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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/24/2021 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Vicfreg

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Catching up on some mini projects while I’m home for the holidays. I have my LED tail light assembly‘s together, and did some quick checks of my tail light wiring harness, and connections, to make sure everything was working OK. everything seems to be working well, I just need to get an LED flasher, to check out my sequential tail lights. You will probably notice my powder coated tail light housings, that’s keeping with my all black trim theme. Should be pretty cool.
  2. 4 points
    Vicfreg

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Update on the 'Vert project. Had the painters come by and take a look at the car, so it looks like I am finally going to get the car painted. So, I am working off a list of some mini projects that I can do now that will save me from doing later. Got out my dash panel and mounted my Dakota Digital/VHX stuff. Fit nicely. Plugged in the ethernet wire and started the car, and the dash went live. Yay! I don't have the dash insert installed. It is going to be painted, not woodgrain.
  3. 3 points
    69Mach1 M code

    Hurst shift lever

    Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future. I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed.
  4. 2 points
    ronandmelady

    70 coupe electrical issues

    Update on 70 Coupe Project: OK...so I've owned the car for a year now and you already read about the electrical issues early on. Over spring and summer, I resolved a terrible overheating problem that in the end I attributed to just a plain old radiator and a collapsing lower radiator hose and got it purring like a kitten with a terrible breaking up / weak spark issue. I tried to resolve the dreaded leaking FMX transmission, but think it's still leaking from pan. And finally, last weekend I replaced the 52 yr old 85 lb spring rate rear leaf springs with Detroit Eaton 70 Competition Suspension 138 lb spring rate springs and dual exhaust shackles and got on my old school Keystone Klassic wheels with BFG Radial T/As. Love the rear stance and the ride is great. Think I'm going to cut 1/4 to 1/2 coil out of new front springs to bring it down 1/2 to 1 inch. Very happy with progress and soon moving on to stripping off the original ugly green paint. Going with a bright pearl white or white metallic. And also new carpet, front seat covers, and dash pad. Having a great time working on an old mustang again. Cheers to you all until next update.
  5. 2 points
    jmlay

    Talk me out of painting my car

    Assuming you have the cash on hand & found someone reputable. I would take headliner & windshield out & have it painted. Install a new headliner & glass, then reassemble. Everything else may be done as time & $ permit. maybe you will not have shinny bumpers to match the shiny new paint but in time you will.
  6. 2 points
    Vicfreg

    Trunk Carpet Kit / Results?

    The floor is screwed down to oak cross members. The amp cover is sourced from a Marine supplier, it is a hatch used on boats.
  7. 2 points
    Vicfreg

    Panhard Rod - Seaking advice

    I have one on both of my cars. The original Boss 302 suspension book has the details on how to make one. I used Chris Alston Chassisworks stuff, and I like it. It is adjustable. The panhard bar keeps the axle centered under cornering, similar to a Watts Link. I think it feels more stable. Some pics of mine attached. Some literature attached.
  8. 2 points
    Twin 69

