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Following https://autoworksparts.com/ Instagram, they announced they have a deal with all dakota digital products. Definitely give autoworks a call if you dont have instagram and they can give you a price, I've been told by others its a $335 discount (friend got quoted for 67-68 rtx gauges), tax & shipping is not included. Will post on here with what I get with the RTX 69 mustang gauges,

alight spoke with autoworks, the offer is only today and tomorrow, so I recommend giving them a call asap if you are wanting to buy dakota digital, I believe this deal is happening is because they buy their stuff in bulk and are placing their order EOD tomorrow. for the RTX gauges, it is $950 (345 discount), plus $30 shipping (not sure if shipping price varies depending on state) but give them a call.

Just build your own. Put the tubes where you want them...

I think that is probably ok then. I will have to go back and look at my gap, but appears to be the same.

With the original Bendix booster on my 69 Mach 1 the master cylinder can be removed without having to remove the brake booster. I guess I got lucky. From what I understand, the clutch rod from the Z-bar to the pedal might interfere with a 9" diameter booster. I don't know how true that is. If that rod clears a 9" diameter booster, that would solve some issues with stock clutch linkage and a Borgeson power steering box.

More pics.

Going to paint on Monday! Well the time is finally arrived! Applied the Lizard Skin and painted the engine compartment Eastwood Chassis Black. Can't wait to see it get a nice coat of Calypso Coral. I still need to touch up the red oxide just a bit underneath.

I think Topher just wants to go from manual to power brakes? Master Power brakes makes high quality stuff, they are located close to me in Mooresville, NC. I have their power brake master cylinder in my 1970 convertible. You should call them directly to make sure you get exactly what you need for your car. I also think you can order direct from them. You will need to change your brake pedal. This is one of those Mustang curses. Lot's of variations and the brake pedals look very similar. Master Power Brakes sells them, and they are really nice and very competitive in pricing, I have one of theirs in my car. Good info from Mustang Steve on this topic here: https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html If you want to go to disc brakes, OpenTracker is high quality outfit. Lots and lots of other options. Good luck. Feel free to fire away any questions you may have.

Here is the mod i did for the door handles. i made a replacement for the latch out of ⅛ stock/ the original part is cast aluminum? that would probably break if you tap the 8-32 thread into it.

Mike and I finished restoring the 2 outer AC vents today. Turned out nice. Drilled out the stakes and replaced with small machine screws. Will be able to service in the future. Was able to refresh the felt inside and the louvres now hold and turn nicely.

I have a 1970 convertible with a 351W (393 stroker). I have an C-6 automatic. I chose Heddman Shorty Headers, which are powdercoated. This was to avoid interference under the car. It was a tight squeeze. I used adjustable motor mounts, which helped clear the steering box on the drivers side. I have custom exhaust that was fabricated by Latoracing (on the fourm). Mike can pipe in with details if you need them. The challenge with convertibles is to get the crossover pipe in, and then get the exhaust pipes routed in the space above the convertible re-inforcing plate under the car. We also decided to run the exhaust out through the rear valence, where Mike did his wizardry with sheet metal and exhaust routing. Came out cool. I used Magnaflow mufflers. I actually have not heard the car run with the Magnaflows, but it will be louder than most people like. I am sure you will get a lot of suggestions on the mufflers, there are so many choices available. The headers are really high quality and fit without any denting/hammering. I also used stage 8 locking bolts. The bolt locations are a bitch to get to, so be patient.

Are your Koni shocks old and worn out? If not, it seems like a downgrade to KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. If you have stronger than stock springs, the KYB shocks will make the ride more harsh.