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First set is for TexasEd. They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .

I went to pick up my power window kit for my '70 convertible. These come highly recommended from local restoration shops. I have no affiliation with the supplier, had never been there before, but as it was driving distance, I decided to go over and pick up my window kit. What I found was a small family run business in a small town called East Bend, NC, population 620. It is located on the East Bend of the Yadkin River, near Winston Salem. The owner personally hooked me up with the right regulators, motors, and switch combination. I went back in the shop, and all of the steel parts are laser cut right there. All of the hardware was very high quality. I chose the billet switch option, which uses a chrome plated billet base for the 4-switch option I chose for my console. The kit uses brand new GM switches and harness connectors. So, if you are looking for an honest to god Made in the USA power window kit, check these guys out.

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights

Fitting on Jims hood, Looks amazing!

I reached out to Danno and I'm happy to report that he is ok and still has the Mustang. He says life got busy but plans to return to the site when things subside and he has the time again. :)

Dont buff until you get down to the finest grit or it is a lot more work . I bought a buffer from Harbor freight years ago and it still works great ,i just mounted it on a pole . The buff wheels and compounds i would get a the Turlock swap meet ,those bars are at least 15 years old and started out about 12 inches long ,white is stainless and green is a polish grit . Final phase is mothers mag polish for a very bright glow . Make sure to wrap the nut at the polish wheel with tape or you will soon find out why . Wear gloves and keep a tight grip on the metal or you will find it right between your eyes ,hold the metal to the wheel gently and mage sure there is no edge to grab ,it is best to buff length wise so it doesnt grab and wrap your stainless around the shaft . The longest hammer is from EastWoods ,one is actually a tack hammer ,i keep them polished so they dont mark the metal when knocking out dings . These tiny hammers also work great for very fine body work ! Sometime this summer i have all the stainless for two 56 Ford Fairlanes to buff and that is not going to be a lot of fun!

Started wiring the switches. Will be using some terminal blocks.

I went with Undercover innovations, Big noticeable difference in cooling. The temps dropped faster as it directs all air to the radiator instead of having the air hit all sides and try to lift the hood. you could make your own, I've seen some 69-70 trans am mustang with this setup.

Hi! My name is Kaitlyn and I bought a roller 1969 mustang back in march and I'm working on restoring it. I of course have a million questions and often times find myself feeling completely lost lol but i'm trying to take it one step at a time since its such a big project and I know it will end up being more expensive than i'm expecting. I'm sending it in next week to have some chassis work done (new floor pans, fixing some holes in the wheel wells, sandblasting, epoxy, etc.) because I felt like all of that should be done by a professional! My question for now is what's next, I feel like this is the first big thing I've done for the car, other than cleaning it out when I first got it and doing research as much as possible. Im sure there isn't an exact process but I just don't know exactly what direction I should go in after this, do I do electrical, brakes, interior? I know when it's time I want to put the 351 W in the car and I've been looking at the T5 transmission (5 speed manual trans, fairly sure it was common in the foxbody mustangs) Those are my basic questions for now, I've definitely got a lot to learn in this process but I'm excited to learn and watch the transformation of the car, it's crazy to think I have my dream car! I would love any advice anyone has!

I decided to give my harbor freight sander a try on the front of the cab ,it took it down to clean metal fairly quick with out a lot of effort. Hit a spot on the door and found it still has the old army green under the brown primer . These cabs are 19 gauge ,well thicker than a mustangs 20 -21 gauge ,its kind of like working on a 55 gallon drum . Smooth dents can be bumped out and usually need no bondo . I will sand the flat panels but i will have to sand blast everything else . The cowl vent will be filled in and the original firewall will come out so i can make a new one deeper set for a small block Ford to fit .

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing.

It's been a long while since I've posted a update but a good friend made my MC bar recently and I finished my plug wires just now. The msd ones I had on were rubbing against the shock towers. Next I run my starter solenoid and power line then wire up the contour fans. Just a single 10ga power wire to each from my relays inside controlled by my Dakota controller and I'll ground them to the frame or something. Then I'll start hiding all the wires with my flame retardant wire loom and make it look nicer. Almost.....