    Twin-Turbo Coyote '69 Hardtop

    I've been meaning to make a build thread for months now, if only to keep a record for myself. Hopefully it will be useful for other people as well. I've had the project for 15 months now, and finally know exactly where it is going to end up. I had been shopping for a 67-70 Mustang for a few months, and had moved too slow on a few excellent deals. I finally found a red '69 hardtop that seemed in good shape. It was originally a Grande, but the vinyl had been removed at some point. It had been repainted, the interior was redone, and it had a built 347 stroker. The price was a little high, and the motor was mated to a 3-speed and an 8 inch. The frames and panels all looked solid, except for evidence of a crash on the passenger front quarter. I ended up buying it. The original plan was to slowly upgrade things as I went along, starting with the trans and a 9-inch. The car was running and driving, but it was 2 hours back home. Interior was pretty nice, with some small details being a bit wrong, such as the door panels. Had the car for all of 2 weeks, before I blew the 8-inch to pieces. To be fair, both the 3-speed and the 8-inch were ticking time-bombs with that stroker in front of them. Got it back to my garage, and started deciding what to do with it. I had a pretty solid body of a Mustang that wasn't particularly special. I also had a decent motor, but nothing worth getting excited about in 2021. I decided that I was going to go pretty far as a restomod, though at that time I was still planning ion using the stroker. The motor was far prettier on the inside vs. the outside, but still was only an old stock roller block. Started pulling it all apart in January 2021. It is still up on jacks in my garage as of today. I won't bore y'all with all the details of the teardown, just the interesting bits. Overall it went smoothly. Some parts were a little crooked due to subpar repair on the previous wreck. There was also some rust that had been poorly repaired when they painted the car. Both doors and both front quarterpanels had bad Bondo jobs that had been painted over. The front floorpans also had significant rust, though it couldn't be seen from the bottom. Someone had fiber glassed over the floorpans, encasing the rust, before they had done the interior. There were a few other small p[arts, like around the gas tank mounting and where they welded support tabs for the previous exhaust. Drip rails aren't terrible, and the only other body rust is a 1/4" hole in the rear passenger quarterpanel. Passenger door cancer. Drivers is only slightly better. Luckily entire doors are cheap to replace. Floorpan after the fiberglass was taken up. you can see the chunks of it in the picture. Both sides are similar. Whoever put this in must have simply gone right over the rust without repairing. The rest of the teardown was uneventful. during this time, I decied on what i wanted to do to try and make this thing go anywhere other than a straight line. I went with TCI's torque arm 3-link and IFS. This setup fully braces the subframe, allows for a no-bind setup to mount a 9-inch rear end, deletes the front shock towers, provides new motor mounts, replaces the front steering and suspension with a double a-arm coil spring setup and custom spindles, and allows the car to be lowered. This particular kit also came with 13' 4-pot Wilwoods all the way around, and double-adjustable Ridetech shocks. Before the new front suspension setup, with the shock towers deleted. View just before final welding. Fully installed with rotors from outside the fender well. The rear suspension install is ongoing. I'm currently debating the overall width of the 9-inch, and whether or not to add small rear fender flares to give it a subtle widebody and allow for wider rear tires. The rear end will need to be beefy, because I sold the original 347 stroker and acquired a Gen 1 coyote and a pair of Precision 6266s. Current plans are to put 1,000 hp to the rear wheels. The turbos can get that high, but the stock Coyote internals will need some help. This power will go through a new close-ratio TKX, hardened by American powertrains Extreme package. They claim that it'll hold 950 lb-ft of torque. Clutch is TBD, but I will be running a 31 or 35 spline Trutrac or Wavetrac posi 9-inch rear and hardened axles. Standalone engine management will come from a Holley Terminator X Max to retain Ti-VCT capability. This car will be a daily driver, with the occasional track and drag outing. This means I'm adding A/C, sound deadening, etc., but I'm also installing a roll cage, SFI fuel cell, and other safety equipment. Currently, I expect to have it primed and running by Summer 2022. I will update this thread as I get significant portions done. If anyone has questions or wants further pics, please let me know. The coyote fit perfectly onto the crossmember provided by TCI.
  9. 2 points
    RPM

    Trunk Carpet Kit / Results?

    Because it's a lot of work, and I'm lazy. True story.
  10. 2 points
    Rich Ackermann

    Driveshaft question

    For health reasons, I avoid using any type of Exploding driveshafts. :-)
  11. 2 points
    I have been driving the car on the road since October 1st and its been running fine for most part. After a month I experienced some slippage (squealing) on the alternator belt when I would rev the engine quickly, so I tightened the belt a bit more an she has been quiet since. Hopefully it will stay that way. The P/S pump belt width and V angle fit the Saginaw pulley perfectly, but sit a bit deeper than stock in the grooves on the crank and water pump pulleys, but so far no issues. I do feel the hydraulics straining a bit when turning the wheels from stop to stop at a stand still, but that is partly due to the wide front Nitto tires putting more resistance than stock tires. I should mention, That the P/S pressure hoses do not mind bending, but they do not like and flat out refuse to be twisted. To my surprise, I had quite a bit of difficulty finding the right high pressure fittings needed to clock the P/S hoses so I could connect them to the back of the Saginaw pump. I think adding the 71-73 over the A/C compressor P/S fluid cooler will help keep the system cooler when driven hard on those hot summer days. Overall, I am pleased with the results so far. With the two adjustable Saginaw pump brackets on the front and back and the long 7/8" dia bolt running thru the three brackets and in to the stock accessory hole in the head, they setup is solid and does not flex when tightening up on the v-belt. Very important to square off your pulleys and get them on the same plain as the crank and water pump grooves to minimize resistance and prevent fraying the belt edges. What I have not hooked up and tested yet is the A/C belt, but I don't anticipate any issue there. The belt grooves on the Sanden and the crank pulleys match, and the crank pulley is designed to drive the old York Compressor, but that test will not happen until sometime in the spring. Here are a few more pictures... days.
  12. 2 points
    Machspeed

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    Welcome to the forum! I will tell you from first hand experience, you cannot go wrong with Open Tracker Racing. Their products and service are incredible. They have been very good to me.
  13. 2 points
    Marijus

    1969 H code with shaker hood

    RPM, I have Marti Report Deluxe, it says nothing about shaker but it has very scarce technical information. Do I need wider, Elite report? Here is my car.
  14. 2 points
    Thanks for the advice guys. I searched eBay, craigslist and facebook across the country and finally found a Mach 1 set for sale 2000 miles away. Was about to pull the trigger and deal with the inconvenience and pay the shipping when I decided to do a WTB locally. I found these Grande seats just a few miles away. It is the first dollar I have spend on parts for the car. I expect to spend many more dollars in the future (sigh).
  15. 1 point
    Grabber70Mach

