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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/14/2024 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Mach1 Driver

    351 Cleveland Temps?

    On page 11-05-04 of the 1969 Ford Shop Manual it states: Pressure cap all engines 12-15 psi. Running the system at a higher pressure makes water boil at a higher temperature. Even a small leak (or too low a pressure of cap) will lower the pressure and increase engine temperature. This is because it boils and can't transfer heat as efficiently with bubbles. It is counterintuitive, but the reason for a pressure cap. On the other hand, too high a pressure will stress the radiator and heater core. The standard cap sold by NPD for 1967-72 is 13 lbs. The reason I know is because I looked-up the specs last week when I had my 55 year old original copper/brass radiator rodded out. I find it amazing that the original is still serviceable after all these years. You won't get that with aluminum ;)
  2. 3 points
    aslanefe

    Bandwidth issue

    Looks like Ben made some progress; no bots lately.
  3. 2 points
    Ridge Runner

    Paint mixing cups

    It is very easy to miss a step when mixing paint ,especially if you get in a hurry or excited to finally lay down some color. I have missed a stage ,or thought i did , and set the cup aside just to make sure and mixed another batch . It would be a good idea to have a check list hanging by the mixing station so you can mark off what you added
  4. 2 points
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    I have now finished my Vintage Air install. 38 Degrees from center vents! Pictures would be nice...
  5. 2 points
    As far as I know, the valve is supported by the hoses; no hard attachments. Brand shouldn't matter if inlet and outlet diameters match to the hose; all it does is close the hot coolant to heater core when AC is on.
  6. 2 points
    DOZX

    351 Cleveland - Setting Red Line

    Stock rods are not too safe after 6. Stock rod bolts too? What valves are you running? The cam and 2v heads will probably save you getting from higher RPM anyway.
  7. 2 points
    Ridge Runner

    Body Panels made in Taiwan

    I have used a lot of after market sheet metal and i find most of it to be very good ,there is cheaper stampings that really dont fit worth a crap but parts like Dynacorn, i have had very few pieces i didnt like . I have made several 65 -68 fast back conversions and the guys always tell me their body guy is very happy with the turn out ,a couple told me the body work is pretty much the panel joints . I see people bitch and moan ...usually on face book , but its usually guys that dont have a clue what they are doing in the first place! With out these replacement panels most cars would probably not be fixable . Now you do need to do some gap work but the ford tooling panels right at the end were getting terrible. So with good original panels nearly gone i for one am very glad for the Tiawan panels
  8. 2 points
    I was actually talking about both. I believe the MC failed and pumped a bunch of fluid into the booster. This weekend I pulled them both out and reached out to the rebuilder mentioned above. Now waiting on their response. Can I also mention what a miserable job it is getting my big old body under that dash to get that booster out. Ouch! Definitely pulling the driver's seat out before putting it back in.
  9. 2 points
    Found the yellow fuse block accessory 3-input connector. It was tucked pretty far up inside the dash......needed to fish it out. Thanks much!
  10. 2 points
    Ridge Runner

    Bandwidth issue

    Maybe they are looking for moose and squirrel ?
  11. 2 points
    Midlife

    Bandwidth issue

    I can't figure out why they post here. It's in Russian; a hobby site isn't interested in what they have to say...it is simply wasted effort on their part to post.
  12. 2 points
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    This weekend I added some 351 numbers to the hood, from NPD, very nice quality, just a PITA to get centered. Also added the Procomp Hood Scoop PCE106.1007. Iam still using the bottom part of the old air cleaner, the PO hacked it up to fit the Jegs brand distributor. I added a second set of threaded inserts that line up with new Procomp scoop's holes. I still think it's too tall, but it does not bind, so I guess I'll just go with it for now. I have a Holley Sniper with a 1/4 spacer, and planning to run a Hyperspark Distributor. Hopefully the Procomp air clearer assembly will fit.
  13. 1 point
    RPM

