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I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light. For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time. It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings. It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive. This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is. In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long. I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless

Installing my kick panel and vent mounted speakers

That looks like a '69 bracket in your picture. The '70 version of that bracket is in the diagram below, with my pencil pointing at it. They serve the same purpose, which is to tie the forward facing part of the under column bracket to the clutch/brake pedal support bracket. This is only on the drivers side of the column. The diagram is from the Orange "Chassis" Assembly Manual. The '69 column also has an upper column bracket. The '70 column doesn't have that, instead uses threaded bosses on the column that attach the column to the lower column support. For some reason, on the '70, Ford decided to change the design to anchor the column differently. In the assembly drawings, the '70 small bracket (3B139) has a small diamond next to it, which means that it had to be installed per some specific instructions to meet government safety standards. This is because it is tied into the function of the collapsing steering column, which has to be anchored inside the car to prevent rearward movement into the passenger compartment. This started in 1968, which also delivered such goodies as padded dashes, shoulder belts, padded steering wheel centers, side marker lights, etc, etc... Anyway, the 2 pictures you posted yesterday are the '70 bracket.

Got the Fox Body door locks, and they are great OEM quality parts. Just had to install the lock rod retainer on the other side of the lever, and they went right in. The new style plastic retainers are really heavy duty, more so than the original plastic insert with the little metal clips. Tip is to install that on door lock before putting the lock in the car. Less busted knuckles that way....

Well that is another bracket that I have and figured that was where to place it. I am not sure what it does either.

Used #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal screws 1-1/2" long, with #6 SS washers. From local ACE Hardware.

#6 SS pan head sheet metal screws, 1-1/2" long, from Ace Hardware. Used #6 SS washers. Worked well, looks good.

More good info: https://www.deadnutson.com/1969-70-factoids-1/

Here is another great site. https://www.mustangtek.com/

Thanks for posting the info. I had forgotten about those.

I just skimmed through the web page. What a great resource! Thank you for posting it. I have save it for future reference.

Cool tip. I did not know that book existed.

Oh, that’s very interesting with your rev limiter, good job troubleshooting that

I am pretty sure you can use the dash without the tabs. Vic

I finally went with Eaton Spring (the old Detroit Spring) and used 5 leaf springs on my '68. They have the original spring patterns from Ford, and reproduce them with high quality steel. I used the part number for the GT suspension. The car is stiff, with a firm ride, but no bouncing. I have Bilsteins. Did the same on my '70 convertible. One other possibility is that your driveshaft is binding. I had this happen years ago, because I measured my driveshaft length when the car was up in the air. Big mistake. I installed the driveshaft when the car was in the air, and it seemed to fit fine. But the car did ride and handle funny. I found this out later when my rear universal joint failed.....

Nice shop and driveway....don't see any burnout marks on the driveway yet..... My buddy used a "mini-split" to cool/heat his shop that is about the same size as yours. He also has a few ceiling fans. The heat in the summer will likely be more of an issue than being cold in the winter. Bob, that fuel pump is cool, old school. I had a '64-1/2 Mustang with a "D" code 289 4 barrel years ago, and it had that style pump. I think that some of the old Ford 260 V8s used them as well. That is a solid pump.

I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car. Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around. If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes. Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.

Love that look. I did the door inserts in the same silver as my gauge bezels.