Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/29/2021 in Posts

  1. 4 points

    1969 -70 hood ,with 1971 -73 top

    Fitting on Jims hood, Looks amazing!
  2. 4 points
    Dr Chickenhawk


    So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better
  3. 4 points

    U joint cap clips, help needed

    Success!! Heated the c clip with a little heat and pried end out, grabbed with needle nose pliers and bam!!
  4. 3 points

    D*@3n!* turn signal switch!

    It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing.
  5. 3 points

    Best aftermarket rear suspension ?

    My first stage was front lowered EIBACH springs, shocks & fatter sway bars rear EIBACH shocks & fat sway bar. I also added AMERICAN RACING “Halibrands” wrapped in fat modern MICHELINS. She has front BAER brakes too. I have race cars so I just want a comfortable cruiser. inside I added Bluetooth, new speakers, NARDI steering wheel, and CORBEAU seats w custom upholstery and JEGS 4 point harness bcus the original upper harness is ridiculous to wear
  6. 3 points

    Custom Console

    On my 70, I ended up adding cup holders to my stock console using some magnets and cup holders that were purchased on Amazon. I have the TMI console for my 66, and it is good, but not great.
  7. 3 points
    Jesse 69 Fastback

    1969 Flashback

    While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale. The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape. The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K. But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year. I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark. Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang. I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA. I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could. Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned. So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son. I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere. I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time. That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price. Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted. So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person. I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine. As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again. I bought it on the spot. So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements. I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital. Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs). I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process. At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited! Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation. I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1. I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST. My original Mustang from high school: My new Mustang:
  8. 3 points

    69 coupe from SVK

    Painted! Finally, thats been long time to get here, but was worth every minute and cent :). Winner of my dilemma "titanium silver" vs "pepper grey" is obvious.
  9. 2 points
    I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it. The automatic mode is really all I use. Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it. I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash. I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same. These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty. I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine. Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks. I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects. The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace. One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.
  10. 2 points

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.
  11. 2 points

    Our new garage

    Congrats on the new shop. I wish I had that kind of space to expand into. Right now my oversized 3 car garage is a Tetris model, or more like a Rubix cube when moving things around. Your ceiling height is perfect. Being able to stand upright under the car is a real luxury.
  12. 2 points

    Power Steering conversion

    I've been thinking I need to update my 80's vintage stock replacement front suspension too (creaks a lot) and Open Tracker has been on my radar ... need to open the wallet wider to go down the rabbit hole further !! Doug
  13. 2 points
    Dr Chickenhawk


    Found new roller
  14. 2 points
    I used the AOD. If I was to go with an overdrive again I would go with the 4R70W cost more for the electronic shifter but a much better transmission.
  15. 2 points

    Quarter Post Windlace?

    Here's how mine turned out. Don't know if it's correct because I could never find a photo anywhere to work from. PIA there is nothing to work off of.
  16. 2 points
    Mach1 Driver

    3 pt seat belt experience

    I don't want to talk smack, but isn't this a picture of Randy as a child?
  17. 2 points

    Wanted: 1969 Big Block Convertible

    My car wouldn't be for you. It's original 302 has been enhanced by Edelbrock and I to about 320 HP. And T-5 trans. replaced the fact. 3 speed. Rubie red paint and drivability upgrades put it firmly in the "Mod" category. Good luck in the search. There are still a fair no. of unmolested 'original' cars rolling around out there. My car was base in Wimbeldon white, and as such was not highly sought after. I decided it was a good canvas to build the car I wished Ford had made. I would never have done this to a Boss, Bullitt, or Shelby. Then again I couldn't justify driving one of those to the golf course, Tasty Freeze, or local cruse-in. I enjoyed building it nearly as much as I enjoy driving it and the journey, is the destination.
  18. 2 points

    exhaust fitment-x pipe

    PIcs from my '70 Vert. Not sure if it will help or not....
  19. 2 points
    Rich Ackermann

    engine bay

    Hi Stan, Welcome to the forum! This may help you with identifying what's on your firewall. It's a picture of my 1970 Mach 1 351C M code with no A/C, no power brakes, no P/S, Manual trans. m. This might help you
  20. 2 points

    Not me!

