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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/07/2022 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I decided to give my harbor freight sander a try on the front of the cab ,it took it down to clean metal fairly quick with out a lot of effort. Hit a spot on the door and found it still has the old army green under the brown primer . These cabs are 19 gauge ,well thicker than a mustangs 20 -21 gauge ,its kind of like working on a 55 gallon drum . Smooth dents can be bumped out and usually need no bondo . I will sand the flat panels but i will have to sand blast everything else . The cowl vent will be filled in and the original firewall will come out so i can make a new one deeper set for a small block Ford to fit .
  2. 3 points
    20 years ago i was the only one that made a patch panel for the back of the cab ,a friend machined the dies for my bead roller ,it cost me a whole $80 ,i wonder what it would cost to make these dies today?
  3. 3 points
    Found a pic of my fiberglass 37 pick up grill
  4. 2 points
    Well i was in RPMs neck of the woods today in beautiful down town Bakersfield ,had to buy a new toy ! Now i am in no way a Chrysler guy but what the hell ! 2014 Challenger RT fully loaded ,remote start ,after market exhaust ,Stereo system,black leather with swade inset seats ,sport mode ,paddle shifter ,super track pack and runs like a scalded ape! Had to kick it on the way back just once ,stomped it to the floor as it hit third and roasted the tires.
  5. 2 points
    After pretty much loosing my old 35 ford i have been thinking about it a lot lately ,i think i need to build another one ! I used to collect them ,i had several at one time but i am down to just 4 now haha. I even made my own patch panels like the rear bottom of the cab ,you couldnt buy this patch several years ago and it a pretty normal rust out area . Now there is quite a few patch panels for them ,you can even buy new running boards ,but i have a good set . My cab i will be using isnt bad but no where as straight as my old 35 was . I have a pretty decent pair of doors with just a small ding in each door that will be fixable without the use of bondo . I need the rockers ,they make them now ,and a couple of lower corner patches that i have from an old crushed cab . I have piles of head lights ,interior trim ,window regulators ,door latch assemblies you mame it i have it here some where. . I happen to have a pretty good 35 frame in my shop with a 37 pick up setting on it but my favorite is the 35 . I have a few hood panels hanging on the wall with a super nice 35 grill ,its the one on the left . I pulled the cab and a few parts out just to see what i need ,looks like i have to find a passenger side front fender but shouldnt be to hard to find . I bought a couple of 35 -37 rear fenders a few years back that need a bit of work but they are almost impossible to find because these things were used as a truck and the rear fenders were the first thing destroyed .
  6. 2 points
    I got the old fire wall out ,that thing was really in there ,it looks like i need to pick up a sheet of 19 gauge sheet metal to build the new one . I am going to sand blast before i put in the new fire wall so i can get at everything .
  7. 2 points
    your sensor of the fan activity should be located at the exit of the radiator/entrance to the engine (lower hose). basically, if the radiator (without fans) is able to adequately cool the fluid before it enters the engine, then there is no point in turning on the fans or have them turned up. locating that sensor in the intake manifold will basically have you running the fans more necessary. which of course won't hurt beyond consuming a little more energy/power at certain times.
  8. 2 points
    It was a sad when old Betty went away .
  9. 2 points
    I kinda got this get out of jail card that works so well I haven't had a speeding ticket since 1977.
  10. 2 points
    A/C glove box fits both cars, but you can’t fit as many speeding tickets in it.
  11. 2 points
    maxum96

    Trying to annoy the neighbors

    I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today. I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order. I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.
  12. 2 points
    Rich Ackermann

    69 mach1 Wheel and tire size

    Just adding my two cents to this thread... I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many, if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment. In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires. I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.
  13. 2 points
    RPM

    electrical problems

    To me, that clip looks like the one that holds the brake pedal shaft in place.
  14. 2 points
    det0326

    Mentorships and where to find them?

    While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.
  15. 1 point
    Nope: when you replace the circuit board, you have to loosen the nuts holding the various gauges. The posts can easily contact the metal housing when reinstalling and tightening the nuts, shorting out the CVR output and the gauges will not work. This is a chronic problem for 69/70 dash clusters. The cheapest solution is to remove the circuit card and place black electrical tape over the rectangular cutout sides so that the posts won't contact the metal housing. Re-install the cardboard insulation pad, the circuit card, and tighten the nuts. As a check, you can measure the resistance between each post and the housing metal. If you see 1 to 14 ohms, one of the gauges is shorting out, causing the others to short out too. The ammeter, if shorted, will cause a massive short and because the lines are not fused, can cause a fire. Bad design by Ford.
  16. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Just a little somthin for me!

