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It's the 3.5 inch hand held screen that came with the sniper. I slapped together a magnetic mount, that way I can remove it and stick it in the glove box. It was not going to be a permeant solution, but's it worked out well, and I have not come up better solution! Being magnetic, I can angle it, and move it around easily. I used a round magnet that sticks to a round disc (from a old cell phone mount) and a Keeper MG hand gun magnet from Amazon.

Yup, 69. Not much left of it.

That car is pretty rough from the pictures. I would def go look at it before working any deal. I think your going to find it is worse than the pictures, they really don’t show much. My car was a solid car to start with. I did not need to get into the structure to repair rust. However, it had previous crash damage that took a bit of work. Fortunately I purchased for a great price long before skyrocketing prices in the last few years. It is out of paint now and I’m going to have quite a bit of $ and effort in it before I’m driving. All this to say you should buy the best car you can find, period. You will thank yourself later!

UPDATE: I'm cautiously optimistic. When I got home from work last night I took off the tape and checked the cured JB Weld. It seemed pretty solid. So I took the Steel Stick and covered over the JB Weld and extended it up into the base recess and let it setup for 5 minutes. I then attached it loosely to the car, waited an hour and then torqued down the screws. The mirror seems more solid than before, and I opened and closed the door a few times to check for any movement. Today I drove the Mustang to work and the mirror stayed rock steady the whole way. I'm pleased with the repair so far; the crack is barely noticeable, though if you run your finger across it you can definitely feel it. I had ordered a replacement mirror from NPD which should be arriving today. My plan was to return it if this worked, but I may hang onto it as an "in case" so I have a backup to get painted if my repair fails.

PSA - I took a chance on some ebay floor mats from Turkey. They turned out much better than expected, and arrived with in a week. They are actually cut to correct shape, not a universal shape like my ACC mats. (Acc is the one on the right. ) He also said he can do custom shapes, I need one for my trunk.

Test fitting the matching Dakota Digital controls.

Just one thing you my not be aware of; the engine offered in 69 was a 351w (Windsor), and is different than the 70 351c (Cleveland). You should look up the differences. The 351c was more high performance back in the day, but only made for 5 years, so parts are a bit pricy. It seems like everyone makes performance upgrades for the 351w, which was in production from 69 to 96.

Guess I should make a tool for this ,possibly a t handle ? But a large boxed end wrench is easy and everyone probably has one !

Yeah, thanks to these forums and my experience with the 71 coupe and 77 corvette my eyes are definitely open. I feel like it's golden opportunity to own a very iconic car and year model. I would be happy with just getting it back on the street rolling safely little by little.

Welcome. That car looks like could probably be saved, but as pointed out, it's going to take a lot of work and money. I'd offer less than $10K, since there's no drivetrain and nearly all the sheet metal is bad. As mentioned above, confirm it' what it's advertised to be, not all fastbacks are Mach 1's. It sounds like you've got the right attitude, it's gotta be a labor of love because you will end up upside down on the money and time invested but it can be rewarding if you end up with an old Mustang you enjoy. Not trying to discourage you but go in with your eyes open and know it's going to be a long haul.

More better?

It was 70° this morning after I got home from work, so I figured I would get in some Mustang time. I pulled the valve covers, distributor & spark plugs. I used a cordless drill long 1/4" drive extension & small socket to prime the engine with oil. Timed the engine, re-installed the spark plugs, valve covers & the distributor.

I hate a$$holes who knowingly sell damaged goods with disclosure. My motor runs best at 18° base timing. I never told anyone cuz it was so high, but reading online about other's timing it is quite common.

I did the same for my Sniper handheld. Made up a steel bracket so I can hang my phone off there as well and hung it under the HVAC controls (No console in my poverty pack). Used an old phone mount and the stick on magnet on the handheld. Helps with getting it away from the sun glare during the day. There's some folks making a column mount for the Sniper,

I saw your pictures and just ordered a set myself. Thank you for the PSA. I have always been disappointed in every set of carpet mats I have bought. These look nice in your car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134916462214?_nkw=mach+1+floor+mats&itmmeta=01J7EBN007MN66P4HMF2EG50AE&hash=item1f69a5d686:g:5QsAAOSwWVZlu~Eg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnBWHB9EDpykXUN0s9HVlLbdv8CS%2Bu7JYFCmECejuTbXq4QLqZ2lKNsaakoTvtfTZw5Z60b4sttYkUFuGwf3jUn6rQCfFFPDQX68TRiS1OL9qB4sA3MfYX3LGRRoFlWBG0gMGVhGrArSHGo%2Fi3MKYnwyp3vxPWpJRxlNsapB4x%2FG9tBzwxy34jimvNhkhVKbn8BUk2vEGUC35aD1iXTc%2BaXJzFRQxlQSFvMUsz45sac5WnSLoJiTMqA14baUCIkOoro8F1gwVFP7ZCmAJTBh3UB%2FqFkbpYIvAzS5dW3ZvZ0lQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6CA1Mu7ZA

Looks great! Anymore detail on your Holley handheld mount in front of the shifter? Very tidy!

