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It is really sad to see all the spam. If it wasn't for the spam there wouldn't be much activity at all . Sure wish there was something we could do to stop it. The ability to post pics, the way we use to, would be nice too.

My opinion? Traction will be your problem before the 8" gives you any trouble. Brian

It turns out the battery will not hold a charge, so I need to get a new battery. It is going to wait until after Christmas. I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving.

Been spending most of the day flagging spammers and deleting posts. If the owner @bswor of the site doesn't care about the site, why should I?

Hey Mike, the car is looking really good , It’s coming together. It’s been pretty cold down this way as well, but, I think it’s gonna be pretty nice this weekend.

Thanks RPM, I tried using my Flickr account & it worked. 100_2385 by Michael Grentus, on Flickr

There is no real answer to how many rpm at 70. In my opinion you need to determine at what rpm you engine is comfortable cruising without lugging in high gear. Use that as a guide.

wasn't the t5's in the later model mustangs paired with a 373 gear.

Just saw a thread on VMF about this. Most like Truetrac, since there are no clutches, and they are very smooth. A locking diff is downright nasty going around corners. Personally if you are going to put that much cash into the diff, I'd go all the way and switch to a 9". https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-traction-lock-differential-assembly.1228092/page-3?post_id=11016895#post-11016895

Unless you'll be getting more power and slicks, you'll be fine.

Thank you very much.

No way! It's impossible that I was correct!! Just ask my ex-wife!

I got the starter installed & the wires run today. Battery was dead so I had to charge it. Will test it tomorrow.

My new plate arrived!

Ahhhh...the well known (to some!) problem of 1969/70 gauges not working when replacing a circuit card. The gauges first pass through a small rectangular hole, then a cardboard rectangular piece fits over the two posts onto the metal housing, then the circuit card, then the two nuts which hold everything together. The problem? Any one of the gauges' posts can contact the metal housing without you seeing it, shorting all of the oil, water, and fuel gauges to ground, as they are all tied together with the CVR output. The ammeter is separate and MUST not touch the housing, as it will cause a dead short to either of the two hot and non-fused wires. How to test? Unsnap the battery snaps on the CVR and measure the resistance from any post of the oil/fuel/water gauges to the metal housing. You'll either see something very close to 0 ohms or 14 ohms, depending upon which post is shorted. How to fix? Loosen each gauge up, reposition, and retighten. Test again. This is a PITA as you don't know which gauge is shorting. Better solution is to remove the circuit card, then the cardboard insulated pad, and line each rectangular hole with black electrical tape. Put everything back together and you should be good to go.

No; she's a professional archeologist and I'm simply a bum.

Hi, I'm very joyful to ban you from this community! Instead of deleting this thread though as usual I plan to leave it here like a head on a stick as a warning to all the inbred scum like yourself that the hammer is going to come down real hard and real fast. May you die of guanaria and rot in hell. Merry F'n Xmas! Anyone who is bored feel free to start sending ungodly amounts of useless emails to this account: meghannoonypfn039@outlook.com