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Bots are hitting the site and causing the issues. I am working with tech support still to try and fix it. I thought it was already resolved. There is another issue with upgrading the forum software I need to take care of but it currently crashes the entire forum so I am unwilling to do so until I have ample time to devote to it. I am hoping to have the bot issue resolved by the end of the week. Just a little update for you guys. Bandwidth upgrade would only be a bandaid and not a full solution, so do not feel obligated to donate any more money. And thanks for your donations so far that should cover the monthly losses for the remainder of the year.

I will just leave this here

the replacement clutch setup that went in last year is operating and holding well now. i know i'm shifting at 7800+. i also have the throttle adjusted so it's opening all the way. just trying to find the right time in the next few weeks to get it to the track. except for some shock adjustments and removing the tool kit from the back seat, i will track it just as the car is setup for the street.

Apologies I’ve not posted any updates recently, but the good news she is finally only the road over here in the U.K.. Had a number of issues such as timing and brakes, so it went way for a few weeks to someone I know to sort it out Still got some seals to fit, miscellaneous jobs to sort out, but it’s first run out was last weekend to a local show. It drove well and I’m so pleased with it. So it is true that good things come to those who wait ! chris

Been away from here for a while, but finished up the interior this weekend

Just finished my tree decoration.

After fixing the prior accident damages on left rear quarter, left door, and a few common rust repairs and some panel alignment, I decided to take care of the old respray paint and painted to original color in base coat/clear coat. Then decided to take care of the knocking original 302 (due to broken piston skirt) by replacing it with an early 80s 302 I had. Converted to manual steering using parts from one of my other cars while keeping the power steering box. Then grafted a Prius electric steering to my original column. Had been daily driving it for the last 8 months with the original upholstery. Decided that it is time to update the upholstery. They do not reproduce 69 Grande upholstery in nugget gold, so bought some material and made my own.

Finely completed only if.. You never drive it. Never look at it . Never look at another mustang. Never get a parts catalog in the mail. Never go on the internet. Never wake up in the middle of the night. Never find yourself with a pile of money with nothing to really do with it. If you can live by these rules you are safe...….

First set is for TexasEd. They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .

Sorry gentlemen for the site being down. My hosting company upgraded something and broke the website. Creating a local backup now, incase of future f ups. Also my email has been cleared for future communications.

Well fixed perfect. I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod, the result is perfect pedal height great brakes. so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter. the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost . he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master. I will never really know.. but it is done. I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help thank..,sam thanks

Well I’m pleased to say that the car came back to me 2 weeks ago from the paint shop. I’m so pleased with it, the paint finish from the shop is just sublime. Now for the hard work of putting it call back together. Chris

Here are the photos with the new LED Headlights.

a couple of updates if anyone is still out there.... restored a 78 honda cb550 four. was simply a means of getting a little time away from the falcon....

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by. Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol. I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done. Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.

Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone.

a friend of mine, who loves photography took pictures of my car. looks pretty good!

Pretty cool pic from last night. Mike working in blaster with car in foreground at night!

Mike took a cool pic today in the shop. His car body in the background with his brother’s Mach in the foreground.

Here are pictures of a completed pan based in n the T sump kits I am making. just got them back from plating

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007 Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb. The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate. I think it looks good installed.

Some more pictures I forgot to post earlier

Update on this bump steer. Borgeson stated they had not found an issue in all their installs. They did suggest to pull the pitman arm and see if any paint was preventing it form sitting higher up on the sector shaft, which was going to be plan B. Whilst thinking about the steering I pulled the sump to fix the rear main seal leak. Half a tube (literally) of Dow Corning black silicone later it was back on. It don't leak so far, fingers crossed. Looked up and the p/s pump had a weep from the pressure hose. Reefed on that fitting to tighten it. Whilst under there I had a look at the tie rod ends. Found out that I had been supplied 1969 items, not 70 which may not have helped the steering issue. I replaced them with new 1970 ones. I thought I'd try another shop for a wheel alignment, so I went to one recommended by another Stang owner, which luckily was 20 minutes away. An hour later, the new shop had pretty much dialled out the problem. It's not *perfect* but it is much better than it was. I'm glad that is sorted. Last, found a helpful person on the Holley Sniper forum, who gave me some tips and provided a new configuration file. The PCV valve was the older flapper style so I spent 28 bucks on Amazon getting a fixed orifice one, and plumbed it into the front vacuum port of the Sniper. The oil breather cap was also puking oil out when I gave it a Big Rev, so I replaced it with a Cleveland (uurrgghh) style cap with the hose into the air cleaner. It still leaks, but only slightly. The new tune was pretty wild - lit up the rears in first and second on power, and rolling in second it would light them up at will. (I had some fun with a sports bike behind me, showing him the side stripe at will). Not really practicable but, so I pulled the timing back a bit which has toned it down. But I miss the sideways action so I might stick a couple of degree's more timing back in (insert evil emoji here). But it sounds alright I think. IMG_0523.MOV After all that, I finally washed it after 10 months of shop dust got to me, and hit with a random DA polisher and some Poor Boys EXP paint sealant. It's a good looking car from 10 feet but the paint is crud and I have managed to put all sorts of chips and marks in the paint. Lucky I prefer drivers not show queens.