Less than a week remains to get your Mustang Steve Bash T-shirts ordered. Some of y'all are gonna end up waiting to long and miss out on an award winning design. https://www.customink.com/g/pdx0-00cw-c4v9

Two days ago, I refurbished my 1000th underdash harness! I started the business on March 22, 2008, so it has taken some time to get to this point! Most of the work has been on harnesses, but there have been 53 Cougars, a smattering of Torinos, Montegos, and Falcons, but no trucks. My first truck was yesterday, # 1001! I would have reached this point earlier, but I've had 2 back surgeries, one hip replacement, and a Cat5 hurricane that interrupted work. Based upon the number of Mustangs produced, I was expecting more 65/66's than later years, but that's not the case. Clearly, 69 and 70's are the most popular, with 68 close behind, with all three accounting for 50% of my work. Part of this may be due to the costs and availability of reproductions (there are no 71-73 repros).

First make sure the problem is with the switch. Remove the pad, uninstall switch connectors and use a jumper to test the horn. Sometimes the wire connected to switch copper contacts break, which is easily repaired by resoldering it.

Hey Mike, really hot down here in Charlotte too, been taking it slow in my garage, but good work to keep moving on the car during this weather.

Nice progress Mike.

Today I spent some time in the garage until the heat got to me. I installed the fuel sender in the tank, the fuel line from the pump to the carb & finished painting the trunk black.

Hey Terry, Ya, I saw and read that post the other day but didn't learn anything. Yesterday I made a #2 wire from the rear big lug on the fender mounted solenoid to the small post on the starter. I also remove all of the wires from the solenoid and cleaned up the area behind it. while tightening the front big lug nut I heard a click from the starter. At that point I decided to change out the solenoid to another Motorcraft. In the 12-hours since, the car started just fine over ten times, including twice today. Hopefully it continues. I do thank all of you guys who have offered your time and knowledge here helping me. And a special thanks to Terry for encouraging me to start a thread on my problem. I was going to post this last night, but didn't want to jinx Roseanne. Thanks again guys.

Disclaimer: I'm no auto electrician. I'd rather stack BBs than trouble shoot electrical issue on a car. Several years ago I installed a late model (80's) style PMGR starter cuz I falsely thought I had a bad starter. When the motor got up to temperature the starter would barely turn over. I fingered it was the stock rebuilt starter getting heat soaked. Turned out to be a bad pristine looking battery cable from the fender solenoid to the starter. Starter problem fixed. Or at least I thought. This image is how my PMGR starter is wired, and what @Mach1 Driver asked to show. My battery is mounted in the trunk, with the 12 inch ground cable secured to a stud I welded to the chassis. The 12v positive battery runs up the right side interior to the stock location fender mounted solenoid. I have no fuses or diodes in the battery or starter wires. I've been plagued with starter gear teeth being destroyed, and sometimes the starter mounted solenoid goes bad. One time both went bad. Just for info, another (bad idea) non-stock part I swapped is a Tuff Stuff 1 wire alternator. If this isn't enough problems to discuss, I can add some more electrical issues in having. Too much harassment on my lack of skills will result in being flagged as a spammer :) Edit: I just remembered shortly after installing my first Performance Automotive PMGR starter, the starter gear stayed engaged to the starter ring gear. It made a hell of a racket that can't be missed. PA replaced the starter, and I've not had one do it again.

Not all 70's came with Cleveland motors, I believe that the "H" code cars utilized 351W 2bbl motors until on hand stock was depleted. The "M" codes were all 351C 4bbl's.

Ah , i see a probing coming soon !

I'm looking forward to TSA pat-downs due to metal in my neck, back, and 2 hips!

You replied on vmf indicating you would look too to see what you had. I posted this request on a couple of forums in order to get the most exposure. I appreciate you taking the time. I must have been half asleep as I posted this in the cars not parts wanted section… I am interested in the 3 clips in the first image. Let me know how much you want for them and how you would like funds sent. Thanks again, Mike

Hey Ed, my lower mounting screw is right at the bottom edge of area that your door trim panel is located. No reason it couldn't be mounted a quarter inch higher and be behind the trim panel.

pic host

https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=9b182bd4b539ae0aJmltdHM9MTcyNDI4NDgwMCZpZ3VpZD0yNWQyNjk4ZC0zMDk0LTYwZTctMDA1NS03ZGQ4MzExMDYxNzQmaW5zaWQ9NTIxMA&ptn=3&ver=2&hsh=3&fclid=25d2698d-3094-60e7-0055-7dd831106174&psq=chockostang+disc+brakes&u=a1aHR0cDovL3d3dy5jaG9ja29zdGFuZ2NsYXNzaWNtdXN0YW5nLmNvbS8&ntb= I suggest you ask this guy chockostang. Has a great reputation. Brian

Not sure if anybody makes a direct fit for an AOD in a 69 but you could get lines for a 87 to 93 or so mustang v8 that should get you to the front but would need manipulated to get to cooler. Its been a while since I did this conversion tho so someone might make them now I don't know. If you use the copper nickle tubing it is easy to bend and flare if you decide to make your own.

