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I've got a set and they are Primo.

I have a set of originals to make the molds ,problem is they are so brittle the originals would probably break removing them from the molds ,you would have a tough time breaking fiberglass ones though .. if I get my materials soon I will see what I can do

I have a set from NPD made for the 69 Mach-1 that are going on my 69 Coupe. They were $50.00. OE Style Hood Pin Kit - 16700-1A - National Parts Depot

I thought that if the hoses were reversed that it turned back and forth by itself.

Anyone interested in starting a 3D printing thread? I've got a decent printer at home, and since I got it I have taught myself some CAD. I think it would be nice to have a library of parts for the mustang, and those of us that can make them, can print stuff in our spare time, and provide to other users. I recently wanted a box to contain a fuel-gauge calibration device, and I created this in about an hours worth of CAD and then some longer hours printing: It's not perfect, but it allowed me to use an existing bolt to hold down the device, and store the wires/connections in the trunk. Here it is installed: It seems to me there is a need for 3D printing stuff for ourselves, and as we design the parts we can perhaps keep a library of them somewhere, and if people need one or several, those of us with time and printers can help out. What do you all think? Jay

OK, that's Doug. I haven't heard from him in a while. I did a modification to the filler neck to prevent gas from spitting back when filling, and Doug took it a step further, with the help of some tooling he had available. He uses the stock filler neck and modifies it, so it already has the dimple, as does my version. I still use a vented cap underneath the flip-down style cap to prevent Phil's experience two posts above with the collapsing gas tank. The problem with the Tanks Inc. VVR Rollover Vent that you mention is that it has to be positioned vertically with the hose at the bottom and the screen at the top, or it plugs itself and doesn't vent. There are few if any places to correctly and safely position the thing. It needs to be above the tank and outside the car (not in the trunk). Some people put it in the wheel well, but in my mind that's a bad idea. The hose and vent need to be completely clear of the tire. It would also get lots of spray from the tire in the rain- not a good idea in my opinion. As long a you vent the tank you will be alright. Not knowing what your cap does exactly, none of us can make a judgement. Something like the Newton TPV6 or TPV8 tank vent works well, see post #19 in: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/ideas-for-solution-to-venting-the-gas-tank.1074018/page-2. It prevents excessive expansion or contraction in the tank. Expansion would be caused by the fuel expanding on a hot day, and contraction is caused by the fuel pump sucking gas out of the tank. It needs to be positioned as high as possible in the trunk above the tank- like around the trunk latching mechanism. Then the hose must be run outside. Ford stuck the end of the hose into the rear frame rail, see post #27 in: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/ideas-for-solution-to-venting-the-gas-tank.1074018/page-2 .

