Leaderboard

I have had this 36 grill for a long time ,every time I walk by it I think I should do somthing with it. The main shell is actually pretty straight but it sat on the ground so long it rusted the bottom ,it needs some grill bars replaced and just happens I make them . I trimmed the bottom off the really bad side ,made a paper template off a good grill I have and hammered out the piece got the new piece welded in am I am real happy with the turn out. I have to make two more pieces to finish out the nose and a patch for the other side ,it will make a great wall decoration when I am finished. upload images

If you ever think you're in control, its just an illusion...

You've lost control bro. I think you might be beyond help.

Looks like I was able to save one more passenger side running board , out of the 6 I just picked up it is the only one savable .both the passenger side and driver side had stacks up from the bottom at one time ,I had to hole saw them out and hole saw a junk board that was good in that spot . Fixing somthing inside the ribs isn't easy because the taper as they go forward . Not real pretty right now but it will blast out. I have enough boards ,minus a driver side for all three of my trucks ,but I will find another driver side some where .

Definitely, I wish I had talent like that.

I have to bump up a couple of low spots and tap down a couple of high spots . This came out good for banging a piece of 18 gauge over a stack of cardboard . It was hard to form that bull nose !

You might want to look at a build thread. @BuckeyeDemon has one here that is about as detailed as any . If you go over to the vintage-mustang.com and look for my build thread (user name kblagron), I cover it in a good bit of detail as well for a 1970 with fold down seats.

You weld the patch completely shut like you would any other patch panel then grind it smooth. Apply body filler and sand finish like any other patch panel. The only way moisture could get under it is if the filler cracks but if done correctly that is highly unlikely.

Nothing wrong with lead if you are experienced with it because it is very easy to warp the surrounding area of the roof. Most people now are welding a piece of sheet metal over it and then body filler over the weld patch.

You will not regret this purchase! I have a set in my Boss 302 and they are fantastic!

Welcome to the forum. I recommend doing as little as possible to get it running while your dad is still around. I have had a 750, 680, and currently a 600 cfm Summit M2008 carb on my stroked 393 with AFR 185 heads. The 600 is plenty of carb, and it has never run better than right now. I have a small 268 hydraulic flat tappit cam, and still had to fly cut the pistons to clear the 2.10 valves. Mach1 Driver is correct about the 2v (H code) and 4v (M code) having different compression ratios, the M code 4v had 10.7:1 I believe, and 290hp, which ain't bad. Just remember when you change one thing on these cars, it affects three others, which you have to address. Good luck on getting her back to burning rubber.

Yep. Mine does.

I thought the lip on the gas tank neck had a dimple where the cap goes on that allowed it to breath. Or am I thing of the 70 Chevelle I was working on

Did you already remove the panels without measuring first? I have seen several posts with the measurements you are needing on Vintage Mustang Forums. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/forums/

Update: In early February I took my spindles to a friend's who has a bridgeport. We had to drill & tap the 3 holes bigger on the spindle face for the Wilwood caliper brackets. Mission accomplished. I've been waiting for the weather to get better to clean and paint them. Today after work I was able to clean, strip, prime & paint. They're sitting in the garage curing. I may get some pics this weekend. 2 Saturdays ago I stopped by the machine shop and checked on my block. It got a .030 overbore which I expected. He's still working on it and the crank. I'll probably check in on it by the end of the week. Have been buying other needed parts so that's all the progress lately.

FYI, the Bauer surfacer was on closeout, and my local store doesn't stock the 4" diameter drums anymore. They have switched to 4-1/2" for their Hercules brand, which won't fit the Bauer. So you may have trouble getting the drums in the future.

Cuts a spot weld in just a couple of seconds

Yep and pep ! I have the course grit on it now to get the scale off ,not sure the grit but it doesn't leave heavy scratches, I also have two more finer grit wheels , 250 and 180 I think . That belt sander is the best harbor freight tool I have bought yet ,just buy the 3M belts for it

That small belt sander doesn't get used by me a lot, but when you need it it's priceless. Very useful in hard to get to spots.

Mine are installed and look great. I found paint prep was really important so be thorough there. Keep them separated to avoid excessive overspray.

My body shop used All Metal filler. It's like a putty but with a metallic texture and is close to lead.

Nice work Jim.

Its cool to watch an artisan at work.

The best place to start would probably be a set of Shop Manuals and (Osborne) Assembly Manuals. There is no interior assembly manual for 1969 but the 1970 is very close. https://www.npdlink.com/search/products?search_terms=interior%2BAssembly%2Bmanual&top_parent=200001&year=1970

I don't look in this area of the forum often enough. Looks like you know what your doing and it's looking great! It's also nice to see another 69 coupe rebuild. Sometimes I think I'm the only one then I come here

You can take this article for what it's worth. It's at least 25 years old and was in Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine.

