Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/13/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone.
  2. 5 points
    I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?
  3. 5 points
    copb8

    Projects pending pandemic

    Not directly Mustang related but it stores a mustang so there's that. I've been wanting to have a nice finished garage ever since we built out house 15 years ago so I finally got off my duff and did it. All new paint top to bottom, new cabinets, big screen TV, and professionally done floors. Couldn't be happier with the results. Now I make my wife take her shoes off when she come in it from the house Mustang related I've installed an electric trunk release, retrosound stereo, chased squeaks and rattles, had the exhaust reworked.... Been a product season for me.
  4. 4 points
    MorganLeBlanc

    Morgans 69 Mustang

    We finished up around five in the afternoon. I went with the Dyno Max Super Turbo mufflers. V band clamps and a X kit from Summit Racing and well as a complete kit from National Parts Depot. I have the turbo mufflers from the kit that I am planning to sell. I still need to weld on the chrome tips and make some minor adjustments. Then I can fire it up.
  5. 4 points
    JayEstes

    Galveston, Tx Sunrise

    Saturday morning came early last weekend. Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise. A few pics for anyone interested. The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall. Beach pictures taken down on East Beach. They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made. Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress... Jay
  6. 4 points
    reviving this ancient thread as Covid-19 restrictions here in the NY/NJ area has finally allowed me time to work on the mustang. The little free time i've had in the last year has been mostly spent doing home renovations, motorcycle track days, and some work on the newest addition to the stable: But anyhow, back to the mustang. Spent the last few weeks working to correct a lot of the crappy work the shop did. Ended up fabricating new engine mounts and transmission crossmember, fitted JBA shorty headers, installed a new intake and did a light port on the throttle body, modified the sn95 pedal cluster to fit using a 1969 brake pedal and clearancing the cowl to allow the quadrant to clear, rebuilt the door hinges, fixed some small rust holes in the inner cowls on both sides, and fabricated an air cleaner to fit a 2004 mach 1 shaker scoop and seal on the 2000 Lincoln continental intake manifold. pedal assembly had to cut the cowl a bit for the quadrant to clear door hinges engine mounts - had to raise the engine a bit and move it slightly forward for the headers to clear and the transmission to clear the tunnel while maintaining proper driveline angle. Transmission mount Had to modify the trans tunnel for the shifter opening (was an auto) so cut it for clearance, notched andboxed in the trans tunnel support, and patched the opening. Shaker assembly - wanted to use a late model shaker but didn't want the entire mess of the stock airbox in the engine bay (also, not daily driving this thing so not worried about monsoons) so fabricated a mid plate to bolt to the 2004 Mach 1 shaker top and sandwich the late model shaker seal. Using a K&N filter that measures about 9.5x11.65" pardon the trashed hood - have a dynacorn flat hood to go on but didn't want to cut the shaker hole until I knew if I could actually pull off this airbox idea so tossed on the junk 70 hood I had laying around with the shaker hole already cut. Have to repaint the engine and some of the engine bay and sort out the hydroboost fitment, but hoping to get started on wiring and plumbing shortly.
  7. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  8. 3 points
    aslanefe

