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Here are pictures of a completed pan based in n the T sump kits I am making. just got them back from plating

I always wanted to add motorized side view mirrors to our cars. Well in my case my 1970 Mach 1 project car. I have seen posts where folks have adapted 2015 Mustang side view mirrors to a 1969 Mustang, but I wanted to have a more original look. Well with some research, a few parts from a (non-Ford) donor car and some fabrication and experimentation, I made it work. As an added bonus, I incorporated sequential LED directional lights to the package. I made very little mods to the original mirror. Obviously a hole thru the inside of the pedestal and the housing where the two meet for the wires. Also needed to fashion a custom mount bracket inside to mount the motor and mirror. Check out the video attachment file at the bottom of the passenger side it in operation..... Motorized Side View Mirrrors.mp4

This morning was a nice day so I decided we would put the engine in. We did get rained on for a couple minutes, but after that is was nice in the low 80's. I did the grunt work & my wife operates the engine hoist.

Today was a nice day so I rolled the engine out of the garage & installed the valve covers & the headers. The bottom end is stock, the heads are Ford Racing M-6049-X306 w/Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers, cam is Ford Racing M-6250-B303, & the headers are Hedman 88408 Shorties.

Latest 1969 article for one of our builds. He brought it to us with suspension in it. We did all the body work and painting plus put most of it together. http://www.mustangandfords.com/features/0119-woodward-dream-cruiser-1969-mustang-sportsroof/

Though I'd share the Monte Carlo Bar I made. I thought the 'off the shelf' ones looked a little flimsy. I had some spare 1" pipe and some brackets of my old boat (cavitation plate adjustment). Worked out pretty well. I can screw the end fitting out to take the load off the Export Brace. Makes fitting that pretty easy now.

You spelled Anheuser wrong ,and most people just call it Budweiser !

First pic of the cars together.

The guy just sent me a couple of pics of the last 67 conversion i did and it is really looking good ,black with silver stripes and red interior

Trans back in and tested it ,no leaks and flex plate is great. My 17 yo daughter is driving the car back into the house, she loves the car. mia mustang 3.MOV mia mustang.MOV

What to fix first? Make sure your checkbook and/or savings account is 3x larger than what you think it needs to be.

All our rears may be a tad wide ,just have to deal with it

Got her home from paint, time to reassemble for good.

Stripes and lettering painted and cleared. Ready for cut and buff then back to the the mechanical

Getting closer.....

Wether it’s a 1 of 1 or 1 of 7000, it’s a 69 Stang. It’s 50 years old!! I can’t count the number of people I’ve sent to the chiropractor due to them snapping their heads around to get a glimpse of my 69 or 70 while out for a cruise. What about that poor guy under his wife’s thumb wishing he could have a older Stang. I hear so many comments about people either not liking the coupes and or the fastbacks. It’s 50 years old, still running, still snapping necks, and you know there’s prob not even a third of them still around. All mine, even the 82, are all 1 of 1 in my book and yours should too. Built not bought!!

Oh you silly people ,complaining about a .10 tax ...come on out to Cali. We will show what a gas tax really is haha! Wait a minute ...that aint funny :(

Showed the old girl (display only) at a Mustang Club of America show in Houston last weekend at the Lone Star Flight Museum (museum for flying WW1&2 vintage aircraft). Obtained this unique pic of my mustang with a couple of P51 mustangs.

Welp, since I had nothing else to do I figured I might as well swap out the old small 13" 2001 Cobra front brakes and make some brackets to mount 14.2" rotors and 4 piston Brembo calipers. I used 1/2" MDF to get the pattern correct, then made the brackets out of 6061-T6. I used the steel spindle bracket from the Cobra calipers, and had to clock the caliper so the aluminum bracket isn't symmetrical. I've got good pedal feel so I believe I'll take it for a spin tomorrow.

Had a fun day of fitting and getting a lot accomplished with these pipes. I had to trim the muffler inlets and outlets first thing. Got them cut and the flanges tack welded in place. The mufflers fit really nice so the flanges were welded solid. I'm getting use to new contacts and I am having fun with depth perception, my welds are suffering... I removed the exhaust and finish welded all the connections and flanges. With a little adjustment after it cooled off it was ready to get cleaned up. I used red scotch-brite to remove the discolored areas and give the pipes a uniform look. I did not remove all the surface imperfections so there are some deeper scratches and manufacturing defects in the tube. Using the strip of material like a belt I quickly got it looking better. I picked up a weird little stand from work the other day as they were going to chuck it in the recycle bin (it was a brand new sample from someone) and set it up to help hold the pipes as I finished with the cleaning. It worked fairly well, might have to keep it around for a while. The cleaning took less than an hour total, but looks presentable. I stuck it back under the car, bolted it to the headers and installed the mufflers which are being supported by the stands. Once everything was in its proper position I installed the belly plate, just to see how everything cleared, which it did nicely. Laying on the floor looking up revealed this... So far so good. Now to build some hangers and chop up some tail pipes.

Well I finished my rebuild and ran it today for the first time. I ended up installing a new correct flex plate which is a different bolt spacing to the original and the torque converter wouldn't fit. As this is the correct flex plate I bought a new torque converter which is substantially larger and 2500rpm stall. Engine was rebuild +.020 with 2V heads (were 4V) and some other bibs and bobs. Spent way more than I wanted to. ……………….It runs like a top. No vibration and more power. I also installed an electric fuel pump and my starting problems are gone. Definitely a worthwhile venture. Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I wish I could pinpoint exactly what was the cause of the vibration but very happy it's gone.

the guy who painted my car did the same thing, everyone asked "did you run out of paint?" so this was my fix. Problem solved :-)

Sure...blame your Alzheimer's on a couple of concussions. We all know better.

