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It is really sad to see all the spam. If it wasn't for the spam there wouldn't be much activity at all . Sure wish there was something we could do to stop it. The ability to post pics, the way we use to, would be nice too.

Thanks for the kind words, Bob, but it's definitely a team effort. I really wish Ben would update the site.

My opinion? Traction will be your problem before the 8" gives you any trouble. Brian

It turns out the battery will not hold a charge, so I need to get a new battery. It is going to wait until after Christmas. I hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving.

No way! It's impossible that I was correct!! Just ask my ex-wife!

I got the starter installed & the wires run today. Battery was dead so I had to charge it. Will test it tomorrow.

Cool indeed, but $100 cool? I've used straight edges with pretty good luck.

I put down 453rwhp 525rwtq with 3:50s with a TKX (68OD) behind my 427w stroker. At 65mph I'm around 2100-2300rpm, under 60 Im at 1800-2k rpms with ford 9 3:50's. if you have the 5 speed already installed, go with a ford 9 w/ 3:50s and go 31 spline trutrac, thats what I have and its a fun car to drive, good rpm pick up for street and highway. Otherwise, stick with the stock 8 until you upgrade. no need to invest in a ford 8 when it cost a few hundred more to go with a ford 9.

Been spending most of the day flagging spammers and deleting posts. If the owner @bswor of the site doesn't care about the site, why should I?

With OD I'm just below 2,500 at 80 mph.

Thank you, however Phil @69RavenConv has done most of the work with the spammers.

Hey Mike, the car is looking really good , It’s coming together. It’s been pretty cold down this way as well, but, I think it’s gonna be pretty nice this weekend.

Thanks RPM, I tried using my Flickr account & it worked. 100_2385 by Michael Grentus, on Flickr

There is no real answer to how many rpm at 70. In my opinion you need to determine at what rpm you engine is comfortable cruising without lugging in high gear. Use that as a guide.

It doesn't help that we have an absentee owner who insists on approving everything.

wasn't the t5's in the later model mustangs paired with a 373 gear.

Just saw a thread on VMF about this. Most like Truetrac, since there are no clutches, and they are very smooth. A locking diff is downright nasty going around corners. Personally if you are going to put that much cash into the diff, I'd go all the way and switch to a 9". https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/best-traction-lock-differential-assembly.1228092/page-3?post_id=11016895#post-11016895

Unless you'll be getting more power and slicks, you'll be fine.

Thank you very much.

From the Chassis Assembly Manual: Standard suspension 27.02" GT & IMP, Handling 36.72" (obviously an error- it's probably 26.72") Competition 26.62" all are +1.00, -0.70 Mine is still stock with 14" rims and 27.375".

Oh. Getting close. Hope you get it started.

Thanks everyone! I ended up running a ground all the way back to the fuel tank. AAW and dakota both confirmed what everyone here said. It could be run all the way back or just grounded up by the module. I appreciate all the responses.

I actually made a set when they were not available ,wasn't to hard to do . I may still have the patern I made here some where

I ordered a new PMGR starter & it was delivered today. I am on vacation for a week so I should get it installed & tested before the end of my vacation.

Thanks for the response. The whole kit is over $200 and I really don't want to spend that for one small bracket. I'm not very skilled with a welder so I was hoping to start with a new bracket. I may need to try utilize the damaged one, if I can't find a replacement bracket.

I found a link to these very informative posts on VMF, but the actual posts were on allfordmustangs.com. I have added a previous post by the same author and it is now 9 pages long. He talks about what the ammeter is and how to improve it's sensitivity. Since I plan to switch to Dakota Digital retro tech, I have no need to make the modification, but for those of you that want to actually have a useful (or working) ammeter you will definitely find the attached Word file useful. Kudos to Ivy66GT who went to all the trouble to figure this out. Ford ammeters 2.docx

Ahh... okay. I thought I was the only one flagging spammers and deleting posts. Ha ha :)

A spammer replied to the thread, which is why it got bumped. The spam's been deleted. Re=reading it got me thinking of giving it a try myself.

Get the thicker best brace ,I think national parts depot carries it ,the rest do not fit

Do they want 69 stang eliminated or for someone to delete them from 69 stang ? If they want to be deleted then why in the hell did they sign up in the first place ! Now I know they are all scammers ,but arnt they smart enough to leave 69 stang by them selvs? Well ,they are dumb enough to post there crap on a mustang forum ! To bad there wasn't some way to post a flood of post back to them ,I once got an email bomb ,took forever to whipe it out ,I thought I was going to have to trash my computer to get rid of it .

With the plethora of them the past few days I would enjoy that RR.

Way to go Mike! That is a big milestone! Vic

Today is a beautiful 62 ° Fall Day so I spent some time in the garage. I took the battery from my old Ranger P/U & put it in the Mustang so I could see if the engine turns over. Hooked it up & tried it the starter just spins. Jacked up the car & checked the starter & it seems when I installed the starter, I did not fully tighten the bolts. I tightened the bolts & retried it & the engine cranks over. Now I need to get some gas & try to see if it will start up.

@Rsanter uses a B9 spec smaller diameter booster, but I can't recall from where he bought it.

Probably the most common complaint. Personally I wouldn't mess with what I consider the most important system on the car. You could go with manual brakes, but I would stick with the combination of parts that Henry's engineers selected. I have low expectations for aftermarket parts.

My new plate arrived!

Ahhhh...the well known (to some!) problem of 1969/70 gauges not working when replacing a circuit card. The gauges first pass through a small rectangular hole, then a cardboard rectangular piece fits over the two posts onto the metal housing, then the circuit card, then the two nuts which hold everything together. The problem? Any one of the gauges' posts can contact the metal housing without you seeing it, shorting all of the oil, water, and fuel gauges to ground, as they are all tied together with the CVR output. The ammeter is separate and MUST not touch the housing, as it will cause a dead short to either of the two hot and non-fused wires. How to test? Unsnap the battery snaps on the CVR and measure the resistance from any post of the oil/fuel/water gauges to the metal housing. You'll either see something very close to 0 ohms or 14 ohms, depending upon which post is shorted. How to fix? Loosen each gauge up, reposition, and retighten. Test again. This is a PITA as you don't know which gauge is shorting. Better solution is to remove the circuit card, then the cardboard insulated pad, and line each rectangular hole with black electrical tape. Put everything back together and you should be good to go.

No; she's a professional archeologist and I'm simply a bum.

Hi, I'm very joyful to ban you from this community! Instead of deleting this thread though as usual I plan to leave it here like a head on a stick as a warning to all the inbred scum like yourself that the hammer is going to come down real hard and real fast. May you die of guanaria and rot in hell. Merry F'n Xmas! Anyone who is bored feel free to start sending ungodly amounts of useless emails to this account: meghannoonypfn039@outlook.com