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Seriously. I would love to take care of this place.

A lot of these are for 69/70: https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/

I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car. Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around. If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes. Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.

Picked up another one of these things! This one is a 2006 GT with 120,000 miles on it ,black with black and red interior . These kids just keep messing them up and i just happen to have the parts to fix them good as new !already has new brakes all the way around and he just did the full front suspension . He fried the tranny but i just happen to have one here. I have everything to fix it ,even the black paint ...my new stable is growing ! Problem is i have enough parts to build one more ,damn it !

Generally speaking for an original system; the curved arm is for a 69 and the straight arm is for the 70. The brake switch fits onto the brake pedal post. The switches can be for manual brakes or power brakes. Brian

OK - here are a few things to take note of. My car was factory A/C car, so it had the vents. I did remove the lower dash vents and re-felt them. They are nice and stiff now. I hate the Vintage Air controls that came with the system. So Iam using the Dakota Digital Vintage Air controls. You can see a picture on instagram. @cruisercrap is my account. It matches well with the rest of the Dakota Digital Dash. You really need to remove the lower dash, I don't know how people claim to install it with out doing so. It did give me a chance to repaint the dash. I Scuffed and repainted with Krylon Industrial - Zoro.com (which is the consumer site of granger) has the best price $10.79 a can. Zoro part # G0742861 The install was easy, I took a few weekends, only because I rewired the dash, repainted the lower dash, ordered replacement switches, etc... It took me 3 tries to find the correct belt length!!!! Dayco 17560 worked for me. Other people used 175460. I charged it using my gauges, and estimating 1.8lbs of 134A. two 12 oz cans, and then estimated the rest using a scale. It worked ok. Then I took it to a friends shop, and used machine to evacuate - I realized I was several oz low. Using his $8K machine , we then put in the right amount of 1.8lbs. Did not even pay attention to the gauges. Works even better now. Leave your self enough slack on the ducts that attach to the middle OEM vent. I cut them a bit short, and it was a bitch getting that together!!! Last tip - Order a universal hose kit. Iam a Vintage Air dealer, and I always tell customers to do this. The reason is the hoses where a bit long, and the connectors where at the wrong angle. The A/C hoses are stiff and you really cant rotate a connector into place very easy. Being able to lay them out, mark the direction of the connectors, and have a local shop crimp the hose is worth it. I even replace one of the connectors from 90 degree angle to a 45 degree angle. I also used A/C and heater line clips from Squeeg's Hot Rob Shop. It make the install look great, no Zip ties. If I think of anything else... I'll post it here. -Mark

Stock rods are not too safe after 6. Stock rod bolts too? What valves are you running? The cam and 2v heads will probably save you getting from higher RPM anyway.

I have used a lot of after market sheet metal and i find most of it to be very good ,there is cheaper stampings that really dont fit worth a crap but parts like Dynacorn, i have had very few pieces i didnt like . I have made several 65 -68 fast back conversions and the guys always tell me their body guy is very happy with the turn out ,a couple told me the body work is pretty much the panel joints . I see people bitch and moan ...usually on face book , but its usually guys that dont have a clue what they are doing in the first place! With out these replacement panels most cars would probably not be fixable . Now you do need to do some gap work but the ford tooling panels right at the end were getting terrible. So with good original panels nearly gone i for one am very glad for the Tiawan panels

Thanks to all who got the site up and running again. This is a great group and we need to find a way to keep it going. Every time the site goes out, I feel like we just got kicked out of the Fraternity house and have no where else to go.... I hate being on Double Secret Probation... https://youtu.be/1tfK_3XK4CI?si=mbh_qhTDTzUe1CUa

Made a new end for the rear of the frame, made it out of square tube instead of c channel like the original ,the old one had seen better days . I drilled all the holes including the bumper bracket on the end ,i have the bumper brackets here some where.

The simplist and without mods would be that C4, if he rebuilt it correctly. While it may not be the optimal transmission, I'll all for getting these Mustangs on the road without necessarily building the perfect car.

While we're on the subject of solenoids, I would recommend to anyone who has an older Ford vehicle with the solenoid mounted on the inner fender to occasionally have someone start the vehicle while you observe the solenoid. This should be done with the ambient lighting low enough to visually observe an electrical arc if one is present, preferably at night. I had an older Mustang with the original solenoid still in it, no problems with starting at all. My Dad started the vehicle while I just so happened to be looking into the engine bay and sure enough, a large arc of electrical current ran from the housing to one of the mounting screws. After close examination I could see a small fracture had formed in the housing after about 50 years of age and heat cycling.