I shipped a box that was supposed to go to LA. It went to fresno first ,then bakersfield ,back to fresno then some town up north then finally made it to LA. Took a week to what should have been a 200 mile trip ,it saw more of california than i ever have !

Where's the drool emogi when you need it.

So.... about that rebuild... it isnt happening. We are going the way of @Viperpete now and basically building a car under the VIN. Both the driver side and passenger side have been wrecked. Passenger side is worse, and I am just not able to figure out how it was tweaked. We finally decided to cut the skeleton apart and rebuild it on the floor, at which point my son said "Hey, if we are going to cut it apart anyway, why not get a new side for the passenger side." Fair and valid point, as from the B-pillar rearward, it all needs fixed. So, our came the check book, and now we are waiting on that hunk of steel to arrive. So for anyone keeping score, here is a list of the original (though not necessarily to THIS car) body parts that will remain... Roof crossmembers Firewall Rear seat support Rear valence Fenders Fender extensions Quarter extensions Stone guard All the stainless steel trim Door shells (will get new skins) Outer cowl pods Cowl grille panel Things that might remain original if I can find good ones... Hood (need one with shaker cutout, without hood locks) Trunk (be nice to find one that was originally on a car with a spoiler) Front valence We did position the front shock towers and radiator support on the front of the frame jig last night just for giggles... Yes, he's in the doghouse!

Sounds like a good plan. Merry Christmas brother.

Still working on my center console project. I actually have a brand new console that I will install all of this stuff on once I am done mocking it up on the old, original console. Getting close. Need to add a couple relays and that should be it. I will post schematic/block diagram when all done. I installed blue LEDs in the Phantom gauges. Looks good.

I too had the same problem on my sons car. We fabricated a patch as I considered replacing the whole panel but the complexity of it interfacing with surrounding panels and rockers led me to my choice. However you must have side cowls removed to repair like this. Also make sure to put sealant on screw holes as they will leak when water runs down the cowls.

I got the old fire wall out ,that thing was really in there ,it looks like i need to pick up a sheet of 19 gauge sheet metal to build the new one . I am going to sand blast before i put in the new fire wall so i can get at everything .

A/C glove box fits both cars, but you can’t fit as many speeding tickets in it.

I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today. I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order. I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.

Damnit. I could have retired trying to fix that mess!

Oh I just knew you'd say something. They were all neatly zip tied to the main under dash harness, but took up too much room to fit the AC pieces I'm now installing. It'll work out fine grasshopper.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it. The automatic mode is really all I use. Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it. I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash. I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same. These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty. I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine. Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks. I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects. The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace. One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.

Why yes ,yes i do ! Does candy apple work ? I just have to put it together .

I have no direct knowledge of liskey measurements, but if your floor is anything like mine, it is very uneven. You may want to think about using a cheap auto-leveling laser for much better accuracy: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+use+a+lazer+level+to+level+a+car+chassis#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:4f8f3d47,vid:NL4KyLA6mJk

Who you talking to son?

Found them on the web... https://www.nu-relics.com/aboutus.asp

Thanks Ed, but I have ordered the opentracker. They are real nice people, apologised for USPS costing $42 to ship Down Under. More progress today. Bought a roller bearing for the bottom of the steering column, went to my local machine shop guy who basically went, yup you need a sleeve to stop that thing walking. Come back Friday. He's an old guy, his machines are them big old heavy cast iron stuff you can't afford now and can't buy new and he does good work. I'll stick it up once done. Sandblasted the engine pulleys and brackets, along with the under dash brackets, pedal box and bake pedal. I hate sandblasting as I have a crud machine, but it is pleasing to have nice clean things come out ready for paint. Then I mocked up the roller clutch bearing kit. This is the Scott Drake one and not high end. Plain old gal washer, cheap bearings and lots of intolerance. I can move one side by hand so I'll weld the big ugly washers to the carrier so it don't bind up. The issue is probably more the old twisted pedal box than the kit but it was about half an hours work filing the mount holes flat. Lastly, spent time thinking on the TKX issue. I think I'll be dropping some cash on one, hoping I can sell the TKO6 for close to what I bought it for.

