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First set is for TexasEd. They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights

Fitting on Jims hood, Looks amazing!

So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better

Started wiring the switches. Will be using some terminal blocks.

I went with Undercover innovations, Big noticeable difference in cooling. The temps dropped faster as it directs all air to the radiator instead of having the air hit all sides and try to lift the hood. you could make your own, I've seen some 69-70 trans am mustang with this setup.

Hi! My name is Kaitlyn and I bought a roller 1969 mustang back in march and I'm working on restoring it. I of course have a million questions and often times find myself feeling completely lost lol but i'm trying to take it one step at a time since its such a big project and I know it will end up being more expensive than i'm expecting. I'm sending it in next week to have some chassis work done (new floor pans, fixing some holes in the wheel wells, sandblasting, epoxy, etc.) because I felt like all of that should be done by a professional! My question for now is what's next, I feel like this is the first big thing I've done for the car, other than cleaning it out when I first got it and doing research as much as possible. Im sure there isn't an exact process but I just don't know exactly what direction I should go in after this, do I do electrical, brakes, interior? I know when it's time I want to put the 351 W in the car and I've been looking at the T5 transmission (5 speed manual trans, fairly sure it was common in the foxbody mustangs) Those are my basic questions for now, I've definitely got a lot to learn in this process but I'm excited to learn and watch the transformation of the car, it's crazy to think I have my dream car! I would love any advice anyone has!

I decided to give my harbor freight sander a try on the front of the cab ,it took it down to clean metal fairly quick with out a lot of effort. Hit a spot on the door and found it still has the old army green under the brown primer . These cabs are 19 gauge ,well thicker than a mustangs 20 -21 gauge ,its kind of like working on a 55 gallon drum . Smooth dents can be bumped out and usually need no bondo . I will sand the flat panels but i will have to sand blast everything else . The cowl vent will be filled in and the original firewall will come out so i can make a new one deeper set for a small block Ford to fit .

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing.

My first stage was front lowered EIBACH springs, shocks & fatter sway bars rear EIBACH shocks & fat sway bar. I also added AMERICAN RACING “Halibrands” wrapped in fat modern MICHELINS. She has front BAER brakes too. I have race cars so I just want a comfortable cruiser. inside I added Bluetooth, new speakers, NARDI steering wheel, and CORBEAU seats w custom upholstery and JEGS 4 point harness bcus the original upper harness is ridiculous to wear

On my 70, I ended up adding cup holders to my stock console using some magnets and cup holders that were purchased on Amazon. I have the TMI console for my 66, and it is good, but not great.

I got the old fire wall out ,that thing was really in there ,it looks like i need to pick up a sheet of 19 gauge sheet metal to build the new one . I am going to sand blast before i put in the new fire wall so i can get at everything .

A/C glove box fits both cars, but you can’t fit as many speeding tickets in it.

I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today. I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order. I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.

Damnit. I could have retired trying to fix that mess!

Oh I just knew you'd say something. They were all neatly zip tied to the main under dash harness, but took up too much room to fit the AC pieces I'm now installing. It'll work out fine grasshopper.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it. The automatic mode is really all I use. Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it. I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash. I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same. These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty. I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine. Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks. I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects. The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace. One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.

Congrats on the new shop. I wish I had that kind of space to expand into. Right now my oversized 3 car garage is a Tetris model, or more like a Rubix cube when moving things around. Your ceiling height is perfect. Being able to stand upright under the car is a real luxury.

I've been thinking I need to update my 80's vintage stock replacement front suspension too (creaks a lot) and Open Tracker has been on my radar ... need to open the wallet wider to go down the rabbit hole further !! Doug

Found new roller

I used the AOD. If I was to go with an overdrive again I would go with the 4R70W cost more for the electronic shifter but a much better transmission.

Here's how mine turned out. Don't know if it's correct because I could never find a photo anywhere to work from. PIA there is nothing to work off of.

I don't want to talk smack, but isn't this a picture of Randy as a child?

I would also add: -insurance sufficient funds in the glove compartment for bribing the local constabulary when caught speeding

When I glued in my windows on my 69 vert I used 3M Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive, 08641, 47.3 mL Cartridge with the Dispenser Gun, 50ml Dispensing Gun Kit Impression Mixing Dispensing Dispenser AB Gun 1:1/1:2 that I got on Amazon for $22. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMXTBW6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Everything worked great and it was so much easier than using a caulking gun with various items installed to try to make it work. Yes, I tried it and it was a disaster.

The bezel fits/holds fine even if both tabs are broken.

