4-20 studs on the bottom side, welded shut washer nozzle mount holes, drilled new washer nozzle holes on top, sanded, skim coat of bondo, sanded smooth, primed, wet sanded, primed again. It'll get aluminum or SS mesh and the studs trimmed if too long. I have 3 more of these if it doesn't workout.
  40. 1 point

    Finish and installing front headlamp trim

    This guy forgot about installing the fender extension moldings before attaching them to the fenders. It can be done when the extension is bolted to the fender, but I'd rather stack BBs that do that again.
  41. 1 point
    Those blocks are hard to get. Been looking for my Zephyr for a while. Great find !
  42. 1 point

    hard rear suspension

    Just wrapping this up -- I put QA1 single-adjustables in the rear, and it's definitely softened it up a bit. Still firm, but not jolting anymore over the bumps!
  43. 1 point

    Trunk wiring routing.

    NPD shows the '70 System: 5210-29: use with turn downs 5210-27A: use with Mach 1 Tips There is also the concours correct option, but you need to buy all the pieces separate. Doug
  44. 1 point
    Thanks, the toughest part was fabricating the exhaust pod in the rear. the stock Shelby pod is a massive restriction to flow.
  45. 1 point

    Trouble positioning door window

    My new window finally came in. I gave it a quick measure and its 15" and some change tall, so shouldn't be another fastback one. :D I got all the different parts glued to the window. Then a couple hours later realized I managed to somehow put the front one on backwards. Despite checking it a dozen times and telling myself not to do it, I somehow did it. :D Luckily I caught it while the glue was still not fully cured. I was able to get the bracket off and cleaned up and glued on the correct direction. Something I noticed the first time gluing the bracket on is it was a bit of a chore keeping them from tilting. This time around, I used a couple stakes and a clamp to hold the brackets so they're at least on the same plane with each other. Whether or not that makes a difference, I'll know after the glue dries and I go to put this thing in.
  46. 1 point

    Borgeson pitman arm issue

    Manual pitman arm is straight on my 69.
  47. 1 point
    Damn I knew there would have been an easier way.
  48. 1 point

    69 mach 408w build

    Where's the drool emogi when you need it.
  49. 1 point

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights
  50. 1 point
    Project 69

    Brake Light Switch

    As mentioned before the switch for power brakes is more sensitive that the one for manual brakes, there is thread about this somewhere on the forum. A more drastic solution could be installing a proportioning valve combo unit that has an integrated fluid pressure switch like the one attached. I'm Installing one of these while I replace brake lines and plan to try it.

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