Leaderboard

Seriously. I would love to take care of this place.

Ha! Getting married is a millstone, not a milestone! LOL

Some of us old farts like taking naps...

I'm pretty particular and don't like everything even my favorite groups do, but its mostly rock. This is from my USB playlist: America Beach Boys Beatles Bobby Darin Booker T & the MGs Creedence Clearwater Criss Cross Cyndi Lauper Del Shannon Doors Eagles Elton John Enya Eurythemics Firefall Fleetwood Mac Gerry & the Pacemakers Journey Kansas Looking Glass Louis Armstrong Procol Harum Redbone Rolling Stones Simon & Garfunkel Spandau Ballet Tears for Fears The Animals The Cars The Fleetwoods The Moody Blues The Police

That is up to the owners of both sites, and the owner here is almost always absent and darn near impossible to get ahold of, so don't hold your breathe.

I use it for getting down in the rain gutter and inside the trunk drip rail ,but I love the roloc disks on a flat area used with a 90* die grinder . Those mini belt sanders are also great and you would be surprised what all you can do with those .

The wrag joint keeps a bit of the jarring out from today's roads . Make sure the two big pins are deep enough into the opposite side of the joint ,this makes you able to steer if somthing happens to the rubber part of the joint

Looks like I've been invited to SEMA this year. November 5-8, 2024. Anyone else going? If so, we should connect. -Mark

Guess I should make a tool for this ,possibly a t handle ? But a large boxed end wrench is easy and everyone probably has one !

August update! Haven't done much because its miserable to work in the shop in the summer. Had a coolish day last weekend and did some work on the car!! Got the fenders/cowl/hood/headlight buckets fitted. I'm pretty happy with how they are fitting. Nice straight lines. Except the door gaps. I have decided that I am going to let the body man do the gaps. I honestly don't want to deal with it. If I get the gaps perfect, and then the body man decides that something needs to be adjusted or whatever, then those gaps will have to be redone anyway. Not thrilled with how the hoodscoop fits. I might try making one out of metal... And the video update!!! https://youtu.be/WKP0ds7rQns

OK - here are a few things to take note of. My car was factory A/C car, so it had the vents. I did remove the lower dash vents and re-felt them. They are nice and stiff now. I hate the Vintage Air controls that came with the system. So Iam using the Dakota Digital Vintage Air controls. You can see a picture on instagram. @cruisercrap is my account. It matches well with the rest of the Dakota Digital Dash. You really need to remove the lower dash, I don't know how people claim to install it with out doing so. It did give me a chance to repaint the dash. I Scuffed and repainted with Krylon Industrial - Zoro.com (which is the consumer site of granger) has the best price $10.79 a can. Zoro part # G0742861 The install was easy, I took a few weekends, only because I rewired the dash, repainted the lower dash, ordered replacement switches, etc... It took me 3 tries to find the correct belt length!!!! Dayco 17560 worked for me. Other people used 175460. I charged it using my gauges, and estimating 1.8lbs of 134A. two 12 oz cans, and then estimated the rest using a scale. It worked ok. Then I took it to a friends shop, and used machine to evacuate - I realized I was several oz low. Using his $8K machine , we then put in the right amount of 1.8lbs. Did not even pay attention to the gauges. Works even better now. Leave your self enough slack on the ducts that attach to the middle OEM vent. I cut them a bit short, and it was a bitch getting that together!!! Last tip - Order a universal hose kit. Iam a Vintage Air dealer, and I always tell customers to do this. The reason is the hoses where a bit long, and the connectors where at the wrong angle. The A/C hoses are stiff and you really cant rotate a connector into place very easy. Being able to lay them out, mark the direction of the connectors, and have a local shop crimp the hose is worth it. I even replace one of the connectors from 90 degree angle to a 45 degree angle. I also used A/C and heater line clips from Squeeg's Hot Rob Shop. It make the install look great, no Zip ties. If I think of anything else... I'll post it here. -Mark

Stock rods are not too safe after 6. Stock rod bolts too? What valves are you running? The cam and 2v heads will probably save you getting from higher RPM anyway.

I have used a lot of after market sheet metal and i find most of it to be very good ,there is cheaper stampings that really dont fit worth a crap but parts like Dynacorn, i have had very few pieces i didnt like . I have made several 65 -68 fast back conversions and the guys always tell me their body guy is very happy with the turn out ,a couple told me the body work is pretty much the panel joints . I see people bitch and moan ...usually on face book , but its usually guys that dont have a clue what they are doing in the first place! With out these replacement panels most cars would probably not be fixable . Now you do need to do some gap work but the ford tooling panels right at the end were getting terrible. So with good original panels nearly gone i for one am very glad for the Tiawan panels

Thanks to all who got the site up and running again. This is a great group and we need to find a way to keep it going. Every time the site goes out, I feel like we just got kicked out of the Fraternity house and have no where else to go.... I hate being on Double Secret Probation... https://youtu.be/1tfK_3XK4CI?si=mbh_qhTDTzUe1CUa

Made a new end for the rear of the frame, made it out of square tube instead of c channel like the original ,the old one had seen better days . I drilled all the holes including the bumper bracket on the end ,i have the bumper brackets here some where.

