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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/24/2022 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    Ridge Runner

    Ridgerunner Sail Panels

    First set is for TexasEd. They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .
  2. 3 points
    whe42

    windshield washer pump

    So was able to test wires and ended up being the plug was faulty so I replaced it and all works well. Thank u to all for ur help.
  3. 3 points
    I guess I got lucky installing my fuel sending unit. It went in easy peasy and didn't leak. Yet...
  4. 2 points
    Shrewd1

    69 Shaker Hood Packaging

    I was looking for a hood for my car and noticed the shipping to me in Ohio would be around $150 to $175 from the different web sites. I then found a reasonable price for a Scott Drake hood with free shipping, it was shipped through FedEx Freight. I was somewhat impressed with the packaging from Holley sold through the dominant online retailer.
  5. 2 points
    aslanefe

    bucket seats

    Seat back is not adjustable, it only folds for access to rear seats and locks at a fix position when raised. Rubber stops are just to eliminate rattle at seat backs fixed position. I guess if you remove the rubber pieces, seat back will lean back a little more.
  6. 2 points
    TexasEd

    Wilwood brakes

    Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums? I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc. Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed. You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install. None of those problems switching to manual discs. So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step. Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
  7. 2 points
    RogerC

    69 SuperCoupe

    I don't have any pics to post but I had to create some spacing on the backside of the bulb housings to replace what I cut off and so the bulbs sit right. I made spacers from PVC pipe, attached them to the bulb housings with JB Weld, primed with SEP then sprayed the area with spray-on rubber. They're solidly attached and not going anywhere. The headlight bowls were primed with SEP after completely coated with POR15 then top coated with KBS satin chassis black and the rims were sprayed with the spray-on rubber.
  8. 2 points
    Grabber70Mach

    69 SuperCoupe

    Progress is always good no matter how slowly it goes. It's definitely more progress than I've got done.
  9. 2 points
    Print Dad

    Brake pedal height follow up

    Well fixed perfect. I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod, the result is perfect pedal height great brakes. so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter. the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost . he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master. I will never really know.. but it is done. I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help thank..,sam thanks
  10. 1 point
    gtonavy

    Vintage LEDs Christmas Sale

    Hello I'm having the Christmas sale again this year. Christmas Sale 10% off all orders on in stock items November 27th thru December 5th. Enter coupon code XMAS2022 at checkout https://www.vintageleds.com/store/c2/Mustangs.html
  11. 1 point
    san408

    69 mach1 Wheel and tire size

    They are 5.5” backspace. Probably could have gone with 6” and used a spacer to get it a little more right on, but I don’t think they make these in 6” backspace.
  12. 1 point
    TexasEd

    I see the light ... body and paint

    So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in. Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger. I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids. Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January. So excited. Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop. Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time. I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps. My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else. Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people. So share your stories, encouragement and advice. Drivetrain Plan: Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan: I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff. I could potentially do all the following Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
  13. 1 point
    san408

    69 mach1 Wheel and tire size

    I just bought 15x10 rear wheels with 275/60 drag radials. The car has a 1" lowering block in the pictures, so that's probably going to have to come out to gain some clearance. Stock 9" rearend and caltracs. (Not installed yet.) The fronts are skinnies.
  14. 1 point
    RogerC

    115K "R" code Mach 1 on Ebay

    Update Just noticed it's still listed on Ebay but price is now 90K. This paragraph from the "dealer" just kills me Condition: Used Seller Notes: “We represent this vehicle to the best of our ability; however, we strongly encourage all interested parties to come and see the vehicle in person or have a third party inspection. All purchases will be charged a $250 PRE-DELIVERY SERVICE CHARGE*. Additional charges such as sales tax, tag fees, registration fees, government fees, shipping charges, or finance charges may be charged depending on the state you are registering the vehicle and/or having it transported. (*This charge represents costs and profit to the dealer for items such as inspecting, cleaning, and adjusting vehicles, and preparing documents related to the sale.)”
  15. 1 point
    copb8

    Vintage LEDs Christmas Sale

    Agree. I've had mine 3 years and they have been flawless.
  16. 1 point
    det0326

    Wilwood brakes

    The only thing I could add is if your car's engine is pretty much stock making lot of vacuum, power assist will work fine. If not tho and making low vacuum in my opinion u would be better off with manual discs. This is me been there done that thing
  17. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Thank you, the extra space is great. It is nice to finally be getting the shop organized the way I want so I can get back working on the Mustang again.
  18. 1 point
    jmlay

    SOT 3 link - install/Reviews

    If the width is stock 28 spline axle in a big housing would utilize an 88128-RA.
  19. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Ridgerunner Sail Panels

    Scuff with a green scotch brite then either sems satin black or a good quality spray can . You can primer but very lightly or it will fill in the grain
  20. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Ridgerunner Sail Panels

    What painting recommendations do you have Ridge?
  21. 1 point
    det0326

    Thinking about another project

    Hmm good point, don't know but will have to check that out. Thanks Bob
  22. 1 point
    RPM

