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A couple of more from Vic.

The way I did it on my 69 Coupe if you look at the underside of the hood there is a recess for the hood pins about the size of the round trim plate that screws to the top of the hood. I drilled in the center of that recess from the underside, closed the hood then marked the center of the hole in the hood on the radiator support & then drilled the holes in the radiator support for the pins & then install them. Here is a video that could help. Installing New Hood Pins | Mustang Mach 1 (youtube.com)

For those of you flummoxed trying to post images, upload your pic to https://imgbb.com/ and copy the BBCode full link. Then paste the link here in the text area. And this will appear.

Bob always finds a way. Thats why he is a moderator

I used some sticky foam about 3/16" thick in that area, but placed it on the metal, not the sail panels. I did the LizardSkin on the interior so probably wasn't needed but it was an easy install. I thought I had a photo, but apparently I don't. Here is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNBV7WK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Slight diversion from the 69, Added front spoiler and rear spoiler wicker bill to DD.

I used a 1992 mustang AOD in a 1969 and the dipstick that came with it worked fine. I made my lines from the nickel copper tubing that is easy to bend. Wasn't to hard at all.

Your car looks great Vic. Thanks for posting them Bob.

I like seeing pictures again. wow - Pictures!!!!

You can upload photos here https://imgbb.com/ copy the BBcode fill link, and post the link.

Vic's photos that he couldn't upload.

Agreed, the site is next to useless without the ability to post pictures, and like the rest of you I'm not usually willing to park a picture elsewhere (or find some other source) so it can be shared here.

Shouldnt need the clip ,it locks under the window gasket ,the wind lace also goes over it and a screw from the small plastic trim piece at the quarter window goes through the sail panel into the body . You still may need the piece of foam the cardboard sail panel had on the bottom back to keep the fiberglass sail panel tight to the hockey sticks . The cardboard sail panels had a jute pad behind them ,that alone may sound deaden them plus keep the pushed against the hockey sticks

Some of us old farts like taking naps...

Opened my oil pump up. Wanted to see if it was still good. Looks like something got between the housing and the gears gouging them. You can barely feel it but I'll replace the pump while I have the engine apart.

Not being able to post pics kind of sticks a fork in . I have been busy so not much time to spare . Got most of the project from others out of the shop so i may be able to work on something of mine soon . I would like to get the 4.6 3 v dropped in my 56 fairlane and start tearing into it. Although i do need to get the 69 blasted and in epoxy primer.

Website getting locked due to exceeding bandwidth might have deterred some folks.

Yes, turn the key to "accessory" or "on" and briefly touch the wire to chassis- I don't recommend pegging it, just see if it moves. If it does, then that side of the circuit is probably good, and then the sender is at fault. Since we can't post pictures anymore, I can't give you the quick and dirty version of how it works. However if you go to my Google Drive folder (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing) you can download "69-70 instrument gauge cluster6" which will probably give you too much information. Feel free to download anything on the drive.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/339532995871750/

Thank you, born and raised in bakersfield myself!

The video isn't quite correct. I'm the original owner of a 69 Mach1 that by coincidence is the same color as in the video. I was 19 when I bought it new. The reason there were no screws in the kit for the lanyards to attach to the core support is because the loop in the lanyard was simply pushed down over the pin, not screwed to the core support. Also, the lanyards were not routed through the grill, they just lay on top of it. The only difference I see in the kit and the original parts is that the swaging sleeves used to make the loops in the lanyards are much larger than on the originals. Its too bad you can't buy just the lanyards from Ford anymore but this appears to be the closest reproduction available now. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced those over the years because the protective plastic covering on the lanyards cracks and falls off as it ages.

I misspoke. What I should have said is the part Ed needs is the chassis piece that the part you show bolts to.

I am pretty sure that is what I posted above -> looks similar to these: https://www.npdlink.com/product/brackets-motor-mount/105035

See if you can see this photo. I used a users suggestion on getting it to a URL: https://ibb.co/TmRwtTN

I went with these guys. Very responsive on the phone and the service. They turned it around within a week and it came back very professionally finished and packaged. I haven't installed it yet, but I'm confident that it will work as advertised. Thanks for all the great suggestions and advise.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/PortervilleFYI/permalink/3326283317677598/?ref=share&mibextid=NOb6eG

Car is back home and looking better than ever. I can’t attach photos so look me up on instagram @red69mustang

Car is back home from paint and it is gorgeous. Best way to see updates is on Instagram I installed everything on the back end today. https://www.instagram.com/p/C8zwh81xFhF/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Make sure to repost a couple of days before ,cause some of us/me ,cant remember from one day to the next!

I spent some time in the garage even with the heat, I installed a 18" 3 speed fan to keep the air moving. I have decided to go a different direction with my build. I installed a carb spacer & a Summit 600cfm carb, mechanical fuel pump, fuel line from the pump to the carb, crank pulley, pulley spacer, radiator, upper & lower radiator hoses. I was going to post some pics but the site will not let me.

With AC and a clutch pedal in my car I can't imagine there's room left for anything else.

Solved! The bolts that came with the kit are too long, and hit the back of the disc.

Have you given any thought to using 3M Moulding tape in place of the studs. Auto makers use the tape for all the fender emblems on newer vehicles. Amazon.com: 3M Double Sided Mounting Tape VHB 0.5" x 15.4 Ft 0.025in Thick Black 5925 Heavy Duty Foam Tape Strong Adhesive for Car Décor Home Office Logos : Industrial & Scientific

Tried to send you a "message", but site would not let me. $30.00 shipped ... email me at stangs.r.me@gmail.com if still interested. Thanks, Doug

This is the one I drive around, I restored this about 15 years ago

The outer wheelhouse is set 2" outboard. I left a flange of the original quarter to attach the new one to, also bent that flange out at the top to meet the new one better. I pie cut and bent the new quarter in to have a little bulge to it instead of it flattening out. You'll notice the fore & aft upper corners were drawn in as a result. I'll continue working it and if it don't turn out right I'll have to cut it off and start over. When its right I'll do the left.

I have been working on the wiring in the trunk the last few weeks. I am doing a little at a time, like baby steps to get it done. Thanks to everyone who posted pics or responded to my post looking for info how to run the taillight harness so I can keep plugging along with the wiring. Today I ran the ground wires for the taillights & side lights to the ground screw on the trunk support.

Hear is a picture when I got the 70tie. Thanks for the welcome.