The simplist and without mods would be that C4, if he rebuilt it correctly. While it may not be the optimal transmission, I'll all for getting these Mustangs on the road without necessarily building the perfect car.

With OD I'm just below 2,500 at 80 mph.

Just saw a thread on VMF about this. Most like Truetrac, since there are no clutches, and they are very smooth. A locking diff is downright nasty going around corners. Personally if you are going to put that much cash into the diff, I'd go all the way and switch to a 9". https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-traction-lock-differential-assembly.1228092/page-3?post_id=11016895#post-11016895

Thanks everyone! I ended up running a ground all the way back to the fuel tank. AAW and dakota both confirmed what everyone here said. It could be run all the way back or just grounded up by the module. I appreciate all the responses.

I actually made a set when they were not available ,wasn't to hard to do . I may still have the patern I made here some where

You can say VMF without being banned. We all spend most of our time over there now anyway, since we haven't had pictures here in the last two years. RIGHT GUYS? Maybe Ben will see this and finally do something about it? Who am I kidding

When I was building my 69 Mach 1, I planned on using a rear sway bar and had bought one. With a 1⅛ inch front sway bar, 245/40-18 in front and 255/45-18 on the back, I don't need a rear sway bar. My car is neutral thru pretty fast and tight corners. YMMV.

I bought this one, and recommend it, many years ago when they were less than half that price. That sway bar and the one inch Shelby drop will make a world of difference in how your Mustang handles. https://www.npdlink.com/product/front-sway-bar-kit-1-18/208686

OK, see new topic

Hey guys, it has been a while. I am working on a 70 Boss 302 and doing a speed run restoration for a buddy of mine who is severly ill and am not sure how long he will have to enjoy the car. It has been parked for 45 years and he has owned the car since 73 when he was a teenager. I started the rotisserie restoration in June and I am at the point of starting reassembly. I had ordered all of the wiring harnesses for the car from Alloy Metal products. I have received them all with the exception of the underdash wiring harness. Been told it is going to be 3-4 months due to parts shortages. I obviously cannot wait that long due to the circumstances of my buddy's illness. I can always reuse the original but do not want to deal with issues as time is of the essence. I know I can send the original off to have it checked out (Randy at Midlife) if I have to use it. I have scoured the internet at all of the usual parts houses with no luck. I was wondering if any of you have a new harness that you are not currently using and would be willing to part with it. I can even replace it at a later date. Willing to pay a premium if necessary. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Rick

I saw your pictures and just ordered a set myself. Thank you for the PSA. I have always been disappointed in every set of carpet mats I have bought. These look nice in your car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/134916462214?_nkw=mach+1+floor+mats&itmmeta=01J7EBN007MN66P4HMF2EG50AE&hash=item1f69a5d686:g:5QsAAOSwWVZlu~Eg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnBWHB9EDpykXUN0s9HVlLbdv8CS%2Bu7JYFCmECejuTbXq4QLqZ2lKNsaakoTvtfTZw5Z60b4sttYkUFuGwf3jUn6rQCfFFPDQX68TRiS1OL9qB4sA3MfYX3LGRRoFlWBG0gMGVhGrArSHGo%2Fi3MKYnwyp3vxPWpJRxlNsapB4x%2FG9tBzwxy34jimvNhkhVKbn8BUk2vEGUC35aD1iXTc%2BaXJzFRQxlQSFvMUsz45sac5WnSLoJiTMqA14baUCIkOoro8F1gwVFP7ZCmAJTBh3UB%2FqFkbpYIvAzS5dW3ZvZ0lQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6CA1Mu7ZA

Thanks. Old dash pad went into the dumpster trailer. Now there's more room for new treasure.

Just curious, but you must mean the dash pad (since you mention foam)? I don't see how restoring an original makes any sense. I would send it to the landfill.

Opened my oil pump up. Wanted to see if it was still good. Looks like something got between the housing and the gears gouging them. You can barely feel it but I'll replace the pump while I have the engine apart.

Not being able to post pics kind of sticks a fork in . I have been busy so not much time to spare . Got most of the project from others out of the shop so i may be able to work on something of mine soon . I would like to get the 4.6 3 v dropped in my 56 fairlane and start tearing into it. Although i do need to get the 69 blasted and in epoxy primer.