    Last minute decision and had to get there fast ,got home even faster !
  17. 1 point
    Rich Ackermann

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Hi Vic, Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70. The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together. They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots. https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left).
  18. 1 point
    One end of it should have a slight curl to it ,that end goes up ,the flap goes under the fiberglass
  19. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    Haha ,1978 ,that was a great year haha! My first 35 i actually built in high school ,it had a stake bed that i built because i couldnt find a good truck bed ,i later found a good one and painted the whole thing emerald green
  20. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    A friend just called me and said his friend has all 4 fenders for a 35 ford pick up ,not sure what he wants for them but if it isnt a million you bet i am interested ! Rear fenders are nearly impossible to find as they were the first thing smashed on these old trucks . What do you want to bet this leads to another truck ? Thats is the way it starts ,thats the way it happens ,one leads to two ,two leads to three and i wants more !
  21. 1 point
    RPM

    New shock tower is not perfect

    Ya, spending some time now checking might save you some trouble later. I'd use a digital level at the rear torque box, Front rails at torque box, and the front of the front rails.
  22. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    New shock tower is not perfect

    Measure between the towers ,you shouldnt cut it untill you make sure it will be the right distance between them
  23. 1 point
    following in Andy Worhol's footsteps
  24. 1 point
    Took a Heinz tomato juice can myself. Popped two small holes in it. Used it for years until I got rid of the A/c units. Left the labels on it.
  25. 1 point
    Correct. Depending on the size of the pipes you're running, there are several tips listed on eBay right now.
  26. 1 point
    copb8

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    I would love to walk around your place and take in everything you have. I have no idea how you tell the tiny difference of parts from piles of what looks like the exact same thing.
  27. 1 point
    I bought a pair from an outfit in Michigan. The welds were pretty rough but can't be seen when installed. They were nowhere near $463. I will see if I can find the name, assuming they are still making them. [edit] I couldn't find my old post but I found another one. It's Great Lakes Customs in Mt. Clemons, MI. Looks like they are still around, maybe give them a call.
  28. 1 point
    RPM

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    That's Jenny's CC number. I've got her info saved.
  29. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    Yes ,that was a 37 grill in the Pete and Jake car ,at the time the 37 grill was popular to use on coupes . The grill i have is a pretty nice one ,several years ago i took it to a fiberglass shop to see if they could make a mold for them because they are so hard to find but the shop told me it would be to difficult to make so i decided to try it for my self and it came out great . I sold several of them over the years and i still have the mold . I used to have a few hanging on my wall in my shop but sold them all ,i may have to make a couple more just to hang on the wall again . The white grills on the wall are my fiberglass grills ,a pain in the butt to make because each rib has to be hand ground out .
  30. 1 point
    aslanefe

    Is a 1969 A-C Vacuum Canister Rebuildable?

    You should be able to solder that. Tin the area first; if the solder does not bridge the gap get a piece of 14–18 gauge solid copper wire, tin it, bend it to fit on the open area, lay it over the gap and solder around the wire. Make sure you do not get the side with inlet/outlet get hot. I think there is a rubber valve inside that inlet/outlet piece that can get damaged. Putting the can on a cup of water (with inlet/outlet submerged in water) or wrapping with wet cloth while soldering will work.
  31. 1 point
    The cab i am using is actually a 36 although the 35 parts will fit ,easiest way to tell a 35 is the notch at the bottom of the wind shield posts ,the 36 is rounded ,although i have had two original 35s with the rounded post to the cowl . The 35 doors have a removable window frame ,the 36 and 37 do not . The grill for the 35 is shorter than the 36 and i think mush better looking ,the 37 is totally different and rounded but not as ugly as a 39-39. The hood has a v in the louvers where the ford emblem goes ,the 36 side panel has long louvers all the way with the emblem in the front of the louvers . 37 hood sides are long but way different from the 36 and has a smaller V8 emblem mounted right on the center of the louvers . 37 hood will not fit a 35 36 ,it longer and shaped a bit different
  32. 1 point
    Well ,what do you know ! Its kind of hard to take a door from one cab and have it fit another cab ,you guys complaining about fitting mustang parts just dont know ! These things were fit to each cab as they were built ,the driver door just has to come up a bit and the passenger has to go back a bit at the bottom ,they are usually way off but these look great !
  33. 1 point
    aslanefe

    A/C Thermostat switch question

    If my memory serves me right, the switch also activates the vacuum actuator on the first photo. So when switch is pressed by the lever of blend door 1" (activated by the cable of hot-cold lever) the heater control valve closes and stops hot coolant going into the heater core. And at the same time the vacuum actuator closes the "blend door 2" and eliminates the air going "through" the heater core.
  34. 1 point
    Mike65

    What did you do to/for your Mustang today?