A common problem with 69/70 dash clusters is that the gauges (except ammeter) don't work. The reason is that one of the various posts of the gauges is touching the metal housing, which basically shorts all of the gauges. This often happens when one replaces the circuit card. To solve, take the dash out and loosen the 2 bolts for one of the gauges and re-set the gauge in the housing and re-tighten the bolts. If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between any one of the posts and the metal housing of the dash cluster. If you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the bolts is touching. You will spend a fair amount of time re-setting the gauges until you get a reading of kilo- or mega-ohms: that is the reading you want. You can't see the issue, as the view is obstructed by the circuit card and the cardboard insulation pad underneath the bolt nuts.

That engine had around 200hp, 295ft/lbs of torque from the factory with a Holley 4180. You might get 10-20 HP with just a cam change. The Stealth manifold fits well under the hood but again doesn't help more than 10%. The distributor does nothing for HP. If you want 400HP, that's doable but it will require a combination of carb/EFI, aluminum heads, intake, cam, headers, and exhaust. Something like an Edelbrock top end kit would simplify the choices, or you can blindly pick and choose and hope for the best. If you're like most of us and not an engine builder it will take a lot of research.

Doesn't make the manifold bad. Does make the 'lower oil baffle' bad. The purpose for the baffle is two-fold. Provide an insulated area below the carb. pad from hot air and hot oil splash. Brian

Ya, spending some time now checking might save you some trouble later. I'd use a digital level at the rear torque box, Front rails at torque box, and the front of the front rails.

I would love to walk around your place and take in everything you have. I have no idea how you tell the tiny difference of parts from piles of what looks like the exact same thing.

The two female plug has yellow/black (radio power) and blue/red (radio lamp power). The female plug in lower part of red circle is blue/red and is for lamp power for optional clock. The orange spliced wire is probably power for the turn signal flasher can.

Not a bad idea. If you do, make sure you use antisieze on the threads of dissimilar metal. I use it on threads of similar metal also.

I know this post is old BUT dude you made my day. I was trying to figure this set of wires out and lo and behold you pop up with the drawings.. Thank You SOOOO Much M1

Congrats! Looks wonderful!

I put this on my Vette, and intend on installing one on the Stang too: I used a Rear View Safety RVS-776718-CT mirror and camera ($280). Its camera was used in the front (for parking curbs) with RVS-778 ($100) for the back, and has a license plate bracket so you don’t need to drill holes in the body.

Yes u are correct. I got a 4R from a thunderbird and used for internals and Dan (Silverfox) helped me out with the valve body. He told me the tricks to do to it to make it shift properly. Then sold me the springs and governor parts for hardly nothing. It worked good I just never liked the nature of the AOD.

Picture with the blue arrow is not stock. My factory A/C car looks just like the other black interior piece.

Ed this is the one I used in my car. It was decent I guess but if I remember correctly I think I had to take the shifter plate off and put on top of console which made it set up higher. The shifter worked fine but it throw the selector pointer off a bit as I remember it. Have sold car since then so I can't confirm.

Lack of weld penetration from the back side pic, grind the cracks and weld the backside. Shock tower stress cracks are common, metal work hardens and cracks, weld it up and enjoy unless you are planning massive power upgrades later.

Nice job it looks great.

I have a 8.8 in my '68 coupe. Mine is from a Ford Explorer. The center pumpkin on those is offset, but it works fine. On the 8.8, you need to buy new spring perches for that diameter axle. Cut the old ones off, and also all the other brackets/attachments, as they get in the way. Take your old rear and the new rear lay them side by side. Measure the distance between the centerline of the perches on your old rear. Find the center of the 8.8 and mark it. Take 1/2 the perch to perch distance from the old rear and mark the centerline of the new perches on the 8.8. Go to your car, and double check the distance between your leaf springs. Check the distance from your backing plates to the center of the perches on the 8.8 to see if they are roughly even. Before you weld the new perches on, rotate the 8.8 to match the pinion angle of the old rear. I measured the angle as close as I could with one of those protractor/angle tools. Another thing you need to decide is what brakes you want to run on the new 8.8 rear. Now is the time to address that. Also, check the axle seals to make sure they are not leaking, and change the rear end fluid. Most of the 8.8 traction locks use a friction additive. Last thing is that you will need to modify your driveshaft length, and also the attachment at the rear end. The 8.8s use a different style, flat plate mount with those annoying metric multi point bolts. I am very happy with my 8.8 set up. Cost me less than $500 to get a 3.73 posi installed in my car.

Full power only in my house. 2 percent has too much sugar added. Although I'll eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting.

Welcome Josh. Mach1 Driver gave you spot on info that you can't go wrong with. As far as motors go, I wouldn't go any higher compression than 9.5ish with iron heads or 10.2 with aluminum. Pics! We love to see pics.

@Her69fastback wouldnt let me post a pic in messages

PIcs from my '70 Vert. Not sure if it will help or not....

MikeStang, it's hard to tell, but from the top view photo it looks like something is bent on the seat back. He mentioned he is going to try to adjust the brackets. Yeah, he did a nice job fitting the upholstery.