    69 Mach1front seat value

    Top of my head without any research I'd say $750.
  23. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry I’ve not posted in here for ages… Car was more or less ready at end of September and was getting it ready for a large local show over here in England. Basically I never got there because ihas all sorts of issues with my C4, which I bought used and was supposed to have been rebuilt….needless to say it screwed up, so no show… Collected the box and TQ today, so that will be going back in over next 2 weeks or so, when I get a spare moment. In the meanwhile, I’ve been busy tidying up/fitting new interior parts eg one piece headliner, BMW E30 seats, 3 point sets belts, gauge pod etc and tidy up engine bay wiring etc chris
  24. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    I have not posted here in a couple years, & the Mustang took a back seat to home renovation. Now that the house is where we want it & we got the garage/shop built the work will continue on the Mustang. Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure. New garage/shop with our spare truck 99 Explorer Sport, my newest DD 2005 F150 regular cab 2WD, & my wife's DD 2021 Bronco Sport. We did not plan to have them all red it just worked out that way. The Mustang & my wife's Kawasaki Motorcycle in their new home. Inside complete interior spray foam insulated & the lower area is painted the brightest whit we could find to help with lighting. We have 4 LED lights in the ceiling fixtures, & 4 (2each side) LED light fixtures.
  25. 1 point
    mikee

    69 coupe from SVK

    Hi Guys ... after a while (that felt like forever) So my lesson learned - never judge engine after removing one cylinder head :) After I took down the second one o found some scratches in cylinder 6 and suspicious spot in cylinder 7 that could be a crack. So my optimism was gone and I knew I have to disassembly whole endine. I made penetration test of cylinder 7 - and it came out that it was no crack. The biggest disappointment was then I realized that the engine is already 0.040 over. The bearings of connection rods were also destroyed as well as on crankshaft. I spent hours on net to browse 351w topics and videos, what are my possibilities. To bore it over to 4.060" is to risky, to sleeve it to expensive and to find some good block for reasonable price in europe is impossible. So I decided to just refresh the engine (hone the cylinders, re ring it and change all bearings, timing, cam, lifters and oil pump), put it together so I can finish the car. With finished hone I was able to get roundness and taper to factory specs, but my bore is up to 0,002 inch over the top limit. Anyway, no option at this time, at least the crank is 0,010 under so I can let it grind to 0,020 and balance. Im looking now for parts to order. Except piston rings and camshaft it should be no problem. Rings - I'm not sure if I buy 0,040 over rings the gap will be not too big (my worn rings make 0,026" gap). I'm thinking to buy 0,060s and grind them to size, but I don't know if the shape of rings is already different because of bigger diameter. Camshaft - I can't find some stock cam or some alternative in any shop (everywhere is only edelbrock performer + )
  26. 1 point
    foot

    69 mach1 Wheel and tire size

    I have 18x9 torq thrust 5 bs 285/35/18 rear. 18x8 4.5 bs front 255/35/18 front.
  27. 1 point
    RogerC

    69 SuperCoupe

    A friend at work bead blasted my headlight buckets for me, he's currently doing my headlight extensions. I found I needed to increase the hole on the backside by almost 3/8 inch to clear the back of the bulb housing. I also had to trim 3 tabs off the bulb housings, they were larger and didn't match the buckets. Touched up the backside of the bulb housings where I cut off the tabs with POR15 (the backside is metal). Coated the inside surface of the headlight buckets with POR15. Have to coat the backside then paint. Thinking of coating the rim of each bucket with a couple coats of spray rubber. I'm thinking it might prevent any rubbing of the headlight housing when mounted.
  28. 1 point
    RobotMan

    Foot well vent panel

    I too had the same problem on my sons car. We fabricated a patch as I considered replacing the whole panel but the complexity of it interfacing with surrounding panels and rockers led me to my choice. However you must have side cowls removed to repair like this. Also make sure to put sealant on screw holes as they will leak when water runs down the cowls.
  29. 1 point
    69Mach1 M code

    Foot well vent panel

    Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here). The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.
  30. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Been making steady but what seems like slow progress over the last 2 months, whilst waiting for some parts to come over via US. New brake lines installed. Had a right game bench bleeding the master cylinder but all done now. Wiring harness is in and connected - thanks to Randy at Midlife for the refurb one, top drawer as usual - all electrics work fine All lights now working including my new sequential LED’s - love them ! Original column refurbed and manual steering all now complete - but I think the internal column is way to close the external housing nr to the coupling - I’ll put a post up in tech parts of forum - any thoughts ? (going to EPAS later down the line) the 408W stroker is about to land via US to Felixstowe U.K. in the next 10 days, been a long time coming, then I’ll fit it and hopefully drive it around the block Chris
  31. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    For the first time in 3 yrs the car is back in terra firms, slowly putting it back together - just trying to find all those bits you think you saved/took off, but can’t find in the myriad of boxes…
  32. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

  33. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

  34. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

  35. 1 point
    staffy

    69 Restomod (UK)

    Sorry it’s been a fair time since I’ve updated progress. Relatively slow progress we work has been so busy, but I’ve started the long refit process: street or track front suspension in rear suspension in with axle fuel tank and lines in Changes to manual steering, quick rack, ready for EPAS later down the line Just trying to work out the brake lines and prop valve (bought a booster via mustang steve, we manual before) rear lights, bumper and new flush lenses with LED’s in just keep working up my new parts list, stuff is so hard to get over to U.K. at the moment, having to work 2 months in advance. 408W engine via Blueprint is on 5 month lead time (ordered 2 months ago) Chris
  36. 0 points
    Ridge Runner

    69 Shaker Hood Packaging

    Shipped a hood out through a company here in Cali. Last week ,got a message from the buyer it was damaged in shipping ,shipping company shoved a fork lift fork through the box and cut a rear corner off the hood . Some times you get a part through like it is supposed to be and sometimes you dont its getting kind of like a crap shoot shipping now days ,i guess 1 out of about 200 isnt bad though .


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