    @RPM For what I need it for it will be OK. If I have to get my 05 F150 in the garage we can move my wife's motorcycle in front of the Mustang & then there is plenty of room for it. I should have made it a 3 car garage but the cost of the concrete was expensive for the 2 car garage.
  35. 1 point
    I would measure the intake by the temp sensor. It is an area before the coolant goes to the radiator.
  36. 1 point
    RPM

    New Ride/Project

    Drove to Canyon Lake TX to pick up my first love from a buddy. My first vehicle was a 56 F100, which I foolishly sold circa 1980.
  37. 1 point
    Grabber70Mach

    Trying to annoy the neighbors

    Sounds like some great music to my ears. Better than the stuff I have to put up with at work that makes my ears bleed.
  38. 1 point
    Looks like you are missing the shock tower braces; might want to install an "export brace".
  39. 1 point
    I just commented on your post in the "what did you do" thread. Am I correct that 65D decodes to deluxe interior with bench seat? Don't think I've ever seen that. You'll have to post some pictures.
  40. 1 point
    This would depend on thermostat/environment, my 408w has a 180 thermostat, still testing the fans and trying to find that sweet spot. Also, this weekend was very hot so I wanted to adjust the fans to come on sooner just to see how it worked. however, even with the 140amp 1 wire alternator, these fans are putting load at idle its jumps from 14.5v and drops to 13.8v - 12.5-7v with both fans on. however, when driving it shoots back up at 14.5v so instead of having both fans going on I re-adjusted the temps again for the second fan to come on a little later. any suggestions if that type of change in voltage normal? still trying to learn this electrical fan thing as its something new to me. new settings: low fan at 180 and 188 for the high fan. its now between 13.5v - 14v at idle. also, human error on my part, as I was adjusting the temp via iOS and I noticed the app was throwing off a different temp number compared to the gauges. after reading the manual (go figure) and ran diagnostics, I forgot to configure the temp sender. its now using the BIM I/O cable and now reading accurately with the app and gauges.
  41. 1 point
    New Wilwood rear discs, and changed the rear gears from 3.0 to 3.55 posi. Now I just gotta bleed the dang things... god I hate brake fluid...
  42. 1 point
    Kris

    Holley sniper issues

    I pulled all the plugs already and cleaned them yesterday. There were all black with carbon buildup. I’m pretty sure I’m going to install a relay so the voltage will have less chance of fluctuating. When I metered the green/red wire with a fully charged battery, it still has fluctuation when cranking. It was still within the Holley suggested range but it’s more of a drop than straight off the battery so a relay should help with that.
  43. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Ideas for adding tach to non-tach car?

    I run the stock tach and I will suggest you get one big enough to see. My stock set up is so far inset in the dash cluster it takes a while to focus. I don't like taking my eyes off the road for that long. Numbers are not big enough and the lighting is poor. I have mine taped/marked with the important numbers. A large one on the column with shift points/lights would be the ticket. Brian
  44. 1 point
    maxum96

    Auto meter temp gauge sensor.

    I know I'm a little late to the conversation, but I too used a 5.0 thermostat housing on my 393W. It worked out perfect with my oversized radiator.
  45. 1 point
    maxum96

    Ideas for adding tach to non-tach car?

    I have all Autometer gauges in an aftermarket instrument panel. I had to wire them in to the stock harness. That was not a big deal as the only things I need were 12V power, instrument light, and fuel gauge sending wire. I run a mechanical water temp and oil pressure gauges along with an electronic speedometer. My tach is wired into my MSD box velcro'd to the passenger side cowl above the vent.
  46. 1 point
    jmlay

    dash clock

    I hate it when the garden hose gets a kink in it…
  47. 1 point
    aslanefe

    Mentorships and where to find them?

    If you are just going to cruise on sunny days, skip the EFI and stay with carb unless you are a good EFI tuner.
  48. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Scammer alert

  49. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Scammer alert

    I said all along it would be something so stupid you wouldn't even think of it ! When i put the 07 motor into my 05 mustang the 07 harness was still on it ,it wouldnt work in the 05 so i had to change it inside the car ,that wasnt easy because it was almost impossible to get to the tranny sensors . I must have twisted the rear part of the harness,the part with the plug ins for the 02 sensors . I had the bank 1 sensor plugged into the bank 2 02 sensor and the bank 2 sensor plugged into the bank 1 sensor ...does not work that way ! Swapped the plug ins today and its like a new car ,should be ,i replaced every sensor ,spark plugs ,coils and even resealed the intake and throttle body . Now i can finally finish it up and drive !
  50. 0 points
    RPM

    Correct tailpipe tips for Mach 4V

    Dude, you're about 6 months too late. I had a pair that I'd have let you have for my cost, $100. Crap!


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