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I will just leave this here

Been away from here for a while, but finished up the interior this weekend

Just finished my tree decoration.

After fixing the prior accident damages on left rear quarter, left door, and a few common rust repairs and some panel alignment, I decided to take care of the old respray paint and painted to original color in base coat/clear coat. Then decided to take care of the knocking original 302 (due to broken piston skirt) by replacing it with an early 80s 302 I had. Converted to manual steering using parts from one of my other cars while keeping the power steering box. Then grafted a Prius electric steering to my original column. Had been daily driving it for the last 8 months with the original upholstery. Decided that it is time to update the upholstery. They do not reproduce 69 Grande upholstery in nugget gold, so bought some material and made my own.

Finely completed only if.. You never drive it. Never look at it . Never look at another mustang. Never get a parts catalog in the mail. Never go on the internet. Never wake up in the middle of the night. Never find yourself with a pile of money with nothing to really do with it. If you can live by these rules you are safe...….

First set is for TexasEd. They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .

Sorry gentlemen for the site being down. My hosting company upgraded something and broke the website. Creating a local backup now, incase of future f ups. Also my email has been cleared for future communications.

Well fixed perfect. I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod, the result is perfect pedal height great brakes. so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter. the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost . he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master. I will never really know.. but it is done. I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help thank..,sam thanks

Well I’m pleased to say that the car came back to me 2 weeks ago from the paint shop. I’m so pleased with it, the paint finish from the shop is just sublime. Now for the hard work of putting it call back together. Chris

Here are the photos with the new LED Headlights.

a couple of updates if anyone is still out there.... restored a 78 honda cb550 four. was simply a means of getting a little time away from the falcon....

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by. Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol. I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done. Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.

Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone.

a friend of mine, who loves photography took pictures of my car. looks pretty good!

Whipped up a little handy dandy hood puller this morning ,yanked that sucker right out like a tooth ! Only problem i could find with the hood was i was light on the gel coat on one of the scoops but that is not a problem ,i just have to take a little more care spraying up in there in the mold . I sat it on the 70 ,nothing bolted down and it just about a perfect fit .i even held the headlight buckets in place to get some pics . I will have to pull out one of my 69 and bolt it all down ,hinges and all

Pretty cool pic from last night. Mike working in blaster with car in foreground at night!

Mike took a cool pic today in the shop. His car body in the background with his brother’s Mach in the foreground.

Here are pictures of a completed pan based in n the T sump kits I am making. just got them back from plating

Just adding my two cents to this thread... I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many, if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment. In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires. I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking. It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.

Catching up on some mini projects while I’m home for the holidays. I have my LED tail light assembly‘s together, and did some quick checks of my tail light wiring harness, and connections, to make sure everything was working OK. everything seems to be working well, I just need to get an LED flasher, to check out my sequential tail lights. You will probably notice my powder coated tail light housings, that’s keeping with my all black trim theme. Should be pretty cool.

Who ever told you that they didn't make Mustang convertibles in 1969 is just odd and should never be listened to seriously.

Here are some photos of the Dakota Digital gauge swap, before and after. Dakota Digital VHX Original Gauges: New Gauges: New Gauges Installed: New Gauges Installed and On:

Swapped out the old radiator and crappy fan with a complete kit from West Coast Classic Cougar. The kit includes a new 3 core 24” big block radiator, fan shroud, big block fan with clutch, and all the mounting hardware. The swap was easy and fit was great. Cooling System Upgrade Kit

I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid. What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green. First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses. Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation. This line burned half-way through the harness. Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem! After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried. This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness. What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...) Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start. #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid). Hmmm...a clue here! Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short. But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil. But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points. Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs. The majority of the time, the points act as a ground. Aha! Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds. This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system. And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time. I bet you didn't know this, eh?

Sue had her last round of chemo today, got to ting the bell. Just wrapping up the cold caps now. Yahoo!!!!! Meet with radiation team in 2 weeks, so hopeful for a good 2021 Thanks guys for all the thoughts and prayers

National Mustang Convention in New Zealand won best in show, best in class and entrance choice. Another show with 100k spectators won Top 20 for Fords. Craig has done very well at all the shows.