Sealants- its like politics- everyone seems to have an opinion Water pump bolts- use anti-seize on non-threaded shaft of bolts Intake manifold- use anti-seize on front & rear bolts on non-threaded shaft of bolts. Use Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker at front and rear China rail. Sam Mahdavi says to clean surface with alcohol or brake cleaner, use Permatex Ultra Gray, let it cure for a few minutes then assemble. There are special versions of Permatex for water pumps, sensors, transmission fluid, synthetic oils, etc. Here is a collection of comments on sealants from various people on several forums: NEFaurora My personal preferences below: I only use Fel-Pro Brand Gaskets ever. Valve cover - Rubber Gasket, not Cork.... - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Thermostat housing - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Water pump - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Fuel pump - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - No Sealant used. Oil pan - Rubber Gasket, not Cork.... - Thin line of Permatex Ultrablue or UltraBlack Carburetor - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - No Sealant used. Carburetor spacer - Paper, Cardboard or Fiber Gasket - No Sealant used. Some people like and use the Original Cork Gaskets..... I am definately NOT one of those crowd. I got tired of cleaning cork gasket material off of my engines and finding bits and pieces of them in my oil pans and oil valleys. When they came out with the Rubber Gaskets in the 1980's, I was ecstatic...and have been ever since. Happy stang Felpro gaskets and "The Right Stuff" gasket maker are all I use. Don't use any type of silicon/gasket maker on the carburetor or spacer gasket. Fitch I use Fel=Pro gaskets and a thin coat of Permatex gasket maker RTV. https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8218...99660406&psc=1 On these 70 yo engines, there is going to be some pitting so, you have to use some sealer along with the gaskets in some areas. If I am installing a new component such as a water pump, I spray the side of the gasket that goes to the pump with 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold it in place and then apply a thin coat of rtv. I also glue the gasket to the valve cover and oil pan . I dont use any sealant on valve covers and only a little in each corner of the oil pan. No sealant on the thermostat housing unless it is pitted. I usually spray a copper sealant on each side of the head gaskets. I use a thin coat of RTV around the water jackets on the heads and intake on both sides of the gasket (very thin ). I glue the front and rear intake seals to the block and use RTV on each corner there also along with a thin bead of RTV along the top side. Everyone has their own practices when to comes to gaskets and sealants. What works for me may not work for you. The best gaskets, clean surfaces, and a torque wrench are your best friends. Work fast but carefully as not to pinch or roll the gaskets. NEFaurora (again) The Permatex UltraBlue and UltraBlack are all I ever use... I would never use the Regular RTV...even if Permatex was the maker....but that's just me. I don't like any regular RTV Sealant. Permatex Does make a "HIGH TACK" Black "Brush-On" Gasket Sealant for head gaskets....and it's fantastic stuff...No leaks! I've used it for decades.. The Part Number is Permatex #98H-80062, or just #80062. Woodchuck I use (and have used for the last 45 years) one primary gasket sealant, Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. I WILL, on occasion, use Permatex Ultra Black RTV on spots where cork & rubber meet or where there are 2 gaskets and an exposed parting line. Examples are between the cork end seals and intake manifold gaskets, same on the oil pan between the cork sides and rubber ends...but just a "dot". The factory didn't use RTV and these cars didn't leak on the showroom or lot floor, and you darn well believe that people wouldn't put up with them leaking on their garage floor or driveway! I try to use Victor-Reinz (Mahle) gaskets where I can get them. Gypsy R The engine killing RTV "strings" come from where two surfaces come together and the RTV squeezes out the sides. If you see some squeezing out then some is also squeezing "in". THAT is where the strings come from, they don't stay attached in the long run. They'll end up in your radiator or your oil pump pickup, neither is good. I don't know any qualified professional mechanics that advocate coating any gaskets with silicone, most technical publications and seminar holders advise people NOT to do that. But if you just have to at least make sure none is squeezing out. Use as little as possible if you just can't do "none". But folks, they're your engines. I'm retired from buying dead-engined vehicles that others have abused and rehabbing them so I'm not hunting any more such deals. I sure made some money on more than a few such over the years though. That said, you can "get away" with a lot of things on a car that only gets driven a dozen times a year or something. A daily driver is going to suffer more and problems tend to rear their heads in months instead of years. This long term stuff matters to me. My main motorcycle I bought in 1987 (with a bad engine), it was 13 years old then. Still the main ride. One daily driver truck I've had since Katrina, 14 years, and it's 38 year sold now. (Bought with a bad engine) The younger daily driver truck (I switch back and forth) I've only had about 10 years now I guess. It's 24 (bought with a bad and abused engine). '67 Mustang for over 20 years. It's engine wasn't actually bad, just ignored way too long. Wife's once driver is an '86, previous owner had no concept of oil changes. Forgot the youngun', wife's driver is 18 now and also was a previous victim of bad/no maintenance. You kill'em, I revive 'em. And then KEEP them going. For as long as I want. Between the four main vehicles in my driveway right now are almost a million miles. And every one rescued and bought cheap because of it. Tallguy I have taken a different path. No sealant on gaskets for me on gaskets except the following: 1) Oil pan gasket sealant on the corners (I have a one piece rubber type gasket) 2) Intake Manifold - no sealer on intake gaskets but used Permatex Ultra Gray in the corners and top and bottom of the cork end pieces. Why not throw away the cork like people say? Well when I tried just using Permatex it is a thick bead and when I had to remove my intake two weeks later it was still not dry (not even close in the middle). So this time I used the cork and it will be just fine. Not sealant on the water pump, timing cover, water neck, head gaskets, valve covers (I have rubber style), carb, fuel pump, oil pump/pickup and whatever else I can't think of. The newer gaskets call for no sealant in the instructions. Of course if you have a sub standard surface you may decide it best to use a little sealant to fill the voids. Time will tell if I get leaks but not a drop during cam break in. One other thing to consider is to torque everything properly and clean the surfaces prior to installing gaskets 66Coupe289 For me those cork intake end gaskets go in the trash and a bead of RTV is used. A dot of RTV is used at joint between cork and rubber oil pan gaskets. A thin coat of Gask-a-Cinch is used to hold gaskets in place.(oil pan, fuel pump, rear end) Nothing on carb gaskets, ever.