Been working on it when i get the time ,so not a lot ! I sanded down both doors ,the hood ,trunk lid and both front fenders ,got them primed and block sanded ,one more primer coat and a good block sand and they are ready for paint . Still have the front and rear bumper ,the side skirts and a couple of smaller pieces to sand and prime and i can start on the body . It will be painted in pieces because its black and i can do it that way so it will be painted in three stages ,body first,then the doors ,fenders ,hood and trunk lid ,then the plastic pieces . Using a new clear that cuts and bufs real easy so painting in pieces will allow me to take extra care with each piece .

Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s Here are some resources: 1. Boosterdeweyexchange.com 2. Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing 3. The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service 4. Harmon Classic Brakes

Apparently, a BOT was using enough bandwidth that the system ran out of allotted bandwidth. The service provider has apparently blocked that from happening again. But yes, more money paid to the provider would allow more bandwidth to be used per month.

Some of us old farts like taking naps...

Opened my oil pump up. Wanted to see if it was still good. Looks like something got between the housing and the gears gouging them. You can barely feel it but I'll replace the pump while I have the engine apart.

Not being able to post pics kind of sticks a fork in . I have been busy so not much time to spare . Got most of the project from others out of the shop so i may be able to work on something of mine soon . I would like to get the 4.6 3 v dropped in my 56 fairlane and start tearing into it. Although i do need to get the 69 blasted and in epoxy primer.

The video isn't quite correct. I'm the original owner of a 69 Mach1 that by coincidence is the same color as in the video. I was 19 when I bought it new. The reason there were no screws in the kit for the lanyards to attach to the core support is because the loop in the lanyard was simply pushed down over the pin, not screwed to the core support. Also, the lanyards were not routed through the grill, they just lay on top of it. The only difference I see in the kit and the original parts is that the swaging sleeves used to make the loops in the lanyards are much larger than on the originals. Its too bad you can't buy just the lanyards from Ford anymore but this appears to be the closest reproduction available now. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced those over the years because the protective plastic covering on the lanyards cracks and falls off as it ages.

I have used https://imgbb.com/ with success in the past.

I don't know about Phil, but I still delete a lot of bot posts.

Why not just buy a regular jug of Prestone and top it yourself with distilled water ? Cheaper that way

I haven't used this personally yet, but am considering it. It has pretty positive reviews around the interwebs. https://outofsightaudio.com/ There are also some dedicated bluetooth amps that can do it as well. I found the Out of Sight interesting because it's small and offers flexibility.

Machspeed, I did this a couple of weeks ago. In order, the two bolts with J-nuts at the wheel opening. The captured nut that goes in the valance from the inside, then from the outside through the bracket that attaches to the bumper. Top center of the valance, attaches to the center support with a J-nut on the support. (a couple of these I couldn't get to focus) The bolt that goes through the valance in the front and attaches to the headlight extension with a J-nut on the extension. And from the back Last is the bottom of the main support that attaches to the core support. Usually there's a J-nut on this, but the new spoiler came with a nut and bolt I used instead. No spoiler then it's definitely a J-nut. Reverse for the other side.

Big ass hammer always does the job ! I kind of drew up a pattern using harbor freight rollers ,if i can get some 1 3/4 tubing today i may play around with the bender and see what i can come up with .

My trunk lid is OEM as is the spoiler, both original to the car. Unfortunately, my car is an early 69 build and does not have the oval cutout. I do have a bracket but it is not like that and does not protect the deck from what has transpired in the pictures above. If I recall correctly, the owner that bought the car new had the dealership install all the spoilers and window louvers. Anyway, bought an aftermarket lid tonight that has the correct cut out for that bracket. Keeping my fingers crossed that the aftermarket lid is a good one.

I heated up a rod for the different sized holes. Worked pretty well.

Just wanted to confirm the caliper is on the right side. This was according to the part number. Thanks

https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=13701 Here's a link to the host hotel booking page. The official Bash is Saturday October 5th, but guys start showing up Thursday afternoon to catch up with friends. There will be updates on the MustangSteve site up until the event.

