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So I pulled the firewall harness off today. I'll post pictures on the other site. I had one pin that was low. I think it was for the brake warning light that I've never seen come on or not sure I have one. One of the pins for the LH Front turn signal was not in the connector at all, the pin did not go through the plug. Got it hooked back up also figured out I had some wiring wrong with the hood scoop harness. Everything works now.

I traded some fiberglass for a full set of front and rear fenders ,also two sets of running boards and a really straight 36 hood . I said it before ,if you are building one you are building two ,we'll, I am shooting for three, a 35 a 36 and a 37 !

I have been looking for a shaker assembly for my 2005 Gt for a couple of years now. Every one I find is either for the wrong year or missing mounting parts. Last night I spotted one on market place and contacted they guy ,he had just posted it ! Went and looked at it this morning and bought it. Complete assembly with mounting ,all the drain hoses and all the mounting brackets ,also had the full factory air cleaner assembly he threw in . He also had the hood with all the trim ring . I can't decide what car to put it on ,the red Gt I would have to paint the new hood and no guarantee it would match ,or the black Gt that I am getting ready to paint so I would have no problem with paint matching .got it all for 800 ,the shaker part is quite a bit mor than 800 but I can never find them in stock ,the hood already cut out is also a big plus !

Ooh yeah ,I got me two new pups ! The golden is Bonnie ,the pyranees pup is Sophie and at 5 months she is 45 pounds !!!

With 205s and a good alignment, manual steering is not very "heavy".

On coupe and vert, you can slide the door glass back and forward by loosening the nut on the regulator forward arm end, it should be the same on fastback as the regulators are the same.

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I did some work on my front fender aprons ,striped the paint and fixed all the cracks and missing pieces . ,the one with the hole in the middle I dollied and welded the piece back in place then ran them through the English wheel to remove the dents and creases . I need to blast them a little better ,fix a couple of dings the wheel couldn't get to and get them in primer ,but they are looking good now.

A couple of months ago someone posted old Ford parts for sale on craigs list ,he wanted 2,000 for all of it ,I talked him down to 1,200 . Piles of running boards ,doors fenders and three 35 36 cabs setting on the straightest non pitted frame I have ever seen ,the frame alone was worth that! I decided on using the 35 cab instead of the one I was going to use ,only a few dings and the doors are almost perfect !

You would have to see this tailgate ,it is soooo nice ,and heavy. When you consider the cost of repairing a old one $300 was a steal!

I bought a rivet kit to rivet the bed together but the rivets are to long. I took a couple of pieces of metal that made the thickness of the length I needed ,drilled some rivet sized holes ,inserted the rivets and ground the stems to the correct length ,did 80 rivets in no time at all . Rivets to long will fold over like a bent nail or not crush up tight.

Got my new cab mounting blocks,they are hickory . Had to shape the bottom to the frame just a bit ,you want a nice tight fit at the frame and they have to be flat at the top or they will cock the door opening and cause door alignment problems

The stake pockets are stamped ,they need just a touch of metal finishing but they are 16 gage so a lot to work with . upload images

@TexasEd dude, you hit a home run with your restoration. The Mustang Steve Bash will be up in Hurst TX this year, and just a short three hour drive for you. Hope to see you there.

I also have the Scott Drake ones manufactured by Seatbelt Solutions. I did a video of the install and it came out good. I like them. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DCeaaECx_vw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Just wanted to stop by and say hello! its been awhile! Sorry I haven't been posting much. I was out of work for a bit due to the major tech layoffs In CA but took some time off to enjoy the car and travel before I found work again! so far, Im done with my 69 coupe and just enjoying it! now Im bored...so I am now looking for another 69, but this time an FB or mach1 keep your eyes peeled if you hear anything f/s. wish i could post pictures of the coupe, but I think pics uploads are still disabled. seems the site slowed down with traffic a bit, Hope everyone is doing well!

ah great info: My Mustang by rwctagger My Mustang by rwctagger, on Flickr My Mustang by rwctagger, on Flickr

Here's a link on a how to post pics here. As @Ridge Runnersaid, it's like using the old PhotoBucket site.

Welcome back, Happy New Year to you too. Good to hear from you. You have to host the pictures on a different sit like Flickr, then copy & paste them here. That is what I do.

You have to be set on full BB code for pics

Well , I have to pick one up first ,being cheap ...me ,and harbor freight ,that is the one I will use . Don't have a clue but that never stopped me before !

Friday the temp outside was around 60° so I was out in the garage for a little while. I removed the hard brake line from the soft line going to the caliper & found what seemed to me like a little burr on the flare. I used some fine sandpaper on the burr until it felt smooth, installed the 3/16th" copper flare I bought, reinstalled the hard line & tightened the line up. pumped the brakes & so far it looks good. I will try it again today & report back.

When I was rebuilding the steering in my 69 Coupe I went to manual steering, I also replaced the stock idler arm with a roller idler arm from Opentracker Racing making a big difference in the steering. I can now steer it with one hand.

I drove a 428cj coupe several years ago with manual steering and manual brakes. It was not a big deal at all. Just get it rolling as you turn the wheel. Now I am sure parallel parking would not be the most fun but how often does anyone do that these days.