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    38? Degrees? Holy crap, that is impressive, and outstanding! Kudos.
  14. 1 point
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    OK - here are a few things to take note of. My car was factory A/C car, so it had the vents. I did remove the lower dash vents and re-felt them. They are nice and stiff now. I hate the Vintage Air controls that came with the system. So Iam using the Dakota Digital Vintage Air controls. You can see a picture on instagram. @cruisercrap is my account. It matches well with the rest of the Dakota Digital Dash. You really need to remove the lower dash, I don't know how people claim to install it with out doing so. It did give me a chance to repaint the dash. I Scuffed and repainted with Krylon Industrial - Zoro.com (which is the consumer site of granger) has the best price $10.79 a can. Zoro part # G0742861 The install was easy, I took a few weekends, only because I rewired the dash, repainted the lower dash, ordered replacement switches, etc... It took me 3 tries to find the correct belt length!!!! Dayco 17560 worked for me. Other people used 175460. I charged it using my gauges, and estimating 1.8lbs of 134A. two 12 oz cans, and then estimated the rest using a scale. It worked ok. Then I took it to a friends shop, and used machine to evacuate - I realized I was several oz low. Using his $8K machine , we then put in the right amount of 1.8lbs. Did not even pay attention to the gauges. Works even better now. Leave your self enough slack on the ducts that attach to the middle OEM vent. I cut them a bit short, and it was a bitch getting that together!!! Last tip - Order a universal hose kit. Iam a Vintage Air dealer, and I always tell customers to do this. The reason is the hoses where a bit long, and the connectors where at the wrong angle. The A/C hoses are stiff and you really cant rotate a connector into place very easy. Being able to lay them out, mark the direction of the connectors, and have a local shop crimp the hose is worth it. I even replace one of the connectors from 90 degree angle to a 45 degree angle. I also used A/C and heater line clips from Squeeg's Hot Rob Shop. It make the install look great, no Zip ties. If I think of anything else... I'll post it here. -Mark
  15. 1 point
    RPM

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Good progress Mike.
  16. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Got the new water pump & the alternator installed. Ordered a new crankshaft pulley & spacer.
  17. 1 point
    RPM

    What primer to use to glue side glass?

    Are you talking about door glass or quarter glass, and which model Mustang do you have? I've never heard of using primer on side glass. This is the best video out there on glass: https://youtu.be/xoTKxAwmnCc?si=8XFn1fSbI_28rsF8
  18. 1 point
    BigDuke6

    Spark plug wires

    check them from end to end with a multimeter. https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/Defective-Spark-Plug-Wires.html#:~:text=Use the digital multimeter%2C set,have recommended different maximum resistances. I was having terrible engine problems that a lot of money could have been saved if I had checked each wire first. I made the wires using a universal kit and one of my crimps failed and only had a few wires connecting to the plug. One new wire and the problem was solved. So as long as you are getting good resistance from one end to the other, you are prolly just fine.
  19. 1 point
    rwcstang

    351 Cleveland Temps?

    with my 427w, my temps jump between 190-200. I have a dual contour e-fan setup and have it configured where one fan turns on at 190, second fan goes on at 200. temps you mention sounds about right for these motors. however, you can inspect and replace the following as it may help keep temps down. Inspect upper and lower radiator for swelling, if swollen replace both. How old is the coolant? I usually change this every 2-3 years Inspect water pump Check your rad cap, are you using 13lbs or 16lbs? I have 13lbs and anything higher than 15lbs can possibly over pressurize the cooling system causing overheating. Use a coolant additive, I recommend Water Wetter, VP CoolDown or my favorite Driven Racing Oil CSP coolant additive. This help keeps temps down by 5-10 degrees. Inspect your current radiator for anyleaks, there are tools you can rent to pressurize the system to see if it leaks or bleed the system of any air pockets.
  20. 1 point
    jmlay

    351 Cleveland Temps?

    I would not want to see it go up any more. 230 is the limit I see echoed most often. As long as it is not boiling over you should be ok.
  21. 1 point
    RogerC

