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Oooh! Oooh! <Raises hand> Green wire with black female bullet: AC clutch lead Greyish blue wire with female bullet: carb solenoid anti-backfire blue/red or black: PRNDL lamp lead <Asks for hall pass, due to wet pants>

I had the exact same problem with my last date.

I'd recommend stepping up to a used Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town Car.

As of a few days ago, I lost my lead in the Leaderboard. Help! I need y'all to post some softball statements that I can easily take out of context and crack jokes about so you can "like" my responses. It's been rather dull and boring along those lines in the past couple of weeks. How's that for a Midlife Crisis?

I won the "Mean Machine" award at the Christmas Car Show at Griot's Garage in Tacoma last Saturday!

Made my day.

Picked up this 69 yesterday. Typical rust in spots from a car that's been in a barn for 20+ years. Had a 302 w 3 speed manual and 9" rear. Non PS&PB. Guy bought it from original owners son, cleaned it up, then burned up the rear end doing burnouts. He pulled the motor and never did anything with it. I really would like to make a trans am themed car out of this.

Here's what my flock of flamingos look like after viewing the hood: They were bowled over!

I know 70 hood scheme, what can I say I just like the 70 strips.

Geez...I asked for advice on an exhaust system for a non-OEM setup, and I received options, isn't this what the forums are all about? Glad MTF took the time to respond, and for that, I thank them.

I re-read 1969_Mach1's post a few times, and while he did refer to the Inverted Flank camshaft lobe, (that's what we used to call them), I seen absolutely NO instance where he inferred that Inverted Radius cams would be the "best one for all builds etc." He only stated that he had read interesting tech articles and they might be worth reading for someone who wanted further information... In order to have "Shamelessly Plagiarized" from whatever source, his written text would have to be Verbatim to the source you specified, which it most certainly is not.... Many, in fact, Most people are not familiar with the YellowBullet.com website as it is tailored to a pretty specific audience. The two predominant groups that are drawn to YellowBullet are either Drag Racers, as it has a lot of different sections for various classes and venues. The other group would be the "Pissers and Moaners", as it's first listed forum is "Trash or Be Trashed, where the Weak are Killed and Eaten"... There are also quite a few political dissidents who regularly air their grievances... There is a LOT of information available on YellowBullet, but nearly nothing I would consider Gospel... and yes as a Long Time Drag Racer, I have been a member on YellowBullet for many years! But as with MOST forums, the information presented is typically Opinions Only and should be regarded as such. As to the rest of your "Dissertation" on inverted radius roller cams, the vast majority of your rant is totally unnecessary to the typical classic car and muscle car hobbyist that frequent this forum. I do understand much of your information since we ran a few different Inverted Flank roller cams which were all custom grinds specified by our engine builder, Ex NHRA Pro Stock racer and engine builder Sam Gianino back in the early 1990's. They were not nearly as aggressive as they could have been at that time, since the primary objective of the inverted flank lobe at that time was to increase the acceleration and velocity of the valve event to allow more "Area Under the Curve" for increased air flow. Since we were not Billionaires we requested a slightly milder profile to save money due to valve spring attrition. Again, this was before the advent and more widespread use of the SpinTron device which ultimately demonstrated the damage created by such camshaft profiles at high lift and RPM. As you constantly speak down with a condescending tone to anyone with an alternative opinion to your own, please try to remember that MOST members simply cannot comprehend the engineering aspects of most active components within an Internal Combustion Engine, and instead of your diatribes being informative in a useful manner they typically come across as self serving babble with the sole purpose of stroking your own ego... As many wise men have said, think before speaking.

Went to my local coffee and cars with the guys from our car club this morning. 600 cars of all makes , 3 Genuine Shelby's and a couple of 66 coupes all nice . Parked next to a S code Cougar convertible all original nice car, the Mach One is going better every time i drive it.

Aslanefe, Thanks for a great advice! I’ll arrange that asap. I wonder why I did not see that myself... The front end geometry is just amazing. Best I ever had on my car in 22 years. It was done by a local “front end voodoo wizard”, back where I was in NW FL. Vannoy’s Tires was the name of that shop. Done 3 years ago and still feels amazing. Car drives in a straight line, whatever the speed is. I shouldn’t say this, but I hit 140 mph on the highway this weekend, to give the motor a little “shake” and get the pipes fresh and clean. Had a passenger with me who couldn’t believe we were that fast. Felt like 90-100, no more. I also cleaned it today. First time I did the engine bay, since the car was restored (11k miles now). God, I love that car!! G

unless the car was wrecked, it is pointless to have it checked for being straight.

Continued mocking up my brake tubes with the steel brake lines. Got them bent and installed the master cylinder. I used the Ford Ranger master cylinder body, and the Mustang reservoir with my Master Power Brakes proportioning valve mounted underneath. I am also going to use an in-line, pressure actuated brake light switch, so I routed those lines from the front brake line outlet. Looks like that arrangement will work nicely. I will now re bend all of these lines in their final configuration, making sure they are not over bent, scratched, dented, etc, and mount my brass tee and brake light switch securely. Then bench bleed the master cylinder, and call that part done. I also need to hook up my rear brake line, but that is the easy one. Took a brake (no pun intended.....) from the tube bending to assemble my adjustable motor mounts and take some measurements. I have both the stock height and 1/2" drop, and after several iterations of measuring, decided I had at least an inch clearance from my big oil pan to the center link. So, I am going with the 1/2" drop, as that will help me with my high rise intake/shaker hood fit up. The picture of the engine bay shows the adjustable motor mount plates attached to the front crossmember support. You can see the slotted hole that runs horizontally, that allows for the side to side adjustment of the engine. The picture of the other mounting plates show the front to back slot and that adjustment. What is missing in the pictures is the rear leaf spring poly bushings that go into the engine side assembly. Those are on the way..... This should also allow me to steer the engine clear of the Borgeson box, my big-ass C-6 transmission, and the shorty headers that want to hit everything... Should be fun...

You place the pvc pipe on the vertical adjusting bars that the U shaped brackets slide up and down. By slicing down one side of the pipe you can push it over the vertical bars and it fits snug . It’s a bit of trial and error to get the pipe to the height you want.

Well. I'm sure there are other ways. But I got so sick of belt squeak for both the Alternator and PS that I bought this tool. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209 You put it on the inside of the pulleys and use a wrench to have it push out until there is enough tension on the belt. Tighten your bolts, un-tighten and remove the tool. Makes it SO easy and nice to do by yourself.

Now you tell me. I removed all of my undercoating by rubbing it with a rag soaked in gasoline. I hereby bequeath any residual scrap wiring and Mustang schematics and catalogs to 1869stang.com and any debts to RPM. May I Rest In Peace.

Every one needs a lap dog

These electric problems are giving me the sh@#s so i thought i would install the shaker, much easier.

I would recommend first removing all clothes for a full body paint job...

I know my coupe didn't come with them originally, but I really like the look of them. I think the trim option also had a rocker moulding which I didn't not include because I put on a GT stripe. It's not original for me, but I really like the looks.

Big update today... First time it has ran in 6 years. I need to re-tighten the valve covers since the gaskets were leaking but it ran. Other progress since last update: power steering was leak tested and is tight tested new fuel sender and it is good filled with antifreeze and the water pump and thermostat are good All gauges look good to do: Finish setting timing and idle switch to electronic points and new coil (pertronix and flamethrower) install gas tank fix passenger side low beam light (might replace all the headlight trim rings) re-install grille lower car and tighten suspension components get an alignment Insure, inspect, register and drive.

My girl (Bimbo) is getting on. Not looking forward to that day.