The video isn't quite correct. I'm the original owner of a 69 Mach1 that by coincidence is the same color as in the video. I was 19 when I bought it new. The reason there were no screws in the kit for the lanyards to attach to the core support is because the loop in the lanyard was simply pushed down over the pin, not screwed to the core support. Also, the lanyards were not routed through the grill, they just lay on top of it. The only difference I see in the kit and the original parts is that the swaging sleeves used to make the loops in the lanyards are much larger than on the originals. Its too bad you can't buy just the lanyards from Ford anymore but this appears to be the closest reproduction available now. I can't tell you how many times I've replaced those over the years because the protective plastic covering on the lanyards cracks and falls off as it ages.

I have used https://imgbb.com/ with success in the past.

I don't know about Phil, but I still delete a lot of bot posts.

I haven't used this personally yet, but am considering it. It has pretty positive reviews around the interwebs. https://outofsightaudio.com/ There are also some dedicated bluetooth amps that can do it as well. I found the Out of Sight interesting because it's small and offers flexibility.

Machspeed, I did this a couple of weeks ago. In order, the two bolts with J-nuts at the wheel opening. The captured nut that goes in the valance from the inside, then from the outside through the bracket that attaches to the bumper. Top center of the valance, attaches to the center support with a J-nut on the support. (a couple of these I couldn't get to focus) The bolt that goes through the valance in the front and attaches to the headlight extension with a J-nut on the extension. And from the back Last is the bottom of the main support that attaches to the core support. Usually there's a J-nut on this, but the new spoiler came with a nut and bolt I used instead. No spoiler then it's definitely a J-nut. Reverse for the other side.

I heated up a rod for the different sized holes. Worked pretty well.

Just wanted to confirm the caliper is on the right side. This was according to the part number. Thanks

Trying to drill out those rivets in the cut up radiator brackets ,i broke off a drill bit! The metal is like drilling a lead steel mix and it grabs drill bits ,kind of like stainless steel ! After a few good cuss words ...did i say a few ? I got the last rivet out with a diamond grinder bit

This 35 truck bed is a deal at 2,200.,it is un assembled but i have built at least 4 so it no problem ,it is every piece to build a complete bed and for the same price they will ad the wood floor and stainless trim . I get a little farther along and i will order one ,this is from Mack Products and they are just like the original .

I got the two frame ends blasted and primed ,not a lot of pitting ,mainly where it had a hitch bolted over the frame but still nothing bad . The rest of the frame is heavily painted ,it was hard to blast off the ends so i am thinking the main rails will be in great shape! He cut these ends with what looks like a chop saw blade about 1/8 inch think so i will have to leave a gap when i weld them back on ,i will use a chop saw blade to space it

Damn. Sorry to hear that, and hope things work out for you.

While we're on the subject of solenoids, I would recommend to anyone who has an older Ford vehicle with the solenoid mounted on the inner fender to occasionally have someone start the vehicle while you observe the solenoid. This should be done with the ambient lighting low enough to visually observe an electrical arc if one is present, preferably at night. I had an older Mustang with the original solenoid still in it, no problems with starting at all. My Dad started the vehicle while I just so happened to be looking into the engine bay and sure enough, a large arc of electrical current ran from the housing to one of the mounting screws. After close examination I could see a small fracture had formed in the housing after about 50 years of age and heat cycling.

I finally did get back there. Thanks for the hand on starting from the firewall side connections. I have them staged in an area where I can move them around, so I’ll probably put the dash in and see what happens, let the fun begin….

This guy forgot about installing the fender extension moldings before attaching them to the fenders. It can be done when the extension is bolted to the fender, but I'd rather stack BBs that do that again.

Hey Mike, looks good. Not sure if you are planning to use any LED tail lights. I have them on both my cars, they have a built in sequential function. Not that expensive, and they look cool. Vic

As mentioned before the switch for power brakes is more sensitive that the one for manual brakes, there is thread about this somewhere on the forum. A more drastic solution could be installing a proportioning valve combo unit that has an integrated fluid pressure switch like the one attached. I'm Installing one of these while I replace brake lines and plan to try it.

Not at a plumbing or hardware store. A good auto parts store like NAPA might have something. Summit Racing has a larger selection of NPT to hose fittings. You can probably find a fitting that will work without any adapters. I ended up with stainless steel fittings from Summit Racing. For an aluminum intake manifold, a stainless steel, aluminum, or brass fitting is a better option than a steel fitting.

Always like play this in my 69

Hear is a picture when I got the 70tie. Thanks for the welcome.