    351 Cleveland - Setting Red Line

    Your 5K limit is sensible. If you were to rebuild and take care of the vulnerabilities it would probably be good to around 5.5K - 6K. Though the engine was designed to run at 7K in 4V form, the vulnerabilities make that risky. Rod bolts are good but the nuts are the failure point. If you're running stock valves, those are ticking time bombs. The oil system has some issues also. As D0ZX said the cam and heads are going to limit any useable power up high anyhow.
  22. 1 point
    here is a link to the gasket set: https://www.npdlink.com/product/gasket-set-heater-box/103212?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dheater%2Bdoor%2Bfoam%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969
  23. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    70 Boss 302

    I use this stuff (Sta-Lube). Be sure to use non-synthetic gear oil GL4 85/90 weight and don't forget the additive for the trac-Loc rear end. Pictures won't load sorry. Brian
  24. 1 point
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    Have not posted in a while... here is a update to the hood scoop. I ditched the bottom part of the Procomp assembly and ordered a SHAKHRAMP from Falcongt.com. I also had to use a 1 spacer on top of the Sniper, and a 1 inch Summit Carb spacer SUM-1404. For some reason I can't post photos?
  25. 1 point
    I’m out in of town right now but I can check when I get back. It was labeled for engine swaps.
  26. 1 point
    I'll answer my own question. No, you need to re-use the stainless. I have a big mess to clean up with all the gooped on sealer.
  27. 1 point
    Been there and done that more than once ,i did it with the seat in ,would not do it again!
  28. 1 point
    EastYorkStang

    Coolant recommendations

    Why not just buy a regular jug of Prestone and top it yourself with distilled water ? Cheaper that way
  29. 1 point
    EastYorkStang

    Bandwidth issue

    Still nothing. But was this ordeal cause to drive everyone away ?
  30. 1 point
    bigmal

    AC COMPRESSOR Rebuild where?

    Just in time for winter!
  31. 1 point
    Mach 1, you maybe right, I thought he was talking about the brake booster - which I highly recommend sending it in for a rebuild and not replacing. however, I've seen some rebuilders do both MC and booster so that still could be a thing. in regards to the MC, its probably cheaper to get a replacement online, like summitracing, napa, oreilly auto and getting shipped if none are local, he just needs to know his bore size and swap over the pushrod before he tosses the old MC. I do recall some stores use to sell rebuild kits for MCs back in the day, but I think its just cheaper to replace now. My other suggestion is for op try http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ and see what he recommends he knows his OE brake/steering stuff.
  32. 1 point
    Wow, that was Soooo informative. Definitely going to go this route instead. Thank you very much.
  33. 1 point
    rwcstang

    Coolant recommendations

    gonna be tough with the brand, I bought it years ago but its a 24" 2 or 3 row I believe. for now, ill just do a prestone 50/50 since its already premixed and ill add a additive to help with cooling/lubricate the water pump. my go was driven CSP, but going to try VP Racing Cool Down Additive. VMF woodchuck helped I will also add a Sacrificial anode to help with electrosys.
  34. 1 point
    I run these on my 427w, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969 I did have to use a drop bracket for the p/s setup, I highly recommend these heavy dutiy versions than the cheap ones scott drake sells as those will tear the frame eventually: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/e5h21.html?a=GoogleProductSearch&sessionthemeid=26&srsltid=AfmBOorzfz3pRboxGCNDMK_5GMyl_bgodvJtNP4k9-UsJRaI89fhn4GVMfw
  35. 1 point
    TexasEd

    Bluetooth radio only

    I have something like that. Crutchfield does not have this model anymore but they have some others. I hid it inside my dash above the old AM radio. The AM Radio is just a prop. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_104MC900B/Boss-MC900B.html I like the way it works.
  36. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Bluetooth radio only

    If you want to use the original radio and upgrade it to todays wiz-bang stuff (you can even give it voice commands), you may want to try this: https://www.tech-retro.com/aurora-design/home.html
  37. 1 point
    ThePoose