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Nice job it looks great.
  16. 1 point
    I would check with Dan at Chockostang. http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/
  17. 1 point
    69Mach1 M code

    Driveshaft question

    I've referred to Explorer's as Exploder's since the Firestone fiasco. Rather fitting.
  18. 1 point
    1969vert

    Talk me out of painting my car

    If you have the skills you can paint it yourself several times over for 10k in materials
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    bigmal

    Panhard Rod - Seaking advice

    I have a 3/4 rear bar and not really happy with the way it's set up. Instead of loops at the end of the bar that the bolt and rubbers go in to, it has a strait bar that a rubber bush clamps around. You slide the bush further it to make it stiffer. I was reversing around a very uneven driveway and heard a bang. The rubber had come off the end of the bar. A very poor set up. I will take your advice and try with the bar off. I may consider a thinner bar with the loop ends as well. Thanks Bob
  21. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Panhard Rod - Seaking advice

    That picture really shows it all. The drivers side exhaust needs to run in between the top, fixed bar (the black one) and the lower, movable bar (aluminum one). I didn't want to install a 4 link or Watts Link as you need to modify the trunk floor, and with a convertible, that trunk area interface is rare sheet metal and did not want to fuss with it.
  22. 1 point
    I have a 8.8 in my '68 coupe. Mine is from a Ford Explorer. The center pumpkin on those is offset, but it works fine. On the 8.8, you need to buy new spring perches for that diameter axle. Cut the old ones off, and also all the other brackets/attachments, as they get in the way. Take your old rear and the new rear lay them side by side. Measure the distance between the centerline of the perches on your old rear. Find the center of the 8.8 and mark it. Take 1/2 the perch to perch distance from the old rear and mark the centerline of the new perches on the 8.8. Go to your car, and double check the distance between your leaf springs. Check the distance from your backing plates to the center of the perches on the 8.8 to see if they are roughly even. Before you weld the new perches on, rotate the 8.8 to match the pinion angle of the old rear. I measured the angle as close as I could with one of those protractor/angle tools. Another thing you need to decide is what brakes you want to run on the new 8.8 rear. Now is the time to address that. Also, check the axle seals to make sure they are not leaking, and change the rear end fluid. Most of the 8.8 traction locks use a friction additive. Last thing is that you will need to modify your driveshaft length, and also the attachment at the rear end. The 8.8s use a different style, flat plate mount with those annoying metric multi point bolts. I am very happy with my 8.8 set up. Cost me less than $500 to get a 3.73 posi installed in my car.
  23. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Trunk Carpet Kit / Results?

    I have one in my '68, not too bad. Mustangs to Fear has one for '68, I understand it can be modified for the later cars. I also did it the hard way.....
  24. 1 point
    Midlife

    Saved Mach 1 parts from recycler.

    Holy Sheiss! That's quite a nice collection of 69/70 parts! The tach dash cluster typically goes for $1000+ on eBay.
  25. 1 point
    TexasEd

    69 quarter scoop chrome attachment

    What part are you describing when you say quarter scoop? I'm picturing the 69 sportsroof rear quarter fake scoop. I have one of mine out now to tighten the black inserts because they are loose and rattle a little but there is no chrome around these parts. Edit - thinking now that this is the coupe trim?
  26. 1 point
    RPM

    1970 Door Ajar Warning

    Midlife has a Mustang wiring question? Is it April 1st?
  27. 1 point
    EastYorkStang

    Boss 302 Chassis/Engine PDF

    Thanks for posting these. Saw them online but never read until now.
  28. 1 point
    But it hurts so good.
  29. 1 point
    I used a Whataburger straw on the lower
  30. 1 point
    Full power only in my house. 2 percent has too much sugar added. Although I'll eat a half gallon of ice cream in one sitting.
  31. 1 point
    3/16 inch gap is aok. I've read that anywhere from 1/16 to 3/16 is good. Do you need ARP, no. Plenty on miles on Henry bolts over the years. But you won't beat the quality and piece of mind with ARP. At minimum get the 6 flex plate bolts.
  32. 1 point
    RPM

    Custom driveshaft or use a oem

    Eddie, my Exploder drive shaft is 3.5", so... I'm doing fine. Put new pistons, rings, and bearings in the 393. Awaiting heads to get surfaced from AMS in Fresno. Have the complete dash removed for air conditioning and new lower dash. Pray for me. :)
  33. 1 point
    I would go with a 3.5" Dia for sure.
  34. 1 point
    Rich Ackermann