This pic?

Before taking anything apart check the bracket locations. Measuring from the leading vertical window edge to the first bracket 3/4". Measuring from the same place the center bracket is 19" back and repeating the process last bracket is 27 1/2". Easier to demonstrate with a picture. Brian

Thanks, that is probably a good idea. This is a 2v, and looking at some of the top end kits, I just figure an extra 150+ HP with just the top end being done wouldn't be a bad deal. I currently have some time off work, which is a rarity, so I'm trying to get as big of head start on this as I can.

Have 3 gallons I was saving for my last 35 and my 69 ,it will not go to waste!

Welcome to the forum. I recommend doing as little as possible to get it running while your dad is still around. I have had a 750, 680, and currently a 600 cfm Summit M2008 carb on my stroked 393 with AFR 185 heads. The 600 is plenty of carb, and it has never run better than right now. I have a small 268 hydraulic flat tappit cam, and still had to fly cut the pistons to clear the 2.10 valves. Mach1 Driver is correct about the 2v (H code) and 4v (M code) having different compression ratios, the M code 4v had 10.7:1 I believe, and 290hp, which ain't bad. Just remember when you change one thing on these cars, it affects three others, which you have to address. Good luck on getting her back to burning rubber.

My stainless strips made it in today ,I cut them for length and drilled the holes ...stainless is really fun to drill! I used just bolts through the holes for now but they will be stainless button heads. I also want stainless button head bolts for mounting the bed ,along with stainless washers ,this should look great with Gulf Stream Aqua ! upload images

I just bought these from Eddie Motorsports and they do not fit flat either. I checked the a washer and flat washer set up as mentioned I tried no washers and the only way I get them to sit flush is to remove the 3rd bolt from upper front hole and rotate them. Eddies says he will get back to me and he has someone bringing his Mustang over to try these on his to see if they fit. Well they don't fit my 69 so what does it matter. I had stock hinges on with no issues and at 700 bucks I’m pissed. I had 2 different body guys come over and they saw the same thing I did they do not work. something is machined wrong.

I have always said ,if you are building one ,you will wind up building two! I have enough parts to build 3 trucks with parts left over ,there was even a stake bed frame ,pic above , in very good shape with almost impossible to find stake bed rear fenders !

Come on out ,I am always here

Right now it is all bolted together ,it wall be taken apart primer and riveted back to gether .it was scarry drilling all those holes and there is a lot of them!

Rear fenders are impossible to find ,I made molds from my last truck many years ago so I made new fenders out of fiberglass

Pictures ,wonderful pictures!

Well ,let's try this Pic thingy ! I got it to work a couple of times so maybe? Been working on my 35 ,bought a new bed from Mack Products ,these friggen things are nice! I bought it in unassembled form ,saved a couple of thousand on it . I started with an original bed frame and went from there.

free pasta photos

Hi guys, about to get my 69 Mach1 upholstery re done with Distinctive maroon/dark red. There is no front hi-back seat rear panels in the full upholstery set when bought a long time ago. Options appear to be TMI colored plastic panel with imitation stitching or Distinctive's upholstered cardboard type panel. The Mach came with the upholstered panel in bad condition but I'm told it is off a Cougar and it should be a plain plastic painted one (such as TMI without any imitation stitching). Appreciate your comment.

Still crossing my fingers for pics soon . Wanting to make the inner front pillar moldings out of fiberglass and I have done quite a bit of work on my 35 ford pick up .