    I didn't do it! I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!
  21. 2 points
    Because the measurements on these cars vary wildly from car to car, that's something you should wait to do until your suspension, hood and fenders are installed. Unless you get custom offset wheels, I'd think you'll be using wheel adapters. Plan on rolling your fenders lips. This is a 17x9 Halibrand with around 1-1/8" spacer, and 275/40 tire.
  22. 2 points

    NASCAR engine 69 Fastback

    I would also add: -insurance sufficient funds in the glove compartment for bribing the local constabulary when caught speeding
  23. 1 point

    electrical problems

    The two female plug has yellow/black (radio power) and blue/red (radio lamp power). The female plug in lower part of red circle is blue/red and is for lamp power for optional clock. The orange spliced wire is probably power for the turn signal flasher can.
  24. 1 point
    Marauder 1

    Brake warning switch trivia

    I know this post is old BUT dude you made my day. I was trying to figure this set of wires out and lo and behold you pop up with the drawings.. Thank You SOOOO Much M1
  25. 1 point

    Greetings from Tampa....

    I'm really happy with the car. I originally had AC as a top to-do item, but we've found that our early evening drives down here in Florida are just fine without it. I suppose that if were to drive it some distance and with the top up I might see it differently. Like all things: I'll get to it eventually.....Right now I'm just squaring away some of the systems. The 351w dates to 1969. Nothing fancy, and likely a stock pick from another car. I enjoy learning the Holley carb and stock distributor. No plans to change that.....If anything is "pressing", I'd say it's the steering. I'll go through the whole thing, pump to valve body and the box. It drives fine. She'll go to 80+ easily, doesn't wander, and brakes in a straight line. But I suspect the PS is not optimal and there's a bit of play in the steering wheel. I've been at Garage Journal for some years now. One fellow led the way on in-ground scissor lifts over there. Then the photobucket debacle cost everyone a lot of build details. In 2018 I recessed an Atlas FM9SL into my garage floor and detailed it in the thread linked below. The recessed scissor lift was a fit for me because of our suburban situation here: a three car garage, with one bay as my shop and the other bay reserved for the Mrs to park in. That left the middle bay. Stem wall construction and FEMA standards resulted in a 12 foot ceiling. I wanted a two-post lift, but the thought of the wife constantly banging her door on the post and the impact on my work space drove me to look for something that would disappear when not in use. That's how I came across the recessed scissor lifts - widely used in Asia and Europe in tight spaces.....It's very capable. 9000lbs capacity. Lifts to 6 foot clearance to work under. It lifts my F-150 no problem. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/atlas-fm9sl-scissor-lift-flush-mount-install.383717/
  26. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Dash/Head Light issue

    Yes it sounds like a short, perhaps somewhere in the headlight circuit. The circuit breakers in the light switch are auto-reset. When they cool down they turn on again. See how it reacts with high beams on. Also, I have heard of the dimmer switch wires shorting to the floor. I believe there is supposed to be an insulator under it. Below is part of the schematic, which is down in the "How To's" section. There is also the 30+ page Ford wire diagram down there if you need it. Schematics simplify the circuit and show you how it works, while wire diagrams show you how the car is actually wired with all the plugs, wire colors, etc. This is for Exterior lights. There is another page for the interior lights. Everything above the red line is the headlight circuit. If that doesn't do it, start disconnecting wires one at a time until it stops, then you'll have to follow that wire until you find the short. Since your tail lights don't work either, that involves both circuit breakers, and they should trip independently. It could be that it's such a solid short that it drags the voltage down coming into the light switch terminal B before the breaker trips. You need to find this thing before it melts some wires. I believe there are over 40 light bulbs on our cars, so this could take some digging. If you get stumped, tell us what you did and all the details- everything is a symptom.
  27. 1 point

    Dash/Head Light issue

    I believe the turn signal switch in the steering column is also part of the circuit. Maybe that?
  28. 1 point

    C4 tranny year compatibility with 69 coupe

    Yes u are correct. I got a 4R from a thunderbird and used for internals and Dan (Silverfox) helped me out with the valve body. He told me the tricks to do to it to make it shift properly. Then sold me the springs and governor parts for hardly nothing. It worked good I just never liked the nature of the AOD.
  29. 1 point

    What is this panel?