Trying to drill out those rivets in the cut up radiator brackets ,i broke off a drill bit! The metal is like drilling a lead steel mix and it grabs drill bits ,kind of like stainless steel ! After a few good cuss words ...did i say a few ? I got the last rivet out with a diamond grinder bit

This 35 truck bed is a deal at 2,200.,it is un assembled but i have built at least 4 so it no problem ,it is every piece to build a complete bed and for the same price they will ad the wood floor and stainless trim . I get a little farther along and i will order one ,this is from Mack Products and they are just like the original .

I got the two frame ends blasted and primed ,not a lot of pitting ,mainly where it had a hitch bolted over the frame but still nothing bad . The rest of the frame is heavily painted ,it was hard to blast off the ends so i am thinking the main rails will be in great shape! He cut these ends with what looks like a chop saw blade about 1/8 inch think so i will have to leave a gap when i weld them back on ,i will use a chop saw blade to space it

Damn. Sorry to hear that, and hope things work out for you.

Pretty sure that was Zray on VMF. After a few overnight hotel stays with your Mustang parked in the lot, your level of anxiety drops considerably.

Old switch, note exposed copper contact material New switch from EBay US parts seller UL listed industrial switch

I finally did get back there. Thanks for the hand on starting from the firewall side connections. I have them staged in an area where I can move them around, so I’ll probably put the dash in and see what happens, let the fun begin….

when I did mine I wire brushed it the best i could and used a primer made just for rust. I believe it was Mastercoat series . It is sand able and u can top coat it with most any kind of paint. worked really well for me.

NPD and all the others sell them. If your car has the holes still, I'd put them in to keep the dirt out. That's why I'm doing it. If you replaced the panels and the holes aren't there, personally, I wouldn't bother. I don't think any of us are doing the heavy, everyday driving or letting them sit outside where we'd have to worry about the trunk needing to drain. But that's one person's opinion.

Quick note about using powder-coat/painted parts that are relied on for chassis grounding to complete lighting and other electrical circuits. I had to add a separate ground wire to my parking/turn signal lights that mount to the front bumper. The bumper is powder-coated, and the parking light housings are painted in black epoxy. My screws are also coated black. When I tested the lights, one side was very dim. The other side flickered. Ground wire fixed the issue so both sides have a consistent level of illumination.

Repeating some of the same here. The booster shouldn't affect the switch, but maybe you got a manual switch for an auto (or vice versa)? The price difference between the two is pretty significant if I remember right. Even though it works, the booster you have will likely fail sooner than later. How soon will likely depend on how much you drive your car. Definitely watch that WCCC video to understand why, or just for all around knowledge. Brakes will still work, so no worries. And if you do decide on a rebuild of one, thumbs up for Booster Dewey.

I don't know the length off the top of my head. Each year seems to be different as well. This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all. Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so. Corrosion at contact points are well above this level. Unfortunately, this is not a precision system. Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well.

Modified cowl panel. Tacked 1/8 rod around perimeter on the bottom, cut away the slots, tacked 1/4-20 studs on the bottom side, welded shut washer nozzle mount holes, drilled new washer nozzle holes on top, sanded, skim coat of bondo, sanded smooth, primed, wet sanded, primed again. It'll get aluminum or SS mesh and the studs trimmed if too long. I have 3 more of these if it doesn't workout.

This guy forgot about installing the fender extension moldings before attaching them to the fenders. It can be done when the extension is bolted to the fender, but I'd rather stack BBs that do that again.

Hey Mike, looks good. Not sure if you are planning to use any LED tail lights. I have them on both my cars, they have a built in sequential function. Not that expensive, and they look cool. Vic

PS Mach 1 rocker installed.

As mentioned before the switch for power brakes is more sensitive that the one for manual brakes, there is thread about this somewhere on the forum. A more drastic solution could be installing a proportioning valve combo unit that has an integrated fluid pressure switch like the one attached. I'm Installing one of these while I replace brake lines and plan to try it.

Hear is a picture when I got the 70tie. Thanks for the welcome.

I mistyped when I entered 9/14, I meant to pick 9/24.

I dropped the sump, added about a 1/3 tube of Dow Corning black silicone to each end. After about 50 miles, no leaks. Hoping it stays that way. Repop trash......