Nice work! Yeah, that head scoop is not right, the front edge corners should not be rounded up they should be flat. I would send it back to where you got it from and look for another one.

August update! Haven't done much because its miserable to work in the shop in the summer. Had a coolish day last weekend and did some work on the car!! Got the fenders/cowl/hood/headlight buckets fitted. I'm pretty happy with how they are fitting. Nice straight lines. Except the door gaps. I have decided that I am going to let the body man do the gaps. I honestly don't want to deal with it. If I get the gaps perfect, and then the body man decides that something needs to be adjusted or whatever, then those gaps will have to be redone anyway. Not thrilled with how the hoodscoop fits. I might try making one out of metal... And the video update!!! https://youtu.be/WKP0ds7rQns

I would check that one out ,i just sold my next to the last 69 for 15000,only difference was it was a roller,it was very clean though

I think you could be going down a rabbit hole that if it was me, I would want to avoid. You should be able to find a good roller for not too much above that price without all the rust and dings. Just my thought. Since you're young, maybe you want it to be a long term project, but I would want something in better shape unless you like doing a lot of body work. You might check out this post on VMF, he went down a similar path: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-convertible-build-351w-4sp-toploader-9-rear.1168598/#replies

I will keep that in my mind. Maybe look into starting the negotiations at $5000. I tried the same thing with this other guy that had another m code Mach 1 69.. No obvious dents with drivetrain. Can’t remember if it was numbers matching. Pretty much same shape been sitting out in the elements.. Pretty rusted out in need of a full restoration. His asking price was 18,000… I explained the condition of the car which was not the greatest at all. Every one seems to say their cars that they are selling has “solid bones”… so once I explained my reasoning and offered him 6k respectively. He apparently felt insulted and said I know nothing about Mach1’s and if I couldn’t pay up stick to coupes and proceeded to block me.

I would check the frame rails over well ,that is a major job if you have to replace those ,the rest of it isn't bad to replace if you can weld and measure . Measure everything before you ever remove anything . I built a 66 fast back from scratch ,using dynacorn parts of course ,but I had measurements from another fastback

It's either I look at it as keeping it alive or don't mess with it all. It just feels so worth it. Not for a return for value, but a return for the smiles, tears, and blood that I will put into this. I'm 31 so the car will stay with me forever and for now I have some type of energy to do the work myself.

Much more better'er. And it has remote openers!

My car is assembled. I tried to see if I could get a look down between the glass. That didn’t work. essentially I placed it as far down and towards the door jam as I could for clearance. Drilled two hole in the interior door shell. Used the device to determine where to drill holes. Very easy.

I used PVC pipe as stops. Cut length wise into 2 pieces, put them around the glass runs and zip tied together at the bottom of the glass runs after I adjusted the lengths such that the guides hit the PVC instead of the glass hitting the original stop.

He probably doesn't have an easy place to park the pictures so they can be shown here. Quite an annoying "feature" of our once favorite site isn't it?

I cut pieces of heater hoses maybe 2-3 inches long, split it lengthwise, slipped it over the round guides and zip ties them on. It took a couple of adjustments to get the correct length of hose.

I installed those. I screwed it directly to the inside door panel. No brackets needed.

I had an early 70 Mach 1 with glue in glass, and I didn't have to do that modification. I am not sure if Nu-Relics changed their design to make it work, or the glue in bracket was different in a 70 .vs. a 69. I installed mine about 6 months ago.

It's Hammer dyno time! The story so far. Engine in, all systems go but still having issues with the tune. I tried a few changes, emailed back and forwards to my man in the US but I realised I was wasting my time. So I made a booking with a tuner that had previously tuned a carb'd car years ago and he got results. Not cheap but - $1,350 AUD which would be about $1,000 USD. First up he checked the settings, then spent about an hour running the engine and playing with the ignition and fuel maps. Really not much to see, just sitting on the dyno running at light loads. Finally, the time came to do power runs. I had decided to put a 6,500 rev limit on as I wasn't sure how much revs the standard roller block could take. I'd been told 6,500, 7,000 and 7,500 but none of them were going to pay for a blowed up motor, so 6,500 it was. Another factor was the cam was rated to 6,600 for power. First run: 325 hp at the treads. He made a total of 8 runs, with all but one increasing power as he tweaked tables and numbers. The final run gave up 355 hp and about 330 ft/lb at the wheels. But more importantly, it had a fat flat torque curve and the fuelling was much cleaner. Driving it revealed it was back to how it was without the timing and fuel management and basically drove like a modern car - no snatch out of third gear corners and 1,200 rpm, hauled the mail when it needed to. And the idle has come down about 100rpm and it is much cleaner. Hopefully now I just drive it and don't worry about it not starting, idling, or going. Yesterday was 37° C or about 98 F° and the engine temp stayed steady at 90-91°C (195) in traffic and came quickly back down to 84° C (184) whilst driving. Have to be happy about that. IMG_1910.MOV

Ha! Took me a minute. The remote is there cuz I had to use it when my neighbor took me to the store. Also in the pic is my two month old Bosch starter which broke the cast aluminum nose, and chipped a starter ring tooth in the process. Nice. You know what I'll be doing today.