    Bluetooth radio only

    I haven't used this personally yet, but am considering it. It has pretty positive reviews around the interwebs. https://outofsightaudio.com/ There are also some dedicated bluetooth amps that can do it as well. I found the Out of Sight interesting because it's small and offers flexibility.
  38. 1 point
    RPM

    Hand held english wheel

    How deep is the throat? Yikes, that sounds like a movie title.
  39. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Visalia Car Show

    Wow, cool! The Pharoah car show? Everyone wanted to be a Pharoah... https://youtu.be/PypEDzb5bdU?si=3zl5daZ3PTiFyBmH
  40. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Nice shop and driveway....don't see any burnout marks on the driveway yet..... My buddy used a "mini-split" to cool/heat his shop that is about the same size as yours. He also has a few ceiling fans. The heat in the summer will likely be more of an issue than being cold in the winter. Bob, that fuel pump is cool, old school. I had a '64-1/2 Mustang with a "D" code 289 4 barrel years ago, and it had that style pump. I think that some of the old Ford 260 V8s used them as well. That is a solid pump.
  41. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Mike, car looks good in the shop! Do you have heat?
  42. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Vintage Air A/C duct routing

    I finally did get back there. Thanks for the hand on starting from the firewall side connections. I have them staged in an area where I can move them around, so I’ll probably put the dash in and see what happens, let the fun begin….
  43. 1 point
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    Yes - is that your kid!!! ;)
  44. 1 point
    TexasEd

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    Is this your car?
  45. 1 point
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    The new T5Z has been grinding, so I called Modern Drive Line, and they had Tremec warranty it! Only 500 miles on this T5Z. Tremec, sent me a box, and return label.. all I needed to do was remove it, and drop off at Fed-Ex.
  46. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Hey Mike, looks good. Not sure if you are planning to use any LED tail lights. I have them on both my cars, they have a built in sequential function. Not that expensive, and they look cool. Vic
  47. 1 point
    AusTex70

