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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/18/2021 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
    I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?
  3. 4 points

    U joint cap clips, help needed

    Success!! Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
  4. 3 points
    Jesse 69 Fastback

    1969 Flashback

    While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale. The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape. The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K. But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year. I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark. Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang. I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA. I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could. Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned. So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son. I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere. I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time. That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price. Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted. So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person. I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine. As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again. I bought it on the spot. So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements. I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital. Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs). I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process. At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited! Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation. I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1. I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST. My original Mustang from high school: My new Mustang:
  5. 3 points

    69 coupe from SVK

    Painted! Finally, thats been long time to get here, but was worth every minute and cent :). Winner of my dilemma "titanium silver" vs "pepper grey" is obvious.
  6. 3 points

    1969 Mustang Coupe Trunk Deck

    Thanks for the introduction RPM. I live in Redding Ca. I have a 1969 mustang coupe, 351w 4v. fmx automatic with factory air, power steering, power brakes. ive had the car for about 15 years (im 30). Im looking into making it into a gt350/traditional front of a 69.
  7. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  8. 3 points

    Cleveland Vacuum advance system

    and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  9. 2 points

    exhaust fitment-x pipe

    PIcs from my '70 Vert. Not sure if it will help or not....
  10. 2 points
    Rich Ackermann

    engine bay

    Hi Stan, Welcome to the forum! This may help you with identifying what's on your firewall. It's a picture of my 1970 Mach 1 351C M code with no A/C, no power brakes, no P/S, Manual trans. m. This might help you
  11. 2 points

    Not me!

    I didn't do it! I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!
  12. 2 points
    Because the measurements on these cars vary wildly from car to car, that's something you should wait to do until your suspension, hood and fenders are installed. Unless you get custom offset wheels, I'd think you'll be using wheel adapters. Plan on rolling your fenders lips. This is a 17x9 Halibrand with around 1-1/8" spacer, and 275/40 tire.
  13. 2 points

    Rotisserie Mounting

    I used a laser level to establish a datum line and measured from there according to the factory specs. I used screw jacks for micro adjustment. 8 points. Worked good.
  14. 2 points

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  15. 2 points

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.
  16. 2 points
    Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.
  17. 1 point
    But it hurts so good.
  18. 1 point

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    Welcome Josh. Mach1 Driver gave you spot on info that you can't go wrong with. As far as motors go, I wouldn't go any higher compression than 9.5ish with iron heads or 10.2 with aluminum. Pics! We love to see pics.
  19. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Outer Rocker Replacement

    @Her69fastback wouldnt let me post a pic in messages
  20. 1 point

    Sound and Heat Instulation

    Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. Lizard skin was my other choice, but i think it would just get too messy for me. I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol
  21. 1 point

    Space saver spare?

    That must be a 73 model, when the manufacturers were forced to add 5 mph bumpers!
  22. 1 point
    I did mine in a satin black epoxy. Pro's are that it is easy to match/touch up the inevitable scratches and dings that will happen during installation. I think the body color option is pretty cool, but requires more prep time. So, as you said, personal preference
  23. 1 point

    69 coupe from SVK

    Wow! Fantastic! Beautiful!
  24. 1 point


    This is my favorite video Took my daughter for a ride in my '68 Mustang maybe 6 or 7 years ago, on an undisclosed road in North Carolina. I purchased this car in the late 1980's and drove it to work everyday. It was a 6 cylinder coupe with a 3 speed, and aftermarket, underdash air conditioning. I drove it as I knew I could fix it and keep getting to work. My co-workers often questioned me about driving this 25 year old car to work every day. I loved it. As a small child my daughter rode in the car a lot, in the back seat with a lap belt and a rear quarter window for her view. She was not interested in a trip to Disney, or a ride in some theme park. The Mustang ride was her favorite. The car was off the road from around 1994 to 2004, when I started restoring it, at that point, it had 260,00 miles on it and was pretty much worn out. After the Resto, I was keen on showing it, and driving it, and got best in class at a National Mustang (MCA) show But, my daughter was busy raising the 4 children and could not make it to the show. I have all the trophies packed for her and the grandkids. She doesn't know it, but the car is hers. I will give it to her in the next year or so. She has inherited the "gearhead" gene in the family. As soon as she gets a decent garage, she can have it. As CSNY said years ago...."Teach your Children Well".... Godspeed. Jenn Mustang Ride.mp4
  25. 1 point