While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale. The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape. The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K. But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year. I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark. Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang. I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA. I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could. Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned. So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son. I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere. I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time. That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price. Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted. So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person. I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine. As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again. I bought it on the spot. So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements. I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital. Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs). I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process. At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited! Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation. I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1. I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST. My original Mustang from high school: My new Mustang:

I went to pick up my power window kit for my '70 convertible. These come highly recommended from local restoration shops. I have no affiliation with the supplier, had never been there before, but as it was driving distance, I decided to go over and pick up my window kit. What I found was a small family run business in a small town called East Bend, NC, population 620. It is located on the East Bend of the Yadkin River, near Winston Salem. The owner personally hooked me up with the right regulators, motors, and switch combination. I went back in the shop, and all of the steel parts are laser cut right there. All of the hardware was very high quality. I chose the billet switch option, which uses a chrome plated billet base for the 4-switch option I chose for my console. The kit uses brand new GM switches and harness connectors. So, if you are looking for an honest to god Made in the USA power window kit, check these guys out.

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights

Just adding my two cents to this thread... I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many, if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment. In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires. I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking. It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.

Who ever told you that they didn't make Mustang convertibles in 1969 is just odd and should never be listened to seriously.

Here are some photos of the Dakota Digital gauge swap, before and after. Dakota Digital VHX Original Gauges: New Gauges: New Gauges Installed: New Gauges Installed and On:

Swapped out the old radiator and crappy fan with a complete kit from West Coast Classic Cougar. The kit includes a new 3 core 24” big block radiator, fan shroud, big block fan with clutch, and all the mounting hardware. The swap was easy and fit was great. Cooling System Upgrade Kit

I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?

National Mustang Convention in New Zealand won best in show, best in class and entrance choice. Another show with 100k spectators won Top 20 for Fords. Craig has done very well at all the shows.

I always wanted to add motorized side view mirrors to our cars. Well in my case my 1970 Mach 1 project car. I have seen posts where folks have adapted 2015 Mustang side view mirrors to a 1969 Mustang, but I wanted to have a more original look. Well with some research, a few parts from a (non-Ford) donor car and some fabrication and experimentation, I made it work. As an added bonus, I incorporated sequential LED directional lights to the package. I made very little mods to the original mirror. Obviously a hole thru the inside of the pedestal and the housing where the two meet for the wires. Also needed to fashion a custom mount bracket inside to mount the motor and mirror. Check out the video attachment file at the bottom of the passenger side it in operation..... Motorized Side View Mirrrors.mp4

Not directly Mustang related but it stores a mustang so there's that. I've been wanting to have a nice finished garage ever since we built out house 15 years ago so I finally got off my duff and did it. All new paint top to bottom, new cabinets, big screen TV, and professionally done floors. Couldn't be happier with the results. Now I make my wife take her shoes off when she come in it from the house Mustang related I've installed an electric trunk release, retrosound stereo, chased squeaks and rattles, had the exhaust reworked.... Been a product season for me.

Patch is all ready to tack in place. There is some tape on the back holding it up. The general fit, tack, beat, repeat until it is all fully welded. A little sanding and its ready for more beating. Sanding the inside is helpful to get a smooth finish. Between filing off the proud weld, more beating and a ton of planishing it looks presentable. Once again, I left some of the minor imperfections that will only require some putty to get ready for primer. There are a couple of places I'm going to take care of while I'm at it, then it"s on to the passenger side fender.

After nine months of everything put into storage, it has now returned, and I'm now back in harness refurbishment operation as of Feb. 23, 2020.

We do things differently at MTF, we take of the customer first, then deal with the manufacturer :)

A member on another forum was needing this part ,it is the inner rear door post for a 67 68 fast back ,they are available only in a full door frame kit . A couple of paper templates ,a little bead rolling and a usable part came to be .they are not exact but if you cant find them you has to make um

Still doing a bit of finishing off with the conversion. The original plastic cover that goes around the steering column no longer fits so I had to make one. I chose steel because it’s easiest to work with. I’d hate to be paying me by the hour. Probably 40 hours in this. I’m a bit slow and drink too much. Pretty happy with how it turned out

A new meaning for the term "bullet connectors".

Getting closer.....

First pic of the cars together.

The guy just sent me a couple of pics of the last 67 conversion i did and it is really looking good ,black with silver stripes and red interior

I'd recommend stepping up to a used Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town Car.