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I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light. For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time. It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings. It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive. This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is. In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long. I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless

I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car. Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around. If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes. Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.

I had both the main dash and the driver side panels finished and painted in body color. I just put it together. I have the VHX silver face gauges, with blue backlight. It should be a great look when installed.

I use peel n seal from Lowes. Same stuff as dynamat- it's just a little thinner and like 20% of the price of dynamat or fatmat. You could always double or triple the layers if you really wanted to. Rubbery/tar like adhesive and aluminum skin. Can't rust, wont come off easily, its a water tight seal, and really works. Watch these vid for info for what I did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7xi6lAeIog&t=114s Will do inside of door skins when the time comes. Roof is also done.

Here is another great site. https://www.mustangtek.com/

I just skimmed through the web page. What a great resource! Thank you for posting it. I have save it for future reference.

Finally, success. The Scott Drake doorhandles were supplied with the correct actuators. I swapped them to my black doorhandles. Picture below, of the correct, actuators, and the doorhandles.

Mine had the black face ,i bought it new . Mine was also on a shaker hood ,i will have to see if i can find a pic of the car ,it was a 69 Mach1 ,spring time yellow black out hood and black and gold side stripes ,and i could kick my self for ever selling it!

Got my power amp, subwoofer, and PWM fan controller final mounting and wiring done today.

Used Dynamat on my 65 El Camino. Cut foot squares. Placed one inside the doors. One on either side of the roof. Then all accross the firewall until under the seat. Big difference. Now I hear the other creaks and rattles better ….

I did construction at that prison for a couple of years ,i hated that drive out there ,could have been worse though i guess ,i could have been a resident !

Also got my passenger side dash panel attached, final item was to install the screws to attach the panel to the map light assembly. Used 1-1/2" #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws with #6 SS washers, so it would not damage the paint. Came out good. Installed my "Mustang" emblem on the dash.

Actually my 2014 Challenger got 8 years on its factory battery ,but it croaked just a few months after i bought the car ,it survived the previous owner

Wow! The best until today I'd heard of was my neighbor who got 12 years out of his OE on his Toyota pickup.

I had an Optima yellow top last for 10 years, it was on a trickle charger when the car was in the garage.

I had a Nascar select by interstate in my 78 ford pickup got 9 years out of it and i was very happy with that ,most batteries today if you get 4 years you are lucky

That looks like a '69 bracket in your picture. The '70 version of that bracket is in the diagram below, with my pencil pointing at it. They serve the same purpose, which is to tie the forward facing part of the under column bracket to the clutch/brake pedal support bracket. This is only on the drivers side of the column. The diagram is from the Orange "Chassis" Assembly Manual. The '69 column also has an upper column bracket. The '70 column doesn't have that, instead uses threaded bosses on the column that attach the column to the lower column support. For some reason, on the '70, Ford decided to change the design to anchor the column differently. In the assembly drawings, the '70 small bracket (3B139) has a small diamond next to it, which means that it had to be installed per some specific instructions to meet government safety standards. This is because it is tied into the function of the collapsing steering column, which has to be anchored inside the car to prevent rearward movement into the passenger compartment. This started in 1968, which also delivered such goodies as padded dashes, shoulder belts, padded steering wheel centers, side marker lights, etc, etc... Anyway, the 2 pictures you posted yesterday are the '70 bracket.

Got the Fox Body door locks, and they are great OEM quality parts. Just had to install the lock rod retainer on the other side of the lever, and they went right in. The new style plastic retainers are really heavy duty, more so than the original plastic insert with the little metal clips. Tip is to install that on door lock before putting the lock in the car. Less busted knuckles that way....

Well that is another bracket that I have and figured that was where to place it. I am not sure what it does either.

Used #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal screws 1-1/2" long, with #6 SS washers. From local ACE Hardware.