    Spilt Milk

    I hope you've taken the time to copy/paste this post to a Google, Yelp and Facebook review. That's really where it'll help fellow buyers. Once that's done I'd put it to bed unless he reaches back out to you to make amends.
  26. 1 point
    Rich, congrats. Really, the best part about finally finishing a high quality restoration like yours is to share the details about the build with the other car owners at the show. It makes all the hard work worth it. Nicely done.
  27. 1 point
    Ridge Runner


    When you are told ... only tighten those bolts finger tight !
  28. 1 point
    Hi Bob, They make a Gel version of Evaporust. I have not used it much. In my experience Evaporust does not like to be exposed to air. Its looses its effectiveness faster when exposed to air. I would try brushing the Gel and cover the area with something like thing painters plastic or plastic wrap to keep the air away. Just allow the plastic to cover and stick to the Evaporust surface.
  29. 1 point
    Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).
  30. 1 point

    Not me!

    Hey guys it stinks getting old, & I am right there with you guys.
  31. 1 point
    You can move towards the front more if you place a piece of wood on top of the stand to spread out the load
  32. 1 point
    Sound like your new sharp clutch rod poked a hole on the clutch fork. As you drove it made the hole larger and larger and cause the clutch paddle go lower and lower, that just my thought.
  33. 1 point

    speedometer driven gear

    Take a look at these: https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-gears https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-calc
  34. 1 point

    how to wire the electric choke

    You could also use the female plug at the fire wall harness, currently using it on my 69 and 2- 70's
  35. 1 point

    Radiator drain solution?

    I use a garbage pail lid.
  36. 1 point

    Radiator drain solution?

    This style petcock that I've got on my radiator allows you to slip a piece of hose over it ... if you can find this style somewhere.
  37. 1 point

    Only in California ? Maybe a city near you

    that sucks! reminds me of this video how you can't purchase and install tesla parts yourself and need to take it to a service center.
  38. 1 point
    PPG Primer and Single Stage Black Satin
  39. 1 point

    69 Headlight switch wiring

    Try this.... its simpler to understand.... 69 Ignition Switch connections..odt
  40. 1 point

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    or mustang steve brackets with OEM style late model mustang hardware...
  41. 1 point
    This is what I would do; get some nuts with the correct thread. Then use a small file and make channels inside them like a die would have (basically make a die out of the nut). Then use it as a tap. As the nuts are smaller than a die, they will not hit the sides of the channels.
  42. 1 point

    Best part finds!

    ... and I feel like I got a deal for a $2 bottle of wine at Trader Joes. Two buck Chuck. Oh well, bad wine... had to toss it.
  43. 1 point

    Where to find solenoids ?

    The replies on the concours site suggest that there is no unique starter solenoid for 64.5, although the body was brown for that year. No reason to think another starter solenoid wouldn't work.
  44. 1 point

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Converting mirrors to power, used Toyota Corolla motors with a little modification, still have to get mirrors cut
  45. 1 point

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    Did a 2 layer repair on door area drip tray trim. Typical rust close to A-pillar. Turned out pretty well.
  46. 1 point
    A good pic is worth a thousand dollars. Even my 20 year old cheap paint job can look good in a pic.
  47. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Rear torque box question

    I connected them in the last 67 i did ,you will have to notch the front torque box and the rear torque box and weld around them. You will have to support the entire side or the car from the front rails to the rear rails because you will be cutting them loose when you notch them ,i will see if i can find my pics
  48. 1 point

    69 mach 408w build

    i'll pass! wouldn't want to take away from the pleasure you could have! pushing on those dents, sanding for what seemed like hours.....
  49. 1 point
    JET 445

    In the beginning

    Grabber Green?, looks fantastic you have done a great job on that car.
  50. 1 point
    On the outside like the top picture. I cut a small piece of thin rubber to put in between the brace and the valence and used a stainless socket head bolt to attach it. I think they were black from the factory? All of the ones I have taken off have been rust colored though. You can't really see them when everything is bolted together unless you really look for them.

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