Dude, I'll be 63 in a few months, and I've had more than a couple of concussions. I can't remember where my car keys are. And I lived across the street from the dealership in 1979! And had them do some body work on my pickup. Sheesh. My neighbor worked for them back in the day, but he's at the doctor. When he calls me back I'll let you know.

Christmas Eve down here, just want to say Merry Christmas from the Ozzies , be safe

Here is a Happy Thanksgiving wish to everyone here.

Celebrating the 50th birthday of my mustang today. I purchased it over 10 years ago from Oregon and shipped it to Australia where it’s had a well deserved restoration. I hope I look this good when I turn 50 in a couple of years lol.

Been at this week end car show down our way. Had the 70 R/T Dodge Charger there along with the Mach 1 which my wife drove in the morning rain with a Detroit Locker in the back. Parked next to my buddies 67 Shelby GT 350 and my other friends 69 Mercury Cyclone CJ 428 GT. We have a lot of great cars down here.

Time for an update, had tossed up strut or tubular front end? Decided on the rrs struts and rack and pinion, phase two brakes, modified the shock towers, made up the engine mounts, fitted engine and transmission, fitted new canton oil pan, trans mount is next

I'd put off a lot of work on my 69 if I was able to have dinner with my folks just one more time.

Hi All, Well I was going to paint my 69 Mustang another color, but after the vote on here, I decided to keep it original paint, thanks for your comments. And was going to buy another 69 fastback and paint that instead but decided not to have 2 Mustangs. So bought another classic car instead, a mint and original 1970 Dodge Challenger 340 4 Barrel Performance Pack A66. Hope you think it's ok:

Nothing wrong with a Mopar, i have one also 70 Dodge Charger R/T 440 4 speed.

Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty! If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.

I take it you're single and without a girlfriend?

Did a bit more this week, engine bay painted, apart from a couple of runs in the clear, it turned out quite well

Hey guys! Been a long time... For those that don't remember me, I bought/built a 69 Mustang Coupe back in 08, and I was active on the forum here till about 2014. I had started a documentary project/blog that my Mustang was featured in, and switched over about a third of the way through to a 300zx Twin Turbo to build for road racing (then sold my Stang in 2014 to continue funding the film) - Original Documentary/Z Build Thread The years went by, and I got less and less active on car forums in general... but I was recently closing down an old email address, and came across a PM notification from member RPM on here he sent me 3 years ago! Thought I'd log in and say hello to you all, and let you know that I never gave up on the documentary, and after all these years it's finally finished and I'm planning to independently release it this summer! Was a lot of ups and downs both making the film, and subsequently trying to release it (you can read more here if interested), but I couldn't be more proud of the way it came out. Check the trailer below (feel free to subscribe/visit the website/social media/etc.), and drop a comment here to say hi if you remember me, lol. Hope you're all well! -Jay Despite The Loss Official Trailer

Installed the water pump, intake manifold, distributor, & dip stick.

May 16, 1969 - Raven Black with Black interior with 302, 3 speed, now Red on Black with 302, 5 speed in Australia

Couple more pics before it goes to the new owners ,a retired couple from Iowa that just had to have it just as it sits

In getting these holes filled in, I needed to get the patches contoured to the panel. A smallish piece of 20ga was shaped to fit the contours on the english wheel using a 8.5" radius lower anvil. Laying the shaped material under the areas to be filled in, the patches were scribed and trimmed to fit. I wanted these parts tight so extra attention was given to them. I like the patches to fit in place without anything holding them up, makes them easier to tack weld in place with the TIG Round and round making small welds around my filler part. I keep the metal cool to the touch and dress the welds before planishing each section. This keeps the parts in line and helps with distortion. Keeping the welds cool during and after is key to easier cleanup. TIG welds are temperamental when it comes to dirt, it's easy to get pinholes from paint and debris in the steel. I have a few craters that had to be filled back up, but the majority of the welds looked like the above picture. I use .030" MIG wire for my filler rod, just the right amount for this gauge material. Once I had everything all welded up I started with the metal finishing. Between my high crown body hammer and a nice domed dolly, both sides of the patch were planished and filed smooth. I did use a 24 grit disk on my die grinder to knock the tops off all the welds before filing and a couple of trips back to the english wheel for a little more shape. The areas that I deleted the stamped details out of are still a little stretched, but I don't think anyone will notice the profile difference. One down, one to go...

A few weeks back I took my Mustang and Challenger along to my Son's school, as there was a car show being held there. Here's a photo of the cars:

Mike and I got the trunk and quarter extensions mounted to verify fit of all parts in back. Getting close to being ready to final weld back together!

A couple more ,a fixture to assemble front clips . And added hydraulics and a rolling portable cart to my tubing bender for making roll bars

You know you married the right one when it’s your 24th anniversary and instead of going out for a romantic dinner she’s in the shed giving me a hand doing a compression test on my 302 .

Your not wrong there Bigmal. The cost of getting anything down here from the US is crazy .

I really LOVE my new chop saw, it is nothing like that abrasive blade junk. cuts through steel like it were Balsa wood ( also cuts wood ) the only downside is the chunk shavings it shoots out really hurt!

Mine is the 2nd June next year. My wife gets annoyed that I remember the mustang's birthday and not hers. They get like that.