    Custom driveshaft or use a oem

    I have a 408 Cleveland with a Tremec TKO 500 5 spd that I bought from MDL. I have an Eaton True Track anti-slip with 3.70 gears and Yukon (N case like) casing. The Tremec and the Yukon have 1350s. When pushing 500+- HP, MDL recommended the following (custom built) driveshaft... It was not cheap, but then again neither is the cost of repair should one blow up as a result of under sizing it. Aluminum Driveshaft 3.5" tube, 31 spline forged yoke, 1350 U-joints (under 700hp up to 58") High speed balanced * Drive shaft is measured and built once the transmission has been installed.
  35. 1 point
    jmlay

    Custom driveshaft or use a oem

    Have you seen what a broken u-joint &/or a twisted off driveshaft cam do to the drive train and body of a car? You have spent on the performance upgrades for engine, trans and rear, not to mention all of the body work. My recommend would be to spend on the 1350 yoke and custom driveshaft to match the rest of the drivetrain.
  36. 1 point
    Mike65

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    Josh, welcome, I am also building a 69 Coupe. I purchased all the front suspension parts from Opentracker Racing. I did the Shelby/Arning front UCA drop, & the Boss 302 chassis mods. I have the roller bearing spring perches, adjustable strut rods, 1" lowering front coil springs & rear leaf springs. I added front power disc brakes & replaced the upper & lower control arms with their blueprinted control arms. I have a mild built 1987 5.0 engine w/aluminum heads & cam from a new Boss 302 crete motor & a 1987 T-5 5spd trans with a 9" Ford rear w/3.50 gears w/trac loc. I am in the process of re-wiring the car with a AAW wiring kit. Other parts have been purchased from NPD, CJ Pony Parts, & Virginia Mustang. As far as chrome trim try to get original Ford trim as it will fit better then the repo stuff. My wife & I just a few months ago moved from southern NJ to southern Virginia so the car is temp on hold. Here is a pic of it as it is today.
  37. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    You can't go wrong with National Part Depot, and Virginia Mustang gets a lot of kudos. CJ often gets negative comments. Summit and Jegs can be ok.
  38. 1 point
    RPM

    New guy with a lot of questions!

    Welcome Josh. Mach1 Driver gave you spot on info that you can't go wrong with. As far as motors go, I wouldn't go any higher compression than 9.5ish with iron heads or 10.2 with aluminum. Pics! We love to see pics.
  39. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Tail Light Panel Observation

    If you shift it over to match sides it will throw off the tail lights ,i would make sure the lights are same side to side and not worry about that
  40. 1 point
    stangs-R-me

    Rear Qtr Drain Plugs

    I've had my car since 1981 and the drop-off metal is all original and complete, but these valves appear to have never been installed on my Metuchen built car. Until today seeing Briain's original valve in place, I had no idea how or where these things mounted !! Looking at the NPD catalog, they show 3 options for '69: 67-70 "Good Repo" 68-70 Dearborn built "Exact & CC" 68-69 San Jose built "Exact & CC" Is it possible that these were not installed on Metuchen built cars ?? Figured pics would be good to show OE metal without the valves in place. Doug
  41. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Rear Qtr Drain Plugs

    On my car. Brian
  42. 1 point
    I saw this today- its definitely not DOT approved, but with some messing around it may be acceptable (you don't want to blind oncoming drivers). You could have four headlights for the price of one Holley. From Capt Kent on VMF I have a 67 GT500. It uses four 5 3/4 lamps as well. I used these. I had to make a few adjustments with the stand offs on the back. It's not difficult. I threw the H4 bulbs supplied in the trash and ordered the LEDS below. https://www.ebay.com/itm/253210377279?hash=item3af483bc3f:g:jNMAAOSwsi9eWsaw https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  43. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    69 parking brake schematic

    You will need this bracket ?
  44. 1 point
    paulb

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Rear seat / side panels and door trims back from trimmers, came up well, almost ready for the road
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    exhaust fitment-x pipe

    PIcs from my '70 Vert. Not sure if it will help or not....
  47. 1 point
    Rich, congrats. Really, the best part about finally finishing a high quality restoration like yours is to share the details about the build with the other car owners at the show. It makes all the hard work worth it. Nicely done.
  48. 1 point
    copb8

    My new 1970 M-Code Mach 1 Project

    wow Wow WOW!!! You're car is spectacular. I can't imagine how excited and proud you must be. Congratulations.
  49. 1 point
    paulb

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Air box finished, came out pretty good
  50. 0 points
    Ridge Runner

    Talk me out of painting my car

    I just bought a gallon of torch red for a 2005 Gt i just bought ,for the paint and adatives and one gallon of primer it was $1100. ,i still have to by clear and buffing supplies . I used to be able to paint a car for 300 ...what the hell happened?


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