The VMF would be a good place to get opinions. As an owner I do have some experience in researching this type of resto. There are a least two outfits that can re-chrome the dash bezel. Recommendations run hot and cold. One thing they seem to have in common is the over-the-top expense. It seems, to me, a reliable and affordable restoration may not be possible. The Drake reproduction may be worth the gamble? Brian

A friend of mine many years ago had a 69 Mach-1 & had little pad locks through the pins that stick through the hood instead of the clips. https://www.staples.com/master-lock-key-padlock-2-pack-120t/product_428466

On A/C car heating system, the blend/direction doors are vacuum actuated, so you need to check/replace the vacuum hoses (and the vacuum canister) if you want the ability to direct the hot (or cold) air to where you want (floor, dash etc) even if A/C is not operative.

I have two rights and a left and right for fastback ,and somewhere around I have one real nice coupe but only one side . These things are so brittle if you sneeze near them they will fall apart! The two passenger sides are missing the tiny tab that goes under the upper trim but I should be able to repair that . I will use one of the two right hand sides and the good driver side ,I willnonly get one shot at it so I have to get it right the first time. If I make it work ,the new fiberglass ones will look just like the original but should never break!

If you ever think you're in control, its just an illusion...

You've lost control bro. I think you might be beyond help.

When you punch it, the rod makes the trans downshift- otherwise it has disappointing acceleration. This is what mine looks like: https://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-351w-fmx-transmission-kickdown-rod

Welcome to the forum, cool car. I'm not familiar with that product. I never had any issue with the stock parts. Even if you didn't have a kickdown rod, the fmx is made to downshift manually.

I got the whole motor back ,heads and all ,Nick just dropped it off . Its a 4 V 351 windsor ,standard bore from a 69 grande . I had been saving this one for about 15 years and I don't know why I let it go in the first place! Now to get the stroker kit ordered . photo hosting sites

Got my 351 back ,the guy decided to go a different route, my nephew kinda helped there a bit .

Ok ,I was all set to build a 302 stroker and then...a buddy gave me a new in the box victor jr. ,a never used Mallory unilite for a 351 windsor ,and a true roller gear set ,i have a crane fire ball solid lifter ,pretty radical cam ,. I bought in about 1983 for a race truck i was building but never used . Like an idiot I recently sold my standard bore 351 w ,my nephew contacted the guy I sold it to and surprise I got it back ! Now the plan is a stroker kit and aluminum heads and build a nasty stroker 351 for my truck . Now if I can talk the guy into selling back my Art Car C4 also fully Kitted with stall converter I will be set!

There are pictures and videos of it on my Instagram. Here is a good one you can pause the video when it comes up. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DGDhVN-xx-e/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== It seems very durable. Expect it to last a long time. I got the 3 pack of silver. it was nice having different tip sizes. I found a key trick was to get the tip saturated and let it flow instead of "writing it on" let the paint flow on.

I used some paint markers on mine that flow really well and look close to the original coating. They are Big Thumb brand Chrome Markers.

I ended up going with AN connections from my fuel pump to the carburetor, and they don't require any sealant. I'm not sure I have any oil lines, and my radiator just has the inlet and outlet ports, which are clamped.

Got you. Same problem different product

I am ashamed that I failed to mention that this picture also shows Jim's quarter panels and hockey sticks too! Absolutely excellent pieces!

I've got a set I use I use when traveling and staying at a hotel.

That's probably the closest to the original look. My only complaint is that the cable swage fittings are huge compared to the originals- probably twice the size. Does the one at the hood pin beat-up the hood paint? Is there some trick to arranging them so that doesn't happen?

Well, that's definitely a option.

Almost $1000. On the nose ,it was 3 weeks on back order ,that is only a roll of 2oz mat and a 5 gallon bucket of black tooling gel coat . I have a couple of small items to catch up on then I can start on panels

Dakota just ordered. looks like I might have to hack the harness unless I can find something that can adapt.

Oh I doubt it. Its a very specific plug just used to mate to the flex circuit. That would be a weird critter.

Hey everyone, I have a question on PS I hope someone can answer. I have a 69 Mach 1 with a 351W. I have put on a new (stock) PS pump, control valve, and slave cylinder. With car running and at a stand still, when I turn the car right, all is good, when I turn left, the front end shutters. Definitely a hydraulic issue. Because it works well when I turn right, would you assume a control valve issue, or have any of you had issues with stock PS pumps not good enough? Thanks for any input

Update - Went for two long drives yesterday using the Stant 10810 Vented cap, and it seems to be venting properly. I have a updated pop-open cap, that allows for that cap, and one of Doug's MacMillin's modified fill neck on the way.

