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Finely completed only if.. You never drive it. Never look at it . Never look at another mustang. Never get a parts catalog in the mail. Never go on the internet. Never wake up in the middle of the night. Never find yourself with a pile of money with nothing to really do with it. If you can live by these rules you are safe...….

Oooh! Oooh! <Raises hand> Green wire with black female bullet: AC clutch lead Greyish blue wire with female bullet: carb solenoid anti-backfire blue/red or black: PRNDL lamp lead <Asks for hall pass, due to wet pants>

I had the exact same problem with my last date.

You probably need to ask on a Cougar forum. I just work on wires; I don't have access to the various cars to give you an answer as to where things go. That said, you should talk to my wife: she tells me where to go all the time...and it is usually only one place...

You do not want to search ,hot tranny

Video 1969 mustang video.mp4

I'd recommend stepping up to a used Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town Car.

Hi All, Well I was going to paint my 69 Mustang another color, but after the vote on here, I decided to keep it original paint, thanks for your comments. And was going to buy another 69 fastback and paint that instead but decided not to have 2 Mustangs. So bought another classic car instead, a mint and original 1970 Dodge Challenger 340 4 Barrel Performance Pack A66. Hope you think it's ok:

Nothing wrong with a Mopar, i have one also 70 Dodge Charger R/T 440 4 speed.

Think you've got problems? My teenager is now 48.

She's home!! But of course, as a teacher, school starts tomorrow and I won't have time to do anything for awhile!! Argh! So my first order of business is to recharge the battery. It came back quite dead, but I have a trickle charger on it now, and it's charging up! I want to start with putting the gauge cluster back in, so I figure I need a battery so I can test that!

I can probably recover the majority of the images if I had the time. It's a big job to go through the backups though. But I need to look into another hosting company which is a process to get everything switched over. I'll keep y'all posted.

1969_Mach1: I don't have a problem with MTF when they respond with something that they sell that they can help with the problem of the original poster. I think most people here know that MTF is also a vendor and what they have to offer must be taken with the appropriate care one would take with any vendor. If they offered items that were entirely inappropriate or irrelevant to the thread, then I would have a problem as well. My casual interpretation/reading of their posts is that they are trying to offer help with the obvious bias of supporting things that they know work and provide in their high-end products. I don't think that this is too awful to make a stink about. The phrase is "caveat emptor". I hope that my advice that I present to this forum is not construed as well as hyping my products or services, although that is an ulterior motive for joining. I try not to shill my services unnecessarily and only when it is appropriate. I believe MTF is doing the same. Just my humble opinion. Written with respect and humbleness, Midlife.

As of a few days ago, I lost my lead in the Leaderboard. Help! I need y'all to post some softball statements that I can easily take out of context and crack jokes about so you can "like" my responses. It's been rather dull and boring along those lines in the past couple of weeks. How's that for a Midlife Crisis?

I really LOVE my new chop saw, it is nothing like that abrasive blade junk. cuts through steel like it were Balsa wood ( also cuts wood ) the only downside is the chunk shavings it shoots out really hurt!

got my exhaust manifolds back today, sent them out to Jet-Hot for ceramic coating..they are gorgeous ! they are coated inside and out, and its not that powder coat stuff either,

I have all parts now for engine that I will get except for pistons, pushrods, headgaskets and rod/main bearings. Plan to take it to shop in November for machining. ….and in process of getting out scaring, pitting, etc from the undercarriage....

Here's my stock advice for finding excessive current draw that I provide every customer of mine: First, always install electrical wiring with the battery disconnected. Physically install the underdash harness with fuses. Connect all underhood and taillight harnesses. When ready to check out the harness, close all doors, turn off all lights, accessories, etc. Make sure both battery connectors are disconnected. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid. Leave the negative terminal disconnected from the battery. Then use a digital volt meter to measure the current draw across the battery. Place one probe of the DVM on the negative battery cable terminal, and the other probe on the negative battery post. Be sure that the DVM is set to amps, DC. If there are no shorts in the wiring connections, the reading should be on the order of 30 milliamps or less. Anything above 1 amp indicates some accessory is on; readings above 10 amps (may blow the fuse on the DVM) indicates a dead short. If you have a short, disconnect all other wiring from the starter solenoid post where the battery connects and re-measure the current. If current drops, the source is the underdash wiring harness or the harness from the starter solenoid to the firewall. Reconnect the wiring to the starter post and then disconnect the underhood harness from the firewall and test again to isolate the source of the short. If the short is not in the underhood or underdash harness, the problem lies in the alternator or voltage regulator. Disconnect each of these in turn to isolate the source. If the short or high current comes from the underdash region, keep the battery negative side disconnected and remove one fuse at a time. Measure the current as above. If you now see low current, there is either a short or an item on that particular fuse circuit is on. Turn off that item and continue checking. Eventually, you’ll have low current readings with all fuses installed and all wiring connected. At that time, and only at that time, is it safe to connect the negative battery cable to the battery. Eventually, you’ll have low current readings with all fuses installed and all wiring connected. This series of tests checks all of the battery directly powered systems. To check the Accessory systems, now repeat all of the tests above with the ignition key in the ACC position. The current with the key in the ACC position may be up to 1 amp or so. When all of the tests are done and no anomalous current is noted, at that time, and only at that time, is it safe to connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

Went to my local coffee and cars with the guys from our car club this morning. 600 cars of all makes , 3 Genuine Shelby's and a couple of 66 coupes all nice . Parked next to a S code Cougar convertible all original nice car, the Mach One is going better every time i drive it.

Hey guys. It's been about 8 years since I darkened the doorway of this great forum. Hope everybody is still alive and kicking. This game called life has unfolded and the 69 302 coupe my son and I built together oh so many moons ago has once again landed in my garage. My son is 25 now and off living his life and has no place for the stang. So it sits with me now. Bwah-ha-ha-haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Anyway, I would like to get back on the horse (pun intended) and start asking some questions. Just thought I should say "howdy" first before just shamelessly picking your brains. Hope all is well. FoothillTom

It will need to be custom, which is not much $ I have a 4.6 and used an x pipe made for that engine, after the mufflers is where you will need it custom made. The pipes will have to go under the axle, there will be Zero room above it. Dont worry, you cant see them when on the ground.

I aint walking no where ,the couch is my buddy

Mike and I installed the upper cowl today. Moving along!

Every one needs a lap dog