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Fitting on Jims hood, Looks amazing!

So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better

I decided to give my harbor freight sander a try on the front of the cab ,it took it down to clean metal fairly quick with out a lot of effort. Hit a spot on the door and found it still has the old army green under the brown primer . These cabs are 19 gauge ,well thicker than a mustangs 20 -21 gauge ,its kind of like working on a 55 gallon drum . Smooth dents can be bumped out and usually need no bondo . I will sand the flat panels but i will have to sand blast everything else . The cowl vent will be filled in and the original firewall will come out so i can make a new one deeper set for a small block Ford to fit .

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing.

My first stage was front lowered EIBACH springs, shocks & fatter sway bars rear EIBACH shocks & fat sway bar. I also added AMERICAN RACING “Halibrands” wrapped in fat modern MICHELINS. She has front BAER brakes too. I have race cars so I just want a comfortable cruiser. inside I added Bluetooth, new speakers, NARDI steering wheel, and CORBEAU seats w custom upholstery and JEGS 4 point harness bcus the original upper harness is ridiculous to wear

While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale. The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape. The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K. But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year. I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark. Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang. I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA. I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could. Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned. So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son. I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere. I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time. That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price. Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted. So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person. I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine. As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again. I bought it on the spot. So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements. I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital. Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs). I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process. At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited! Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation. I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1. I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST. My original Mustang from high school: My new Mustang:

Painted! Finally, thats been long time to get here, but was worth every minute and cent :). Winner of my dilemma "titanium silver" vs "pepper grey" is obvious.

I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today. I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order. I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.

Damnit. I could have retired trying to fix that mess!

Oh I just knew you'd say something. They were all neatly zip tied to the main under dash harness, but took up too much room to fit the AC pieces I'm now installing. It'll work out fine grasshopper.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.

Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.

Congrats on the new shop. I wish I had that kind of space to expand into. Right now my oversized 3 car garage is a Tetris model, or more like a Rubix cube when moving things around. Your ceiling height is perfect. Being able to stand upright under the car is a real luxury.

I've been thinking I need to update my 80's vintage stock replacement front suspension too (creaks a lot) and Open Tracker has been on my radar ... need to open the wallet wider to go down the rabbit hole further !! Doug

Found new roller

I used the AOD. If I was to go with an overdrive again I would go with the 4R70W cost more for the electronic shifter but a much better transmission.

Here's how mine turned out. Don't know if it's correct because I could never find a photo anywhere to work from. PIA there is nothing to work off of.

I don't want to talk smack, but isn't this a picture of Randy as a child?

My car wouldn't be for you. It's original 302 has been enhanced by Edelbrock and I to about 320 HP. And T-5 trans. replaced the fact. 3 speed. Rubie red paint and drivability upgrades put it firmly in the "Mod" category. Good luck in the search. There are still a fair no. of unmolested 'original' cars rolling around out there. My car was base in Wimbeldon white, and as such was not highly sought after. I decided it was a good canvas to build the car I wished Ford had made. I would never have done this to a Boss, Bullitt, or Shelby. Then again I couldn't justify driving one of those to the golf course, Tasty Freeze, or local cruse-in. I enjoyed building it nearly as much as I enjoy driving it and the journey, is the destination.

PIcs from my '70 Vert. Not sure if it will help or not....

Hi Stan, Welcome to the forum! This may help you with identifying what's on your firewall. It's a picture of my 1970 Mach 1 351C M code with no A/C, no power brakes, no P/S, Manual trans. m. This might help you

I didn't do it! I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!

Because the measurements on these cars vary wildly from car to car, that's something you should wait to do until your suspension, hood and fenders are installed. Unless you get custom offset wheels, I'd think you'll be using wheel adapters. Plan on rolling your fenders lips. This is a 17x9 Halibrand with around 1-1/8" spacer, and 275/40 tire.

I would also add: -insurance sufficient funds in the glove compartment for bribing the local constabulary when caught speeding

Measure between the towers ,you shouldnt cut it untill you make sure it will be the right distance between them

Yes ,that was a 37 grill in the Pete and Jake car ,at the time the 37 grill was popular to use on coupes . The grill i have is a pretty nice one ,several years ago i took it to a fiberglass shop to see if they could make a mold for them because they are so hard to find but the shop told me it would be to difficult to make so i decided to try it for my self and it came out great . I sold several of them over the years and i still have the mold . I used to have a few hanging on my wall in my shop but sold them all ,i may have to make a couple more just to hang on the wall again . The white grills on the wall are my fiberglass grills ,a pain in the butt to make because each rib has to be hand ground out .

The two female plug has yellow/black (radio power) and blue/red (radio lamp power). The female plug in lower part of red circle is blue/red and is for lamp power for optional clock. The orange spliced wire is probably power for the turn signal flasher can.

Not a bad idea. If you do, make sure you use antisieze on the threads of dissimilar metal. I use it on threads of similar metal also.