    Picture with the blue arrow is not stock. My factory A/C car looks just like the other black interior piece.
  30. 1 point

    Ridgerunner, Got Your Ears On

    Here's the original thread for anyone interested.
  31. 1 point

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Nice job it looks great.
  32. 1 point
    But it hurts so good.
  33. 1 point
    I just saw this and haven't tried them, and they are exceedingly expensive, but get this: Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB125
  34. 1 point

    Sound and Heat Instulation

    Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. Lizard skin was my other choice, but i think it would just get too messy for me. I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol
  35. 1 point
    I did mine in a satin black epoxy. Pro's are that it is easy to match/touch up the inevitable scratches and dings that will happen during installation. I think the body color option is pretty cool, but requires more prep time. So, as you said, personal preference
  36. 1 point

    Lower door weatherstrip install

    Those tabs line up/hold the edge of weather strip the way they are, they do not get bent over.
  37. 1 point

    69 coupe from SVK

    Wow! Fantastic! Beautiful!
  38. 1 point

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Thanks !
  39. 1 point

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Still working on my punchlist. Installed main door handle actuator rod. Got the "anti-rattle" sleeve from NPD, good fit and finish. Also got some of those old "red" clips that hold the actuator rods to the door handle and latch mechanism. Took picture from the top looking down inside the door, as a reminder to run the main rod with the bow toward the inside door skin. This will avoid contact with the window regulator arms. Also, don't forget to slide the main door handle actuator rod retaining clip on the rod. This keeps it away from the widow mechanism. It has an orientation tab and threaded insert, and is attached from the passenger compartment side of the door.
  40. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    1969 Mustang Coupe Trunk Deck

    I have one good pic of a convertible i built ,and a few of my ex fastback ,there is about a 1 inch boarder around the tail light panel that stays ,the rest cuts out . Coupe ,convert and fastback will all be done the same way
  41. 1 point
    Hi Bob, They make a Gel version of Evaporust. I have not used it much. In my experience Evaporust does not like to be exposed to air. Its looses its effectiveness faster when exposed to air. I would try brushing the Gel and cover the area with something like thing painters plastic or plastic wrap to keep the air away. Just allow the plastic to cover and stick to the Evaporust surface.
  42. 1 point

    Paul's 69 Mach1

    Thanks, it’s getting there slowly
  43. 1 point
    This is the 'Red Arrow' press I referred to earlier. Made in the last century and certainly looks to have a purpose other than pressing bearings. Brian
  44. 1 point
    Are you talking about the rollers that are installed with swaged stand off to the glass frame and slide inside the 3 rails? If so, I could not find any reproductions. I had a couple which had the springed edges broken. So I 3D printed a couple from ABS, ground the swaged part of the stand off, drilled a hole through the stand off and tapped it. Installed the 3D printed roller using the modified stand off and a bolt. Have been using them for a few years now and still working (but the rear windows do not get rolled up and down a lot).
  45. 1 point

    I’m racing at The Glen w HSR July 9-11

    I’ll be racing my Corvette Daytona Prototype but there will be lots of Shelbys, GT40s, Mustangs too.
  46. 1 point
    You can move towards the front more if you place a piece of wood on top of the stand to spread out the load
  47. 1 point
    Sound like your new sharp clutch rod poked a hole on the clutch fork. As you drove it made the hole larger and larger and cause the clutch paddle go lower and lower, that just my thought.
  48. 1 point

    how to wire the electric choke

    You could also use the female plug at the fire wall harness, currently using it on my 69 and 2- 70's
  49. 1 point
    I did the exact same upgrade. I love it and the only difficult part was getting the shroud around the trans cooling lines.
  50. 1 point
    On the outside like the top picture. I cut a small piece of thin rubber to put in between the brace and the valence and used a stainless socket head bolt to attach it. I think they were black from the factory? All of the ones I have taken off have been rust colored though. You can't really see them when everything is bolted together unless you really look for them.

  • Create New...