Leaderboard

update, took clock apart, after playing with it for a hour or so, I found one broken wire, which I resoldered on, and found that the ground connection has a 2 point connection, 1 for a wirre the other touches the clock housing which acts as a ground for the whole car, whch might not be making a connection so I soldered a wire from that to the housing, and now the clock works fine

Wow that's a nice acquisition, definitely keep us updated on your progress and take us on the journey with you.

Drove to Canyon Lake TX to pick up my first love from a buddy. My first vehicle was a 56 F100, which I foolishly sold circa 1980.

Yes, it is. Very cool vehicle. I have a 5.0L in my garage just waiting for a vintage truck. :)

I had to pull the transmission to address an oil leak today. I figured a short video with open headers before I bolted the exhaust back on was in order. I didn't rev it more than about 3,500 rpm.

Sounds like some great music to my ears. Better than the stuff I have to put up with at work that makes my ears bleed.

I went with 18x8.5 front with 245/45, and 18x10 rear with 275x40. The diameter is the same on both so the sidewall heights are equal. It is dead flat. I think it comes down to whether you like historic/stock or updated/modern. Both are fine, just pick what you like. Lots of the TV customizations go with bigger wheels and really thin tires, I always thought the thinner stuff like 35xs didn't look right on classic muscle. Plus they ride like skateboard wheels, hard as a rock. The 18's clear the upper and lower ball joint in the front so you can run a little more back spacing. I rolled the fenders all the way around to avoid shredding tires. They don't rub on most stuff in and out of driveways, etc. Post a pic of what you end up with ! Oh yeah its dropped 2" in back and 1.5 in front. I don't like "air" between the fender and tires. ;-)

There is a company in Pennsylvania that makes a reproduction in dash tach that is pretty similar to the originals. It does not require any modifications to the original non tach wiring harness. The alternator warning light does function a little bit differently than an original though. It comes on for overvoltage and undervoltage. My paperwork said about 11.8v for undervoltage and about 14.2v for overvoltage. On my car it is actually about 11.5v for undervoltage and about 14.5v for overvoltage. I plug the tach directly into the tach output on my MSD 6AL box. On my dash cluster I chose to move the fuel gauge to the right side and I kept the alternator gauge on the left side, since I have temp and oil pressure gauges on the console. It could be setup just like an original tach car if a person wanted it that way though.

Just adding my two cents to this thread... I found that modern tire design and brands, such Nitto do not make many, if any performance tires below 17 inch diameter. On my 70 Mach 1 M-code, I went with 17 US Mags Bandit rims and Nitto NT555 G2s. I have factory height big block constant 640 lbs rated coil springs up front with Global West suspension and a 1" Shelby drop (upper Arm Control). Global West Plus 3 upper arms have 3 degrees of positive caster built into them. This will eliminate the need to pull the lower arm so far forward in order to get the optimal alignment. In the rear I have stock height 138 lbs rated/Competition Handling Eaton rear springs and an aftermarket 1" rear sway bar. The US Mags Bandit front 17x 8 with a 1 Offset and 4.54 backspace with Nitto NT555 G2 245 x 45 tires. The rear US Mags Bandit front 17x 9 with a 8 Offset and 5.31 backspace with a big Nitto NT555 G2 275 x 50 tires. I prefer the look of a larger width and height rear tire. I did have to roll my rear fender lips. I also lightly rolled the front fender lips too, but I don't think I needed to.

My father-in-law was a building contractor, and built every house on his street. He became friends with one of the neighbors, and whenever something went wrong at his house (even 40 years later) he always jokingly claimed that he still had a warranty from the builder. I think you should evoke such a warranty from Mustang Steve :)

People in hell want ice water.

So we haven’t been standing still, we just haven’t started on it. Still finishing dads Dart. I am collecting parts where I can. Mainly when I see a good deal on original parts. I found a rear valence that needs some work but is in good shape. I found a grille support bracket as well. Finally, my Dynacorn floor came in! Got a killer deal on eBay, and it shipped direct from Dynacorn.

Are they worth parting out?