I know this post is old BUT dude you made my day. I was trying to figure this set of wires out and lo and behold you pop up with the drawings.. Thank You SOOOO Much M1

I'm really happy with the car. I originally had AC as a top to-do item, but we've found that our early evening drives down here in Florida are just fine without it. I suppose that if were to drive it some distance and with the top up I might see it differently. Like all things: I'll get to it eventually.....Right now I'm just squaring away some of the systems. The 351w dates to 1969. Nothing fancy, and likely a stock pick from another car. I enjoy learning the Holley carb and stock distributor. No plans to change that.....If anything is "pressing", I'd say it's the steering. I'll go through the whole thing, pump to valve body and the box. It drives fine. She'll go to 80+ easily, doesn't wander, and brakes in a straight line. But I suspect the PS is not optimal and there's a bit of play in the steering wheel. I've been at Garage Journal for some years now. One fellow led the way on in-ground scissor lifts over there. Then the photobucket debacle cost everyone a lot of build details. In 2018 I recessed an Atlas FM9SL into my garage floor and detailed it in the thread linked below. The recessed scissor lift was a fit for me because of our suburban situation here: a three car garage, with one bay as my shop and the other bay reserved for the Mrs to park in. That left the middle bay. Stem wall construction and FEMA standards resulted in a 12 foot ceiling. I wanted a two-post lift, but the thought of the wife constantly banging her door on the post and the impact on my work space drove me to look for something that would disappear when not in use. That's how I came across the recessed scissor lifts - widely used in Asia and Europe in tight spaces.....It's very capable. 9000lbs capacity. Lifts to 6 foot clearance to work under. It lifts my F-150 no problem. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/atlas-fm9sl-scissor-lift-flush-mount-install.383717/

I used the 3/8 round like the first one u posted from npd. I watched the one where Rich used the urethane on the 69 windshield that is interesting, if I were to ever replace another one I would give that a try. I like the way that is done with putting the trim on while the sealer is still soft so u can get the height right before it sets up. I did see something black around the edge, I assume that is what you're talking about. Not sure what that is, if it came on the glass or something he put on it.

Love it. A Boss 351 in grabber blue has always been a dream of mine ('71 not '70 obviously) Yours sounds like a great project. And you can enjoy all the car show folks who will tell you their buddy had an identical '70 Boss 351 back in high school...

Yes it sounds like a short, perhaps somewhere in the headlight circuit. The circuit breakers in the light switch are auto-reset. When they cool down they turn on again. See how it reacts with high beams on. Also, I have heard of the dimmer switch wires shorting to the floor. I believe there is supposed to be an insulator under it. Below is part of the schematic, which is down in the "How To's" section. There is also the 30+ page Ford wire diagram down there if you need it. Schematics simplify the circuit and show you how it works, while wire diagrams show you how the car is actually wired with all the plugs, wire colors, etc. This is for Exterior lights. There is another page for the interior lights. Everything above the red line is the headlight circuit. If that doesn't do it, start disconnecting wires one at a time until it stops, then you'll have to follow that wire until you find the short. Since your tail lights don't work either, that involves both circuit breakers, and they should trip independently. It could be that it's such a solid short that it drags the voltage down coming into the light switch terminal B before the breaker trips. You need to find this thing before it melts some wires. I believe there are over 40 light bulbs on our cars, so this could take some digging. If you get stumped, tell us what you did and all the details- everything is a symptom.

Yes u are correct. I got a 4R from a thunderbird and used for internals and Dan (Silverfox) helped me out with the valve body. He told me the tricks to do to it to make it shift properly. Then sold me the springs and governor parts for hardly nothing. It worked good I just never liked the nature of the AOD.

Here's the original thread for anyone interested.

Nice job it looks great.

Full power only in my house. 2 percent has too much sugar added. Although I'll eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting.

Welcome Josh. Mach1 Driver gave you spot on info that you can't go wrong with. As far as motors go, I wouldn't go any higher compression than 9.5ish with iron heads or 10.2 with aluminum. Pics! We love to see pics.

@Her69fastback wouldnt let me post a pic in messages

Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. Lizard skin was my other choice, but i think it would just get too messy for me. I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol

I did mine in a satin black epoxy. Pro's are that it is easy to match/touch up the inevitable scratches and dings that will happen during installation. I think the body color option is pretty cool, but requires more prep time. So, as you said, personal preference

Wow! Fantastic! Beautiful!

I hope you've taken the time to copy/paste this post to a Google, Yelp and Facebook review. That's really where it'll help fellow buyers. Once that's done I'd put it to bed unless he reaches back out to you to make amends.

Thanks !

Rich, congrats. Really, the best part about finally finishing a high quality restoration like yours is to share the details about the build with the other car owners at the show. It makes all the hard work worth it. Nicely done.

A 1" bore master. I asked if he can give me advice on how to set the bias and he basically told me every car is different and gave me a list of the master cylinders he sells..... Yeah... Well I ordered a wilwood tandem but the dual remote reservoir and adj porpotional valve kit. I like it because it has the pushrod already and lines from the master to the porpotional valve. I just learned that the tandem feature makes it two independent systems. I didn't know that. That sold me I just didn't care for the oem style that needs to be opened to view how much fluid you have.

Very nicely done. Still awaiting the write-up of how the voltage regulator works. Are you available for hire? I could use someone who isn't afraid of 'lectricity...

Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).

Converting mirrors to power, used Toyota Corolla motors with a little modification, still have to get mirrors cut

MikeStang, it's hard to tell, but from the top view photo it looks like something is bent on the seat back. He mentioned he is going to try to adjust the brackets. Yeah, he did a nice job fitting the upholstery.