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Hi Brian, Did you try NPD. If all you need is the two plugs, then this kit may be overkill. PLUG AND GROMMET KIT, (44), repro, contents:377901 seat access hole and top of cowl under fender (10), 376966 front fender apron, trans crossmember (10), 377977 frame rail at sway bar (2), 378923 rear shock access hole (2), 378770 inner frame rails at transmission (2), 377949 trunk floor pan plug above frame rail, side of cowl at door hinge, LH apron behind shock tower (5), 377678 heater hose firewall for A/C cars (2), 377936 inner frame rails at radiator and center of firewall (5), 377356 rear spring front bolt access hole (2), 383181 top of cowl under fender (2), 011202 quarter panel drain (2) NPD Part Number : 011136-5K Manufacturer Reference #'s: 376970,

Yes all the time. I have seven of their CDs... Somehow I lost my original 1973 Colorized Wiring & Vacuum Diagrams, but I have a backup. The Forel manuals are good for Electrical and Vacuum details, and another CD with Parts and body illustrations, but to my knowledge, Forel does not have Engine Assembly. You have to get the shop manuals for that and other things. I have the Shop Manuals from David Graham Auto Literature. Forel also has on CD The Ford Master Parts Catalogs (MPAC), which are packed with parts and numbers by year, model, etc, but are very cumbersome to browse thru, best to use the PDF search function. Finally, there Assembly illustration manuals published by Jim Asborn. There are also helpful, but the pictures are sometimes very faint and hard to read. I prefer a digital copy so I can zoom in on sections. One more comment on Forel, years ago Forel required you to install software called PDF OwnerGuard License Manager to install the CD on you r computer. This software was always malfunctioning and preventing access to the manual. I would have to call them to get it fixed, but fortunately they did away with it a few years back. I say you can never have enough Information....:-)

I attended the Charlotte AutoFair a couple of weeks back and came across a used Edelbrock RPM Performer 2181 with the following measurements: Rear height = 4-7/8 inches (4.875) and Front height = 3-5/8 inches (3.625). It was not in the best condition with several stripped threads so I passed. Thanks for all of your detailed work, Mach1 Driver. Using the Weiand looks more promising now than it did in the beginning. I've got a ways to go before I drop the motor back in so I won't be able to confirm the actual clearances for a while.

Thanks for the answers!

What a yo-yo I am. I loosened and removed the hex head cap screws that allow the electric motor to be clocked into a different position about the mounting plate. I should have been loosening the three bolts that connect the mounting plate (and thus the electric motor) to the bell housing. The hole locations in the photo above lead me to realizing my mistake. The starter is now out of the car. Thanks to the guy who posted the photo.

try using firefox or different browser, for some reason on chrome it requires to sign-in or it won't show. its on my gdrive and that link is for public view (go figure) lol. The fluid was more powder like, like a metallic flake paint, I hovered a magnet over the stream would move slightly. in regards to the rebound shock part, I let shaun know and he responded back: I haven't had a need to modify the shocks. There won't be an enormous amount of droop travel, it isn't really required unless you are picking up inside rear wheel in turns (won't happen) or are off roading it (not going to happen hopefully). again, I'm not going modify anything with out his Shaun's guidance/approval, but it was just a concern from the shop Tech as I wanted transparency on the install. As for the rear end gear whine Shaun followed up with me yesterday and spoke with his Strange Engineering rep: PRF130 WITH TRUTRAC DID HE DO THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE ? SEE THE NOTES IN THE PDF ATTACHED THEY ARE TIGHT AND WILL MAKE NOISE FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE USE 85-140 NON SYNTHETIC OIL IF STILL ISSUES HE WILL HAVE TO SEND IT IN FOR INSPECTION PLEASE ADVISE I've already responded back with answers and follow up questions: 200 miles in breakin procedure, but stopped due to the gear whine and didn't want to void warranty. First used Master Pro 85w-140 conventional gear oil changed fluids to Lucas 85w-140 Conventional gear oil What Brand Gear am I using? Some Brands tend to have gear whine (Im running on 3:50's) In regards to a "tight fit" (which will make noise), is there a way to know what the tolerances are for this type of setup? i.e backlash set up..etc. Ill take pics of the stance on where it sits now haven't had the time due to work.

Recap, I have a bone stock 351w that is a 2v. Curiosity got the better of me so I finally pulled my carb and distributor to measure my intake manifold on the car. As stangs-R-me speculated, the 2V is the same height as the 4V, or 3.00". Using playdoh on the stock air cleaner in four positions, it is 2.016" to the hood at the closest position. This is with the 1.025" high aluminum spacer that the PCV connects to. The Weiand is 4.715 tall so even with a 1" spacer and stock air cleaner my math says it should clear the hood by 0.300. Double check please. Edit: If you have a Mach1 hood scoop (not shaker), the three bolts on each side need shortening to the nut. The following numbers are with the 1" PCV spacer. The front and rear bolts appear to be outboard of the raised ring on the filter lid where the air filter contacts. However, the center nuts are in the way. You could remove them entirely or maybe shorten the height of the nuts. It is difficult to get a good number with playdoh but I calculate clearance to the nut at 0.243 to 0.055 using the Weiand Stealth manifold. With the Edelbrock 7181 it is even worse with clearance to the nut of 0.158 or actual interference of 0.030. The Edelbrock 2181 Performer would have at least 0.700 clearance to the nut.