    Cleveland Vacuum advance system

    and never reply to a 12 year old thread.
  9. 3 points
    I had started a thread asking about repro O.E. ford 4BBL Throttle Cable Brackets, which started to morph into a thread about modding one to mount on one of these Summit carbs. Instead of continuing with that thread, I figured it would be best to start clean with a NEW thread on all that needs to be done to install this series of carburetors on a 1969 or 1970 Mustang / Cougar. I'm installing the 600 CFM Vacuum Secondary version (M08600VS) on my 1969 mustang with 351W and Offenhauser 360Deg Equa-Flow Dual Plane Intake. I'd guess the installation would be very similar on any 1969-70 Ford V8 that uses a square hole throttle cable & bracket that mounts to the rear carb studs. FIRST STEP ... Modding an O.E. Ford or reproduction 4BBL Throttle Cable Bracket to fit the back end of this carb. In my case, I bought the Clear Zinc Plated '69-70 Boss 302 bracket from NPD (9741-6A). The '69-70 302,351 & 390 with 4BBL (NPD 9741-5A) could also be used, but I bought the Boss one because they sell for the same price and it was plated and the other one appears to be bare steel, plus I was hoping maybe it had a little more "drop" in the section that goes under the rear of the carb. Well, the Boss 302 bracket only has 1/4" of drop to it and the Summit carb needs at least 11/16" so it needed to be modded to fit. The 12/26/20 post in the original thread has pics of how I planned to mod the bracket: '69-70 O.E. 4BBL Carb Accelerator Cable Brackets ... - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite MODDING the BRACKET: I cut a 0.83" wide strip of steel out of a RACO 2-Gang Electrical Switch Cover using a 6" Drill Master Cut-Off Saw I bought from Harbor Freight. Had to put the back stop at the further back position and remove the clamp assembly as the cover was maybe an 1/8" too wide and just held it down by hand. Had to flip over to finish the cut, as it only went about 80-90% thru. A larger abrasive chop saw would be able to do in one cut or could also use a band saw. I used an old Holley carb base I had in my carb parts box as a "weld fixture", used a Ryobi 18V 3" cut-Off Saw to cut away the center section after welding the outside welds, then welded the inners after the piece was removed. A little grinding to clean up my welds then removed from fixture. Cleaned it up with Lacquer Thinner then Wax & Grease Remover and then masked off the ends and painted the center section with cold galvanize paint. Mod is pretty much unseen as mounted in the last pic. I'll post other steps for this carb installation as new posts. Doug
  10. 3 points
    She’s back at shop to fix a few details. Her sister just arrived yesterday. 1964 Shelby Daytona Coupe Replica by Factory Five w a 289 & independent rear suspension. Can’t wait to drive her.
  11. 3 points
    Midlife

    The Real Truth

  12. 3 points
    Kris

    69 Convertible build

    Over the last few days I’ve got the radiator installed and hooked up, finished installing and wiring the ac system, hooked up the transmission cooling lines, cleaned and repainted my seat frames, disassembled the convertible frame and completely rebuilt and painted it, and installed the carpet. I also got all the electrical issues sorted out and everything works properly now.
  13. 3 points
    mustangstofear

    So Kamela and Joe...

    The wonder of makeup:)
  14. 3 points
    newstang

    Riots

  15. 3 points
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    It was a beautiful day today so I pit the Mustang up on ramps in the rear & jack stands in the front & proceeded to clean off the undercoating where the sub frame connectors are going to weld to. Drivers side, Passengers side,
  16. 3 points
    finally got the engine painted and fully installed. New header studs and gaskets. Headers and poly engine mounts installed and everything bolted down. Next up, running the engine bay wiring harness.
  17. 3 points
    latoracing

    Projects pending pandemic

    Yes, all new. It's just up the road a few miles, outside the city limits. Pretty close to swapping the building's square feet for house square feet. Existing house 2800 sf., 1500 sf. building. Going to build a 1500+ sf. house and a 2400 sf. metal building. (40 x 60). No subdivision, no city taxes, lots and lots of grass, much better.
  18. 3 points
    Taking advantage of being at home. Decided to tidy up the rear end. I still have to replace the brake lines when I have some tube. This has been bugging me since I got it. With the new rubbers all the squeaks in the rear are finally gone.
  19. 2 points
    buening

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  20. 2 points
    RobotMan

    68 Hyland Green Fastback

    It was suggested I start a build thread for my 68 Hyland Green Fastback here by my fellow 69 buddies. After 2 builds with each of my sons on their 69 Mach 1s, I am beginning the 68 for my wife and I. Here is a starting picture of the car.
  21. 2 points
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry guys no6 had chance r]to do many updates. I work as a Chief Engineer/Head of Facilties for a group of hospitals in the U.K., so been rather busy with Covid19, but still getting sporadic hours on her, had a week off recently and spent It on the car. Summary; Put U pol raptor on inside, front rad support replaced, took hood, trunk and other panels down to bare metal, etch and high filler primer applied. started to get the panels back on and aligned, I really hate this part of the job ! hopefully the car will be collected for paint in next 1/2 weeks, going for a black top coat.
  22. 2 points
    Got the TCP tubs that are shaped like originals these add 2” and combined with the narrow leafs from Evergreen allow a 315 tire with enough clearance to avoid any rubbing. I did narrow the rear seat backrest, removing a section from the middle and reinforcing the joint. I also have a narrowed axle because I wanted the wheels to have dish.
  23. 2 points
    BuckeyeDemon