Nice work. What's keeping the 69 from being driven?

that's Ex-Zachary

Yep, I agree. The rear visibility is so poor I added a rear camera on the license plate frame. It works pretty well but mine doesn't have enough side view to see all the way to the outer edges. Better than nuttin though.

Top of my head without any research I'd say $750.

No recent pictures, but we are working on getting the floor jigged up. I am not entirely satisfied with the floor assembly - it is missing rear jig holes. There are supposed to be holes at the rear of the frame rails BEHIND the spring shackle mounts. They arent there. The other two sets of holes lined up well... except for my poor assumptions. See the attached diagram. I tried to set the height of the floor based on the points circled in yellow (for fun, the holes that are not there are circled in red, and you can see they are behind the spring shackle mounts). There are two other sets that are considered the control points for the height, both labeled X. Why didnt I use them? Well, the front one has no direct or calculatable distance front to back. It's just there for the height. The diagram also makes it look like the front floor support and the front of the rear frame rail are at the same height and parallel to the ground. The rears are the spring perch holes, which are harder to fasten (not impossible, not even difficult, but I am lazy). So I used the two sets circled in yellow and I was planning on using the set circled in red. If I am to use the X points to set height, then there is no way the frame pieces are parallel to the ground. When they are, the distance to the spring perch mount point is something like an inch taller than the diagram. This will result in the frame sloping down front to back. So I am going to start over and put the height fixtures at the X points and trim the other posts to be tall enough to engage the holes. Frankly at this point I know the floor assembly is built correctly, so I probably dont even need to do that. But I will, because it is part of the experience.

A common problem with 69/70 dash clusters is that the gauges (except ammeter) don't work. The reason is that one of the various posts of the gauges is touching the metal housing, which basically shorts all of the gauges. This often happens when one replaces the circuit card. To solve, take the dash out and loosen the 2 bolts for one of the gauges and re-set the gauge in the housing and re-tighten the bolts. If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between any one of the posts and the metal housing of the dash cluster. If you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the bolts is touching. You will spend a fair amount of time re-setting the gauges until you get a reading of kilo- or mega-ohms: that is the reading you want. You can't see the issue, as the view is obstructed by the circuit card and the cardboard insulation pad underneath the bolt nuts.

Doesn't make the manifold bad. Does make the 'lower oil baffle' bad. The purpose for the baffle is two-fold. Provide an insulated area below the carb. pad from hot air and hot oil splash. Brian

Measure between the towers ,you shouldnt cut it untill you make sure it will be the right distance between them

I would love to walk around your place and take in everything you have. I have no idea how you tell the tiny difference of parts from piles of what looks like the exact same thing.

As nice as your car looks I personally would not race it, I would be treating it like a baby. If you never intend to race or do any mud slinging an open rear would be my choice. If you ever want to race again take the 411 and build a race car around it.

Cleaning the glass bracket and using new 3M adhesive was one of the easier projects I did. IMO swapping to bolt in glass is an 80s thing and archaic since quality adhesives are available. The West Coast Classic Cougar install video is priceless. Just my 2 cents, er... make that 5 cents due to inflation.

Pulled the trigger on the Koni's today. On sale at Summit if anyone is in the market. John

Not a bad idea. If you do, make sure you use antisieze on the threads of dissimilar metal. I use it on threads of similar metal also.

I know this post is old BUT dude you made my day. I was trying to figure this set of wires out and lo and behold you pop up with the drawings.. Thank You SOOOO Much M1

Turns out the clip that aslanefe posted may in fact be the original style clip for 69. After receiving a couple original 69/70 clips from Scott at West Coast Cougars I removed the remnant from my car. Appear to be a match ? Brian

I used the 3/8 round like the first one u posted from npd. I watched the one where Rich used the urethane on the 69 windshield that is interesting, if I were to ever replace another one I would give that a try. I like the way that is done with putting the trim on while the sealer is still soft so u can get the height right before it sets up. I did see something black around the edge, I assume that is what you're talking about. Not sure what that is, if it came on the glass or something he put on it.

So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better

Found new roller