Leaderboard

i fix the dome light turned out fuse holder is old and i remember checking things out the other day pushing the fuse in. bent prongs in now they are working. Mach1 driver thanks for your help...i was pretty much lost. thanks to all of you!!

OK Mach 1 driver.....you are a pretty awesome contact. You seem to have a long history helping people. GRACIAS Amigo. Well here's an update got tired of dis-assemble re-assemble so just did a hillbilly bench tester. I must have ever so slightly bent the needles so everything looks good. What a job!! now I have to start another thread some reason dome lights died so have to trouble shoot those. i decided to clean wiring up on the car and still have a few things but this was a nightmare. For sure you have to watch post touching body when doing new flex board.

There are two versions of the flex circuit: one is for a non-tach car, and another is or a car with a tachometer. Can I assume that since you mention "voltmeter" you really mean ammeter? Or perhaps your ammeter has been converted to a voltmeter? If not done properly that could be a source of trouble also. I suggest you see my post in the "How tos" section on this forum: "Fixing the Instrument Panel" Of special interest to you would be the picture on page 2- read notes #6 and #7. Also see Page 3 "Gauge posts shorting to metal housing". Here is an excerpt from that: GAUGE POSTS SHORTING TO METAL HOUSING This is a VERY frequent problem. The gauge posts must not come in contact with the metal housings. Any time the gauges have been moved or the flex circuit reattached, or in any way taken apart, you definitely need to check for a short circuit. If even one of the gauge posts touches the metal housing, it will create a short, the voltage will drop, nothing will work, and the gauge voltage regulator could be damaged. It is fortunate that the 69/70s have a 10 ohm resistor wire in front of the regulator, so it may survive the short. Clamp one ohmmeter lead to the center metal housing, and clamp the other, in turn, to each temp and fuel gauge post. You must have infinite ohms (no conductivity), if not you need to reposition the gauge(s) so they don’t touch the edge of the holes. Do the same for the oil gauge, connecting one lead to the left housing and the other to each gauge post in turn. This should get you started, but it sounds like you may have a couple of problems. Please let us know what you find- its nice to have closure on the problem.

New din tool arrived today. Mush heavier. inserted tool. Nothing… I have given up. Lol may just have aftermarket instslled thanks.. sam