    69 mach 408w build

    i'll pass! wouldn't want to take away from the pleasure you could have! pushing on those dents, sanding for what seemed like hours.....
  24. 2 points
    RobotMan

    70 coupe electrical issues

    That Boss is off the hook!
  25. 2 points
    Northernstang

    In the beginning

    Heater box install.brake line maze.assembly time. Traction bars installed.
  26. 2 points
    newstang

    So Kamela and Joe...

    well, for starters some states do not require an ID to vote. so just about anyone can vote there. then just look at how this mail in crap worked out. ½ this country thinks this election was stolen. the other half is content because it was in their favor. but for 4 years they cried it was Russian interference. Well what if this election has had interference by Russia, notice how all of a sudden that is no longer a problem. they used this virus as an excuse not to go out to vote, but they have no problem going out everywhere else.
  27. 2 points
    A couple of people with pretty good credentials (Barnett and Bryonl) say not to use it. I doubt any of us would be using it at -40F so the only thing its got going for it is that it doesn't attack paint (which I really like). On the negative it has the soft pedal which can increase with altitude, and the corrosion problem. Personally my brake fluid only gets changed occasionally, hasn't been spilled on the paint and so far hasn't been a problem (knock on wood). I guess it depends if you drive at altitude, drive it a lot and need frequent maintenance, or intend to change the fluid often. I don't do any of those things, probably like you Ed, so it just doesn't matter:
  28. 2 points
    RPM

    Boss 302 shock tower reinforcements

    We all do staffy. Mike has tremendous talent, is kind enough to share his talent, and is truly a good and humble man. We are blessed to have him here. Happy Veteran's Day Mike, and all you other Vets, and thanks for your service.
  29. 2 points
    1969vert

    my 1969 project

    Alot of work today...hood aligned fenders aligned..new hood and scoop...a real pain to install and get ligned up...50 year old fenders and chinese hood..not a good match..the scoop is not a short boss... another pain...I just want to squirt some paint...wife is happy I'm working on it...been setting around for a few years...12 I think..don't get be started on hood hinges...
  30. 2 points
    Just to follow up on my own thread, I ended up going through the heater hose holes for my wiring. This worked since I have an A/C car and those heater hose holes were not used. I also mounted my controller in the glove box. I removed the liner so I can't store anything in there anymore though. I finished the install in early spring and highly recommend the 4R70W. It's a blast to drive now.
  31. 2 points
    Caseyrhe

    70 Landau Coupe Special

    Got to work on the car last Sat am, installed the new proportioning valve, bled brakes. Took new proportioning valve off, filed top of block, installed new cooper washer, bled brakes and FINALLY all looks good. Good pedal and brakes stop rear brakes. First test drive coming soon!!
  32. 2 points
    RPM

    Scorching hot alternator pulley

    If I were you, I'd go to great lengths to get the V belts to work. I didn't even think to try a double V belt when my single belt kept slipping with a ~100 amp alternator. I even used a turnbuckle to tighten the belt. Even though I dislike the serpentine belt look, it does work. My need to use the 100 amp alt was a classic rabbit hole affair, which I don't recommend. Since I just had to have a shaker air cleaner, tIhen found it sat too high thru the hood. Shoulda milled the Stealth intake, but lowered the motor. Which required custom motor mounts, engine crossmember, electric fans since stock interfered with lower radiator hose, custom tranny mounts to keep angle correct. All for a damn shaker. With dual fans, power windows, and stereo, I went big on the alternator. In hindsight, I'd keep it stock. Much more simple, and stock works just fine.
  33. 2 points
    Redstang69

    Correct Fuel Filter location

    I could be wrong but the original carbs were Autolites and they had the filter built into them. I'm far from a pro though, so don't take my word for gospel.
  34. 2 points
    DocWok