So I've got the cam installed, everything else ready to go on, ended up getting hooker comp long tubes, and I'm on the fence about getting aluminum heads for it before I gasket/bolt everything up. If I were to get AFRs with correct springs and rockers, any idea how much gain would they see over the stock C9OE heads,with this cam?

Welcome,,,, great looking ride.. I would NOT switch to electronic ignition… you run the risk of creating new issues. I agree on shop manuals. another suggestion is check in you area for a vocational school that teaches automotive they might have evening classes…..also check fora mustang club in your area. you will likely find members that like to helps andshow you tips and tricks… many older guys like myself like to help. great looking ride… research before spending money best of luck…. Sam

Looks like you remembered how to post pics. I think you'll be fine with it the way it is.

Wow, i had this exact question in my head and haven't gotten around to doing any research yet. Glad it was answered for you and also me! I haven't been here for a while and I've missed a lot

I've used Wesco on several builds. Wonderful customer service. If you do the three point, order the long sash. https://www.wescoperformance.com/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html

I have been looking for a shaker assembly for my 2005 Gt for a couple of years now. Every one I find is either for the wrong year or missing mounting parts. Last night I spotted one on market place and contacted they guy ,he had just posted it ! Went and looked at it this morning and bought it. Complete assembly with mounting ,all the drain hoses and all the mounting brackets ,also had the full factory air cleaner assembly he threw in . He also had the hood with all the trim ring . I can't decide what car to put it on ,the red Gt I would have to paint the new hood and no guarantee it would match ,or the black Gt that I am getting ready to paint so I would have no problem with paint matching .got it all for 800 ,the shaker part is quite a bit mor than 800 but I can never find them in stock ,the hood already cut out is also a big plus !

Our old girls will never be a 1000 hp ZR1, but you can definitely pep them up and have fun doing it, so here are my two cents. So if you are planning on bumping it to 392 in the future it must be a 351w. Is it a 2V or 4V? The 4Vs have higher compression. Keep in mind that a 351w in a 69 doesn't have a lot of hood clearance when planning for a intake and air cleaner. The stock manifold in either 2v or 4v is only 3" tall. If you don't mind drop down air cleaners its not a big issue. The carb would pencil out at 550, but 650 won't kill it. I like the Summit M2008 series because they fixed all the problems of a Holley and they were actually designed by them. AFR has been owned by an investment firm for a few years now and I haven't heard how that has affected the products, but TF is still good as far as I know, and new aluminum heads will definitely wake it up. If you go with roller rockers be sure to get a high quality set. When one of those comes apart it dumps a lot of parts in the engine. I know most people go with headers, but tests show that they really don't help all that much and are not as quiet as cast iron manifolds. IMO, A big lumpy cam, headers and loud mufflers will make you smile only if you drive it for short distances and don't plan on talking or listening to tunes while doing it. It depends on how you are going to drive it. Back in the day, most muscle cars had a nice rumble, but still allowed conversation. If you don't mind changing points occasionally, you don't have to go with an electronic ignition. They raced these things with points, and nothing electronic lasts for 60 years. Proof of this is that none of these cars have the original radios- they died long ago. The only thing an electronic ignition will do is relieve your wallet- it won't make it run better. Once you get it running again, you will want to do the Arning drop to fix the pathetic Falcon suspension in these cars. This type of suspension is designed for hydraulic shocks. Roller perches are the highest recommended upgrade. https://www.youtube.com/user/EatonDetroitSpring

My stainless strips made it in today ,I cut them for length and drilled the holes ...stainless is really fun to drill! I used just bolts through the holes for now but they will be stainless button heads. I also want stainless button head bolts for mounting the bed ,along with stainless washers ,this should look great with Gulf Stream Aqua ! upload images

Wow, that was Soooo informative. Definitely going to go this route instead. Thank you very much.

...or get a plug and cut off what you don't need. Brian

I don't drive my car much. But the 5 leaf mid-eye springs from Mustangs Plus did not settle much. At least I cannot say I ever noticed a difference. Several years ago I read an article from a spring manufacturer that mentioned properly sized springs should only settle 1/2" in their lifetime. Eyeball judging from old pictures of these cars when new, they were fairly high, so the ride height you have now is close to original. After you obtain the ride height you want maybe fabricate some bump stops to limit suspension compression so you won't have to worry the tires might rub once in a while with only 1-1/2 inches of clearance. You never know, maybe you'll hit a pot hole on the highway. If they rub hard enough the car might get out of control. Not to mention the damage to the quarter panel.

Danno yes i would like to know also Ive been told they could be for a column shift light . Do you know where the safety switch is?

Well some progress and some set backs. Ended up trying to fire it up today, after a little bit of cranking without start, spun the distributor a bit, and got it to fire up. That was a very short lived win, as within seconds of getting up to 2000rpm, the flex fan apparently grew a bit in size, hit and broke the shroud, sending shrapnel into the radiator, causing a few leaks. Shut down with less than 30 seconds running probably. Ordered new rad and electric fans, praying the cam will survive.