    1970 Mach 1 - Texas Car

    PS Mach 1 rocker installed.
  48. 1 point
    Prequel - before the rebuild. I've had this thing going on 8 years now and for the first 4 or so it sat not touched. One issue I did have was the tail lights and turn signals. For reasons that escape me, our Bureaucrats have deemed that all cars must have 2 operating stop lights at all times. We can use the red light as per original but not the system where all lights dim for the indicators. Hence, we have orange indicators that work separate to the stop lights on all cars. Even the current Mustang gets special tail lights and even mirrors specific to Australia. I know there are cars out there with the US-style lighting, but they are in breach and I don't want the Po-Lice stopping me and hassling me. The previous owner had done what is common here - converted the reverse lights into indicators by re-wiring and putting in orange bulbs. I guess y'all know that a single tiny little bulb in a big old 70 tail lights housing doesn't do much in terms of light in daylight, and having the indicators down under the bumper means the jerks following you posting influencer content on their phones can't see. A couple of near-misses when turning made me decide to upgrade the whole thing. My first effort was buying a 3-bulb conversion which I think are made by Scott Drake. Good in concept, 3 times more light than before. Still the issue of the indictors remained and I wasn't happy. I hacked the wiring so all 3 lights came on for stop and tail. (The wiring had already been hacked during the 'rebuild' so I felt guilt but only moderate). They also do not fit without trimming and coercing so I rate them 3/10. And then, when I pulled them to go to Plan B, they had started to melt the lenses; I hit the interwebs for inspiration. Some of the things being done were individual LED put on a board and wired up with resistors. Pretty much the same as the ones being offered in the US. I thought that was a good idea, as the US-supplied ones still cancelled the stop lights when indicating, giving me no benefit. Looking at the US ones, I thought I could build my own panel and have the stop, tail and indicator all in one unit. So I started looking for bright LED that could run on 12V and be suitable. I found a little joint in Tasmania, https://www.ledsales.com.au/ and he was really helpful. He had the LED I needed along with resistors, voltage reducers and other neat things I still needed to learn about. When I told him my plan was to mount 96 LED on a board, in them in series and have a third used as indicators, I think I won dumbass of the week. For those not in the know, LED need a certain amount of power to run, they have to use all the voltage supplied and they go bright and dim based on the power. Or some chat like that, it still makes my head hurt trying to understand it. Basically, every dot on this template is a solder point, and a tiny one at that. He rightly pointed out that what I proposed was a lot of soldering, a lot of resistors to run them, and a lot of work. He suggested a COB LED. COB is Chip On Board and they look like this Now armed with a New Plan, he found these which had the right light volume (LED are rated in brightness, the details escape me right now) and we figured that with the red lens of the original lens, these would produce a decent light. Moving right along, they do. I used 3 COB per light; 2 would be stop and tail, 1 would be indicator. I was hoping to use all 3 panels as tail lights but never did it. Maybe the next upgrade will see it. The beauty of LED is they go bright with the power you give them. For stop lights I give them the full 12V. For tail lights, about 9V does it. The COB is basically a single LED, so I only needed one resistor per circuit to sort it out, and not 200,000 with individual LED. I spent a lot of time working out what voltage would be the best for each circuit, which is done by the value of the resistor you use; I also used one-way resistors to stop the full power from the brake lights going to the tail light. I thought I was pretty smart on that one. One issue I had was power fluctuation. As I see the battery voltage on the Sniper dash, I had fluctuations from 11.9 to 13.9. Realising having flickering tail lights would also attract The Law, back to the LED man I went. His solution? A little chip that drops voltage down to a constant value. So I got some 12V ones and worked them into the start of the circuit. Now, regardless of the power being pumped out I would have a steady 12V to the lights. V1 saw all the resistors and constant voltage things mounted onto the lexan sheet. I don't have a shot of this but I started getting concerned that vibration might affect the soldering, and the fact the entire light needs to be disassembled for service. Enter V2 please. 10-odd bucks at the hobby electronic shop later, I had a alloy, waterproof housing. From the bottom; The 4 light circuits (Stop, tail, left and right indicator) come into the housing, and are plumbed into the constant power resistor things. These are earthed and I have put them all out to a common earth, and the reduced power travels underneath the lexan sheet to the 4 main resistors which reduce the voltage for each circuit. There are 3 rated at 10 Ohms which are the stop and 2 indicators. The single at 56 Ohms is for the tail lights. I have 3 wires coming out; remember the ability to power an LED to adjust the brightness? On the left, you can see the one-way resistor that stops the full beans from the stop lights entering the tail light circuit. With the tail lights on, it receives less power due to the higher Ohm value resistor and when you activate the brake circuit the full power hits the circuit and lights up the LED brighter. I have chopped up the rear harness even more and inserted a plug into this box. From the box another plug runs the wiring in a new harness to the lights Here you see the nearly-complete board inside the light housing (professionally marked LH you will see) with the wiring in place. Red wires are stop and tail and go to the 2 inner panels. White is the indicator and goes to the outer panel only. I was concerned about the amount of heat needed to solder the wires to the COB, so my soldering is low rent. For that reason, I didn't run the tail light wires to the outer indicator panel, but perhaps a later upgrade may see that done. I did buy 2 spares so I can test one to destruction if needed. The finished product does what I wanted; however, I didn't take into account the resistance in the wiring so the lights are not as bright as they were on the bench. Luckily, with this system I just need to unplug the alloy box, and re solder in new resistors. IMG_3455.MOV
  49. 0 points
    Her69fastback

    Paint mixing cups

    I was painting some single stage paint. First time ever thing hardened just fine. A week later same paint some hardener. Temp was with in 10 degrees I would say. Used one cup the first time. The next time grabbed a different cup. It was a 3 to 1 mix. The second time the paint didn’t get hard. You can still put your nail in the paint. It’s a week old now.
  50. 0 points
    Well, turns out both units that fit my car seem to be on the 'out of stock' and no know future availability. I've left them a message, so we'll see if there is any alternatives.


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