    408w breather caps or

    You would need both for the system to work correctly. A filtered air supply from your air cleaner to one valve cover OR a breather fitted to that cover. On the other valve cover you would need to hook up a PCV with vacuum supplied by either a intake manifold fitting OR a vacuum supply from your carb or carb spacer.
  35. 2 points
    This finger?
  36. 2 points
    OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you. Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not. your problem is more likely a connection problem. However, I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage. Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away. So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?" yes. "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS. The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage. After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops. Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." Freaking genius insight. Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely. Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged. So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount. Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on. At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit. Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection. Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car). The new Solid State versions don't look like this. Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme. Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack! Jay
  37. 2 points
    Rindelmach1

    Riots

    The libtarts are willing to spend 2 Trillion to destroy economy & cause riots because it is their game plan to hurt Trump. They want to take him down at all costs.
  38. 2 points
    Kris

    Headlight bucket fitment

    I had tried the washer already. I looked at my other fender and I saw where it didn’t have any gap between the inner bucket and the fender at the bottom. The fender that didn’t fit has an 1/8” gap. I drilled out the spot welds and moved it to match the other one and now it lines up perfect. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  39. 2 points
    Ridge Runner

    Riots

    Never worked a day in their lives brainwashed kids .they can push people around but if you push back they scream brutality ,i say we bring in Mad Max ! I am locked and loaded ,no one is getting in here with out a fight
  40. 2 points
    Mines been in the shop a few months. She got a NARDI steering wheel, modern BAER brakes in front, 18” Halibrand wheels wrapped in modern MICHELINs. last year I gave her new speakers & amp, EIBACH shocks, sway bars & springs w 1.5” drop in front cus she was riding way high when I got her
  41. 2 points
    newstang

    OK, this is freaky !

    We need to get the virus otherwise none will be immune. Id rather get it now at 55 than in 10 years and risk death
  42. 2 points
    RPM

    351C Cleveland fluids and tank questions

    This is a friendly forum. Roger has never been anything but friendly, and replied with friendly advice.
  43. 1 point
    A good pic is worth a thousand dollars. Even my 20 year old cheap paint job can look good in a pic.
  44. 1 point
    gnatsum

    Rob’s 1969 Mach 1

  45. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    MTF News

    You know you'll trigger some snowflakes with that shirt LOL
  46. 1 point
    Mike65

    70 Landau Coupe Special

    Looking good Casey.
  47. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Update, started to take a closer look at Sheet metal. In summary 3 main points; 1-inner fender pieces, LHD and RHS to replace as hood hinge fixings missing on both sides 2-LHS frame rail, firewall and floor, find the odd pickle point, so cutting out floor. less on RHS but going to cut that out when LHS done. 3-front rad core support piece, nr RHS top bit crusty And looks like a small fender bender in past so replacing whole unit with RHS inner fender panel as battery tray is rotten from below aside form that the car is solid. getting parts in U.K. proving really difficult, having to order via and circa 6 week delay and driving me mad eg global west subframe connectors ... joys of owning a US car over here in U.K.
  48. 1 point
    danno

    Wiper motor - rebuild or replace?

    Dog on it, I was slow in responding again. I was going to make the suggestion that the motor was not getting the full voltage. This actually could happen, just like the dim headlights on most of your cars. But if yours is working well, then it is getting full voltage. If there is 14 volts on the battery, there could be 11 volts at the wiper motor, which would cause it to run slow. I have not heard of this ever being a problem, but it could happen. In my car the voltage to the headlights was 11 volts when the battery was 14. So I added the headlight relay. My horn would not work because it was not getting enough voltage, so I added a horn relay. The wiper will be next? Congrats on yours, now move on to the other 6,234 problems.
  49. 1 point
    69Stanger408

    It is Time

    Tinman, didn't know this was you. I followed you home a few months ago, I was checking out the rear flip windows on your original for fitment in comparison with mine. Small world.
  50. 1 point
    SHELBY69

    My 69 Shelby GT350

    I’m keeping all the original parts I take off the GT350


×
×
  • Create New...