I always wanted to add motorized side view mirrors to our cars. Well in my case my 1970 Mach 1 project car. I have seen posts where folks have adapted 2015 Mustang side view mirrors to a 1969 Mustang, but I wanted to have a more original look. Well with some research, a few parts from a (non-Ford) donor car and some fabrication and experimentation, I made it work. As an added bonus, I incorporated sequential LED directional lights to the package. I made very little mods to the original mirror. Obviously a hole thru the inside of the pedestal and the housing where the two meet for the wires. Also needed to fashion a custom mount bracket inside to mount the motor and mirror. Check out the video attachment file at the bottom of the passenger side it in operation..... Motorized Side View Mirrrors.mp4

I'm a bit embarrassed that it's been 16 months since my last post. A lot have happened since then, but not so much with the Mustang. But there is some progress. In October last year I became a father for the second time, so now I got two boys that keeps me away from the garage. It's how it goes. With the Mustang, I've been chipping away at the ole' block that is the wireing harness. It's just that when I'm away from it a while, I kinda gotta start from scratch the next time to get the overview. Anyway, here's some pictures. Programmed the instrument panel contact Placed the Autocoolguy fan controller behind the drivers headlight splash shield. Mounted the fenders and headlight buckets to get the placement of them for the headlight wireing. Also did the blackout on the part of the headlight buckets which is behind the grille. I've done some more minor stuff too, bet not everything is photographed. I hope to move forward at a steadier pace than what I have been.

Not directly Mustang related but it stores a mustang so there's that. I've been wanting to have a nice finished garage ever since we built out house 15 years ago so I finally got off my duff and did it. All new paint top to bottom, new cabinets, big screen TV, and professionally done floors. Couldn't be happier with the results. Now I make my wife take her shoes off when she come in it from the house Mustang related I've installed an electric trunk release, retrosound stereo, chased squeaks and rattles, had the exhaust reworked.... Been a product season for me.

Patch is all ready to tack in place. There is some tape on the back holding it up. The general fit, tack, beat, repeat until it is all fully welded. A little sanding and its ready for more beating. Sanding the inside is helpful to get a smooth finish. Between filing off the proud weld, more beating and a ton of planishing it looks presentable. Once again, I left some of the minor imperfections that will only require some putty to get ready for primer. There are a couple of places I'm going to take care of while I'm at it, then it"s on to the passenger side fender.

After nine months of everything put into storage, it has now returned, and I'm now back in harness refurbishment operation as of Feb. 23, 2020.

We do things differently at MTF, we take of the customer first, then deal with the manufacturer :)

A member on another forum was needing this part ,it is the inner rear door post for a 67 68 fast back ,they are available only in a full door frame kit . A couple of paper templates ,a little bead rolling and a usable part came to be .they are not exact but if you cant find them you has to make um

Still doing a bit of finishing off with the conversion. The original plastic cover that goes around the steering column no longer fits so I had to make one. I chose steel because it’s easiest to work with. I’d hate to be paying me by the hour. Probably 40 hours in this. I’m a bit slow and drink too much. Pretty happy with how it turned out

A new meaning for the term "bullet connectors".

Today was a nice day so I rolled the engine out of the garage & installed the valve covers & the headers. The bottom end is stock, the heads are Ford Racing M-6049-X306 w/Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers, cam is Ford Racing M-6250-B303, & the headers are Hedman 88408 Shorties.

Getting closer.....

First pic of the cars together.

The guy just sent me a couple of pics of the last 67 conversion i did and it is really looking good ,black with silver stripes and red interior

You probably need to ask on a Cougar forum. I just work on wires; I don't have access to the various cars to give you an answer as to where things go. That said, you should talk to my wife: she tells me where to go all the time...and it is usually only one place...

You do not want to search ,hot tranny

I'd recommend stepping up to a used Grand Marquis or Lincoln Town Car.

Brother's 70 Boss 302. Just play'in around. Those aren't pizza cutter tires on the rear either!

Saturday morning came early last weekend. Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise. A few pics for anyone interested. The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall. Beach pictures taken down on East Beach. They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made. Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress... Jay