A lot of these are for 69/70: https://anghelrestorations.com/mustang-factoids/

Oh, that’s very interesting with your rev limiter, good job troubleshooting that

I finally went with Eaton Spring (the old Detroit Spring) and used 5 leaf springs on my '68. They have the original spring patterns from Ford, and reproduce them with high quality steel. I used the part number for the GT suspension. The car is stiff, with a firm ride, but no bouncing. I have Bilsteins. Did the same on my '70 convertible. One other possibility is that your driveshaft is binding. I had this happen years ago, because I measured my driveshaft length when the car was up in the air. Big mistake. I installed the driveshaft when the car was in the air, and it seemed to fit fine. But the car did ride and handle funny. I found this out later when my rear universal joint failed.....

Definitely interested in these!

Thank you. No heat yet. I am planning a 4-post lift first. Here is a pic from the outside.

Love that look. I did the door inserts in the same silver as my gauge bezels.

I just reinstalled mine for about the 50th time. The screw holes on the clock bezel on mine are not countersunk, they are flat.

something kinda like this?

Thanks for the info. I have found another manufacturer set of visors, and will try them. I am not thrilled about taking off my visor brackets and header piece after I spent a couple hours getting it perfectly aligned. Ugh... I will post some info on how it works out.... Vic

https://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=13701 Here's a link to the host hotel booking page. The official Bash is Saturday October 5th, but guys start showing up Thursday afternoon to catch up with friends. There will be updates on the MustangSteve site up until the event.

Pretty sure that was Zray on VMF. After a few overnight hotel stays with your Mustang parked in the lot, your level of anxiety drops considerably.

Next step here is to take the door, lock out, and somehow painted, or coat it back. Actually have a set of door lock cylinders from late 1980s Mustang, that are black from the factory, I’m gonna try to install those. Not sure if they fit.

Since the Bash began everyone parks at the host hotel, and hotels along the way. I haven't heard of one case of theft or vandalism.

Looking good!

More progress. It looks like they are getting close to paint.

Thanks! I'm 40 but if clean shaven still get carded haha. I borrowed the assembly table from a friend. It was great and awful all at once. The thing is just too damn high. I spent hours and hours balancing on that thing and its a miracle I never fell off. The TV is great its a 70". Ive got it wired to a laptop and to a 14 speaker stereo system in the shop. Its LOUD but also amazing to have Topgear/Grand Tour or any research i need to do. I've watched many many peterson restoration videos on it while im working on whatever the video is showing and it really helps to be able to see everything in detail from 15-20 feet away for sure.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have used fat Matt, I believe Mike I got some from you a couple years ago. I’ve also used some duct insulation from Lowe’s, that has a foil cover. I used it on my other car. I found some dyna mat on sale the other day on Amazon, so I bought a box of it. It’s pretty easy to use, but once it solidifies, it’s hard as hell to get off. I agree. Was wondering if there was any kind of foam or other insulation you could put inside your backseats to quiet it down from there. Any suggestions would be appreciated

Thanks, I see that Siless is made of butyl, so that explains that. This has a very detailed (and very very long explanation) of how ResoNix insulates a car: https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/sound-deadening-reference-information/ This is a short and incomplete version of how they insulate a door: ResoNix CLD (Constrained Layer Dampener) is butyl and aluminum, it goes on the door skin, then ResoNix Guardian is placed on top of that for sound deadening. It is comprised of several components, including a Hydrophobic Acoustical Polyester Cloth Facing, a 1″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, a 1/8″ thick 1lb Mass Loaded Vinyl Layer, another 1/4″ thick Hydrophobic Melamine foam layer, and a peel-and-stick acrylic-based adhesive backing. Then on the door panel area gets CLD again, and ResoNix Fibermat 25/45 (25mm or 45mm). It is hydrophobic and mold/mildew resistant. 25mm=0.98" compressible down to .158". I'm not sure how this would work on one of our cars, as the CLD is 0.158" thick, as is the Fibermat, for a total of 0.316". But they have a ton of products and I got tired of trying to decipher how this is done. By the time I need to do it they will have improved the products and changed everything anyway.

I used a dynamat knockoff that has a soft rubbery material that does not absorb water. I used two layers in most areas, cuz more is better right? Including the one piece seat riser with center console. I used one layer on the inner door skins over the factory sound deadening material. So far (45,000 miles) it has remained in place. The carpet I used was the thicker ACC with the matting. I did have to trim the lower edges of the console to fit the seat riser hump since my console was for a non convertible.