Lots to report this time round viewers, so grab a beer (not Bud Lite) and settle down. Mission tailpipe complete. 2.5" from the mufflers back. Whilst it has reduced the noise inside the car, there is still a drone at around 2,000 - 2,500 which is right at suburban drive speeds but it is improved. I can now hear the radio at a sensible level not thumping like before. The man also tweaked the LH pipe from the header to the X pipe as I had managed to sit that too high and it was hitting the frame. But the worst part part my expensive new FPA headers had a pinhole at the merge collector. Then we decided to move states. So, the car needs to go 800 miles away and not bust, overheat, or be bad. I had a few chores I knew that needed to be done, so these started getting ticked off; Replacing the front springs. Our go-to company down here is King Springs and I had a set of front springs in it from our local small caer, a Ford Cortina. Whilst the spring rate is the same as the V8 Mustang, they were an inch shorter. So sexy to look at with the tyre just touching the guard but it was too low. I kept scraping the pipes on roll overs, and one time it was so bad it tweaked the already-tweaked LH pipe even more. So, I bought a pair of springs and inch higher and chucked them in. Plenty of clearance but for me it sits too high. This is on the to-do list with a later chore at the rear. A by-proudct of this was the wjheel alignment was out - badly - so that was on the plans too. The brakes had never been great - I could never get the emergency brake (we call it a 'handbrake') to hold the car, and it also held still on hills, and I suspected I had goofed with the booster/master cylinder clearance. I bought one of them 20 buck H shaped tools off ebay and oulled the master. I needed to turn the adjustment screw about 8 times, so it was well out. Now, the handbrake holds it, it don't have an auto-hill-holder and the brakes aren't hot from a 10 minute drive. The tengine emperature on this had been gradually creeping up. It did run pretty well at 82° with the expected spikes at stops, but it started sitting at 86-87° and higher. I initially put it down to the crazy timing and hotter weather. The fix, I thought, was in buying some big-ass CFM fans, so I splashed out on some SPAL 12" puller fans rated at 1,480CFM, better than the ~1,100 CFM I had on there. I also thought to make up an actual shroud, as they were just fitted using some alloy angle to hold them top and bottom, then bolted to the rear sides of the core. Simple but effective. I bought a sheet of 4mm alloy and cut out 12" holes in it, mounted the fans to it and then bolted the whole thing back ont he radiator. Bit of black paint and it looked pro. Cost of $75 bucks all done. One quite warm day I set off for an hour drive in peak hour traffic to get a wheel alignment. On the way it got pretty hot - about 90° - and I had fans cutting out. Not great but I got it there. The wheel alignment resulted in a few things; 1. The $240 quote went to $440 without explanation. They did spend 4 hours on it, they have made it drive 1,000% better but sticker shock hit hard. 2. Borgeson conversions in Mustangs are crap. Earlier in the piece I discussed my issues with bump steer after the conversion and these guys confirmed it. The pitman arm sits too high when the box is installed, which I suspected as the drag link was not level. They had done a few Chev conversions, a Mopar facebook post rated them highly but for our cars the recipe ain't right. They did say they had seen elongated the bolt holes in the frame to fix them but not a great fix. So, I decided that I ought to rebuild the original steering box and ram, as I had a specialist in the next suburb and when we move the costs wil increase with freight. no surprise on this car, the steering box was NFG. What I think is the ball nut had broken and the guy told me I was lucky it didn't jam stuck. Eeek I drove the POS for 4 years like that. Luckily he mahaed to find another, so now I have a rebuilt box and ram to go back in at some stage. It was on the short drive to pick up the steering stuff that the temperature went bad. Near on boiled, the fans were constantly running and the circuit got so hot it tripped a 70 amp circuit breaker I had installed and near melted the 2 30 amp relays in the circuit. So, I removed the full-width shroud thinking possibly air flow was being restricted. No change. Another 70 hucks for relays and 50 amp auto circuit breakers, for just in case they were tripping too. Put back the 2 alloy angles holding the fans - I had to buy more material, 40 bucks thanks - but no change. Still hot, wouldn't cool down. This was strange as the SPAL fans pulled 250+ CFM more than the old ones and they did keep it somewhat under control. So, next was remove the cheesecloth filter sock that was in the top hose. It was slightly clogged but not blocked. No change. Last - the thermostat. Some of you may have already gone there in your mind but I was being methodical. And it was a new high flow unit installed with the new lump 12 months ago. Reefed it out, dropped it into a pot of boiling water. Nothing. Nix. Nada. No movement at the station there. Freakin POS cost me over 200 bucks in parts, time, stress and hassle. 15 bucks and a day later I had a new standard 82° thermostat installed. Took it for a spin just now, temp runs steady, fans pull it down from 84° to 82° in about 3 minutes. The Sniper stumble issue was getting to me so I took matters into my own hands and increased the cold fuel compensation up 50% to around 160° (F) and this has improved it an amount but it may need some more. I'm not comfortable playing with that kinda tuning stuff which is why I put up with it for so long. Last, I have massive axle tramp issues. So bad, the diff pinion is making a notch in the trans tunnel. Maier 4.5 leaf springs aren't available form shops here, so I've bought a pair of Scott Drake 4.5 leaf mid eyes on the recommendation of my favourite Mustang shop they will fix the problem. They'll go into the container to be shipped to the new joint and I'll put them in later. Depends on who you ask they either raise or lower the car. Duh, I hate the interwebs sometimes. I have lots of photos but I'm getting an error message so can't load them.

What brand of epoxy primer is everyone using? I have two new quarter in the boxes I want to prime for storage. I’m going to go with PPG paint when I paint the car. Should I use PPG epoxy primer?

Thanks for the help

I am of the "system approach" mindset when it comes to finishing and you will not go wrong with starting with PPG DFLF epoxy primer under everything. Knowing you will be using a PPG paint system to finish your car, it is genuinely best practice to stay with one brand if possible. That said, coating panels with DPLF for storage is an excellent idea no matter what and DFLF primers will protect the panels for years when stored in a cool, dry environment. You won't regret it.

My 3A interior car; black plastic w/imitation stitched border

Same as the frame 1/8

I got this thing up on the rotisserie all by my self ....all buy my self ,dont wana be ,all by my self .. sorry ,80s flash back ! Any way it is the same length as a mustang so i didnt have to move the ends ,a mustang drive shaft is also the perfect length . Now i can have some fun boxing the front and rear of the rails !

Not to bad ! I just have to make the inside horn now .

I unfortunately have the same issue. I haven't looked into it but I'm thinking it's the quarter glass that needs to be moved rearward to provide the correct fit. Someone's got to know for sure.

Jim, we need you to get a hold of Terry, @Mach1 Driver, and teach him how to post pics :)