Don’t have windlace, that part has metal inside, I can’t print that piece. Will do Mike.

@smh00n - I'll check into that TRL valve. Several people I know use the TVP valve due to it closing off after the pressure goes down, and so I don't get any gas smell in the garage. (roll over and fuel pump cut off switch is something I do need to add. ) Where did you plum your vent out let on the rear of car? I followed Kellys lead on my install: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/how-would-you-go-about-venting-the-gas-tank.631078/ I did talk to Tanks Inc Tech support. They said the vent on the tank vent in both directions. They also said no loop in the line. I removed the flip top cap, and placed a OEM vented cap on the car yesterday. I plan to drive the car and see if that makes a difference. Now that the car is dialed in, my drives are longer, maybe a hour long, and Iam starting with a full tank. Prior to this, I was not going far, maybe 20 min drive to a car show, and had no issues. good info here: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/gas-cap-venting.1198225/#replies -Mark

SPI! Incredible stuff.

Mine doesn't like "The old car smell"

No worries, buddy. Whenever you can is cool. Hope you get better soon

Already won a few top 25/Sponsor awards at some car shows. Follow my instagram if you like looking at cool cars. Here is a quick 2024 progress recap video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DEGF8ByyzxQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== First car show: https://www.instagram.com/reel/DGvjYh9RX6L/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I've used the stick-on sheets on the exterior floor near the toe board and above the mufflers. You stainless tubes are way too pretty to cover up.

Whatever you choose, be sure you've got it properly vented at the end of the day. Believe it or not, I ruined a brand new tank when I was restoring my car. I had some heavy-duty plastic, like two Zip-Lock freezer bags, securely sealing the filler neck while I worked on the body and got it ready for a proper cap. I started the engine one day and the vacuum created by the fuel pump collapsed the tank. True story, I've still got the otherwise "good" tank - if I could post a picture I would :) I understand wanting to use the one your family got but it seems like a lot of effort compared to getting one of the many good-looking OEM styles available.

Spindles with the caliper brackets attached.

Yep. Mine does.

I thought the lip on the gas tank neck had a dimple where the cap goes on that allowed it to breath. Or am I thing of the 70 Chevelle I was working on

Took it for a drive Sunday, then dropped it off the alignment shop that @TexasEdused. The shop just sent me this..and want to add shims. Not sure how he accounted for the +3 or what baseline he is using, I'll know more in the morning This kit comes with +3 caster already, and Shawn at SOT recommend the following: Street Specs: Caster: +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: 0 to -.5° Toe: 1/8″ in Street Performance Specs Caster: +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: -.5° to -1.5° Toe: 1/8″ in

Welcome,,,, great looking ride.. I would NOT switch to electronic ignition… you run the risk of creating new issues. I agree on shop manuals. another suggestion is check in you area for a vocational school that teaches automotive they might have evening classes…..also check fora mustang club in your area. you will likely find members that like to helps andshow you tips and tricks… many older guys like myself like to help. great looking ride… research before spending money best of luck…. Sam

Looks like you remembered how to post pics. I think you'll be fine with it the way it is.

I've used Wesco on several builds. Wonderful customer service. If you do the three point, order the long sash. https://www.wescoperformance.com/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html

A lot of these are for 69/70: https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/

Can you give me sometime to find them? They were not where I thought I put them. I think I need to stop working on my 1970 Grande and organize my shop.

Nickle dime but you asked. Rear main seal seems to be a re-occurring problem. Bring motor to TDC when installing fuel pump. Makes it a little easier. Check for clearance at the timing cover internals and timing chain. May need to Dremel trim a bit at the top. Check that the oil pump pick up is deep enough for the pan your using. If using a windage tray ? Check that the dip stick will penetrate that tray. Double check head oil drainage and maybe open the rear hole a bit. Intake manifold heat shield is in place. I left my heat cross over open, intake manifold, some prefer them closed. Test fit the intake manifold with gaskets and bolts before gooping everything up. Machined heads and block surfaces sometimes makes for a mismatch. Just heard about this one; check the water pump for an impeller blade. I also silicone seal the paper gasket at the back plate. Cheap insurance. Brian

That the other thing I wanted a nice looking exhaust system and now I want to cover it.... my magnaflow mufflers are suppose to look nice but no clean up was done after they were welded up... I'm only worried about the x-pipe area and after the mufflers. Maybe I can just cover those areas up and install whatever you used for the mufflers Bob. Next time you come over check it out and give me your expert advice