Mike, lesson learned from my '68 Mustang build. For that little piece of rubber hose that goes from the tank sender to your hard fuel lines, get the "fuel injection hose" from your local auto parts store. The old school rubber fuel line will disintegrate over time from modern gas that has ethanol in it. I found out the hard way when I found a puddle of gas under my '68 coupe. I also wound up with rubber particles stuck in my fuel filter.... If you go to Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone, ask for the "R9" fuel hose instead of the "R6" (or "R7") fuel hose. It is more expensive, but you won't need a whole lot. Also use this for the soft line from your fuel pump to the carb. "R9" is the fuel line that meets the SAE 30R9 standard. The "R6" meets the older SAE 30R6 standard, as does the "R7" (SAE 30R7) If you are running a return line, I ran mine right next to my main fuel line. I purchased two 3/8" SS fuel lines from NPD and Mike from Latoracing (forum member) was doing some other work on my car and did a masterful job of running the fuel lines. I will post some pics here shortly.

Unless you found them, moved them, then forgot where you put them...then they wouldn't be in the last place you looked, they would be in the new place you put them.

He is obviously working with a Skeleton crew at the shop.......

No, it will most likely be at a buddy's place above Hart Park and the Kern River. He has a nice place with some acreage and facilities. We usually hold it at local parks, but Bakersfield has smaller neighborhood parks that the needed facilities. The few larger parks require big fees which we aren't set up to cover.

Put the Mustang up on jack stands so I can get under it & start running the fuel lines.

Welcome and good luck. This is why I have been focused on my body and paint now and my new engine block is sitting untouched. Leery of building something that could sit too long.

I used just the tiniest bit of AGS Brake Lube. I didn't want them to flop around, but they seem to stay in position. Time will tell if it was a poor decision.

Exhaust finished. Spent a day re welding the pipes into the existing system. As the FPA are long tube it was a matter of cutting off the down pipes, shortening the S bends and welding. I will be glad once I have a lift, crawling under cars trying to deduce angles to make cuts is hard. I also bought better lap clamps for the joins. If y'all are not using these already go and buy them now from Summit. 11 bucks each, so easy to use and clamps well. These cost at least 40 bucks each over here so we are getting ripped. Pretty happy with the result - the headers just come under the rails and sit nice and high. I went through and re-did the rear muffler mounts so they sit higher as well. The sound to me seems different inside (although, I also fitted sound mat under the rear seat to try to kill some drone). NO CHUFFING which makes the darn cost worth it. The only beef I have is the clutch cable is too close to one pipe. I had some left over header wrap so I wrapped both pipes all the way up to near the curve near the port, and also wrapped the clutch cable too. At $146US + shipping and taxes, no way I am melting that bad boy intentionally. The positive is they are further away from the speedo cable and rail. On the other side, the starter is touching the pipe so I may have to see if I can rotate it a bolt hole to clear The service FPA gave was outstanding. He was super helpful, did what he said and most of all the headers fit the heads and the car and I hope not to ever pull them off. Today Fedex delivered me a new speedo cable and axles seals from Rock Auto. It's sad when I can get all this stuff delivered to my door cheaper than I can buy one speedo cable here. The no-name cable came without the rubber grommet and o'rings, but for 11 bucks I ought to just shut up. EDIT; I will not be shut up. The end to the speedo head is a natch too long and it won't clip on. I should have bought the 17 dollar cable not the 11 dollar one. And I have a spare, as I bought two of them.

More progress pictures. You can follow me on instagram for mor pictures at https://instagram.com/red69mustang?igshid=NzZlODBkYWE4Ng== or @red69mustang

We had to go into the food court to frame a couple of walls at lunch time ,about 100 convicts in there at the time ,they told us before entering if any thing happens stand still and the guards would intervene. ,my tool bag weighed about 75 pounds with tools and a pouch full of screws and a drill .of course one of the cons grabbed my drill and pointed it at me like it was a gun ...i was thinking i was going to have to go Chuck Norris on his ass when a voice inside my head said" BUT YOU DONT KNOW KARATE"! standing there like a deer in the headlights the guard slapped him in an arm lock and i grabbed my drill and boogied it out of there but, that was only the first time i had an interaction with one of the cons !