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I believe it is like an anodized finished

Nagging wife or girl friend also helps drown all squeaks and rattles ...although the stress level is probably just as high as the squeak and rattle !

Why not use Dyna mat or something similar ?

The stories make it more interesting. Besides I'm more then 30 feet away. Looks great !

There's no real connector for the pink resistor wire by itself. You'll have to dice and splice as needed. I'm the one who claims silver solder would work, as it was told to me by a salesman who specializes in various resistor wires. I have no experience with silver soldering.

Be advised that the resistor wire is made of a material that is un-solderable. The only way to connect to it is a crimp type connection. One person suggested using silver solder, but I've seen no confirmation that will work. The best way is to remove the terminal from the plug and "daisy-chain" the new wire together with the other wire into the correct terminal and put it back into the plug. Try Randy at http://midlifeharness.com/ for the proper connector.

The advice I am trying to offer is don’t cut any wires. Mach 1 driver is also giving good advice. you can use the “I” terminal on the solenoid for the choke.

Ivo, this is the suicide hot line calling... can I talk you down from the roof? Please step away from the edge! First, why do you want to put a GM distributor on a Ford? You profess that "I'm completely new to the electrical stuff". The new distributor and coil won't make any noticeable difference. It won't make your car run better, and frankly is probably a waste of time, money and effort. The stock OEM system was used in racing these cars back in the day, and the new parts will not improve on that. I'm an electrical engineer and know from a lifetime of experience that every step away from stock is a step in the direction of generic and unproven parts (in your application) that will lead to unintended consequences. The HEI was developed in 1974 by GM because of mandated emission policies. A 69 does not have those issues. It is true that the HEI is able to deliver more spark thanks to the electronic ignition-control module, but so what? It simply isn't needed. Send the stock distributor out to be re-curved if needed, and learn how the weights, vacuum advance, and timing affect engine performance. This can make a huge difference. Second, since you are "completely new to the electrical stuff", don't change to a one wire alternator. The alternator of choice for a true upgrade to these cars is a 3G. That's the third generation of Ford alternators, and it will charge at a lower RPM. I understand that ONE wire sounds easier to install, but it is not an improvement. Check PA Performance alternators, and keep in mind that more amperage is not necessarily better. If you go over 95 amps it will take more power to turn the alternator- more power than a single v-belt can apply. You will need to go to a dual v-belt system, or a serpentine system. The serpentine will require dumping the old fan, using electric fans, and changing all the pulleys and mounting brackets on the front of the engine. The electric fans drag a ton of power and require an even bigger alternator. This increases cost and is unneeded if you go with a moderate but true upgrade of only 95 amps, which is probably 3 times more than the stock alternator. You would be surprised how many people complain about issues with their aftermarket serpentine belt system. Yes I know that some people will say that they use a single v-belt, but PA Performance deals with the complaints on a daily basis, and insist that it should not be done. Just my unsolicited two cents.

I like mine, I'm seriously surprised that most can hear them I don't. Shoot if the exhaust isn't load enough then turn up the tunes. :)

I bought and installed one in my '69 with factory A/C in 2011 and here is the write up I did on it back then ... - New Deluxe Molded Firewall Insulation Pad from Quiet Ride Solutions (MUST6970-CM1). After 7 weeks on back order with CJ Pony, I finally called the supplier (Scott Drake) direct, and their CS said they expected them in any day but had nothing firm. Not liking this answer, I searched other vendors, found one IN STOCK at Mustangs Unlimited, and canceled my BO w/ CJ. Paid $31 more for it but had gotten $20 / per $100 in gift cards from CJ (that I've since spent), so it was almost a wash. Anyway, it is a high-quality part ... better than the disintegrating OEM one I took out ... and fit nicely. All the needed holes were there, and I was able to re-use all my original hardware. Doug

I envy you guys who have the talent to do the hood black out on these 69 Mach 1s. I didn't think I had the skill or patience to do it correctly, so I just painted the entire hood. Ya, I pussed out.